Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

So, ls 7 lifters.
Looks like i got a good .095 - .099 preload with 7.4in push rods.
that's with a .030 headgasket (.040 quench)

I still need to have the heads surfaced, so they might take off another .003
the head gasket i'll end up running with is the .027 (mls)

Reading online, seems the target preload is .080 - .100...

So sounds like i'll be in the ok range, or does it sound like i need a slightly sorter pushrod?

 

[Just Fishing]

Aluminum radiator baffle thing, hopefully i don't hate it... lol

Not much left of the original, so i did my best to make a template from it.

I found I had some push button center lock retainers that fit the holes perfectly.
So at least it will be easy to remove if it's annoying.

I used a screwdriver handle to make the little checker board looking lines.
stiffened it up by quite a bit.

I'm assuming it will make a terrible noise on the freeway, so i plan on using some rubber weather stripping on the ends.

 

[Just Fishing]

and i have the block buttoned up and ready to install for the most part.
Only pending part is the flex plate bolts.
the stand does not give me enough room to tighten the bolts down, so it looks like i need to break out the engine hoist.

 

[Just Fishing]

The machine shop also did me a solid.
the little yellow marks, he did that on the crank, flex plate, and the harmonic balancer.

lined them all up, and it looks like my little timing color marks line up with TDC.
Not that i'll ever use them, but it's nice knowing they are now somewhat close to a reference point.

 

[Just Fishing]

Also last time i did the harmonic balancer, i used the old crank bolt to install.
serious pita.

This time around, i copied the idea from my SBC balancer removal/install tool kit.
A bearing makes all of the difference.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RTG6F97

So easy, so smooth!
Only complaint is that the little ball bearings were not captured.
(Or maybe they were captured but the little tin shield flexed out, who knows!)
I didn't notice that when putting the tool together, only when going to remove it from the crank.
Little steel balls falling and bouncing into all places!

I ended up pulling the balancer after realizing the machine shop marked it to line up with the same color mark on the crank and flywheel
Used grease on the installer tool bearings for the second time around (after finding all of the little ball bearings).

totally worth the $20 imo.
Just grease those babies, and plan on storing in a ziplock bag.



For the puller, I have been using this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AIRR4EY

I would buy it again for sure.
The first time around i managed to bend one of the little rods, but i haven't had issues since.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AIRR4EY

For this kind of stuff, i really like the hard case.
It's not something i would use often, and it's nice being able to stack it on a shelf vs storing in the toolbox.

Jaws are pretty nice too, they have just enough friction to hold itself in place on the balancer as I assemble everything.

 

[Just Fishing]

Spent some money yesterday and got some insulation to help the AC out.
used foam behind this and built it up to give me a nice flat surface.
Against the glass is a nice layer of tinfoil, then i went to town with the foam sheets until i had the thickness i wanted.

The board going right through the middle of the window is a left over of the framework i built to support a boat restore project, it joins to the top of the garage and a big beam.
it gave me some hard spots to mount rings, and some pulleys.
The final plan is to use it to help support some boards and metal that I'm going to install to add extra support and security to that window ac unit.


I also had an issue where the AC unit froze up on me once, i think i need to angle the unit in the back to aid with drainage.
so the piece of paper there was an easy way for me to see if it's still flowing air or not.

 

[Just Fishing]

Did some cleanup of the wires and repaired/replaced some of the plastic corrugated shielding in some spots.
re-wrapped the harness where i saw a need with some fresh super 88

Silver parts, got the idea from the oem starter connector.
it has some nice heat shielding on it, seemed it's probably because the harness is under the exhaust manifold, I found i still have some nice heat shielding tape left over.
so i decided to shield the wires that route up under the exhaust manifold.

The stuff i used,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J2H9R88

great stuff, sticks very well.
but they do have an optional spray sticky to help this stuff stick even better.
Mostly this tape is to be used to seal between larger sheets of heat shielding.
but i find it's great for smaller projects like shielding electrical.

If you want to go full bling bling, the gold version

Amazon.com: Design Engineering 010397 Reflect-A-GOLD High-Temperature Heat Reflective Adhesive Backed Roll, 2" x 30' Roll: Automotive

Buy Design Engineering 010397 Reflect-A-GOLD High-Temperature Heat Reflective Adhesive Backed Roll, 2" x 30' Roll: Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I hear the gold stuff is better, but it's also twice the price.



