Horrible noises and ride, HELP!

[Doubeleive]

Ok so if I’m unbolting the D bushings should I just replace them while they’re off anyways? and then pack them with grease? I’ll check motor mounts tomorrow and report back

not unless there torn up or fairly old, just grease slobber grease all over inside and on the bar shaft and slap it back together, while you are under there use a flashlight and look at everything real good, I had a mystery clunk once and it turned out one of the upper control arm bolts was loose just enough to slide up and down and it worn a egg shaped hole in the frame, it was hidden because of the washer the fix was to a weld a really fat washer on the end it worked fine because the bolt has plenty of thread.

 

[DaveLaz]

not unless there torn up or fairly old, just grease slobber grease all over inside and on the bar shaft and slap it back together, while you are under there use a flashlight and look at everything real good, I had a mystery clunk once and it turned out one of the upper control arm bolts was loose just enough to slide up and down and it worn a egg shaped hole in the frame, it was hidden because of the washer the fix was to a weld a really fat washer on the end it worked fine because the bolt has plenty of thread.

Copy that, thanks!

 

[DaveLaz]

Hey guys, quick update. I haven’t greased the sway bar mounts yet however I did unbolt the end links just to see how the susp would react to no sway bar at all. The harsh ride and clunk when taking off reduced however did not go away. I’ll be greasing up the mounts later and reattaching the links but I did notice something. The torsion bar fitting/knuckle in the LCAs seem unusually large. Picture fitting a 17mm socket on a 16mm head bolt. Is that normal for everyone or are the LCAs that they sent me not correct?

 

[Byoung1330]

Hi guys, I lowered my 2006 Yukon SLT 4WD on a crown suspension 2/4 kit that included spindles, rear coils, and shock extenders. I also installed DJM rear trailing arm relocators, proper sway bar end links, and belltech 9513 street performance shocks. When tearing it down I basically had to cut everything out so I ended up also replacing with new LCA’s, UCA’s (with camber adjustment capability) inner/outer tie rod ends, and sway bar end links. Here’s been my experience so far....


At first honestly it felt decent. Some clunks and noises here and there but I figured after settling and getting an alignment it would be better. Also the front wasn’t sitting low enough and I was still on OEM shocks so I figured it would get better after the new shocks came in and I wanted to add lowering keys.


Installed the shocks and I didn’t feel much of a difference but whatever. Got an alignment and it solved a little bit of clunking but the most noticeable one was by the driver side front wheel when taking off from a light.


Had a shop install my keys since I couldn’t get them out. Also had them install new crossmember bushings since I noticed those were shot. $700 in labor plus parts later...the clunk and horrible ride still existed. I ended up having to install one of the OEM keys back into the driver side because with the torsion bolt cranked all the way up, it still sat too low on that side.


This is where I am currently. After MULTIPLE times of lifting the truck, loosening all load points, sitting the truck down and re-torquing them to be sure I’m not missing anything, I’m still having this issue.


Notable mention, the ride is significantly better when first driving after lifting it because it hasn’t settled back down fully. After driving for about 5 miles it settles back down, ride is extremely rough, and that clunk when taking off comes right back in full force.


Guys I seriously need like an open forum of questions, ideas, places where I can drive the truck off a bridge etc.... TIA!

Was the clunk there before lowering? And I see u said u changed the Lca. Did u just do the ball joint or the whole arm? Also mine is a 04 tahoe with 3/6 drop. I had the same issue. Loud clunk. Sounded like it was from the middle or front somewhere. I finally found what mine was. When I put my drop spindles on (mcgaughys) I messed up my driver side lower ball joint. So replaced it. It was a pain to press new one in. So with having new ball joint on that side I wanted the other side new. Didn’t want to do the press thing again so I changed the whole lower arm with ball joint already installed. So after installing I started getting that loud clunk. I ended up replacing my whole front suspension just cuz I wanted it all new. Not cuz the clunk. I went with moog on everything except upper a arms. They are ac delco. Well when I messed that ball joint up I had got a cheap one put in it. I didn’t like that as they have a lot of load. So I ordered 2 ac delco ones. Pressed into my arm an then the other side that I had changed the whole arm I ended up pressing that new ball joint in my oem control arm an putting it back on an not using the new one I had installed. Clunk was gone. I think where the torsion bar went into the after market arm it had slop in it or something an it was the torsion bar clunking. Hasn’t done it since

 

[Byoung1330]

I think the after market arm hex slot that the torsion bar goes in was slightly bigger. It made it pop an make all kinds of sounds when braking or taking off.

 

[Rocket Man]

I don’t have much to add other than check the sway bar end links and maybe put jg on jack stands and pull the front wheels, then put a floor jack on each knuckle and run it up and down looking for sounds or signs of trouble. Also those Belltech shocks aren’t that great, should be running Bilstein’s.

 

[DaveLaz]

I think the after market arm hex slot that the torsion bar goes in was slightly bigger. It made it pop an make all kinds of sounds when braking or taking off.

I found a TSB on body mount insulators so I’ll be replacing those as soon as those come in. I’ll also be re-indexing the torsion bars as I noticed they are rotated counter-clockwise by one hex. If either of these don’t work I’ll be replacing the LCAs as a last resort. I appreciate your feedback, it gives me a little hope for my suspicions on the hex opening.

 

[DaveLaz]

I don’t have much to add other than check the sway bar end links and maybe put jg on jack stands and pull the front wheels, then put a floor jack on each knuckle and run it up and down looking for sounds or signs of trouble. Also those Belltech shocks aren’t that great, should be running Bilstein’s.

Unless the belltechs are filled with concrete, I highly doubt that’s the problem. The ride is unbearable honestly. And I don’t mind switching to Bilsteins in the future after I get it in a much better state.

 

[Rocket Man]

Unless the belltechs are filled with concrete, I highly doubt that’s the problem. The ride is unbearable honestly. And I don’t mind switching to Bilsteins in the future after I get it in a much better state.

Well hate to tell you but shocks are important to ride quality. The Bilsteins you need are the 4600’s. The rest of my answer stands as well. I mean, you came here asking for help, correct?

 

[Byoung1330]

I had belltech sp an didn’t like them. I run the bilstein 4600 now. They are long but compress a lot. They work great on my Tahoe as low as it is