1998Suburban
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2014
- Posts
- 109
- Reaction score
- 23
After 18 years and 177K miles the front suspension on my '98 K1500 Suburban was starting to hurt. She wandered on the interstate and I found myself aiming in a general direction as opposed to actually steering her. I looked for a good rebuild thread but couldn't find an all-in-one that specifically covered control arm bushing and ball joint replacement. I figured I'd write one based on my rebuild experience.
As my truck was blessed by living in MA, ME, CT, and NY during her early years I had some pretty crusty looking suspension parts:
![RF_zps3zcyjfni.jpg RF_zps3zcyjfni.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164405-4f7a58537f72e40ae0d18a3d9cf4deed.jpg)
I now live in area that doesn't use much road salt and has 2 u pull it's within a reasonable driving distance. I decide to keep an eye out for a good donor so I could start with rust-free components. This beauty showed up and was exactly what I needed. This '99 even had the HD torsion bars:![lizzie%20front%20suspension%20donor_zpsvr5iatcj.jpg lizzie%20front%20suspension%20donor_zpsvr5iatcj.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164406-3f16702a9659c172c6d5f7ce16cc88b6.jpg)
After a long day with hand tools I had everything I needed. Rust free Upper control arms, lower control arms, torsion bars, keys, adjuster, and a pile of bolts and associated fasteners. I'll get into the specifics of stripping the front end a bit later on as I didn't take many pictures here. You can see it was a muddy mess that day.
Anyway after a trip to the car wash I cleaned up my new control arms:
![control%20arms%20at%20car%20wash_zps5puaoaih.jpg control%20arms%20at%20car%20wash_zps5puaoaih.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164407-9963a68c2a91c806904a5869ecfc61e4.jpg)
I was pleased with them. Little to no rust and they cleaned up well. Next stop was Rock Auto to order Moog parts for the rebuild. FYI the '97-'99 uses a stamped lower control arm with a high press force design ball joint. GM sweetened the pot by using green Loctite on the lower ball joints so they are tight.
I picked up the ball joint service loaner kit from Advance Auto as it had 4x the adapters than Auto Zone's kit. The OE ball joints take up the entire shoulder of the LCA flange. In order to press these ball joints out I used the sleeve that has a "V" notch in it on the receiver end. This allowed the outer edge of the ball joint to move freely.
![ball%20joint%20out_zpsznvyovfx.jpg ball%20joint%20out_zpsznvyovfx.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164408-37f2aa1e160df5e1530573339cb88e5d.jpg)
These ball joints are a TIGHT press fit! I ended up putting the control arms in my 20 ton press and I saw the press frame deflect as it loaded up.
I ended up making 4 tools for this project: I ground down an old CV axle nut so it fit inside the LCA bushing, fabricated 2 sleeves from an old ball joint service kit to support the LCA while removing and installing the bushing, and used a piece of conduit (silver) from Lowe's to service the UCA bushings:
![100_3915_zpsdoreqi81.jpg 100_3915_zpsdoreqi81.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164409-9d8d57d25f7ced8dfd4724dde52611b2.jpg)
![100_3916_zps7w10lnhl.jpg 100_3916_zps7w10lnhl.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164410-f6d54db9617290aeba411189e9946f6c.jpg)
Using the ground down nut and longer sleeve I removed the large LCA bushing. The sleeve with the "V" referenced earlier is visible in the tool tray
![LCA%20bushing%20removal_zpsdlyyxchh.jpg LCA%20bushing%20removal_zpsdlyyxchh.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164411-cf9a4dd7444045ef0e843aaf496f3b19.jpg)
The shorter LCA bushing is crimped and these crimps must be ground off prior to removing the bushings. The photo of the crimped bushing is from the crusty LCA I removed:
![crimped%20LCA%20bushing_zpsom4dkoz5.jpg crimped%20LCA%20bushing_zpsom4dkoz5.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164412-dcb98242100d105c24c5036f1f630ffb.jpg)
Here's what the bushing looks like after the crimps have been ground off and the bushing has been removed.
