swathdiver
Full Access Member
Good and proper advice! Gotta cowboy up and hop back in the saddle ASAP.
I’m back with an Esky this time
- Thread starter Snowbound
- Start date
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Good and proper advice! Gotta cowboy up and hop back in the saddle ASAP.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
The one bolt that holds the headlight in has to be accessed thru the inner fender.
This bolt only has to be loosened, not removed. I still pulled it so I could add some anti-seize to it.
All back together and headlight is working again. I’m kicking myself because I had LED bulbs for the DRLs but I didn’t feel like pulling the passenger side so I didn’t put it in.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Last week she tells me she hears the front brakes grinding. I looked it up and it’s been 3 years since I did the front brakes. So I ordered them and when they came I threw them on. Took it for a ride to break in the pads and I hear a grinding noise. It’s the back brakes! Fronts weren’t bad but they were 3/4 of the way gone. The rears on the other hand, the passenger side was gone gone and the drivers side had maybe 1/8” of pad left.
Drivers side.
Passenger side
Drivers side.
Passenger side
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
I finally swapped out the chrome lug nuts for the black ones I’ve had. I didn’t mind the contrast but Jess kept asking about the black lug nuts so I swapped them out.
Also, this is why you should never add brake fluid to the master unless you’ve replaced a part and lost fluid. Now that the front and rear brakes are new, the master is slammed full. Had I or someone added fluid when it was low, I would have had a mess on my hands. I always check master level before compressing a caliper, if you’ve ever had one spill over you would too. I share this because it’s always a good thing to check.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Define “surprises”. It’s been running great. Jess even took it to the Dells last week with Julianna. I stayed home and worked and didn’t want her running the Esky, the diesel is better on fuel.
Now if you mean “surprises” as in what have I done to it that I can share, you know me too well. Lol. I have a few things up my sleeve. I messaged the fabricator that built the big air kit for my LLY and he’s been out of the custom engine parts game for more than a few years now. I told him what I wanted and if he wouldn’t make them for me I would have to do it because I don’t want the crap that others have. Surprisingly enough, he agreed to help me because I worked with him on the LLY kit to get it right and he sold a lot of them kits. So I have a new Y-bridge, intercooler piping, intake pipe and downpipe being made. I got some 2” stainless steel up pipes that go from manifold to turbo pedestal and don’t have the connection for the EGR because that’s gonna “fall off”.
I also picked up a new exhaust system to eliminate the DPF (diesel particulate filter) and muffler. It’s gonna be 5” straight piped.
Have the smog stuff already turned off in the tune and I have a lift pump that I need to install also. I did a PCV reroute that keeps the oil out of the intake and removed the resonator and installed a plug. I also had a buddy of mine that works at Weathertech pick me up some floor mats.
That’s about it. It’s been running great and I’m happy with it so far but I’m not in love with it like my old LLY. Maybe I’ll get there and maybe I’ll end up selling it.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
I’ve been ignoring the “service suspension system” light on this thing long enough. I’ve already replaced the compressor and both rear shocks. The front struts I ordered are still on backorder and they can’t give me an estimated ship date so I went ahead and ordered some conversion struts with resistors just to get new struts on there and I’ll swap them out when the magneride struts become available.
The system does its self diagnosis on startup and you can hear the compressor run but I still didn’t think the air ride was working like it should. Which makes sense because if that light is on due to a code being set, it most likely disables the system.
Recently a service air bag message came up and that’s what prompted this fishing expedition. I read the code for air bag and it was seat position sensor. That was an easy fix, she must have shoved something under the seat and snagged the wiring and pulled the plug out of sensor. It broke the locking tab off but I just put a dab of super glue on it and it’s tight and light is off.
So while I’m scanning I decided to dig into the suspension system. All my level sensors are working properly, but I’m seeing the air pressure is reading 189PSI. That can’t be right. So I command the exhaust valve to open and pressure doesn’t change. I turn on compressor and pressure doesn’t change. Maybe it’s a bad pressure sensor?
I get under the truck and unplug the main connector to the compressor thinking, let’s start at the basics. KISS method. Connector looks good, terminals aren’t corroded or dirty. Unplug the pressure sensor and same thing, connector and terminals looks good. So I test continuity between main plug to sensor plug and all three wires passed. There’s a 5V reference wire that is gray on vehicle side of main connector and is red on compressor side to the sensor. I test for voltage and I’m seeing 4.86V. That’s good. Then there is a low reference wire that is brown on vehicle side connector, yellow on compressor side. And the sensor signal wire that is tan on vehicle side, green on compressor side.
