Looking for a 2000-2014/New member looking for a Tahoe/Yukon and some good advice for towing!

[TheRook]

Hey everyone,
I'm currently deep into the research of buying a used Tahoe or Yukon. I have some things to consider that people here could hopefully help with. I am looking to buy a vehicle to tow a travel trailer with (21 foot, less than 3500 lbs-Jayco 184 BS). I have a $15,000 max budget. The main consideration is I do not know which is better to do, buy an older 2004-2006 with the 4 speed and around 100k miles? Or go top of budget to get a 2009-11 ish with slightly higher mileage. I am not sure of the trailering packages on them. Do all LTZ's have the trailering package? Do I even need it with a trailer that small? Some people say that 04-07 are great, others say I need to go 09+. I plan on definitely taking some longer trips with it, but still only plan on using it about 10k miles a year. Not sure if I should be nervous about getting an older model compared to a "newer" one. Any help/guidance is much appreciated! I live in southeast PA, and have a wife and 2 girls (7,6), and we plan on doing some adventuring....I used to live out west for 10 years so excited to get back there!

 

[Bill 1960]

The 4 speed lasted through the 2008 models like mine. The 4L60E is not a bad transmission, but they are prone to failures with high mileage and from towing. Considering what you’ll do, I’d budget for a replacement transmission of it’s got a 4 speed, unless the maintenance records confirm there’s a quality newer one already done.

I’d choose a 9-14 myself. The 6 speed tows much better, with a deeper first gear to launch with and closer splits between gears.

 

[swathdiver]

Hey everyone,
I'm currently deep into the research of buying a used Tahoe or Yukon. I have some things to consider that people here could hopefully help with. I am looking to buy a vehicle to tow a travel trailer with (21 foot, less than 3500 lbs-Jayco 184 BS). I have a $15,000 max budget. The main consideration is I do not know which is better to do, buy an older 2004-2006 with the 4 speed and around 100k miles? Or go top of budget to get a 2009-11 ish with slightly higher mileage. I am not sure of the trailering packages on them. Do all LTZ's have the trailering package? Do I even need it with a trailer that small? Some people say that 04-07 are great, others say I need to go 09+. I plan on definitely taking some longer trips with it, but still only plan on using it about 10k miles a year. Not sure if I should be nervous about getting an older model compared to a "newer" one. Any help/guidance is much appreciated! I live in southeast PA, and have a wife and 2 girls (7,6), and we plan on doing some adventuring....I used to live out west for 10 years so excited to get back there!

The trailer is small enough but a Suburban will tow it better. A Tahoe is more expensive in the used market than a Yukon or even a Suburban, generally speaking.

Does that budget include repairs and maintenance? I hope not for your sake.

The 2012-2014 have improved towing performance like Hill Start Assist, Trailer Sway Control and different Grade Braking modes.

Try to get one with the JL1, Integrated Trailer Brake Controller as well (2009+).

2010+ have a USB port that connects your phone to the radio.

The 2012+ navigation system is better than the older one but there are no updates for either after 2016 at present.

They all don't have the same tow rating! A GMT900 (2007-2014) with 3.08 gears (6-speed) is rated for about 5000 pounds. If it gets 3.42 gears but without the larger fans, radiator, external transmission oil cooler and engine oil cooler, it will be about 6,000 pounds. With the HD Cooling/Towing, it will be between 7900-8500 depending on the model. The GMT800s (2000-2006) are similarly rated but with different gearing options, 3.23 to 4.10.

Then again, you might consider an earlier GMC Yukon Denali, they all came with 6-speeds and the 6.2 motor. In 2007, they were all AWD and after that 2WD could be had if desired. The GMT800 Denalis had a 6.0 motor with the 4-speed.

 

[intheburbs]

Regarding the 4L60 - my 2001 logged about 25k miles of heavy towing (6k-7k lbs), and it still has the original transmission at 280k miles.

Personally, I'd go older with lower miles. Once half-ton trucks get above 125k or so, the major components start to wear out - hubs/bearings, suspension, brakes, etc.

A buddy's son is going through this - his budget was $10k, so he bought the nicest Suburban he could find. A 2010 Z71 with 156k miles. He already has another $4k into it, and has low oil pressure in the engine.

