Idle relearn / throttle body cleaning

[992dr]

Would disconnecting the battery for longer stretch of time help?

When I cleaned mine, I left it on. For some odd reason I was a little hesitant to remove, being electronic and all. It took a few days but, it finally cleared up and drove normal.

 

[02esky0FKSGVN]

Also, there is a youtube video on have to clean it while still on the truck without having issues. I know it's too late now, but maybe it will help others.

basically put key in "on" position, put a brick or weight on gas pedal and that open the throttle. clean away.

I think all these videos on YouTube about the relearn process are all junk because it’s funny how it only works for them like they have the only cars it works for but hence we all have the problem and can’t fix it ... like I said mine relearned after a couple days with normal driving and getting on it every once in a while but give it a week and it’ll be good if not .... than dealership it is and now it’s their problem


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[yugrus]

I haven't watched video, but it is not about re-learning. It is about proper cleaning procedure, so re-learning is not required in the end.

 

[swathdiver]

If you don't open it by hand, it is not different from a normal operation on car. The car wouldn't even know you did cleaning.

I'm saying we did move the plate by hand (because we didn't know any better) and suffered no ill effects afterwards. Throttle plate was 7-8% before and is now 3-5% after cleaning.

Years ago, when we disconnected the computer from the battery the motors of our Buicks would have to learn to idle again after we started them back up. It was neat to watch and listen to the motor rev up and idle back down and learn and the sound was killer with 2 chamber flowmasters and an open air filter. Took just a few minutes.

When we did our LS the relearn time was even less. I wonder if something else is amiss???

 

[GranPrix]

No trouble codes?

I haven't had a chance to check it

 

[GranPrix]

Now I'm having more issues:

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thre...lush-diff-fluid-change-and-all-brakes.100666/

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

This cannot be done if there are any DTCs.

Without Scan Tool - Learn Procedure
1. Start and idle the engine in PARK for 3 minutes.
2. With a scan tool, monitor desired and actual RPM.
3. The ECM will start to learn the new idle cells and Desired RPM should start to decrease.
4. Ignition OFF for 60 seconds.
5. Start and idle the engine in PARK for 3 minutes.
6. After the 3 minute run time the engine should be idling normal.
 If the engine idle speed has not been learned the vehicle will need to be driven at speeds above 70
km/h (44 mph) with several decelerations and extended idles.
7. After the drive cycle, the engine should be idling normally.
 If the engine idle speed has not been learned, turn OFF the ignition for 60 seconds and repeat step
6.
8. Once the engine speed has returned to normal, clear DTCs and return to the diagnostic that referred you
here.

So this is what I’m afraid of having to do on my 2014 @swathdiver

I know that proper procedure says to take off the negative and that resets the TPS and ECM I think. Which causes the idle to reset

 

[swathdiver]

So this is what I’m afraid of having to do on my 2014 @swathdiver

I know that proper procedure says to take off the negative and that resets the TPS and ECM I think. Which causes the idle to reset

Disconnecting the battery does not reset the idle. Only the scan tool or a new ECM install does this. Just take it out and drive it above 44 mph, get out on the highway for 15 minutes or so. The worse it was, the longer it takes to relearn after cleaning.

This assumes you have no vacuum leaks.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Disconnecting the battery does not reset the idle. Only the scan tool or a new ECM install does this. Just take it out and drive it above 44 mph, get out on the highway for 15 minutes or so. The worse it was, the longer it takes to relearn after cleaning.

This assumes you have no vacuum leaks.

Idk if I have vacuum leaks. Not able to do evap tests on the scanner. Says not available on my scanner.

 

[swathdiver]

Idk if I have vacuum leaks.

Look for high negative fuel trims at idle.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Look for high negative fuel trims at idle.

What’s fuel trims? What’s it called ?

 

[swathdiver]

What’s fuel trims? What’s it called ?

In your scan tool, look for LTFTs, Long Term Fuel Trims.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Buddy is over right now, he’s cleaning the body and I’m holding the pedal open for him. Let’s see what happens guys.

 

[swathdiver]

Buddy is over right now, he’s cleaning the body and I’m holding the pedal open for him. Let’s see what happens guys.

Just unplug it and unbolt it so he can clean all around it.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Just unplug it and unbolt it so he can clean all around it.

Throttle body All cleaned up, and no issues.

However i noticed my transmission is overfilled slightly (buddy noticed it when he pulled the dipstick) and one of my lines from transmission has fluid on it. It doesn’t look fresh, which makes me think it’s either a tiny leak or a tech spilled fluid on the line at the dealership. And about the transmission Being over filled: I called and complained to the dealership who replace the fluids, and they said they would look at it for free

Here’s the photo of the lines and what’s on it.

 

[swathdiver]

Throttle body All cleaned up, and no issues.

However i noticed my transmission is overfilled slightly (buddy noticed it when he pulled the dipstick) and one of my lines from transmission has fluid on it. It doesn’t look fresh, which makes me think it’s either a tiny leak or a tech spilled fluid on the line at the dealership. And about the transmission Being over filled: I called and complained to the dealership who replace the fluids, and they said they would look at it for free

Here’s the photo of the lines and what’s on it. View attachment 400064View attachment 400065

The fluid has to be at 158-200 degrees to get an accurate reading on the full level on the dipstick. The cold reading between 80-90 gets you into the ballpark.

Yeah, those lines started sweating and then weeping a long time ago. Change them out, normal maintenance item.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

The fluid has to be at 158-200 degrees to get an accurate reading on the full level on the dipstick. The cold reading between 80-90 gets you into the ballpark.

Yeah, those lines started sweating and then weeping a long time ago. Change them out, normal maintenance

Compared to something like the throttle body, How hard is it to do?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

The fluid has to be at 158-200 degrees to get an accurate reading on the full level on the dipstick. The cold reading between 80-90 gets you into the ballpark.

Yeah, those lines started sweating and then weeping a long time ago. Change them out, normal maintenance item.

I’m sure there’s a diagrams somewhere, not exactly sure if it’s different types of lines or if it’s one assembly all together

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

@swathdiver forgot to tell you that after cleaning the TB the TPS went down to 15.3% from 18.6% at idle. I windy say significant from the numbers you were telling me . Anything else I can check?

 

[swathdiver]

Compared to something like the throttle body, How hard is it to do?

Replacing the lines is a lot more work but not complicated, tedious. You have to drop the front axle down on the passenger side and remove the lower shock bolts to get some clearance to get the lines through.

I’m sure there’s a diagrams somewhere, not exactly sure if it’s different types of lines or if it’s one assembly all together

Depends on whether or not you have the external transmission cooler.

@swathdiver forgot to tell you that after cleaning the TB the TPS went down to 15.3% from 18.6% at idle. I windy say significant from the numbers you were telling me . Anything else I can check?

That's a step in the right direction. It ought to come down some more as you drive it. If it stays high but drives fine, then that's the computer adjusting for a tired throttle body.