Kbuskill's 2008 Burb LTZ "MOD" Thread

[Joseph Garcia]

SUPER TRIP!

 

[Tonyrodz]

Love this movie. My Christmas tradition.

 

[kbuskill]

Added cornering lights to the Burb to assist with dark roads/driveways at night.

I really like them.

I will get some more photos in the daylight.

Also added these...

 

[89Suburban]

Added cornering lights to the Burb to assist with dark roads/driveways at night.

I really like them.

I will get some more photos in the daylight.

Also added these...
View attachment 472885
View attachment 472886View attachment 472887

Reminds me of the old late 70’s thru early 80’s Cadillac cornering lights. My mom had a ‘78 Saville that had those.

Also had the fiber optic tell tale fender light markers that showed turn, park and high beams. And also the tell tale light pod above the rear glass that you could see in your rear view mirror showing the brake, turn and parking light status.


I miss those.

 

[Fosscore]

Added cornering lights to the Burb to assist with dark roads/driveways at night.

I really like them.

I will get some more photos in the daylight.

Also added these...
View attachment 472885
View attachment 472886View attachment 472887

More cool mods. Nice.

 

[Scrappycrow]

Added cornering lights to the Burb to assist with dark roads/driveways at night.

I dig it! I've been considering the same, because the level of tint on my front windows means that you can't see sh** at night when turning and I often lower the window to see what I'm turning into.

Did you use a "delay off" relay in the circuit?

 

[kbuskill]

I dig it! I've been considering the same, because the level of tint on my front windows means that you can't see sh** at night when turning and I often lower the window to see what I'm turning into.

Did you use a "delay off" relay in the circuit?

Kinda, I made my own with a Relay+Capacitor+Diode. It takes approximately 2 seconds for the Cap to drain and turn off the cornering light after shutting off the turn signal.

The power from the signal charges the cap and keeps the light on continously while the turn signal is off, and by the time the cap would be drained the turn signal has turned on and recharged the cap by then.

 

[Scrappycrow]

Kinda, I made my own with a Relay+Capacitor+Diode.

That's the sort of thing I'm prone to doing! Hella's version runs $65-$80, depending on the supplier. The adjustability is nice, but not $50 more nice.

 

[kbuskill]

Latest Blackstone report.

I believe they misspoke when they said "copper" and actually meant lead.

The lead was high for a while due to what I believe was lead leaching out of the Chinese aftermarket oil cooler I installed. I think it has finally cleared up after all this time.

Either way all seems well for nearly 350k miles.

@donjetman is always curious about these reports.

 

[kbuskill]

Forgot to post this when we did it a while back.

I replaced the rear sections of rubber hose going to the rear heater core as well as the plastic quick connect fittings at rear heater core.

I don't trust the plastic quick connects so I found some metal ones to replace them. I used a Fordham rotary tool to cut the crimps off of the factory lines where the metal meets the rubber and then removed the old rubber lines and replaced them with new hoses with a 90° bend at one end.

No picks of the work but it's just boring maintenance stuff.

Here are the parts I used to upgrade everything...

Gates 28471 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose 5/8"

Amazon.com: Gates 28471 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose : Automotive

Buy Gates 28471 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose: Heater - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

Dorman 800-409HP

https://a.co/d/ffCui4C

The factory plastic quick connects have a 90° bend in them and are crimped onto the rubber hose. I couldn't find a metal quick connect with a 90° bend. So my solution was to get the straight quick connects and get a hose with the 90° bend. This ended up working out great.

I will say that the 5/8" hose is slightly "loose" when slipped over the factory metal lines after cutting the crimps and removing the original hoses, but I just slipped the hose up over the "barb" that was left after cutting the crimp off and put a hose clamp on both sides of the "barb" and I haven't had any issues or leaks in the past month or so of running it like this. The cooling system is a relatively low pressure system at 15-20 psi so I don't forsee any issues and I don't have to worry about the plastic quick connects breaking and dumping all the coolant like the ones under the hood did.

I will also note that I don't think the plastic quick connects in the rear probably see as much of the extreme conditions that the ones under the hood do, since they aren't right over the top of the exhaust manifold like under the hood. The old plastic ones I removed from the rear didn't seem nearly as brittle as the ones up front, even with 350k miles on them.

