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Peacock

Peacock

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Thanks, I try and keep my mind busy
Not sure if off topic photos are allowed but here's a quick run down on the engines in those pictured

T-bucket , old school 355 solid flat tappet, double hump heads, this went 7.30's in a 66 nova, t-bucket weighs 1840 lbs which is about 1,000 less than the nova

20171106_221340.jpg


41 Chevy p/u, big M based 540 that made just shy of 800 hp, currently getting a bigger blower, bigger carbs and bigger fuel system

20191211_215826.jpg


51 Henry J, AFR head 489 stroker, full roller that made 600 hp and 600 tq with a pro comp intake and a worn out 850 single carb, should do a little better with the tunnel ram

20191212_162328.jpg


What the engine will look like for the blue 57 Chevy p/u, still need a set of heads and a cam for the 11-1 355 short block I have for it

20190703_175056.jpg


I also collect 60's vintage speed parts and wheels, one of the reasons I chose the Tahoe because it can haul stuff in the back...lol

Shovelhead 80 ci that goes potato potato potato

FB_IMG_1583678128419.jpg
 

GreyStone

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Thanks, I try and keep my mind busy
Not sure if off topic photos are allowed but here's a quick run down on the engines in those pictured

T-bucket , old school 355 solid flat tappet, double hump heads, this went 7.30's in a 66 nova, t-bucket weighs 1840 lbs which is about 1,000 less than the nova

View attachment 242844

41 Chevy p/u, big M based 540 that made just shy of 800 hp, currently getting a bigger blower, bigger carbs and bigger fuel system

View attachment 242845

51 Henry J, AFR head 489 stroker, full roller that made 600 hp and 600 tq with a pro comp intake and a worn out 850 single carb, should do a little better with the tunnel ram

View attachment 242846
Definitely time for an intervention ~ your'e hoarding horsepower. Beautiful machines Bro!
What the engine will look like for the blue 57 Chevy p/u, still need a set of heads and a cam for the 11-1 355 short block I have for it

View attachment 242847

I also collect 60's vintage speed parts and wheels, one of the reasons I chose the Tahoe because it can haul stuff in the back...lol

Shovelhead 80 ci that goes potato potato potato

View attachment 242849
 
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Peacock

Peacock

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Thank you, as you can tell I'm an old school kind of guy so I'll have plenty of questions about working on this Tahoe, I'm also a little leery about screwing something up electronically since the whole thing is linked together. I also have to pull the reigns back on modifications (like on the blue 57) since eventually the Tahoe will be my daily driver, winters and all.
Living in the rust belt where vehicles just rust away, I don't want to do to many mods because in the end the vehicle will be worth chump change, like my 02 Z71 Silverado with only 160 k on the clock but heavily rusted underneath.
But anyways please bare with me on some of my questions, I like to research stuff before jumping in on the projects because I physically don't last to long anymore (especially in precarious positions) so having a set plan is paramount to helping avoid to much torture.
 

PPV12HOE

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I see my name but I've missed the question... what's going on...? I see the horn wiring post so is this the issue...?
 
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Peacock

Peacock

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I see my name but I've missed the question... what's going on...? I see the horn wiring post so is this the issue...?

Yes, what needs removed to access those wires that need put back together ?
I seen in another thread the guy said he got to them without removing the console, asked the same question there but no reply.

Screenshot_20200320-004727_Drive.jpg
Screenshot_20200320-004647_Drive.jpg
 

PPV12HOE

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Okay... so you have an inoperable horn I'm taking it... since you have a jump seat and not a full console it will be easier for you... you will need to remove the lower heater box cover from under the passenger side dash... from there you should be able to access the wiring shown in the picture... it's under the dash directly below the radio and heater controls... look for a light tan wire that has been cut in two... just connect them back together and you should have working horn...
 
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Peacock

Peacock

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Okay... so you have an inoperable horn I'm taking it... since you have a jump seat and not a full console it will be easier for you... you will need to remove the lower heater box cover from under the passenger side dash... from there you should be able to access the wiring shown in the picture... it's under the dash directly below the radio and heater controls... look for a light tan wire that has been cut in two... just connect them back together and you should have working horn...

Thanks, the horn works when pushing on the steering wheel button, it just doesn't honk when you lock the doors.
 
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Peacock

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What he said, cause we mentioned that on the first page.

Yeah no kidding, I made myself clear and people suggest the Brown wire, so maybe they are suggesting that as a fix to my problem, how am I supposed to know it's not a way around the horn not working when you lock it ???
 

Kee Fuller

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Yeah no kidding, I made myself clear and people suggest the Brown wire, so maybe they are suggesting that as a fix to my problem, how am I supposed to know it's not a way around the horn not working when you lock it ???

Whoopsie. Lol
 

kbuskill

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kbuskill

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Now you tell me..lol
I didn't know there was a mod, so I didn't, but it goes vvooouuuummmm now, just like when I flipped the lid on my old cutlass as a kid...ha ha

View attachment 243334 View attachment 243335 View attachment 243336

Is the front of that air box open???

I was referring to modding the fender and air box to make the hole bigger...

rps20200326_172437_124.jpg

rps20200326_172717_068.jpg

rps20200326_172619_491.jpg


If the front of that new air box is open then I guess this wouldn't matter... seems like it would draw hot under hood air in though.

If it is open and you have a way to look at live data, like the Torque Pro app or something, you should check your intake air temperature data and see what it reads.
 
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