My Boom Box

[massivespl]

I know Sundown makes excellent gear, both amps and speakers.
But, checking here:
http://sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/sa-series

I saw that the sensitivity is only 81.0 and 81.6 for the dual 2 and dual 4 10's respectively.
Taking that into consideration, and again, all other things being equal and seeing a gain of 3db for each doubling of power, I'd have to run 8X the power to the SA10's as to the Dayton's. If I can run 600rms all day long to the Dayton's, I'd have to step up to Sundown Team Series to be able to run 4800rms. And since they don't offer a 10", I'd have to "step down" to the Nightshades. And even then, they wouldn't fit in my enclosure, I've got about 6 1/2" of depth to work with.
I'm trying to be as efficient as possible, both with sound output, and with my XL's electrical. I swapped in a 253 amp alt from a 3500 series pickup (direct swap, only $118 on eBay), and have wire to do a dual run of 1/0, the Big 4, and dual batteries under the hood. I certainly won't have to add another battery in the rear, nor would I have space. My amp(s) are/will be mounted under the second row seats, as is a DC-to-AC converter for my battery chargers (drills and other cordless tools).

Your thinking to much about it. Yes sensitivity matters but u do relize that rating is how loud they get off 1watt or power... it will change when u apply different amount of power. The sensitivity matter more for loud speakers/vocal speakers because they are light weight compared to a subwoofers moving mass ... more then likely the SA will be louder... it’s been proven time and time again to be louder then most woofers.

 

[xFuZzYx]

 

[Gossamer]

I have it toward the driver's side, with the woofer pointed toward the side panel. Here's a picture:

View attachment 196883

Ok, thanks

 

[willinnashville]

Looks a whole lot better once it's carpeted.

Roughly 2.7-2.8 cu ft, 4" diameter port, tuned to roughly 28-30hz. I'd rather give up some maximum output for increased power handling and low-frequency extension, which results from tuning below the vehicle's resonant frequency. I don't have a meter, but my seat-of-my-pants Spidey Sense feels like 33-35hz is the sweet spot - I found a test tone generator online, and swept from 50hz down to 20, and back up a few times. Below about 27hz, things start to get sloppy, but seeing as how I'm not into rebassed rap music, works just fine for me.

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Aluminum flashing tape, covering the holes that I sprayed expanding foam into to deaden the quarter panel.

View attachment 196964

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I'm obviously no guru here, but how is that box attached to the truck? Everyone I've ever seen that fit sub(s) in that area built a fiberglass backing or some kind of routed out multi-stacked MDF box. Yours looks like it's just caulked to the side of the cab. What am I missing?

 

[BigDaddy13440]

I'm obviously no guru here, but how is that box attached to the truck? Everyone I've ever seen that fit sub(s) in that area built a fiberglass backing or some kind of routed out multi-stacked MDF box. Yours looks like it's just caulked to the side of the cab. What am I missing?

Deadened between the inner and outer quarter panels with spray foam, then I scuffed up the metal with sandpaper to give it some tooth. I then used PowerGrab adhesive to hold the wood pieces in place against the metal, and used a few screws to secure while the PG dried. The PG adhesive is actually stronger than the wood itself when joining two pieces, by far stronger than wood glue (maybe with the exception of Gorilla glue). After letting the adhesive dry, I then ran a substantial bead of silicone around the joints.

This is the fifth vehicle I've built into the quarter panels, and after sufficiently deadening between the skins, it's as solid as a double baffle of 3/4" MDF. Both this one and the previous, I added quite a bit of the Pella foil tape you see, it has a butyl layer under the foil. Very sticky, it works quite well for deadening small areas. A 4" wide x 50' roll is about $18, I just happen to have partial rolls left over from my job (install doors and patio doors for Lowe's).

As I knew I wasn't going to go with a huge amount of power (as I said, 1200-1500 watts is about all I ever need), I knew I wasn't going to have to worry about too much internal pressure. From the enclosure, the port fires right over my left shoulder (when I'm driving), and only rarely do I ever feel any air movement. I wasn't looking to do hair tricks, don't give a damn about the buzzing, tin can farting noise most guys with 15's, 18's, multiple 10's or 12's like. Not my cup of tea, I want authorative, smack-me-in-the-back-of-my-head accurate bass. And I've accomplished that with every build.

