just wondering where you connected your power to, the battery, or that power block towards the cab next to the battery. and also where did u ground it? directly to chassis, or to the neg terminal on the batt. let me know because i have purchased that same ddm kit and i am having issues with them turning off only for about a min on them being on. i connected to the battery post for the pos. and went directly to the chassis for the neg.
HID with DRL on Yukon
- Thread starter Erebos
- Start date
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lakaw
Member
Pos connected directly to battery. Neg connected to existing ground locations below the left and right lights (one ground each side). Easy to get to if you pull the front clip...
OklabyGodhoma
Full Access Member
Did the same. Red to + on battery and chassis ground under 10mm bolt around headlight assembly. Remember to get to bare metal at ground otherwise an effect known as ground potential rises dramatically. A dremel tool works great but so does a file or wire brush.....just get to bare metal. I always use some silicone grease as well.....stops any future corrosion and rust.
bauer4567
Full Access Member
2 of the bolts you remove to get under the optional battery tray have a good bare metal contact area. More importantly, if you remove that battery tray, there is an area near the center of the vehicle on the bottom of that optional battery tray which works great to mount the ballast out of sight... for the passenger's side, with the ballasts I had, there was BARELY enough room to mount that ballast underneath the "fender hole" in the stock air box. Hides them both pretty well.
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manzgator
TYF Newbie
Well boys, I finally pulled the trigger tonight. As clear as you all made it, I am anything but electrically savvy. Does this sound right?:
1) DDM - H13 Hi/Lo (chose 55w [+$10] and 5000K) = $75
2) SpencerHIDs - 25w ballasts (again, requested 5000K in the "comments" box as directed) = $100
Luckily I do have a buddy who is pretty good with this stuff and he is going to help with the install (using everyone's directions on this forum). I appreciate all of the contributions everyone. Thanks a bunch.
Steve
1) DDM - H13 Hi/Lo (chose 55w [+$10] and 5000K) = $75
2) SpencerHIDs - 25w ballasts (again, requested 5000K in the "comments" box as directed) = $100
Luckily I do have a buddy who is pretty good with this stuff and he is going to help with the install (using everyone's directions on this forum). I appreciate all of the contributions everyone. Thanks a bunch.
Steve
lakaw
Member
My HID fogs from SpencerHID, 25w ballasts with 5000k bulbs were $155. Make sure your not just ordering the ballasts.
Black Friday Yukon HID sale- Bixenon plug and play
Just saw a slickdeals notification that said Hidextra is going to run a black friday sale for 50% off. (www.hidextra.com) At that price I'm definitely giving it a shot, especially since there bixenon kits are plug an play. I don't have to mess with the relay or connect to the battery.
Just saw a slickdeals notification that said Hidextra is going to run a black friday sale for 50% off. (www.hidextra.com) At that price I'm definitely giving it a shot, especially since there bixenon kits are plug an play. I don't have to mess with the relay or connect to the battery.
manzgator
TYF Newbie
You're right. I didn't have the bulbs on there. Spencer actually emailed me about this as well. $150 for the kit is correct.
Does anyone have a pic of before and after conversion. I would love to see a before and after shot from the driver's seat to see the difference in lighting.... I am highly interested in the upgrade and would love to see a few shots....
manzgator
TYF Newbie
Okay, when trying to install my Hi/Lo bulbs there was an issue. After getting everything in place and connecting everything I was left with a disconnected wire. More specifically, the main cord that plugged into the old headlight no longer had anything to connect to with the DDM set in place. It is just hanging there and I expect that the power comes from the main part of the DDM kit. Does any of this make sense or is this crazy talk (which would mean that everything should have a male/female connection when complete)?
Thanks again.
Steve
Thanks again.
Steve
