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you mentioned that the drivers side visor lights are burned out? If so I would try pulling the visor and unclip the wire harness and see if that makes any difference. Then check the resistance on both sides. body & visor.Could the fact I'm using LED's in the headlights and fogs cause this issue?
you mentioned that the drivers side visor lights are burned out? If so I would try pulling the visor and unclip the wire harness and see if that makes any difference. Then check the resistance on both sides. body & visor.
as for the rear hatch struts if the rear struts alone (without power assist) do not "lift" the hatch open all of the way after the rear has been manually lifted about 1/4th of the way or less then they are not good
the visor could be the problem, it's 3 screws on the upper left corner pop the cover off, it's 3 screws and the harness is right thereYes, all 4 visor lights are out.
For this test, I have 12.25V at the battery. I haven't pulled any harness yet, but I removed the driver's side cover on the LH light....
View attachment 483188
with the mirror cover open, I have .171 V to ground on the top terminal, and .188 V to ground on the bottom terminal. With the mirror cover closed, I have 10.95V to ground on both terminals. With the cover open I have 1.8 M ohms to ground on both while showing .17 V
The rear hatch was good, I mistakenly turned off the liftgate with the overhead switch.
Hey @mikez71, likely not, but just in case my comment was taken the wrong way about replacing parts blindly, that was not directed to you...The light switch switch is cheap and I wanted a spare BCM while they are still available, I also ordered a spare OE FPCM a while back just in case.
I have never checked but I would assume the switch is normally open, and grounded (closed circuit) with the flap opened.
well then it's probably not the problem, those other readings are weird thoughWith the mirror cover closed, I have 'OL" measuring ohms to ground on both terminals, cover open is 1.8 M Ohms to ground.
No not yet, but all the dome lights work. All the map lights work as well with the door open, they just won't turn on with the door closed, but the map lights will turn on when I turn the interior dimmer switch to the 'ON" position.have you checked the dome lights for any ground shorts?
Hey @mikez71, likely not, but just in case my comment was taken the wrong way about replacing parts blindly, that was not directed to you...The light switch switch is cheap and I wanted a spare BCM while they are still available, I also ordered a spare OE FPCM a while back just in case.
if none of this is causing battery drain then I would suspect maybe a open ground somewhere in the dome light circuit is my best guessNo not yet, but all the dome lights work. All the map lights work as well with the door open, they just won't turn on with the door closed, but the map lights will turn on when I turn the interior dimmer switch to the 'ON" position.
Did you check both fuses?
Diagram shows CTSY and IS LPS fuses..
Call my self reading all of this but have u removed the LED lights and see if it is still a problem?No not yet, but all the dome lights work. All the map lights work as well with the door open, they just won't turn on with the door closed, but the map lights will turn on when I turn the interior dimmer switch to the 'ON" position.
I'm sorry, I misspoke....not when I pull down the visors, only when I open the vanity mirror door."Within the same test conditions, If I pull down the visor, the IC lights will dim