While i was in there, i decided to clean up a nice set of ground wires that bolt to the side of the block.
I tried flowing Rosin into the connector in order to clean up the wires, but i still couldn't get solder to stick.
so i went a little more aggressive.
used some AC grade stuff, "Harris Stay-Clean"
Just have to be careful to prevent it from running up the wire.
used some cleaner after flowing it into the connector with heat, then followed up with rosin.

I used this trick on my vette, but i had it flow right up the wire a few times.
the concern is that it would corrode the wire long term, but this stuff does clean up pretty easily.

 

[Just Fishing]

And for the harness,
there was a bit of plastic corrugated shielding that had rotted out, right where a wire mounting spot is.
the connector, i might have been able to disassemble non destructively, but i decided fk it.
shielded that ***** up, and stiffened up the broken spot vs risking a one time use connector.

 

[Just Fishing]

Damn ADD.

Started work on what I plan to do to the entire garage.

Main place i need it is against that wall, the back wall, and the ceiling.
I won't get too much further until i get the hoe out of there.

I like how much brighter the garage is already getting!

 

[Just Fishing]

And i completed the radiator baffles
I decided to rock some gorilla tape to give it some thickness and prevent the sheet aluminum from damaging anything, flopping around, or making noise like a kazoo driving down the freeway.

Doesn't show up well, but they are pretty black.
The other side is pretty seamless, i did my best to keep the ends of the tape on the inside of the engine bay.
thought is that they would be less likely to flake and come apart this way.

Incase anyone is looking, the little plastic holding clips appear to be 1/4in or 6.4mm per my little kit.
Kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IXXNP9S


I didn't get a good picture of it, but prior to blacking it they really stood out in the grille view.
I wasn't sure if i liked the look or not.
but now it blends right in.

 

[Just Fishing]

Also on the insultation on the wall...

so i have an addiction to random tools.
one day i walk into a pawn shop and start going through their air tools, one tool got my attention
A massive stapler!!
It has a little adjustable plate so it can crimp the ends off like an office stapler.

i was hoping it was one of those staplers that shippers use to staple boxes shut.

What i found was close, but not quite.
It's the stapler that shippers use to assemble shipping pallets, mostly to fasten a thick cardboard side to a wooden pallet.

it can also crimp the ends off, but it does have a limited range since you need to get the plate on the backside.

Playing around with it, I found i can staple two 3/4 boards together if i have long enough staples.
Turns out it's obsolete since the staple size is no longer used.

On eBay i bought a couple cases of obsolete staples for less than the copper is worth as scrap.

Paid something along the lines of $40 for it iirc.

These are the shorter staples i have, but i do have the long ones.

I used this stapler to attach the insultation to the wall.
If i manage to hit a stud, it will go into the wood.


I have also used this stapler to fix a rotted fence.
used the full crimper action to full on staple planks together...


I'm doing my best to avoid wires with this thing.
i had to go around a power outlet, so i totally did it with a single hand, and avoided the stud.

 

[Jimmyy]

Damn ADD.

Started work on what I plan to do to the entire garage.

View attachment 297282

Main place i need it is against that wall, the back wall, and the ceiling.
I won't get too much further until i get the hoe out of there.

I like how much brighter the garage is already getting!

I see a dance part in your future. A mirror ball some lasers and a sound system.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Those baffles look great, along with the wiring R&R

 

[Just Fishing]

And we dropped the engine in last night!

serious pita since i decided to install the chain down at the lowest head bolt point.
the little L shaped bracket really got in the way of the exhaust manifolds.

My helper was really good at just helping me remove the hood.
so he was my go-to guy.
Worth the wait for that guy.

While he was in the engine bay, he was kind enough to get the engine mount bolts started, along with the upper engine to trans bolts.

Afterwards we went out to dinner and i bought that guy a few rounds.



All bolts are just finger tight, or at a minimum started by a few threads.
This weekend I'll start tightening things down.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Have that ***** on the road soon. You're only a few hours away at that point..

EDIT: The forum now stars vulgarities...wtf

 

[Just Fishing]

Plan is to assemble the truck for the most part from here.
I do still need to finalize the heads, or I say fk it and spend 2500 bucks on a set of AFR heads that have the 72cc chamber.

