ISSUES FOUND AT LAST DEALER SERVICE

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ftwflh

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Ok my 2012 Tahoe has 134000 miles on it and gets serviced every 3000 miles at the dealership. Now the last service I had them check it over good because I found a couple oil drops in the snow and a green drop. This worried me since I have never had any sort of leak on this truck. Had them show me what the issues were they found.
The first thing they showed me was an oil leak on the oil cooler line block that bolts to the engine. Looks more like the gasket leaking than the lines. Then they showed me the AC line lead .May try some sealer on this since it isnt too bad and can be fixed right anytime. Then they showed me the rear main seal leak. I know this will have to be fix sooner or later. Hope it will hold until it is time from a transmission.
Going to take it in to my main mechanic and have them fix the oil cooler leak and get their take on the AC line. What kind of price should I be looking for on oil cooler fix alone and on fixing everything. I do pull a heavy toyhauler with this and tranny has got up to 220 deg a few times.
 

Tonyv__

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Big difference on oil cooler line labor between 2 and 4wd trucks
Valid.. oil cooler line on my 4wd Yukon was a MotherF. Oil cooler line on my 2wd express was about 30 mins.



No comment on pricing though. I’m a DIY guy so I am so far disconnected from mechanic pricing.
 

Fless

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Off on a tangent... just noticed you are in Crossville. My first MIL (Roark) lives there and I made many trips from the southern suburbs of the Windy City to see them, before moving to Denver ages ago. Lives in a mobile home off of Brown St, IIRC.

It seems like there were some Barbees that lived on Ingram St, too; I knew one of their granddaughters (again IIRC). Been many years.

Always went to Carmi for shopping nearby.
 

rdezs

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134,000....I doubt that the rear main is leaking. More likely oil travelled from oil cooler line block gasket. (Pretty common to have the oil travel back into the bellhousing) Gasket itself is inexpensive, I get them locally for around $5. Takes a 10 mm wrench, and very important.... A 1/4 drive inch pound torque wrench. Correct torque is crucial on the two bolts that secure the oil cooler line block to the pan. To loose and it leaks, too tight and you warp it and it leaks. Fix that first, and I would bet that the occasional droplet from the bellhousing disappears.

Regarding the AC line and green seepage.... That would be the refrigerant oil. Usually this is same behind the AC compressor pulley, seeping from the shaft as a sign the AC compressor is short for this world. Otherwise it's going to be at a fitting. You can get all the seals and o-rings for the fittings for under $20. It requires evacuating your system, replacing the seals at the fittings, it's a good time to change the air dryer (also about $20), then recharge the system.
 

B-train

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Mine is 4x4. Looks like a tight job but doable if up on a lift.
Drop the front diff down and either support it with a jack, or pop it out completely. It literally takes 5 minutes to do - was my go-to time saver at the GMC dealership back in the day.....
 

j91z28d1

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when you say put some sealer in the ac line? Hopefully you don't mean putting that can sealer they sell in auto parts store into the ac system. that stuff gunks up the whole system over time and ends up costing more than just fixing it then first time.
 
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ftwflh

ftwflh

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UPDATE: Took it to my mechanic and they ran dye in it and found the oil cooler line was leaking. Didnt show any leak at main seal . So I had the lines replaced and while it was there had the transmission fluid and filter changed. will keep an eye on main seal. They couldnt find the AC leak. told me to bring it in this spring and check that again.
 

mikez71

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Maybe oilpan, thats what I'm hoping mine is. Section of oilpan gasket right above the cooler boss that you can't see directly, so it's easy to think it's the cooler..
 

rdezs

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You mentioned they replaced the oil cooler lines. On the back side of the block that bolts to the oil pan, you'll see a fitting threaded in. This retains a thermostat. Every single one I have seen brand new, even OEM.... It arrives barely finger tight. There's literally just a plastic seal under it. Tends to be a rather frequent reason why shortly after oil cooler lines are replaced, they develop a leak there. It usually mimics the gasket itself leaking, and usually oil flows into the bell housing and resembles a rear main leak.

You can remove one small 10 mm bolt and remove the plastic dust shield, which gives a little room. If it's the style with a hex head, there's just enough room to tighten it up. If it has the Allen head, it's doable with a short Allen fitting, turning it with the box end wrench.

A shop familiar with LS engines is fully familiar with this issue and the need for it to be tightened before installing the oil cooler lines....
 

rdezs

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This is looking into the oil cooler block with the fitting removed, at the end of the thermostat

IMG_20250628_103839093.jpg


The proper Allen head

IMG_20250628_103643037.jpg


The thermostat itself
IMG_20250628_103327345.jpg


And the hard plastic seal around the fitting
IMG_20250628_103650923.jpg
 

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