Advice on snapped oil sender

[rad3309]

Hi all,

2012 Yukon XL Denal 6.2

Thought I'd come here for advice, maybe this has happened to someone on here.....

I tried replacing the oil sender unit today due to drops in oil pressure to 0. I used a swivel rachet attachment and an oil pressure unit socket along with a long 3/8 socket wrench. Unfortunately, while loosening it, the thread broke from the head of the bolt and now the thread is stuck inside the slot. I did this without removing the intake or anything else so there is very little room back there. I have never replaced this before on this truck, but the truck did get a new engine approximately 3 years ago because of a lifter failure related to the afm.

I don't have experience extracting bolts, but am decent at conducting research and trying things though. Hoping yall here would be familiar with the layout of this car and help me brainstorm some ideas to try.

The sending unit seems like a softer metal (aluminum?). Because of this, I was worried about using an easy off type thing which I read is better for hard metals. Considered a reverse drill, but the room is limited especially with intake still in place.

Thought about removing the intake and seeing how much more room that would give me to try out something.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[strutaeng]

The valley cover on the Gen IV engines is where the oil sender threads, at least on the L96 engine I'm building that's the case. On the previous Gen III engines the oil sender threads directly to the block (that would be a challenge if it was one of those engines!)

Anyways, just remove the intake and valley cover and try to extract the broken part as necessary on the bench. Worst case you just replace the valley cover.

 

[OR VietVet]

What @strutaeng said. Make room for the work by removing it and then use appropriate tool. I am not a fan of the reverse drill. I like the "feeling" of what is going on. Something along the lines of this design: https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Mu...utomotive+bolt+extractor+tool,aps,201&sr=8-40

 

[rad3309]

Hmm... yeah I have no idea if it's attached directly to the block or on the cover. Hoping the cover. Ill report back once I get that intake off.

 

[OR VietVet]

Hmm... yeah I have no idea if it's attached directly to the block or on the cover. Hoping the cover. Ill report back once I get that intake off.

If is in the cover, all the better, but if in the block, the extractor bit should have room after the cover is removed.

 

[OR VietVet]

Remember, any drilling you might do, can "insinuate" metal into the engine, depending on location.

 

[OR VietVet]

Come to think of it, I would also plug the hole with something and spray some penetrant on the threads and then let sit and then use the extractor. Unless of course, the broken threads are in the cover. If so, still use penetrant but of course, the hole blockage is not needed.

 

[strutaeng]

Here you go. Engine build still work-in-progress...

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

 

[Geotrash]

The sender is in the valley cover on his engine.

To the OP, removing the intake manifold is not difficult and the seals are reusable if they're in good shape. Once that's out of the way, you can remove the valley cover which also contains all of the solenoids and oil passageways for the AFM system. Since these solenoids and the seals in the oil passages can start leaking over time, they have been implicated in AFM system failures. Accordingly, it would be wise to replace that valley cover (also called the VLOM on AFM engines like yours), while you're in there. The added bonus is you'll no longer need to worry about getting the rest of the sender out of the old one.