How to fix Hot Air when A/C is on. Install new air mix/blend door actuator

[Grimes]

In all seriousness, can someone please help me? I really don't want to go through these blind because I haven't a clue what exactly I am looking for, and I would rather avoid $200 in labor costs.

 

[Balgame03]

Grimes, I wish I could refer you to my post, but the Heat was coming out of my Drivers side, not the passenger side like yours. Unfortunately, it sounds like it might be the more difficult blend door actuator that needs to be replaced based on prior posts.

 

[Grimes]

Grimes, I wish I could refer you to my post, but the Heat was coming out of my Drivers side, not the passenger side like yours. Unfortunately, it sounds like it might be the more difficult blend door actuator that needs to be replaced based on prior posts.

Which I'm alright with, as I've dismantled a bit of the dash before. I just don't want to be trying for all 3 of them.

 

[SmilingBob]

Great thread, just what I was looking for. I have a steady clicking, like a tick tock from a clock, and I've isolated it to the black plastic housing beneath the glove box. I thought at first it was the cd changer, but i can actually feel something clicking in the plastic housing when I touch it. It will do the clicking intermittently, and sometimes not at all when driving the vehicle. Anyone have a clue which blend door / actuator I'm looking at replacing? The AC and Heat actually seem to be working properly but the intermittent clicking is very annoying, and I'd rather fix it before something quits working.

2004 Denali BTW, thanks.

 

[SLCHOE]

You need to find out which one it is. You need to test out each door.

Temperature Blend door: Does the air switch from cold to hot?
Floor/Vent door: Can you switch from windshield to vents to floor?
Recirculation door: If the above two are working properly, this is probably the culprit. This door switches from directing cabin air or fresh outside air into the blower intake. While switching you should be able to hear a difference in air volume as it changes.

 

[shemp]

Just joined to say thanks. I found this thread via Google when my rear air in my 2002 Yukon was only blowing hot when the temp was set to minimum. So assuming it was a bad actuator, I removed the rear hot/cold actuator and swapped it with the other rear actuator that was on the rear blower assembly (fresh/recirculate blend I believe) and saw that didn't fix the stuck hot air issue so I followed the instructions in the first post here to reset the system (disconnect battery, wait 30 sec, reconnect, turn ignition on for 3 minutes, turn ignition off) and I saw both actuators re-calibrate. AC works again!! Then I realized that a week before, the battery want dead and I had to replace it so the system must of got hosed at that point.

So thanks everyone!!

 

[Laylow_g]

did u fix it?

Very nice write up. I need to check out the actuator for my rear vents as I only get "cool" air, not hot.

Have you fixed that problem ?? mine dose the same thing

 

[redsamson]

Excellent writeup. I live in Florida, its hot right now, and I started getting heat blasted in the drivers side every few days. Like most I can turn the car off and it will return to cold when turned back on. I followed the directions on here, replaced the actuator and I'm hoping they'll be no more random heat blast.
The kickplate is probably the worst part of the job, and like others I didn't bother installing the hard to reach screw behind the center console. The other 2 hold it fine.

 

[K1slugger]

Same issue on my 05' Tahoe - replaced it just as the pics show and it is perfect again. Make sure you buy a good replacement - I have heard many issues with Dorman actuators, no first hand experience with them.

 

[K1slugger]

WHITOUT - I have had to do this for mine as well and this info/pics is spot on - really nice job. Question for you....Does that actuator on the passenger side control the Driver air or the Passenger air? Where is the other actuator located? Thanks for the help

 

[leon72]

Hi guys, I need help figuring out why my ac compressor cuts off after a while of driving it. So It works it blows cold air then it well suddenly start blowing hot air.. I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe any reply is helpful thanks

 

[Zumwalt]

Same exact problem im having, driving a full day freezing air then out of no where its outside hot air, took it to ac guy he hooked up the pressure machine and said the high pressure tube was spot on but the low pressure tube was double what its supposed to be, he said I might have air or to much antifreeze, ive never touched the thing for it to do that... im taking the truck tomorrow to another ac guy and ill let ya know.. some say its condenser and not compressor some say to vacuum all antifreeze out and put in recommended amount, im no mechanic so I don't know, ill find out..

