New shocks

[itsbo1313]

So apparently I've been driving around blissfully ignorant. After reading several posts about the air ride compressor self test after start up, I realized I've never heard it come on. My XL rides level and not harsh at all but when I looked at the rear shocks the bladder's are blown out. So the compressor should be on trying to air up the shocks. I pop the hood and find the J-case fuse 58 is missing. So the car lot I bought it from back in June either knew about the shocks and pulled the fuse or didn't do a very good inspection when they bought it.

 

[itsbo1313]

Anyone here replace the Autoride system with a regular passive shock conversion kit by Arnott or others?

 

[itsbo1313]

Disregard my question. I found the answer in the obvious place. (sticky)

 

[itsbo1313]

So I was quoted $2300 plus tax for 4 Monroe Reflex shocks/struts installed at a local mechanic. Is just me or is this ridiculously high?

 

[RST Dana]

So I was quoted $2300 plus tax for 4 Monroe Reflex shocks/struts installed at a local mechanic. Is just me or is this ridiculously high?

Tire Discounters quoted me $350 for 1 rear auto/air shock replacement. I’d say less than $1600 including an alignment if you asked them. (If they are near you)

 

[PG01]

So I was quoted $2300 plus tax for 4 Monroe Reflex shocks/struts installed at a local mechanic. Is just me or is this ridiculously high?

Ridiculously high

 

[adventurenali92]

That’s high. You can get replacement premium air ride shocks from arnott industries shipped to you for I think $650ish... and installation is fairly easy. My shocks were installed in less than two hours. You can probably get new air shocks and installation for a grand or a bit less. That guy quoted you way high of a price.....

 

[itsbo1313]

That’s high. You can get replacement premium air ride shocks from arnott industries shipped to you for I think $650ish... and installation is fairly easy. My shocks were installed in less than two hours. You can probably get new air shocks and installation for a grand or a bit less. That guy quoted you way high of a price.....

That's around what I thought it would be. I used to do my own work, but I hurt my back years ago and I'm always down for a couple days after do any labor.

 

[adventurenali92]

That's around what I thought it would be. I used to do my own work, but I hurt my back years ago and I'm always down for a couple days after do any labor.

i probably could have tackled my rear shocks. But I just didn’t have the time. So I had my buddy that’s roms over at a jeep shop handle it with the lift. Lol. Either way the rears shouldn’t be 2300 to do. Even if you stick with air rides like I did.

 

[TahoeLTZ2007]

I just replaced my arnott shocks with Gm shocks, on my 2013 Tahoe Ltz I bought used last summer,it required a scanner to reset the compressor thru the computer.
The GM shocks were least expensive thru Rock Auto.Approx $525 US
I would check your compressor first to see if it still functions or it’ll be another $200 US or so to buy that part.
Regarding replacing the shocks with passive ones,it may be cheaper but you may continue to get lights on the dash and you lose the air ride.
I replaced the shocks myself and I am on the look out for a new compressor,as it will go sometime.The system is working fine now.

 

[Costal_Cat]

I got the passive Arnott's via Rock Auto for $125 each on a sale in Nov. Added a Dorman Compressor and did it in my driveway in about 45 mins. They also came with a resistor so the dashboard light did not kick on.

2 Shocks = $250 before rebates
1 Compressor = $160

Only pain in the rear is the passenger side top bolt you have to navigate the two AC lines and the ABS connection but other than that I used a creeper and did not even jack up the truck..... I tow a lot and have been really happy with this setup, especially at this price point.

 

[adventurenali92]

I got the passive Arnott's via Rock Auto for $125 each on a sale in Nov. Added a Dorman Compressor and did it in my driveway in about 45 mins. They also came with a resistor so the dashboard light did not kick on.

2 Shocks = $250 before rebates
1 Compressor = $160

Only pain in the rear is the passenger side top bolt you have to navigate the two AC lines and the ABS connection but other than that I used a creeper and did not even jack up the truck..... I tow a lot and have been really happy with this setup, especially at this price point.

I tow a ton. So I considered doing the passive non air shocks for the lower price point. But I wanted the auto level function for towing. So that’s why I kept air ride. The arnott replacement air shocks are quite good. I’ve been thoroughly happy with them.