 

[Just Fishing]

Got the engine fully bolted in.
Lower harness mostly routed, still some areas i don't like much but I'm getting it close.
Converter is torqued down, I might have used a little too much 243 Loctite... oozing out slightly.

Pretty hard to get a torque wrench in there, so i gave it some good turns with out + swivel.


I'm digging the silver block paint very much in the engine bay.

I sorta wanted to clean up the timing cover, but decided to save time + you can't really see it when the water pump and crap is installed.

About to install the starter, after i check some part numbers for a new transmission cooler to transmission case seal....

 

[Just Fishing]

Spend hours yesterday increasing the chamber size of my heads.
I switched from antifreeze to water wetter mixed with distilled water.
The results are much more consistent, and bubbles dissipate much quicker.

I ended up with a good 1 cc lower using water wetter than i was getting with antifreeze...

so i ended up going at it again.
this time I'm shooting for 71cc's per chamber.
I got one side in a good place last night, and the other head @ 70cc's

back to it again today after i change the wifes oil.

I'm hoping to have the heads pretty by the end of today, next week i want to drop the heads off at the machine shop.
hopefully I don't loose too much chamber size.

 

[Just Fishing]

So here i was, it was after midnight.
working on these heads all night.
Removing metal, cc'ing the heads.

Then it seemed like i was loosing fluid when cc'ing the heads.
I see this around the valves.

This looked much worse until i cleaned it better, but i swore it looked like i went through the heads!
I nearly ordered those $2500 heads right then and there, but slowed my ass down and took a pick.
then i remembered that this was the head that I hadn't fully finished, a little hump of aluminum still exists.

And this head doesn't have nearly as clear of a gasket line as the other head has.
making it harder to get a perfect line as I open up the chamber.
I suppose i need to grab one of my new head gaskets to scribe a nice little line.
my impossible to replace head gaskets...






Adventure!

 

[Just Fishing]

Well I'm accepting that i planed this build out poorly, and I should do it the proper way, by yanking the engine apart to swap out the correct pistons (and loosing $400 for the pistons that have been modified by the machine shop), and loosing the money spent on the balance to have it done again.
or by running a silly sloppy quench/thick head gasket...


My head modification turned out OK.
I ended up with a tiny bit of overhang of my selected 4.1" head gasket into the chamber.
Granted, the gasket would still be on the block, and not in the actual combustion chamber.
I could get a slightly larger dia head gasket to make me feel better, but there is not much available right now...



But overall I'm not happy with this much material removed without some sort of actual reference from another set of 799 heads that have been modified to this chamber size.
We are also wanting to take this thing on a long trip here very soon.

So chatting with my wife and my father, we all agreed that i should get this done, and to buy some really good cylinder heads to get around my f-up and another potential long machine shop wait.

Meaning this "Cheap" 6.0 build got into 6.2 territory price wise.
Granted i would have had to source some rec port heads for that 6.2...

Probably equal to me just buying that factory 6.0 long block that i considered @6k

My other option would be to buy rec port heads and the matching intake...

So I'm taking the fk it approach, and i will now need to get a pro to tune this thing in order to make some use of these heads.
I'm also getting an exhaust in the future, just not right away.
this expensive beast needs to get paid off first.


Heads ordered.
Selection: Airflow Research (AFR) 1630 - AFR 230cc LSX Mongoose Strip Cylinder Heads

Pardon Our Interruption

I actually loose low end with these vs the 799 heads, sucks balls since this was my dream...
I would also like a camshaft to make use of these, but I'm not wanting to take it apart right away.
So I'm thinking some higher ratio roller rockers for it.
Maybe 1.72 or 1.8 ratio...
I need to do some research.

Oh and i get to figure out my pushrod length all over again!

I have a good $150 going back to summit racing, luckily i can still return my valve springs!!!
(I love U summit racing, just stop using fedex pls)


I also feel like a freaking Picasso with a die grinder now.
I have so many hours, and my control got real good! lol


In the end, i take this as an Adventure.
I'm ok with the money spent, as long as it works out in the end.


And reminds me, I think i need to buy a fluid transfer pump that's rated for gasoline...


My heads where they ended up,