To test the low reference side I pulled the ESC/ALC 30A fuse from underhood fuse box and then checked resistance with pressure sensor disconnected on that yellow wire going back to control module and ground. Spec is less than 2 ohms and I read 1.6ohms. So now I need to test my reference wire going back to control module. I just wanna make sure I don’t have a break in the wire.
In order to do this I need to drop the spare tire because the module is above the spare. That damn safety latch BS is fighting me again! I’m not having this thing do this to me if I ever need to change a tire on side of road. So I used a ratchet strap and secured tire up and lowered the cable. Got up there with a screw driver and release the safety latch. Dropped the spare tire and completely removed the tire cable assembly. That thing was a rust bomb so I threw it in the sandblast cabinet and knocked all the rust off it.
I noticed the spring on the end is broke in 2 spots. Ask me if I care! It’s getting spray bombed and soaked in oil and antisieze and going back on.
With that out of the way, I pulled the module down and disconnected the connector. Tested the wires going to compressor.
Compressor plug. Module connector
Pin H Gray wire-5V supply Pin6
Pin C White wire- air exh Pin8
Pin F Brown wire- low ref Pin12
Pin A Tan wire- sensor sig Pin34
I tested the air exhaust wire too just to make sure and it was good. All my power and grounds are good also. So there’s only one thing it can be, a bad automatic suspension control module.
Now I bought a used one a long while back thinking I could just program it for this vehicle and it’ll be good to go. Not the case. The number on module cross references ending in 07 model year. Completely different controller.
This is the one from mine.
So that sucks. I can get one that’s 6 weeks out at the low cost of $600. The part number supersedes to a 25971217 which I found for $438. I’ll still have to program it which will only cost me $40 licensing fee through GM’s website for the Tech2. So hopefully that solves my issue and this thing will ride like factory again. Once the magneride struts decide to show up. I don’t even think she appreciates the time, money and effort I put into this truck.
The system does its self diagnosis on startup and you can hear the compressor run but I still didn’t think the air ride was working like it should. Which makes sense because if that light is on due to a code being set, it most likely disables the system.
Recently a service air bag message came up and that’s what prompted this fishing expedition. I read the code for air bag and it was seat position sensor. That was an easy fix, she must have shoved something under the seat and snagged the wiring and pulled the plug out of sensor. It broke the locking tab off but I just put a dab of super glue on it and it’s tight and light is off.
So while I’m scanning I decided to dig into the suspension system. All my level sensors are working properly, but I’m seeing the air pressure is reading 189PSI. That can’t be right. So I command the exhaust valve to open and pressure doesn’t change. I turn on compressor and pressure doesn’t change. Maybe it’s a bad pressure sensor?
I get under the truck and unplug the main connector to the compressor thinking, let’s start at the basics. KISS method. Connector looks good, terminals aren’t corroded or dirty. Unplug the pressure sensor and same thing, connector and terminals looks good. So I test continuity between main plug to sensor plug and all three wires passed. There’s a 5V reference wire that is gray on vehicle side of main connector and is red on compressor side to the sensor. I test for voltage and I’m seeing 4.86V. That’s good. Then there is a low reference wire that is brown on vehicle side connector, yellow on compressor side. And the sensor signal wire that is tan on vehicle side, green on compressor side.
To test the low reference side I pulled the ESC/ALC 30A fuse from underhood fuse box and then checked resistance with pressure sensor disconnected on that yellow wire going back to control module and ground. Spec is less than 2 ohms and I read 1.6ohms. So now I need to test my reference wire going back to control module. I just wanna make sure I don’t have a break in the wire.
In order to do this I need to drop the spare tire because the module is above the spare. That damn safety latch BS is fighting me again! I’m not having this thing do this to me if I ever need to change a tire on side of road. So I used a ratchet strap and secured tire up and lowered the cable. Got up there with a screw driver and release the safety latch. Dropped the spare tire and completely removed the tire cable assembly. That thing was a rust bomb so I threw it in the sandblast cabinet and knocked all the rust off it.
I noticed the spring on the end is broke in 2 spots. Ask me if I care! It’s getting spray bombed and soaked in oil and antisieze and going back on.
With that out of the way, I pulled the module down and disconnected the connector. Tested the wires going to compressor.