 

[kingmarvelliss]

the actuator that you are talking about

that actuator closest to the floor on the passenger side in my 04 z71 tahoe controlls the driver's side temperature, even though it has the same symptoms as yours, i need to find which actuator controls the air on the passenger side, because my driver's side is fine, it blows cold air, but my passenger side actuator blows hot air only.

 

[Grimes]

that actuator closest to the floor on the passenger side in my 04 z71 tahoe controlls the driver's side temperature, even though it has the same symptoms as yours, i need to find which actuator controls the air on the passenger side, because my driver's side is fine, it blows cold air, but my passenger side actuator blows hot air only.

Not to call out the OP, but I think things are a bit swapped, specifically the pictures. Some of them are from this Sparky's guide that is for fixing hot air blowing out of the driver side vents despite changing controls. The actuator that effects the driver's side is the "easy" one, located behind hush cover on the passenger side. Honestly, judging by those guides and the rest of this thread, I think the OP is for fixing the driver side hot air, not passenger. The part just happens to be on the passenger side, and the same part for both fixes.

I believe the true DIY guide for fixing hot air blowing out of the passenger side vents despite changing controls is this Sparky's guide. This one is "behind the radio", towards the firewall. This will take time.

That said, both fixes use the same part (GM# 89018365). $80 at the time of this post.

To those still confused: I strongly suggest you go somewhere or use your own OBD 2 and pull your codes, because the actuators should spit some if they're out. This will tell you what you need to fix.

For code information and additional information relating to the issues mentioned in this thread (stuck on hot air, ticktock sound) see the following quote:

GM BULLETIN #1
______________

HVAC System Cannot Be Controlled Or Defaults To Defrost Mode (Repair HVAC Actuator Harness)


Models: 2003–2005 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT

2003–2005 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2003–2005 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL


Condition

• Some customers may comment that they cannot control the HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system. Others may comment that the HVAC system defaults to the Defrost mode.

• Technicians may find that the following diagnostic trouble codes have set:

• B0229 Recirculation Actuator

• B0414 Left Air Temperature Actuator

• B0424 Right Air Temperature Actuator

• B3770 Mode Actuator

Cause

The HVAC actuator harness may contact a sharp edge on the instrument panel support brace, causing a rub through condition and a ground out of the actuator control and/or feedback circuits.

Correction

Locate the HVAC actuator harness contact point under the instrument panel with the instrument panel compartment door opened and folded downward. The actuator harness is located in the left side of the opening in the instrument panel.

Technicians are to inspect the HVAC actuator harness for contact with the instrument panel support brace. Repair any damage to the actuator harness wiring and install protective plastic conduit over the harness. Install friction tape over the sharp edge of the instrument panel brace. Clear the diagnostic trouble codes and verify proper HVAC system operation.




GM BULLETIN #2
______________


Intermittent Ticking Noise from I/P, Poor A/C Performance, HVAC DTCs B0229, B0414, B0424, B3770, (Reprogram HVAC Control Module)


Models: 2004–2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

2004–2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2004–2006 GMC Sierra Models, Yukon Models

with Air Conditioning (RPOs CJ2, CJ3)


Condition

Some customers may comment on one or more of the following concerns:

• Intermittent ticking/clicking noise from the instrument panel.

• Recirculation mode does not work or Air Conditioning (A/C) system performance is poor during high ambient temperatures.

• Unable to control the driver side temperature.

• Unable to control the passenger side temperature.

• Unable to change the front system modes.

Cause

This condition may be caused by the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) actuators that may hunt for the correct commanded position. This cycling may cause a clicking or ticking noise.

An overtravel of the HVAC system control doors may cause one or more of the concerns listed above. If an overtravel occurs, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be set, and the door will go to a preset default position. When a system door defaults, that door will stay at the default position until the DTC is cleared. After the DTC is cleared, the door will operate properly until the overtravel condition re-occurs.


Correction

Technicians are to perform the normal diagnostic procedures for these concerns. If diagnostics show that the HVAC system door(s) travel below 5 counts (out of the lower range) or above 250 counts (out of the upper range), then update the software calibrations in the HVAC control module.

