I got me a Tahoe!
- Thread starter Nutro
- Start date
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is it running smoothly?
if it's smooth and fuel trims aren't crazy. you might drive around a bit. get it up to temp and see how It does.
if it's missing, it seems like it would be spark related. Definitely chack that power to coil
No its idling rough. I just checked voltage at that coil (#4) and it shows 12v at key on, engine off and with it idling it fluctuates a little from 12.4 - 12.8 but I replaced the entire coil pack with all 4 coils to a different one I have and no change. Now I get P0122 and P0223 which is throttle body/TPS related?
Gearz
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Just a word to the wise if you install a non AFM engine and or if you move your state it may require a OBD2 test for state inspection your car will fail and there's nothing you can do about it. In the state of New Hampshire it goes by VIN so the inspection station can not cheat like using another vehicle so it's practically impossible to get away with any modifications, that's why I use a plug-in Range Technology delete so it can be removed at any time.
this has been covered here to the 9th degree.
you can disabled afm in the tune and it will pass all monitors and pass any emissions testing in the country. even California. Jasper also sells a non afm replacement 6.2 if I remember right that's 50 state legal.
the problem with the ob2 port ones is you drive around with it not activated for a year building up varnish inside, which is the most common reason why afm lifters stick. and then unplug it and it gets used. you're running a risk it will stick at that point.
the best was is to turn it off in the tune correctly and be done with it.
Gearz
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I have asked Diablo Tune the question and there answer was check with your local state laws so I said forget it because they won't do a refund. I would do it in a heartbeat if I could get a answer from them.
Gearz
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You say take it to a tuner but I don't have a local tuner? I have to rely on the internet.
21highcountry
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Stuck open injector, I’d bet if you pulled the plug and put a camera into the cylinder that the injector is just dumping fuel, smell your oil to make sure there is no gas in it from the fuel getting past the cylinder rings, good luck.
I'd suggest a test for exhaust gas in the coolant. Kits available to use on the coolant surge tank.
so moves while cranking over like doing the compression test but when it runs it doesn't?
I feel like I've read that somewhere before
if so, i believe it's a vlom solenoid issue. the afm lifters are activated by oil pressure. the oil pressure unlocka them and the valves don't move. you might try blocking that oil supply off to the solenoids. then venting the pressure at the afm oil galleys and tune it off in the tune. might save you pulling the heads and doing a full delete.
a delete is still better long term but would be interesting.
I hate to admit it but I think I'm going to have to pull the head SO, I am tempted to just toss in 2 new AFM lifters, delete the VLOM completely (Using an LS3 valley cover) and have it turned off in the ECM. If thats even possible while leaving the timing cover etc still installed.
if you use a non afm lifter Valley with afm lifters installed.. you'll have nothing but trouble. the lifters will collapse from built up pressure. it's been done here before. and guy that did it got unlucky and the lifter didn't pop back up. he was also working in a parking garage doing it. sounded miserable trying to bang on the lifter hoping it would pop back up so he didn't have to pull the head and replace. it finally did for him.
you gotta vent that oil pressure if you run afm lifters. any pressure in the ports that activate them, even if it's a small amount that makes it around the lifter from the hydraulic side is enough to release the pins and the lifter collapses.
best to block the oil supply with the plug kit and then cut the gaskets on the afm ports so no pressure can build up. this doesn't require you to pull the heads.
you gotta vent that oil pressure if you run afm lifters. any pressure in the ports that activate them, even if it's a small amount that makes it around the lifter from the hydraulic side is enough to release the pins and the lifter collapses.
best to block the oil supply with the plug kit and then cut the gaskets on the afm ports so no pressure can build up. this doesn't require you to pull the heads.