![100_3911_zpsfjnbp35v.jpg 100_3911_zpsfjnbp35v.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164413-82c7101b657d66cabd80ccbfe83a08b3.jpg)
At this point the LCA is stripped and the new bushings and ball joint are ready to be installed. To install the bushings I used a BFH (big $$$$$$$ hammer), the supports fabricated earlier, and the appropriate socket to drive them home. When installing the larger bushing the cutout should be installed near the torsion bar hex. The slot is visible on the old bushing:
![100_3912_zpsys6lryos.jpg 100_3912_zpsys6lryos.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164414-35fcde9429bc642a049fa8f748b09aaf.jpg)
Next are the UCA bushings and ball joints. The upper control arm is a wire form design. I started off by grinding the heads off the rivets holding the upper ball joint in place. Then i was able to separate the ball joint from the control arm:
![Upper%20control%20arm%201_zpsvfber6cj.jpg Upper%20control%20arm%201_zpsvfber6cj.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164415-4c2c3da0003c42fb3931f5d72564e157.jpg)
At this point I ground, hammered, beat, and otherwise cajoled the rivets out of the upper control arms. Ultimately I ended up using a handful of grade 8 bolts and the press to press each one out. They were VERY stubborn:
![uca1_zpslt5dthu8.jpg uca1_zpslt5dthu8.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164416-e338a8ed6742a18cb939cf1680578c14.jpg)
The upper control arm bushings were fairly straightforward to remove using the sleeves in the loaner tool kit. At this point the control arm is stripped and ready for new components:
![UCA%20no%20bushings_zpsotbkkmgu.jpg UCA%20no%20bushings_zpsotbkkmgu.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164417-b5add5615715c59242ea58b4d974ba2f.jpg)
Using the piece of conduit from Lowe's the upper control arm bushings can be installed with the C clamp in the ball joint service kit. As mentioned the lower bushings were installed with the sledge:
![bushing%20replacement_zpseiwkln6n.jpg bushing%20replacement_zpseiwkln6n.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164418-5a04d07147eb8876c60bd5ffbe3c773d.jpg)
Once the bushings have been installed the control arms are ready for new ball joints:
![bushings%20installed_zpszjc4bmim.jpg bushings%20installed_zpszjc4bmim.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164419-c24cde01593a5fff2f66a83d31ff54b3.jpg)
The upper ball joints are bolted in using the supplied bolts, while the lowers are pressed in. As mentioned the lower ball joints are a high press force design. I was unable to fully install them with the C clamp in the service kit and had to go back to the 20 ton press. When installing be sure to align the Zerk fitting with the depression in the end of the control arm.
The rebuilt control arms are now ready to go on:
![rebuilt%20control%20arms_zps5gzmlbpd.jpg rebuilt%20control%20arms_zps5gzmlbpd.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164420-a520fa8dd34ebbcf7b5cd13216938333.jpg)
In addition to having rust-free components to put on the truck pulling/rebuilding the control arms beforehand limited my truck's down time. I did add a coat of POR-15 for both longevity and aesthetics:
![control%20arms%20done_zpsbu8lpd4y.jpg control%20arms%20done_zpsbu8lpd4y.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164421-11de4a2eb48e6bd49620ae1e24dd6000.jpg)
As my truck was blessed by living in MA, ME, CT, and NY during her early years I had some pretty crusty looking suspension parts:
![RF_zps3zcyjfni.jpg RF_zps3zcyjfni.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164405-4f7a58537f72e40ae0d18a3d9cf4deed.jpg)
I now live in area that doesn't use much road salt and has 2 u pull it's within a reasonable driving distance. I decide to keep an eye out for a good donor so I could start with rust-free components. This beauty showed up and was exactly what I needed. This '99 even had the HD torsion bars:
![lizzie%20front%20suspension%20donor_zpsvr5iatcj.jpg lizzie%20front%20suspension%20donor_zpsvr5iatcj.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164406-3f16702a9659c172c6d5f7ce16cc88b6.jpg)
After a long day with hand tools I had everything I needed. Rust free Upper control arms, lower control arms, torsion bars, keys, adjuster, and a pile of bolts and associated fasteners. I'll get into the specifics of stripping the front end a bit later on as I didn't take many pictures here. You can see it was a muddy mess that day.
Anyway after a trip to the car wash I cleaned up my new control arms:
![control%20arms%20at%20car%20wash_zps5puaoaih.jpg control%20arms%20at%20car%20wash_zps5puaoaih.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164407-9963a68c2a91c806904a5869ecfc61e4.jpg)
I was pleased with them. Little to no rust and they cleaned up well. Next stop was Rock Auto to order Moog parts for the rebuild. FYI the '97-'99 uses a stamped lower control arm with a high press force design ball joint. GM sweetened the pot by using green Loctite on the lower ball joints so they are tight.
I picked up the ball joint service loaner kit from Advance Auto as it had 4x the adapters than Auto Zone's kit. The OE ball joints take up the entire shoulder of the LCA flange. In order to press these ball joints out I used the sleeve that has a "V" notch in it on the receiver end. This allowed the outer edge of the ball joint to move freely.
![ball%20joint%20out_zpsznvyovfx.jpg ball%20joint%20out_zpsznvyovfx.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164408-37f2aa1e160df5e1530573339cb88e5d.jpg)
These ball joints are a TIGHT press fit! I ended up putting the control arms in my 20 ton press and I saw the press frame deflect as it loaded up.