 

[willinnashville]

So that's adhesive, not caulk? I had no idea wood and metal could be joined in a way that would work well for a sub box. Like I said, every box build in that panel that I've seen has had either fiberglass or a weird shaped wood box. If your way works, seems like you'd have a lot more space for a decent sized sub magnet if you chose to hide it behind the panel.

 

[OB 04Denali]

Niceeee. If i was to go with a 2 10's setup and only have 500Watts RMS total from the PDX-V9 sub channel to play with, What 10 inch subs would you guys recommend me looking into? Maybe 2 JL W1's?

 

[Gossamer]

I have it toward the driver's side, with the woofer pointed toward the side panel. Here's a picture:

View attachment 196883

I tried it facing the passenger side and then facing the drivers side. Found out it actually provides a lot more cleaner bass if it faces the back. I don't have a 3rd row seat so that is abit of a different situation for me.

 

[willinnashville]

I've never tried that, but I use my 3rd row a lot

 

[bigmike41]

Just started but on hold my transmission went out

 

[Hippie459MN]

I'm thinking I may have pushed the subs too hard, these are only rated at 275 rms and 550 peak. IF my amp pushes its rated power, I've been running 500rms to each. Looking for some high-efficiency 10's that can handle 600-1000rms, without breaking the bank. The only subs I've found so far are some Dayton Audio ** 10's, 600rms/1200peak with a sensitivity of 90.5:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-**-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

Assuming all other things being equal, 500rms into these will be comparable to 1000rms into an 87.5 db sensitivity sub, and 2000rms into a 84.5 db sensitivity. It takes double the power to gain 3db, so I'm reverse-engineering that theory.

Rockville is making some pretty sweet budget subwoofers. Check these out... EXO did a little unboxing and testing on his YouTube of them and I was impressed.

https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/w10k9d4/

I want to get a pair of the Rockville 12's and give them a go in my Tahoe. I had 2 12" PSI Platform 4's in my Suburban with a DC 5k powering them. For a big suburban and just the 2 12's on about 2500watts rms at 2 ohms, it did darn good. Of course I sold them when to pay for other stupid toys. I miss my loud system.

First I need to decide how much I really need that 3rd seat in my Tahoe. LoL

 

[massivespl]

Rockville is making some pretty sweet budget subwoofers. Check these out... EXO did a little unboxing and testing on his YouTube of them and I was impressed.

https://www.rockvilleaudio.com/w10k9d4/

I want to get a pair of the Rockville 12's and give them a go in my Tahoe. I had 2 12" PSI Platform 4's in my Suburban with a DC 5k powering them. For a big suburban and just the 2 12's on about 2500watts rms at 2 ohms, it did darn good. Of course I sold them when to pay for other stupid toys. I miss my loud system.

First I need to decide how much I really need that 3rd seat in my Tahoe. LoL

A lot of the Rockville k6 and k9 subwoofer have voicecoil failure. Rockville is trying to fix the problem. I’d stay clear until they fix that... if u want a good woofer get a sundown they have lcs, E,SA,U,xv2,zv5,nsv4,team. Sd shallow... models and prices for everyone and they are top of their game in the audio world

 

[Hippie459MN]

I would agree, Sundown makes some really nice stuff. It will be a bit before I start getting in to a subwoofer build for my Tahoe but doesnt hurt to shop now. lol

 

[BigDaddy13440]

So that's adhesive, not caulk? I had no idea wood and metal could be joined in a way that would work well for a sub box. Like I said, every box build in that panel that I've seen has had either fiberglass or a weird shaped wood box. If your way works, seems like you'd have a lot more space for a decent sized sub magnet if you chose to hide it behind the panel.

I would have been able to go with subs with a deeper mounting depth/ larger magnet, but I needed to recess the subs in and have the grille protect them. Debris from removing/indtalling doors and tools in the back would destroy cones real quick without the grille.

 

[05Single]

My sub box

Kicker L7 12"
Kicker 1200.1 mono

 

[kwOH]

My sub box View attachment 198550

Kicker L7 12"
Kicker 1200.1 mono

Home Depot edition.......

 

[05Single]

Home Depot edition.......

You know it lol