Myself, I'd go with an older GMT800 with lower miles. Yes, the six speed is nicer to have, but it's a worthwhile tradeoff for less of a money pit. If you're willing to travel, find a southern 2004-2006 with little or no rust. And those years don't have the dreaded AFM.

One last thing - the longer wheelbase trucks, the Yukon XL/Suburban tow a hell of lot better than the shorties. Physics and all that.

 

[TheRook]

The trailer is small enough but a Suburban will tow it better. A Tahoe is more expensive in the used market than a Yukon or even a Suburban, generally speaking.

They all don't have the same tow rating! A GMT900 (2007-2014) with 3.08 gears (6-speed) is rated for about 5000 pounds. If it gets 3.42 gears but without the larger fans, radiator, external transmission oil cooler and engine oil cooler, it will be about 6,000 pounds. With the HD Cooling/Towing, it will be between 7900-8500 depending on the model. The GMT800s (2000-2006) are similarly rated but with different gearing options, 3.23 to 4.10.

Then again, you might consider an earlier GMC Yukon Denali, they all came with 6-speeds and the 6.2 motor. In 2007, they were all AWD and after that 2WD could be had if desired. The GMT800 Denalis had a 6.0 motor with the 4-speed.

Thanks for the great information. I currently have found a 2014 SLT 4x2 that says it has the "tow package" which it would seem would fit my needs easily. I got the build sheet with the RPO codes and 4 of them are
JL4 CONTROL ACTIVE BRAKE ACTIVE BRAKE CONTROL(JL4)
VR4 TRAILER HITCH(WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING PLATFORM) EQLZR HITCH(VR4)
8KZ82 TRAILERING PACKAGE(SPECIAL)(REESE TYPE HITCH) PROVISION FOR HD TRAILER EQUIP(Z82)
GU4 AXLE,REAR,3.08 RATIO 3.08R(GU4)
This has left me confused? I thought the ratio would be different but maybe I'm mistaken. Is this the model that can tow up to 7-8K??

 

[wsteele]

Thanks for the great information. I currently have found a 2014 SLT 4x2 that says it has the "tow package" which it would seem would fit my needs easily. I got the build sheet with the RPO codes and 4 of them are
JL4 CONTROL ACTIVE BRAKE ACTIVE BRAKE CONTROL(JL4)
VR4 TRAILER HITCH(WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING PLATFORM) EQLZR HITCH(VR4)
8KZ82 TRAILERING PACKAGE(SPECIAL)(REESE TYPE HITCH) PROVISION FOR HD TRAILER EQUIP(Z82)
GU4 AXLE,REAR,3.08 RATIO 3.08R(GU4)
This has left me confused? I thought the ratio would be different but maybe I'm mistaken. Is this the model that can tow up to 7-8K??

I believe the trailer capacity on that equipment is 5500 lb. I think you need to have 3.42 or lower RA and the K5L HD cooling package to get up to 8K lb.

 

[swathdiver]

Thanks for the great information. I currently have found a 2014 SLT 4x2 that says it has the "tow package" which it would seem would fit my needs easily. I got the build sheet with the RPO codes and 4 of them are
JL4 CONTROL ACTIVE BRAKE ACTIVE BRAKE CONTROL(JL4)
VR4 TRAILER HITCH(WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING PLATFORM) EQLZR HITCH(VR4)
8KZ82 TRAILERING PACKAGE(SPECIAL)(REESE TYPE HITCH) PROVISION FOR HD TRAILER EQUIP(Z82)
GU4 AXLE,REAR,3.08 RATIO 3.08R(GU4)
This has left me confused? I thought the ratio would be different but maybe I'm mistaken. Is this the model that can tow up to 7-8K??

Like Bill wrote, it is not. You are looking for KC4, KNP, K5L, GU6, most of these codes are for the 900s only.

You would quickly hit the maximums with that trailer and your family in the tow vehicle in that truck.

 

[Geotrash]

Thanks for the great information. I currently have found a 2014 SLT 4x2 that says it has the "tow package" which it would seem would fit my needs easily. I got the build sheet with the RPO codes and 4 of them are
JL4 CONTROL ACTIVE BRAKE ACTIVE BRAKE CONTROL(JL4)
VR4 TRAILER HITCH(WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING PLATFORM) EQLZR HITCH(VR4)
8KZ82 TRAILERING PACKAGE(SPECIAL)(REESE TYPE HITCH) PROVISION FOR HD TRAILER EQUIP(Z82)
GU4 AXLE,REAR,3.08 RATIO 3.08R(GU4)
This has left me confused? I thought the ratio would be different but maybe I'm mistaken. Is this the model that can tow up to 7-8K??