I ended up making 4 tools for this project: I ground down an old CV axle nut so it fit inside the LCA bushing, fabricated 2 sleeves from an old ball joint service kit to support the LCA while removing and installing the bushing, and used a piece of conduit (silver) from Lowe's to service the UCA bushings:
![100_3915_zpsdoreqi81.jpg 100_3915_zpsdoreqi81.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164409-9d8d57d25f7ced8dfd4724dde52611b2.jpg)
![100_3916_zps7w10lnhl.jpg 100_3916_zps7w10lnhl.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164410-f6d54db9617290aeba411189e9946f6c.jpg)
Using the ground down nut and longer sleeve I removed the large LCA bushing. The sleeve with the "V" referenced earlier is visible in the tool tray
![LCA%20bushing%20removal_zpsdlyyxchh.jpg LCA%20bushing%20removal_zpsdlyyxchh.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164411-cf9a4dd7444045ef0e843aaf496f3b19.jpg)
The shorter LCA bushing is crimped and these crimps must be ground off prior to removing the bushings. The photo of the crimped bushing is from the crusty LCA I removed:
![crimped%20LCA%20bushing_zpsom4dkoz5.jpg crimped%20LCA%20bushing_zpsom4dkoz5.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164412-dcb98242100d105c24c5036f1f630ffb.jpg)
Here's what the bushing looks like after the crimps have been ground off and the bushing has been removed.
![100_3911_zpsfjnbp35v.jpg 100_3911_zpsfjnbp35v.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164413-82c7101b657d66cabd80ccbfe83a08b3.jpg)
At this point the LCA is stripped and the new bushings and ball joint are ready to be installed. To install the bushings I used a BFH (big $$$$$$$ hammer), the supports fabricated earlier, and the appropriate socket to drive them home. When installing the larger bushing the cutout should be installed near the torsion bar hex. The slot is visible on the old bushing:
![100_3912_zpsys6lryos.jpg 100_3912_zpsys6lryos.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164414-35fcde9429bc642a049fa8f748b09aaf.jpg)
Next are the UCA bushings and ball joints. The upper control arm is a wire form design. I started off by grinding the heads off the rivets holding the upper ball joint in place. Then i was able to separate the ball joint from the control arm:
![Upper%20control%20arm%201_zpsvfber6cj.jpg Upper%20control%20arm%201_zpsvfber6cj.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164415-4c2c3da0003c42fb3931f5d72564e157.jpg)
At this point I ground, hammered, beat, and otherwise cajoled the rivets out of the upper control arms. Ultimately I ended up using a handful of grade 8 bolts and the press to press each one out. They were VERY stubborn:
![uca1_zpslt5dthu8.jpg uca1_zpslt5dthu8.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164416-e338a8ed6742a18cb939cf1680578c14.jpg)
The upper control arm bushings were fairly straightforward to remove using the sleeves in the loaner tool kit. At this point the control arm is stripped and ready for new components:
![UCA%20no%20bushings_zpsotbkkmgu.jpg UCA%20no%20bushings_zpsotbkkmgu.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164417-b5add5615715c59242ea58b4d974ba2f.jpg)
Using the piece of conduit from Lowe's the upper control arm bushings can be installed with the C clamp in the ball joint service kit. As mentioned the lower bushings were installed with the sledge:
![bushing%20replacement_zpseiwkln6n.jpg bushing%20replacement_zpseiwkln6n.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164418-5a04d07147eb8876c60bd5ffbe3c773d.jpg)
Once the bushings have been installed the control arms are ready for new ball joints:
![bushings%20installed_zpszjc4bmim.jpg bushings%20installed_zpszjc4bmim.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164419-c24cde01593a5fff2f66a83d31ff54b3.jpg)
The upper ball joints are bolted in using the supplied bolts, while the lowers are pressed in. As mentioned the lower ball joints are a high press force design. I was unable to fully install them with the C clamp in the service kit and had to go back to the 20 ton press. When installing be sure to align the Zerk fitting with the depression in the end of the control arm.
The rebuilt control arms are now ready to go on:
![rebuilt%20control%20arms_zps5gzmlbpd.jpg rebuilt%20control%20arms_zps5gzmlbpd.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164420-a520fa8dd34ebbcf7b5cd13216938333.jpg)
In addition to having rust-free components to put on the truck pulling/rebuilding the control arms beforehand limited my truck's down time. I did add a coat of POR-15 for both longevity and aesthetics:
![control%20arms%20done_zpsbu8lpd4y.jpg control%20arms%20done_zpsbu8lpd4y.jpg](https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/data/attachments/164/164421-11de4a2eb48e6bd49620ae1e24dd6000.jpg)
Last edited: