OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Thanks... you can trust me, she is filthy... it has rained so much lately that it would have been pointless to wash.
Kbuskill's 2008 Burb LTZ "MOD" Thread
- Thread starter kbuskill
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Thanks... you can trust me, she is filthy... it has rained so much lately that it would have been pointless to wash.
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
Esky racks look good man! I’m definitely a fan of the long bodies with esky racks! Just looks so clean! I like it in the white diamon too! Looks good!
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Thanks...
Both of your trucks are beautiful and immaculately clean... like @Rocket Man 's
Plus you both have 2 trucks...that's hard to compete with... lol
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Thanks brother...
I was looking at it today after the install and I guess my eye was just drawn to the rack because it's the newest thing and I was thinking... man that sucker looks long... lol
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
That’s exaclty what I thought when I put the esky racks on my XL! Lol.
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
So after waiting what felt lile forever the guy finally got the "new and improved" version of the sequential modules in and sent me a pair.
They are quite a bit smaller that the first set...
Which is great because they are easier to hide than the first ones.
Hopefully these hold up and I don't have any more problems out of them.
The first set were rated at .5A and these are rated at .75A or 1A depending on who you believe.
The guy told me in text that they are .75A but on his website they are listed as 1A... so who knows.
They are hooked up and installed and fully functional again so I am happy... just wanted to update the thread.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Similar to what you have?
https://www.amazon.com/Canbus-Switc...6-8-7910--4-2-145-104-1-0&tag=viglink20600-20
https://www.amazon.com/Canbus-Switc...6-8-7910--4-2-145-104-1-0&tag=viglink20600-20
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Similar yes...
Mine are JDM Astar and they are just bulbs... no canbus/resistor boxes.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/232927082777
I added my own resistors. Eventually I want to send in my BCM and have it reflashed to be compatible with LEDs.
gooffeyguy
Tom
Have you found if the additional steel scrubbing material helps collect more oil or not?
Also I have the same can, and do you think it matters if the extra stainless steel material is in the top or the bottom of the can?
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon XL Denali
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I added the scrubby to the can before I installed the can so I don't have anything to compare it to but it seems to do very well.
It needs to be in the bottom (inlet side, from the valve cover) of the can because you don't want oil condensing in the top (outlet side, to the intake) of the can. If the oil was captured/condensed in the top of the can you would have to remove and open up the can to drain it as opposed to opening the drain on the bottom of the can.
gooffeyguy
Tom
I've been debating with myself if it'd be better in the top or bottom.
In the bottom it would do like you said and keep the oil condensate in the bottom, but as it fills it will be sitting in the oil and not be doing anything except taking up volume in the bottom reservoir of the can.
In the top it has a greater chance of letting the oil condensate get sucked out through the hose. There isn't much space in the top part of the can, or between the two hose ports for that matter, but then the condensate is heavier and should flow down through the screen and into the bottom.
Who knows? Maybe I'll just leave it as is
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon XL Denali
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
In the bottom it would do like you said and keep the oil condensate in the bottom, but as it fills it will be sitting in the oil and not be doing anything except taking up volume in the bottom reservoir of the can.
In the top it has a greater chance of letting the oil condensate get sucked out through the hose. There isn't much space in the top part of the can, or between the two hose ports for that matter, but then the condensate is heavier and should flow down through the screen and into the bottom.
Who knows? Maybe I'll just leave it as is
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon XL Denali
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ken takes his catch can very seriously.....
iamdub
Full Access Member
I consistently drained 2.x ounces at every oil change. I use 3 ounce plastic cups and the oil was right at a molded-in line on the cup every time. Since adding a stainless scrubber pad, the cup is about an 1/8" from the rim. I've had 3 oil changes with the scrub pad and those results have been consistent.
And the term for how the catch can works is "coalesce", not "condense". Different actions.
Oh, I have mine at the top. The way I see it, as long as the outlet path is after the reservoir and the reservoir is after any and all means of coalescing, that's about as good as you can have it.
And the term for how the catch can works is "coalesce", not "condense". Different actions.
Oh, I have mine at the top. The way I see it, as long as the outlet path is after the reservoir and the reservoir is after any and all means of coalescing, that's about as good as you can have it.
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
iamdub
Full Access Member
I can see where you have me on a technicality. I read "condense" in the context of the change from gas to liquid.
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Me too.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Isn't it grand how we just HAVE to analyze simple concepts and complicate everything?! lol
Surely, everything we touch on our rigs can be improved in SOME way with stuff we can get online or have kicking around our garages.
Where my fellow shadetree engineers at up in here?!
Surely, everything we touch on our rigs can be improved in SOME way with stuff we can get online or have kicking around our garages.
Where my fellow shadetree engineers at up in here?!
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
I'm with you.... I try to improve everything I touch if possible.