Compressor plug. Module connector
Pin H Gray wire-5V supply Pin6
Pin C White wire- air exh Pin8
Pin F Brown wire- low ref Pin12
Pin A Tan wire- sensor sig Pin34
I tested the air exhaust wire too just to make sure and it was good. All my power and grounds are good also. So there’s only one thing it can be, a bad automatic suspension control module.
Now I bought a used one a long while back thinking I could just program it for this vehicle and it’ll be good to go. Not the case. The number on module cross references ending in 07 model year. Completely different controller.
This is the one from mine.
So that sucks. I can get one that’s 6 weeks out at the low cost of $600. The part number supersedes to a 25971217 which I found for $438. I’ll still have to program it which will only cost me $40 licensing fee through GM’s website for the Tech2. So hopefully that solves my issue and this thing will ride like factory again. Once the magneride struts decide to show up. I don’t even think she appreciates the time, money and effort I put into this truck.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
Earlier today I painted the spare tire carrier. I still have to lube the safety mechanism before I put it back up.
I also pulled the struts. New ones will be here 2mrw. Well, the conversions ones will be here. Don’t know when the magneride struts will show up.
Also I found out why the front left tire keeps losing air. This is how my luck works.
Rim has a small hair line crack.
Dropping that off in morning to get repaired and recoated. When it rains, it pours.
I also pulled the struts. New ones will be here 2mrw. Well, the conversions ones will be here. Don’t know when the magneride struts will show up.
Also I found out why the front left tire keeps losing air. This is how my luck works.
Rim has a small hair line crack.
Dropping that off in morning to get repaired and recoated. When it rains, it pours.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I bent the safety latch out of the way in my tire holder--I haven't used it since tho.
Mine was so bad I had to drop the entire assembly to get the tire off.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
My suspension module should be here on the 11th, in the meantime I had to get this thing rolling again.
The new temporary struts showed up.
The resistors that came with them.
Straight forward install. Then just install the resistor in the wiring for the strut, polarity doesn’t matter.
I must not have gotten a picture of them installed. I’m losing it. But in my defense I’ve been up since 3pm yesterday.
I then turned my attention to the rear sway bar. One end link was trash, the ball fell out of its socket when I took it off. I replaced both bushings and both links. Then it was time to wash my stinky self and climb into bed. I honestly don’t know why I’m up right now!
The new temporary struts showed up.
The resistors that came with them.
Straight forward install. Then just install the resistor in the wiring for the strut, polarity doesn’t matter.
I must not have gotten a picture of them installed. I’m losing it. But in my defense I’ve been up since 3pm yesterday.
I then turned my attention to the rear sway bar. One end link was trash, the ball fell out of its socket when I took it off. I replaced both bushings and both links. Then it was time to wash my stinky self and climb into bed. I honestly don’t know why I’m up right now!
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
I have no issue with that. I bought these as well as the magneride struts from Suncore. That’s the same company that I bought my rear shocks and compressor from. I can’t say for sure when my magneride struts will be here but I’m definitely swapping to the OEM struts as soon as they come in. I didn’t buy a automatic suspension control module and the OEM rear shocks to bypass the front. I only paid $218 for these so I’ll let them go cheap when the time comes. I’ll also report back on how they ride and also if they sit higher and if they settle in. She don’t put many miles on so hopefully they’ll have less than 1000 miles on them, I don’t wanna wait all summer to get the OEM struts.
Edit: I always do this! I forgot to measure fender height with old struts to see what the new ones do for ride height and to see if they settle in. I’ll take a measurement as soon as I get rim back and set vehicle on ground. And then I’ll measure again after a month or so.
iamdub
Full Access Member
He's been trying to get his to ride better and even bought OE ZW7 (Premium Smooth Ride) struts. His has the regular, inactive suspension. It'd be nice to know of a good solution, even better if it's cheap.
Speaking of, another member mentioned his old springs might be the problem. I always thought springs got softer with age and not firmer. In my mind, metal being loaded and flexed its entire life will only get weaker. Whatcha think?
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
I agree, the ride won’t get firmer with time, only softer because of the fatigued springs.
What comes to mind is maybe the springs aren’t fatigued but more along the lines of his tires are harder from being old and heat cycles on the rubber.
Hard ride could also be caused from bushings in front arms and/or rear trailing arms. Those bushing usually get hard and brittle and eventually start cracking.
I’ve also seen where after lowering a vehicle people complain about a rough ride and think it’s the new springs that cause it but it ends up being from the front arms and trailing arms are not in their normal cycling range and are binding at the new ride height. This isn’t the case up front when the lowering kit is done with new spindles because the arms are in the same place and just the wheel center is moved up on spindle.
