Leaky axle seals? and everything else..

[mikez71]

I seem to have a drips of oil coming from axle ends. Shows up at the bottom of the disc brake dust shield..
Enough that the inside of my rear wheels have a greasy grime layer. (220k miles)

How difficult to change? Worth doing an AXN axle swap now? (I saw some lower mileage unit forsale..)

Combined with my rear main leak, and slow disappearing coolant..

I'm wondering why chevy's are so leaky?!

 

[j91z28d1]

not horrible but some time on your back. gotta drop the diff cover and pull the center pin in the diff to get the C clips out. and then remove all the brakes and pull the axle out.

hopefully the axle where the bearing rides is in good shape. if so just tap in new axle seal. if the axle is groved up, you have the g80 diff and the repair is bearings don't fit, they didn't on mine. then you would need axles too. that axle itself is the inner race the rollers of the wheel bearing ride one.


most likely fine thou, and just 2 new seals. mine started leaking at 150k ish. new gm seals. and been fine since.

 

[mikez71]

Awesome, thanks for that!

I am replacing calipers anyway, so it sounds easier and cheaper than swapping axles.

(want to change my gearing, but not sure its worth it for me at this time. )

 

[j91z28d1]

do you have the g80 diff?

 

[j91z28d1]

these 2 videos should help

 

[rdezs]

I did our 2014 Escalade at 170,000 miles. Picked up a set of new axles on RockAuto at a reasonable price, so planned on just swapping them anyway. When I inspected the old axles, they were fine but I did have excess end play. All it really needed were the c-clips replaced. They had lost about 1/4 of their original thickness. New one on the left, old one on the right. The c-clips are not expensive.

 

[mikez71]

do you have the g80 diff?

Yes, G80.

Was thinking the AXN axle be a nice ratio upgrade (3.08 -> 3.42)
And have a stronger diff and a lower miles unit..

Would need to commit to a replacement front diff as well..

That is interesting about the C-clips!
I'll remember to get new ones if I keep the original axle. Thanks!

 

[rdezs]

Yes, G80.

Was thinking the AXN axle be a nice ratio upgrade (3.08 -> 3.42)
And have a stronger diff and a lower miles unit..

Would need to commit to a replacement front diff as well..

That is interesting about the C-clips!
I'll remember to get new ones if I keep the original axle. Thanks!

From the measurements I took, I would estimate those c-clips should probably be replaced around 120,000 to 130,000 miles. This was on a 14-bolt 9.5 in 3.42 rear axle. It had the differential fluid replaced roughly every 30,000 miles with a full synthetic 75w90. 75% of its miles were my wife's commute on a 55 mph State highway, 25 miles each way. And she babies are Escalade.

If picking up a used assembly for my salvage yard, at a minimum I would replace those.

The proper amount of axle and play is pretty much imperceptible with your eyes, a magnetic mounted micrometer is needed. We're talking less than .01 of an inch.

The axle bearings themselves looked perfect.... I went ahead and replaced both the axles and the bearings because I had them on hand, and my wife wants to keep her Escalade for another 150,000 miles.

The surface of the old axle where the bearing rides was obviously visible, but you could not feel anything with your fingernail. Micrometer said it was okay, so I'm sure they would have cleaned up quite well. However, where the seal itself was riding was questionable. The axle was not leaking, I went in for high mileage preventative maintenance.

This is the end of the axle where it's riding against the locking pin that you remove before pulling the c clips. Compared to the new axle with a micrometer, it was within .001" of being new.

Both the axle and play and radial play.... Any vertical movement in the bearing... Came out exactly within specs, literally .001" from being too tight. I'm fully confident she'll get close to 200,000 miles out of them.

 

[rdezs]

..... And the removable pin in the differential measured out exactly as it should. Showed zero wear.

 

[mikez71]

Awesome! Thanks for the detailed info!

The axle I was looking at is supposedly a 2014 w/ 62k miles..
Honestly probably won't open it up at that mileage if it looks good.
I have a habit of making more work for myself the more I try to do. (I screw something up)

Definately want the lower mileage, stronger diff, and better ratio..
Seems like a no brainer..

I'm hoping I can drive around with the different ratio front diff installed temporarily.
I'll unplug the switch or front diff so I can't go into 4WD accidentally?

Might have to pick up this axle before it sells to someone else..