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Not what I did but rather what my Brother and 12 year old son did to the Burb today.
1.Replaced drivers side engine mount with the H3 mount.
2.Oil/filters changed, catch can drained.
3.Reinstalled my HIDs in the low beams because one of my LED bulbs crapped out.
4.Drained and refilled the rear end with M1 75w90 synthetic.
5.Fixed a leak in one of my air bladders in the rear springs.
6.Replaced 2 bolts and nuts that evidently came out of the lower control arm relocation bracket of the drop kit. Not sure how they came out. Locktite was used when they were installed. Regardless they have been replaced and locktite was used again.
7. All fittings were greased to include upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, DJM sway bar end links, Spohn panhard bar end links.
8.Brake fluid completely flushed and refilled with synthetic DOT4 fluid.
I think that was it. I did a lot of supervising... lol
I would say this one was shot. It was only about2 years old.
And the results of my catch cans capture.
I also had them grab me a sample of the used oil to send to Blackstone for analysis.
1.Replaced drivers side engine mount with the H3 mount.
2.Oil/filters changed, catch can drained.
3.Reinstalled my HIDs in the low beams because one of my LED bulbs crapped out.
4.Drained and refilled the rear end with M1 75w90 synthetic.
5.Fixed a leak in one of my air bladders in the rear springs.
6.Replaced 2 bolts and nuts that evidently came out of the lower control arm relocation bracket of the drop kit. Not sure how they came out. Locktite was used when they were installed. Regardless they have been replaced and locktite was used again.
7. All fittings were greased to include upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, DJM sway bar end links, Spohn panhard bar end links.
8.Brake fluid completely flushed and refilled with synthetic DOT4 fluid.
I think that was it. I did a lot of supervising... lol
I would say this one was shot. It was only about2 years old.
And the results of my catch cans capture.
I also had them grab me a sample of the used oil to send to Blackstone for analysis.
OP
OP
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
As some of you may know I had Morimoto HID low beam bulbs in the Burb and was quite content.
Then @08HoeCD Got busted by "the man" (Virginia DOT inspector) and had to remove all of his aftermarket LED bulbs and replace them with stock lighting in order to pass inspection.
So since he was selling his Supernova V3 for the low beams, and I had been looking to try a pair, I scooped them up.
Fast forward to the other day and the drivers side low beam decided it was tired and didn't want to work any more so it quit.
I looked on headlight revolutions website and saw that they came with a 2 year warranty and I knew that DJ had purchased them in Sept. of 2017. So I called HR and told them what happened and they said no problem they would replace it.
I then told them that the Supernova V4 might not fit because they have a cooling fan instead of the flexible heat sink like the V3s did. So I asked if I could get the replacement in a 9005 (high beam) instead of the H11 (low beam) again... no problem.
Long story short he told me they probably wouldn't arrive until around new years because they were out of stock. I said no problem and went ahead and swapped my Morimotos back into the low beams because we are going out of town for Christmas.
Today I got a package. It was the new Supernova V4 9005s. So I went ahead and checked to see if they fit without modifying the core support and they do... so win win.
https://headlightrevolution.com/supernova-v-3-led-headlights-9005-9145-bulbs/
Here is a pic to show the clearance of the back of the fan to the core support with the headlight installed.
And a pic of the old V3 to show the heat sink.
I guess I will have to wait until dark to see how I like them. I am happy to.get rid of the old dingy yellow looking high beams though.
Then @08HoeCD Got busted by "the man" (Virginia DOT inspector) and had to remove all of his aftermarket LED bulbs and replace them with stock lighting in order to pass inspection.
So since he was selling his Supernova V3 for the low beams, and I had been looking to try a pair, I scooped them up.
Fast forward to the other day and the drivers side low beam decided it was tired and didn't want to work any more so it quit.
I looked on headlight revolutions website and saw that they came with a 2 year warranty and I knew that DJ had purchased them in Sept. of 2017. So I called HR and told them what happened and they said no problem they would replace it.
I then told them that the Supernova V4 might not fit because they have a cooling fan instead of the flexible heat sink like the V3s did. So I asked if I could get the replacement in a 9005 (high beam) instead of the H11 (low beam) again... no problem.
Long story short he told me they probably wouldn't arrive until around new years because they were out of stock. I said no problem and went ahead and swapped my Morimotos back into the low beams because we are going out of town for Christmas.
Today I got a package. It was the new Supernova V4 9005s. So I went ahead and checked to see if they fit without modifying the core support and they do... so win win.
https://headlightrevolution.com/supernova-v-3-led-headlights-9005-9145-bulbs/
Here is a pic to show the clearance of the back of the fan to the core support with the headlight installed.
And a pic of the old V3 to show the heat sink.
I guess I will have to wait until dark to see how I like them. I am happy to.get rid of the old dingy yellow looking high beams though.
Similar threads