The new calibrations have been updated to compensate for the actuator overtravel condition, the actuator hunting and the ticking/clicking noises. The new calibrations effectively eliminate the codes listed above, the default position of the doors associated with the DTCs and opens up the feedback position value. The new calibrations should not be used unless the vehicle has one or more of the customer concerns listed above or a DTC listed above has been set. The new calibrations will not correct any other DTC or A/C system performance concern.

In closing, something I strongly recommend to everyone attempting this is while you are elbow deep in your dash board, check your wires for abrasions or full incisions. If you see them, and that may be the issue, splice n fix and make sure it doesn't happen again!

As well, it seems that disconnecting the battery can lead to some of these issues. Before attempting to replace the part (Note: Always do this after installing), try recalibrating the actuator by either using your OBD 2 scanner or disconnect the battery for a full 60 seconds, reconnect it, start the engine, do not touch the AC controls or anything that could adjust it (driver profiles), after 4 minutes of the engine being on turn it off, wait a few seconds, then start the engine again. AC controls should function as normal.

I haven't actually done this install yet as I simply haven't had the time, and it will take time. I'll be doing mine Thursday, so if after that I have anymore to add I will certainly do so. I hope it works.

 

[Grimes]

All that lovely post said, I gave this a whirl today. TL;DR: I won't be spending a day on this truck for a while.

All was going smoothly taking the dash off and such. Whizzed through the 1st part of the sparky's guide, then through the first bit of the 2nd. It wasn't until the airbag part that I started really having trouble. The guide deviated a bit too much for the airbag that I had, so I had to kind of figure it out myself. Eventually I found the 4 bolts (still 2 top and 2 sort-of-bottom, but not in the same positions as pictured). Got the airbag out, but from there it was more of me looking and thinking of what I could do to make space. Clipped some retaining clips here, moved some stuff there, eventually had it so I could get my fist on the blend door actuator. The duct work was the only thing in the way, and I really didn't want to start taking it all out as well (I know NOTHING about the front end of it all, no idea what attaches where). I don't have a ratchet or bolt driver (obviously) small enough to work the bolts, and the only non-ratchet socket wrench (small handle, has swivel head) still just wasn't doing it for me, as the space was still just too cramped. I threw the towel in after about 5-6 hours of work. Plugged the air bag fuse back in, hooked up the battery, and will drive it to a shop tomorrow as-is and have them simply swap the parts, then I'll put it all back together.

This project silently killed my interest in my truck for a little while

Suggestions:
You need a small screw driver (no longer than 4"), and a smallish socket wrench/ratchet with 5.5, 7, 8, and 10mm sockets. Larger-width ratchets work most of the time, but there were a few spots where my swivel-headed socket wrench was needed (or something similarly sized).

This isn't a high acuity project (if you have a step-by-step guide like the one on Sparky's), as its simply disassembly and assembly of plastic stuff full of bolts, but it requires patience, and time.

Edit:
All fixed and put back together. Shop replaced the actuator and all is back to normal, as expected. Came home and put the dash back together myself. Airbag light off and everything.

 

[Mudfrog]

I'm wondering if this is my problem. I get cold AC if the knob is set to the coldest setting. If I try to blend the temperature even slightly it goes to full heat. Do you think this air mix blender is my issue?

2002 Tahoe.

 

[NathanJax]

I'm wondering if this is my problem. I get cold AC if the knob is set to the coldest setting. If I try to blend the temperature even slightly it goes to full heat. Do you think this air mix blender is my issue?

2002 Tahoe.

yup

 

[Mudfrog]

yup

Ok, I'll definitely have to add this to my list of stuff to do.

 

[pkturpin]

I have a 05 Tahoe that I just replaced the air blend actuator on and it works great. Now I have another issue........cold air until I put car under a load, such as going up a hill that requires a gear change or when cruise kicks in and pushes throttle....then the air turns hot, then back to cold when the engine levels back out......any ideas?
Thanks

 

[fire730]

I have a 05 Tahoe that I just replaced the air blend actuator on and it works great. Now I have another issue........cold air until I put car under a load, such as going up a hill that requires a gear change or when cruise kicks in and pushes throttle....then the air turns hot, then back to cold when the engine levels back out......any ideas?
Thanks

Hot like the heater is on or just like the ac compressor shut off?

Check your ac belt and tensioner. The belt may be slipping under load.