Intake manifold repair help.

[unabashedpraise]

I was able to finally get the last bolt on the ac bracket. That thing was hiding under a bunch of grime. Which ever previous owner went mudding in this thing needs a swift kick in the rear...

Found the oil leak on the front! Looks like this has been repaired before. Felpro gaskets at that. However, the intake bolts were finger tight. My nine year old daughter could have loosened then with a nut driver.

Any advice on cleaning this thing? Wish I had a parts washer...


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[east302]

I've seen parts washers at Harbor Freight, not too expensive if you'd use it again.

My lower intake was cracked, so I bought a new one. At a minimum, I'd get the gasket surfaces cleaned up but wouldn't use a metal scraper.


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[bunchz71]

When I changed my Spider Injectors, I also decided to get a distributor. The distributor I bought had a hold down on it that is non-adjustable, which when you time the engine and put to cylinder 1, it will not let you get the bolt in the block to fasten the hold down unless your distributor is fully seated against intake and lined up. Here is the exact one I bought. When I put mine in after all the work I did, it started right up, and purrs like a kitten, like it was new. NO CODES AND ENGINE RUNS PERFECT. The old distributor hold down was open which made the timing adjustable. Not with this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CUWF8C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, if you need a new distributor anyways lol, this would save the hassle of trying to find a scanner which can monitor Cam Retard.

 

[Kenny D]

Not the safest way but if you can find an isolated spot, take a large roasting pan and place the intake in with some gasoline if you can not find "Varsol" locally. Petroleum Natptha is another name for Varsol. Soak the intake and take a plastic scraper and stiff bristle brush. I did mine and it came out just short of spotless. Remove any sensors or plastic parts beforehand of course.

 

[Kenny D]

I can see the dreaded leaks that are common with that engine. Both rear coolant ports were leaking, most likely because your intake bolts were finger tight. The poster that stated that the bolts were aluminum and to only tighten finger tight plus a 1/4 turn is mistaken. I did the torque sequence as spec'ed and then kept running the final torque sequence over and over until the bolts remained tight and I got at least another 100,000 with no issues of coolant leakage. Also be sure you put thread sealant or silicone on the threads of the intake bolts, and a little under the head wouldn't hurt either, as you can see some of your old ones were leaking also.

 

[east302]

Had you already cleaned the gasket off of the block when the photo was taken? It looks like they didn't extend it onto the head...

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[RicanGM]

Good thread...........


When I have a cruddy parts like that I spray them with Simple Green and take it to the local car wash.

 

[unabashedpraise]

Had you already cleaned the gasket off of the block when the photo was taken? It looks like they didn't extend it onto the head...

That was straight off the block. I hadn't touched the gasket. That's good info to have.


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[wolfeman2120]

I want to clarify that when I said to tighten the lower intake bolts I meant to use a ratchet till it feels tight and then add a 1/8 turn. If you are replacing the bolts as you should. the reason not to use the old bolts is because the bolts stretch when they are torqued.

I bought the felpro bolts which are not steel bolts. they will snap at the top if you tighten too much. just use common sense. I would also suggest to run a tap through the bolt holes beforehand so they don't get caught up when putting them in. this is the first mistake I did and resulted in my bolt snapping. then I had to drill the bolt out and that wasn't fun.

Also those don't look like felpro gaskets on there. should be all plastic with a blue rubber seal.


You got a lot of rust and grime on the mating surface. I took a soft (pink) ScotchBrite sponge and cutting oil and cleaned off all the rust and plastic from the head. its fine since the heads are cast iron. not sure I would do that on the intake. I bought a new intake cause I had pitting near the water holes.

EDIT:
now that I took a better look those are felpro, but they are different then the ones I bought. I read on a different forum that you want the black and blue ones. looking back at my order history from rockauto it was felpro MS901312.

 

[Kenny D]

My apologies @wolfeman2120, Thanks for clarifying your post. I didn't know if you were trolling or not.

 

[unabashedpraise]

I want to clarify that when I said to tighten the lower intake bolts I meant to use a ratchet till it feels tight and then add a 1/8 turn. If you are replacing the bolts as you should. the reason not to use the old bolts is because the bolts stretch when they are torqued.

I bought the felpro bolts which are not steel bolts. they will snap at the top if you tighten too much. just use common sense. I would also suggest to run a tap through the bolt holes beforehand so they don't get caught up when putting them in. this is the first mistake I did and resulted in my bolt snapping. then I had to drill the bolt out and that wasn't fun.

Also those don't look like felpro gaskets on there. should be all plastic with a blue rubber seal.


You got a lot of rust and grime on the mating surface. I took a soft (pink) ScotchBrite sponge and cutting oil and cleaned off all the rust and plastic from the head. its fine since the heads are cast iron. not sure I would do that on the intake. I bought a new intake cause I had pitting near the water holes.

EDIT:
now that I took a better look those are felpro, but they are different then the ones I bought. I read on a different forum that you want the black and blue ones. looking back at my order history from rockauto it was felpro MS901312.

Wouldn't steel bolts become corroded with the aluminum intake? I bought the FEL pro intake bolt set.

Thank you for reminding me to get a tap and die set. I'd already forgotten!


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[Kenny D]

By putting the silicone or thread sealant on threads of the bolt, it isolates the two different materials. When I did mine, I did not notice any corrosion on the bolts other than where the coolant make contact on the ends of the bolts that protrude into the water jackets.

 

[unabashedpraise]

Ok. Admittedly I'm an idiot. I was reading about some quick cleaning methods and put both the upper and lower intake in the dishwasher... With dishwashing soap. Now both parts are oxidized like crazy. What I need to know, ASAP, is if these parts will cleanup properly, or do I need to go to pick and pull for some used parts.

I've tried to do some scrubbing and while some was coming off, I think they would need to be blasted at a minimum. But I'm not sure about that throttle body...


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[east302]

I'd definitely replace the throttle body.

Tough call on the lower intake. If the gasket mating surfaces are good and nothing is flaking off on the inside passages then it may be ok. Make sure there's no soap or debris in it.

I'd probably play it safe and look for another one. Too much of a PITA to be replacing more than once. I bought a new one for around $400, but bet that a salvage one could be had for much less.


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[unabashedpraise]

This is after a super hot pressure washer for about 10 min. Do you guys think a bead or soda blast would work?


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[Kenny D]

Blasting may do the trick on the intake but not the throttle body. I'm not sure if you could soak that in the old school carb dip.

 

[willxfs]

I bought a lower intake manifold at my local pull a part for around 40 bucks. The throttle body is probably cheaper. That's where I would be headed right about now. It was a ***** to clean with strong degreaser and a plastic bristle brush. Came out just fine though.

 

[itsagaas]

The fuel pressure regulator is a known problem. Might want to replace it while you have it all apart.

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[unabashedpraise]

Find a local guy who will soda blast for $20.


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[unabashedpraise]

Got the parts back from the soda blaster guy. Looks pretty good for $50!
Engine is clean (ish) and ready to be be assembled.

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