 

[TahoeLTZ2007]

I got the passive Arnott's via Rock Auto for $125 each on a sale in Nov. Added a Dorman Compressor and did it in my driveway in about 45 mins. They also came with a resistor so the dashboard light did not kick on.

2 Shocks = $250 before rebates
1 Compressor = $160

Only pain in the rear is the passenger side top bolt you have to navigate the two AC lines and the ABS connection but other than that I used a creeper and did not even jack up the truck..... I tow a lot and have been really happy with this setup, especially at this price point.

Just wondering,maybe I missed something,
the passive shocks are not air shocks,why did you need a new compressor?

 

[Costal_Cat]

Just wondering,maybe I missed something,
the passive shocks are not air shocks,why did you need a new compressor?

It can be confusing. So much like @adventurenali92 I wanted the passive vs electronic shock but wanted to still use the auto leveling. Given that Arnott's has a passive shock with the airbags so you basically get the best of both worlds. The system consists of two components or sub systems....

1. Electrically dampened shock. This has nothing to do with leveling, it is a shock that uses electrical signals to get stiffer vs a normal passive shock. This is true for the front struts and the rear shocks.

2. Automatic Level control: This uses the sensors to determine if the rear should some up or down. Based on that the compressor is fired up until the sensor is back at an appropriate angel or a valve is opened to release air. The airbags just so happen to be built into the shocks.

So when you make the decision to replace the OEM system you should first determine if you want to maintain the automatic level control. If so you need shocks with the air bladder no matter if they are electronic or passive dampening.

If you go passive you want resistors for the shock sensors so that you do not get a warning on your dash no matter if you keep the ALC or not...

Hope that helps I had to get my head wrapped around it all when I was swapping out...

 

[adventurenali92]

It can be confusing. So much like @adventurenali92 I wanted the passive vs electronic shock but wanted to still use the auto leveling. Given that Arnott's has a passive shock with the airbags so you basically get the best of both worlds. The system consists of two components or sub systems....

1. Electrically dampened shock. This has nothing to do with leveling, it is a shock that uses electrical signals to get stiffer vs a normal passive shock. This is true for the front struts and the rear shocks.

2. Automatic Level control: This uses the sensors to determine if the rear should some up or down. Based on that the compressor is fired up until the sensor is back at an appropriate angel or a valve is opened to release air. The airbags just so happen to be built into the shocks.

So when you make the decision to replace the OEM system you should first determine if you want to maintain the automatic level control. If so you need shocks with the air bladder no matter if they are electronic or passive dampening.

If you go passive you want resistors for the shock sensors so that you do not get a warning on your dash no matter if you keep the ALC or not...

Hope that helps I had to get my head wrapped around it all when I was swapping out...

Great explanation! I forgot about the passive versus dampened shocks.

 

[itsbo1313]

I'm debating the Arnott passive or Bilstein 5100. I rarely tow, and when I do it's a U-haul trailer or a pontoon boat so I don't think I'll need to retain the auto leveling.

 

[Costal_Cat]

I'm debating the Arnott passive or Bilstein 5100. I rarely tow, and when I do it's a U-haul trailer or a pontoon boat so I don't think I'll need to retain the auto leveling.

Depends, if this is a costing exercise then Bilstein and some resistors to eliminate the dash warning are a great option. I will note that you stated the ride is not harsh but you have no airbags so the electronic shocks seem to be working for dampening right now. The Bilstein might prove to be a little firmer than what you have with stock. Remember the Denali was built for comfort not towing per say so the system is designed more for comfort than say a 2500

Hope that helps

 

[adventurenali92]

I'm debating the Arnott passive or Bilstein 5100. I rarely tow, and when I do it's a U-haul trailer or a pontoon boat so I don't think I'll need to retain the auto leveling.

How heavy of a pontoon?

 

[itsbo1313]

How heavy of a pontoon?

2500lbs

 

[adventurenali92]

2500lbs

Ah ok that’s not terribly heavy. I’d still want the auto level function for towing even with that weight. But that’s just my two cents...... lol