New system plans for Christmas

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xX Mavr1ck Xx

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:party33:Going to upgrade to a new system after Christmas! Here is what I am planning on buying for the upgrade.

3 Kicker CompVR 12" 4-ohm DVC, will equal to 1200 watt RMS

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KICK...70413032613QQptZCarQ5fSubwoofersQ5fEnclosures


1 Kenwood Excelon X1200M, 1200 Watt at 2-ohms x 1

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KENWOOD-EXC...ewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item45ef335ed6

**Never had Kenwood anything, but this looks like a good amp for what I need. Anybody got a problem with Kenwood?? Let me know please.

I plan to build my own box, it will probably be ported if its not too hard to do. I've already got 4 gauge amp wires ready from my previous setup, and I'll probably do the big 3 upgrade with the new system.

The subs and amp will equal up to roughly $430.00, I'll need some new speaker wires, and for the big 3, I'm not sure how much 0 gauge wire is going to cost me or how much I'll need. Hoping to spend about $500.00-550.00 total cost.

What do you guys think?
 

drowndindreams

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if your amp is pushing 1200 at 1 channel, and is a one channel amp, then thats a no go. you need a 3 channel amp to push 3 subs, or 1 amp for each sub 1 channel means that there is only one pair of + and - to run to the sub
 
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xX Mavr1ck Xx

xX Mavr1ck Xx

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Yeah I believe it is. So do you think itll work good? I think the big 3 will help with the added power, do you think that everything will be good running it off my battery alone? Should I get a cap too?
 

drowndindreams

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if youre going to run anything above 1000 watts rms than a high output alternator is recommended. adding another battery is also an option. either use 4 gauge wiring or smaller (the smaller the numbers go the thicker the wire). big three would highly help.
and a capacitor is a must. they usually are used with every 1000 watts, 1000 watts = 1 farad cap, 2000 watts = 2 farad cap, etc.
 

TnTahoe

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the setup will work, but i wouldnt waste my time with caps, you will be fine with just the amp and the subs,
 

blueflamed03

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the setup will work, but i wouldnt waste my time with caps, you will be fine with just the amp and the subs,
agree. The 2.67 ohm load will be fine and wire up like so.

3DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg
 
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xX Mavr1ck Xx

xX Mavr1ck Xx

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Cool. thanks for the feedback guys. I'll probably be doing the big 3 this weekend if i have time. I'll probably pick up some 0 gauge wires at a local audio shop, how many feet do you guys think ill need,bout 10 ft.?
 

drowndindreams

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more than that, if your battery is on the right side of the hood near the coolant tank, id say 12 feet, if its on the left, less than that. and another 2 or 3 feet for a ground
 

blueflamed03

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20', then can use some for Big 3, and have some to spair. Most amp kits come with 15 to 20'.
 
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xX Mavr1ck Xx

xX Mavr1ck Xx

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I've been running numbers on the box design Im trying to do, and still having trouble: The specs for one sub is 2.25 ft cubed so the total will be 6.75 ft cubed. So I was thinking of a box that will be "about" H=15, W=48, L= 21. Just something i punched in, that total is 7.08 ft cubed. That is for a sealed box, but I'd to port this box. I just dont know how to do a port(s) for 3 subs. Should I seperate the subs into chambers and do an individual port for each chamber? Or Just do one long port for all 3? Any help with this would be great! thanks for reading.

EDIT: The specs for the subs are for a ported, not sealed.
 

blueflamed03

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do all three in seperate chambers, then that will may the box smaller, but aim for about 2.0 per chamber then port.
 
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xX Mavr1ck Xx

xX Mavr1ck Xx

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sounds like a plan, ill get some measurments when i get off work tonight, cant wait to start working on this! I bought a 4x8 piece of MDF and it cost 27.00! I that was a little much but i dont really know. thanks for the advice blueflamed
 
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xX Mavr1ck Xx

xX Mavr1ck Xx

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BIG 3 Question

Okay, so I'm doing the big 3 this weekend and I want to clear up a few things real quick. Here is a pic to make this a little easier
Blue: from alt
Yellow: to fuse box
Red: from + battery
Do I need to replace all these wires? That will be alt to positive, I know where the negative ground is at. And where is the chasis to engine wire at? If anyone could help me out thanks!
15ib4o3.jpg
 
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drowndindreams

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you dont have to replace them, i just added onto it with 4gauge wiring.

chassis to engine block , which is the last one you listed, you should follow your existing positive wiring, one will lead somewhere under the alternator. wherever that leads, thats where you should run a wire to the chassis.
 
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xX Mavr1ck Xx

xX Mavr1ck Xx

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Cool cool. Thanks a bunch drowndindreams, youve been a lot of help. Would had this done tonight, but had to help my friend build his sub box.
 

drowndindreams

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oh, and make sure you wear gloves, because it took me 4 days to get the grease off my hands lol.

no problem
 

AtomicHoe094

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for the +from the battery to the alternator, youll need a inline fuse. the factory comes with a fusible link, so youll have to put one in also with the new wire
 

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