The 3.08 rear end isn't a good choice for towing. You want the 3.42.

I tow a 6500 lb camper with our 2012 XL Denali but used to tow one about the size of the one you're going to be pulling. A few thoughts:

• The longer wheelbase of the XL/Suburban is a better choice for towing stability.
• AWD/4WD has come in handy a couple of times towing. But we do a lot of boondocking so...
• The factory brake controller is excellent, but installing an aftermarket Tekonsha P3 on a truck that doesn't have it takes literally 30 minutes. All of the wiring is already there.
• More important is to have the aux transmission cooler (sits in front of the A/C condenser for the factory units), but again, those are easy to install if you're a little handy.
• If you can afford one with the 6.0 or 6.2, I would. Much easier to keep up with traffic - especially on the hills, and it will likely have the upgraded cooling components already. Especially if you're planning to tow in the west.
• The 6L80E is a towing beast. The added 2 gears are key. But there's a weak link in the torque converter. The AFM system wears out the lockup clutch over time, and when it fails it sends shrapnel through the transmission and takes it out. I installed a HD torque converter and deleted the AFM in mine to avoid the problem. So, if I were in your shoes with your budget, I'd be looking for a low mileage '07-'09 XL Denali (has the 6.2L and no AFM).
• I also used to have an '02 Suburban, with the 4L60. Never had any problems towing with it, but the previous owner had a rebuilt transmission installed by the dealer about 10K before I bought it.
• If you can find one from California or Arizona, as I did for both of my Denali's, you won't have to deal with SE PA rust issues. It's worth the flight, and chances are a member here can check one out for you. Even Virginia or NC trucks will be in way better shape than anything in PA. I grew up in Pittsburgh - trust me on this

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

You've already received some great advice, regarding which trucks have which options, and which are better for towing in your specific case. Since I don't really tow, I cannot give you any more advice in that area.

I will advise you on this, however. Since you plan on doing adventuring with your family, I'd recommend getting the longer truck -> Suburban or Yukon XL. I had a Yukon initially, and when both kids were in the truck, there was not a lot of extra cargo space available behind the second row seats. So, for any day adventures (no trailer), you will be somewhat limited in what you can cram into the back of the truck. When my Yukon died, I purchased a Yukon XL, and I removed the 3rd row seats, as they were rarely, if ever, needed. The increase in the amount of usable space behind the 2nd row seats with the Yukon XL over the Yukon is remarkable. Even when not adventuring, the extra cargo space for home projects (studs, plywood, etc.) is extremely convenient.

 

[wsteele]

Thanks for the great information. I currently have found a 2014 SLT 4x2 that says it has the "tow package" which it would seem would fit my needs easily. I got the build sheet with the RPO codes and 4 of them are
JL4 CONTROL ACTIVE BRAKE ACTIVE BRAKE CONTROL(JL4)
VR4 TRAILER HITCH(WEIGHT DISTRIBUTING PLATFORM) EQLZR HITCH(VR4)
8KZ82 TRAILERING PACKAGE(SPECIAL)(REESE TYPE HITCH) PROVISION FOR HD TRAILER EQUIP(Z82)
GU4 AXLE,REAR,3.08 RATIO 3.08R(GU4)
This has left me confused? I thought the ratio would be different but maybe I'm mistaken. Is this the model that can tow up to 7-8K??

Dave's advice (@Geotrash) is excellent. I don't feel as strongly as some do about the WB advantage when towing of the Suburban/XL but most of my "heavier" towing with my Yukon was a dual axle enclosed trailer that was pretty dense (not subject as much to wind and big rig sway, I didn't even use an LE hitch assembly and it towed great). I too use the Tekonsha trailer brake controller, going strong after 14 years, about 30 minutes to install.

If I were in your place, I think I would zero in exactly on the model and years Dave outlined (I personally would not be afraid to add in the non-XL Denali as well, but that would be the model years for sure). Ironically, I see more lower mileage examples in the used Denali market than equivalent Yukon or Tahoes. I think they are favorites of Soccer Mom's.

Good Luck.