These are all things that need to looked at to determine where exactly the binding is happeneing.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I don't mean to turn your thread into a diagnostics center for someone else's ride. lol
All the front suspension is new, not lowered or lifted and the tires are Michelin Defender LTX that, I think, aren't very old. IIRC, he has the factory 20s and the factory tire size. So, it's not for lack of sidewall and those Michelins are known for their ride quality.
We've pretty much narrowed it down to the strut and/or spring. Which, I'll have to retract my previous statement- He has new OEM ACDelco struts (Not "Gold"/"Professional", etc.). But, we're not 100% sure they are the ZW7 struts. They could be base model LS or even PPV/SSV struts. Everyone's fitment guide shows them to "fit" everything from the PPV to the Escalade. We've realized we couldn't trust Rock Auto's site as the information changed in the period of time between him ordering the struts and me looking them up. Also, it appears all their RPO codes are written backwards.
He has ACDelco #540-615, #20955486
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
@iamdub - don’t worry about derailing any of my threads, I bounce around on my own.
I’m gonna look up the thread in question and check it out. I’d like to know all the details so I’m not speculating. It may just be the strut or spring but there should be a way of finding out the spring rate on what he has and compare it to what it came with factory. I have a little while here at work so I’ll check it out now.
I’m gonna look up the thread in question and check it out. I’d like to know all the details so I’m not speculating. It may just be the strut or spring but there should be a way of finding out the spring rate on what he has and compare it to what it came with factory. I have a little while here at work so I’ll check it out now.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
@iamdub- is this the thread you’re referring to?
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
If not, link it for me.
Also on a side note, your avatar makes me go cross eyed which was probably your intention. Lol.
2012 LT suspension parts
Pristine LT but is a little bumpy. 150K. I only drive around town so want to have a very smooth ride. VIN: 1GNSCBE00CR255730 I'm interested in the order of replacement and best parts. I'm not sure OEM is worth the extra money but I'll hold off to hear advice. I can't do a full rebuild all at...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
If not, link it for me.
Also on a side note, your avatar makes me go cross eyed which was probably your intention. Lol.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
A bad strut/shock will also deliver a rough ride, especially if it doesn't move.
One guy used on of those universal assemblies and another used a hodge podge of parts but didn't replace the seats and mounts and such. It is my contention that those cannot be ignored if you want the car to ride like new.
One guy used on of those universal assemblies and another used a hodge podge of parts but didn't replace the seats and mounts and such. It is my contention that those cannot be ignored if you want the car to ride like new.
iamdub
Full Access Member
@iamdub- is this the thread you’re referring to?
2012 LT suspension parts
Pristine LT but is a little bumpy. 150K. I only drive around town so want to have a very smooth ride. VIN: 1GNSCBE00CR255730 I'm interested in the order of replacement and best parts. I'm not sure OEM is worth the extra money but I'll hold off to hear advice. I can't do a full rebuild all at...
If not, link it for me.
Also on a side note, your avatar makes me go cross eyed which was probably your intention. Lol.
I didn't think to link you to the thread. But, yeah, that's the current head-scratcher. I have a bit of interest in this as well since I've always thought mine rode much firmer than how I think an LTZ would ride. Since mine is lowered on Belltech struts, I have too many other factors at play. But, his is all new stock stuff, other than the Mevotech parts.
OP
OP
Snowbound
Jim
After all this talk about aftermarket springs I figured I would bust mine down and keep them around for a little while. But the top nut does not want to come off. I have them soaking and I’ll try again 2mrw.
Don’t make fun of my homemade spring compressor. I made this over 20 years ago with some air shocks I had around. This thing has busted down more struts than I can count. I just don’t have it mounted on wall right now.
Side note: this springs are some heavy duty suckers. I can usually collapse springs with about 90psi and these didn’t move until I cranked regulator up to 135psi. Stiff springs on this caddy.
Don’t make fun of my homemade spring compressor. I made this over 20 years ago with some air shocks I had around. This thing has busted down more struts than I can count. I just don’t have it mounted on wall right now.
Side note: this springs are some heavy duty suckers. I can usually collapse springs with about 90psi and these didn’t move until I cranked regulator up to 135psi. Stiff springs on this caddy.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I began studying the pics before reading the text. I've never seen that. It's bad ass!
And, yes, these springs are crazy. I used two of the loaner kits (four compressors total) to change my struts because the screws of one pair were bending a lot.