 

[the_tool_man]

I will say that the 5/8" hose is slightly "loose" when slipped over the factory metal lines after cutting the crimps and removing the original hoses, but I just slipped the hose up over the "barb" that was left after cutting the crimp off and put a hose clamp on both sides of the "barb" and I haven't had any issues or leaks in the past month or so of running it like this. The cooling system is a relatively low pressure system at 15-20 psi so I don't forsee any issues and I don't have to worry about the plastic quick connects breaking and dumping all the coolant like the ones under the hood did.

Could you use a brake line flaring tool to add a real flare to the metal line? I've done this on older cars where formed rubber hoses aren't available. I make metal bends, flare them, and splice them into straight sections of hose. It's typically low pressure, too, but gasoline, which you REALLY don't want leaking.

 

[89Suburban]

Forgot to post this when we did it a while back.

I replaced the rear sections of rubber hose going to the rear heater core as well as the plastic quick connect fittings at rear heater core.

I don't trust the plastic quick connects so I found some metal ones to replace them. I used a Fordham rotary tool to cut the crimps off of the factory lines where the metal meets the rubber and then removed the old rubber lines and replaced them with new hoses with a 90° bend at one end.

No picks of the work but it's just boring maintenance stuff.

Here are the parts I used to upgrade everything...


View attachment 474105
Gates 28471 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose 5/8"

Amazon.com: Gates 28471 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose : Automotive

Buy Gates 28471 90 Degree Molded Heater Hose: Heater - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

View attachment 474104
Dorman 800-409HP

https://a.co/d/ffCui4C

The factory plastic quick connects have a 90° bend in them and are crimped onto the rubber hose. I couldn't find a metal quick connect with a 90° bend. So my solution was to get the straight quick connects and get a hose with the 90° bend. This ended up working out great.

I will say that the 5/8" hose is slightly "loose" when slipped over the factory metal lines after cutting the crimps and removing the original hoses, but I just slipped the hose up over the "barb" that was left after cutting the crimp off and put a hose clamp on both sides of the "barb" and I haven't had any issues or leaks in the past month or so of running it like this. The cooling system is a relatively low pressure system at 15-20 psi so I don't forsee any issues and I don't have to worry about the plastic quick connects breaking and dumping all the coolant like the ones under the hood did.

I will also note that I don't think the plastic quick connects in the rear probably see as much of the extreme conditions that the ones under the hood do, since they aren't right over the top of the exhaust manifold like under the hood. The old plastic ones I removed from the rear didn't seem nearly as brittle as the ones up front, even with 350k miles on them.

What kind of clamps did you use?

 

[kbuskill]

Could you use a brake line flaring tool to add a real flare to the metal line? I've done this on older cars where formed rubber hoses aren't available. I make metal bends, flare them, and splice them into straight sections of hose. It's typically low pressure, too, but gasoline, which you REALLY don't want leaking.

You probably could but there isn't a ton of room to work as the metal lines run on top of the frame rail and only stick out a little bit from the frame.

When you cut the crimps off there is a metal ridge that acts kind of like a barb so I put a hose clamp on both sides of the ridge and have zero issues.

 

[kbuskill]

What kind of clamps did you use?

Just some good stainless worm gear clamps.

 

[kbuskill]

Albuquerque, NM tonight...

On our Great American Western Roadtrip

 

[Fosscore]

Yessir. Such great scenery and stops out west!

 

[kbuskill]

I forgot to mention.

I put the Burb on the Cat scales at the truck stop yesterday to see what the ol' girl weighs fully laden with a full tank, family, luggage, a hitch carrier full of tools and two 5 gallon cans of gasoline.

7480lbs total
3440 front axle
4040 rear axle

In case anyone cares... I'm looking at you James, @swathdiver ... lol

 

[swathdiver]

I forgot to mention.

I put the Burb on the Cat scales at the truck stop yesterday to see what the ol' girl weighs fully laden with a full tank, family, luggage, a hitch carrier full of tools and two 5 gallon cans of gasoline.

7480lbs total
3440 front axle
4040 rear axle

In case anyone cares... I'm looking at you James, @swathdiver ... lol

You beat me by 160 pounds! LOL

Safe travels my friend!

 

[kbuskill]

You beat me by 160 pounds! LOL

Safe travels my friend!

Thanks brother, so far it has been awesome.

 

[kbuskill]

Couple pics from today...

Painted Desert

Teepees Painted Desert/Petrified Forest

Had to stop in Winslow, AZ. to see the flatbed Ford from the Eagles song "Take it easy".

Day 3 of our Great American Western Roadtrip