 

[rdezs]

Yeah that's pretty low mileage. Fluid change is about all you need. Better grab it quick before it's gone

 

[rdezs]

Note: They are claiming extremely low mileage. Prior to finalizing the deal, I would grab a hold of an axle flange and try to slide it in and out. Unless you're able to feel .007", you won't be able to feel any obvious movement. If it checks out grab it. If you can see and feel any in and out movement, they're not being honest about the mileage.

 

[mikez71]

Brakes still on the axle, so I don't know if they will let me do that..
They are listed on ebay and LKQ. I just sent them a message seeing if they will allow for local pickup.
Hopefully they're listing accurate mileage as a recycler business..

Looks like I will need a new cover seal as they probably cracked it open to drain the fluid. (I see a missing bolt in the picture)

But I will definately try and look for signs while there.
One of the reasons I want to go pick up instead of delivery in case something is bashed or bent etc.
The part is warrantied, so even if I find something wrong when I get back, I should be able to return/exchange it I suppose..

Here's hoping they allow for pickup.

They have the matching front axle, but it's listed at $940.. I thought front diff/axles would be cheaper, maybe not..

 

[rdezs]

Pretty much all recyclers remove the cover and drain the fluid. That's expected.

The price on the front diff is a little steep, even with the low mileage. It's not much more for a rebuilt one....

 

[mikez71]

Yep, I'm not jumping on that front diff.. maybe they'll make me a deal. They told me to call their office weekdays.. Entering rabbit hole soon I think..

 

[Burban22]

I usually don’t use stop leak but this stuff works. Fixed the leaky passenger side front differential seal on 3 of my vehicles. 1986 K5, 1997 K1500, 2003 burb. All had a passenger side front differential seal leak.

Do not over use! If you put in too much it will over swell the seals and cause a bigger leak. I used 1oz of stop leak per quart of differential fluid. After 200-400 miles the leak stopped and has been stopped for over 10 years.

Haven’t tried it in a rear differential seal leak. Used it on an 90’s Audi gearbox and it destroyed all the seals so apparently it wasn’t compatible with whatever rubber they used.

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

atpautomotive.com

 

[mikez71]

Too bad about the Audi seals..
I wonder if that would help with my rear main leak..

I am going to call in the morning about that AXN axle though.
Mine's not leaking badly at all, but I figure it's a good time to start my ratio change.

 

[Burban22]

Too bad about the Audi seals..
I wonder if that would help with my rear main leak..

I am going to call in the morning about that AXN axle though.
Mine's not leaking badly at all, but I figure it's a good time to start my ratio change.

I probably added too much to the Audi gearbox when it didn’t slow the leak then the leak got worse when the seals over swelled.

I added it to the crankcase of my 97 vortec 350 for 1 oil change. Didn’t slow any of the leaks. Didn’t make any of them worse. Ended up replacing oil pan gasket which was most of the leak.

Common leak on LS is the rear oil pan rails. Pull the inspection cover on the trans to see if it’s your rear main or more commonly the rear of the oil pan.
Detailed pic here

https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/oil-pan-rear-cover-leak.844553/

 

[mikez71]

Yea, I haven't definitively nailed down my engine leak, but rear main seems most likely..
Going to have to wait on that until I after I get this installed...

Looks good externally. I was mistaken, rear cover was not removed, and they paint pen'd a couple bolts, so im guessing still has factory fill. I will probaby put new fluid in, turn rotors and throw new pads on and send it. Looks like these little washers over a couple wheel studs.. Im thinking it maybe original brakes, and 62k miles maybe real. Ended up at $700 after tax and credit card fee. So far the only issue I could find was the ebrake boot is a torn up on one side..

 

[West 1]

If you want the other gear ratio that is the best plan but know in advance your front diff will need to be replaced to match. The computer may need to be tweaked for your speedometer to read correctly.

The pictures of the axle shaft shown above might have polished and been fine. You can take some wet and dry sandpaper, maybe start with 320 and clean up that area where the seal rides. Switch to a 400 and sand a little more. Done. The seals have enough flexibility to seal on the slightly smaller shaft where you sanded. I would not go crazy but the seal would be fine even if you took .05 off to clean up the area. If you leave the groove odds are the seal will leak.

A warning for you, the pin in the diff must be removed to get your axles out but if you start turning the yoke, ring gear or axles you might allow the spider gears to move and your pin won't go back in place. I did this two days ago. You can move them back into place and be fine but it does waste time. Good Luck with it.