Any updates after 5 days?
HELP-Check Engine Light Flashed 3 Times~~
- Thread starter Dropped HYbro
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Dropped HYbro
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took it to get the scan at autozone...no stored codes...no current codes...however...went to take her out for my 4 hour round trip to see the kids...after 2 hours in..stopped for a bite came out to continue....noticed a clanking sound..thought it was suspension...maybe a cracked rotor...or a bad driveline u joint...had my son walk beside the truck trying to pinpoint clacking....went about a mile or so....and the whole truck more violent than ive ever heard or felt a vehicle shake...
stopped completely...remember no check engine light..checked transmission dipstick...bright red...no sparkly shavings...engine oil clean light honey brown????
put it in reverse...backed up fine....neutral...forward and backwards no noise...put it into drive and the violent shake and almost felt like the teeth on a shaft broke off or grinded metal to metal.....im really bummed out...had to have it towed 100 miles home....going to bring down to the dealership ..trying to make the apt now...I mean this truck was in really good shape when I purchased it...all the service records for 100K...IM thinkin its the drive pump shaft or shaft that goes into the transmission...but by no means am I an expert....this hybrid doesn't have a torque converter.....man im bummed out...any thoughts on what it might be??
no slipping or long shifts...no burnt smell or fluid....this is literally a failure I cant understand....let me know your thoughts???
transmission might be bad but those transmission Aux pumps are known to fail..it will prevent the clutch plates from working .correctly
also the engine I/O shafts(input/output shaft) are known to fail
is it fine in EV mode? =
those are the mostly likely things to fail on the transmission other wise they were well overbuilt. esp the CVT portion of the transmission
did it work correctly in M4?
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Dropped HYbro
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was doing 85 on the freeway for two hours straight...no issues..trans never went above 165 degrees...I always drive in D...but after the first sounds of clanking began it all happened within a mile I put it in drive and start to give gas...the worst sound Ive ever heard from a vehicle...literally sounds like gear teeth ripping each other apart...called triple A and had it towed
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Can you tell if the sound is at the rear end or up under your butt more?
That feeling sucks. Sorry you’re going through this. Curious to know if it does it in electric only too. On the Tahoe does the electric motor and gas engine drive the trans at the same time? And electric turns off at 30 mph? I have no idea man but can the electric shaft go bad? Maybe why engine oil and tranny fluid is ok? I’m just tossing stuff out. Hope you get it solved.
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this came to mind after i was reading some stuff
this actually happened to me I thought the transmission was blown ( SUV refused to move and made nasty noises if it started moving)
that happened back in may...
i forgot what i did to fix it...
I would have the 12v battery checked out if you have not done that yet
if it's over 4 years old or less then 70% capacity i would put another one it
the hybrid is more depended on the 12v+ battery then the normal one....
there is 6 failure points to the ground system...
the one connected to the engine to the chassis is probably bad like mine you can see how dirty it is
If i remember how i fixed it i'll let you know
this actually happened to me I thought the transmission was blown ( SUV refused to move and made nasty noises if it started moving)
that happened back in may...
i forgot what i did to fix it...
I would have the 12v battery checked out if you have not done that yet
if it's over 4 years old or less then 70% capacity i would put another one it
the hybrid is more depended on the 12v+ battery then the normal one....
there is 6 failure points to the ground system...
the one connected to the engine to the chassis is probably bad like mine you can see how dirty it is
If i remember how i fixed it i'll let you know
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Dropped HYbro
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I would say right behind the driver seat...loud...I think im going to take a video of the sound today...still prepping to tow to the dealership...removing wheels etc, from past experiences with dealerships theyre good at what they do...but love to blame it on aftermarket accessories such as wheels,lowering kits....sound systems...I actually tried to start trouble shooting yesterday after I removed the wheels....I always drive in D...went to M1 took my foot off the brake to see if it would coast in electric mode...the sound was so loud I shut it down as quick as I could...and no movement.
how could this happen...motor is really healthy...plenty of power....the transmission never even shifted hard...bright fluid no sparkly flakes of metal....many service records and only a 115K...when I talked to a guy at AMOCO TRANSMNISSIONS yesterday to see if they had experience with Yukon hybrids...and told him its a 4l60...immediately started talking about the input/output shafts and that they break all the time????........really bummed out on this!
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Dropped HYbro
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its a red top optima...diagnostics on dash read 14-15V....battery is a year old according to the receipts from the guy I purchased the truck from...I did just reinstall it after I upgraded the headlights this weekend to LED...had to remove the air raid system for one side...then the battery and take apart the grill and front fascia for the drivers side....im praying its not the shaft/transmission....this truck literally doesn't even have door dings...no rips or tears on the interior....looks like the little old lady from Pasadena use to own it...that's why I bought it!!!
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I think his engine idles fine. since it’s behind the driver seat couldn’t that be the electric motor? As mentioned never worked on one of these but they connect to the trans via a shaft I’m guessing. Could that be broken/stuck/etc? You’re right not to move it and make it worse though I wonder if you roll it in neutral do you hear anything?
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Dropped HYbro
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I want to say thanks to everybody for showing concern....I know I'm being a big baby about my truck...I just really like this hybrid that much....so the basics...the engine starts up just fine...sounds smooth...no ticking sounds...like I said previously...plenty of power even shifted like a brand new truck on all my trips!!!
I had to put it in neutral to get it on the tow truck....would NOT let the tow truck driver even try to drive up the ramp...I went to the M1 setting...like I said I always use D when driving in the city or highway....I started to take my foot off the brake and once again the violent noise of literally like a splined shaft was breaking every tooth off at once.....did not move forward at all...threw it in park and shut her down...I think your on to something with the electric motors having shafts that engage and disengage....dealer is going to charge me $139 for a full diagnosis...then I can see what I'm up against.I just need to finish taking the back rims off tonight.
the thing I cant get over is...literally you know that "new" car feeling every time you drive a well maintained vehicle...u know NO hesitation to drive across the country..this was that vehicle...the only real worry was not having a spare and trying to find a 28" tire on a whim.....Im blown away....or should I say pretty bummed out...I can always finance the repairs...just hate the idea of being presented with a huge bill that I didn't forsee....
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Dropped HYbro
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good morning...engine purrs like a kitten...in park...I can give it gas and hear everything sounds right...literally not anything noticeable..not even the usual "chevy tick" of lifters....I have reverse...no noticeable sounds although I only checked a few inches in reverse...trying not to do anymore damage than already has been done...its just put in drive and the worst sound/clacking I've ever heard..my guess at this point is somekind of shaft or splined part is destroyed.
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Dropped HYbro
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wise words steven...ill update everything after I get it down to the dealer...if I don't pass out from repair cost shock
but thanks for the heads up....im going to try and get the longest warranty with the repairs so it doesn't sting as much...and yes inquire within reason of any other additional things while their in there
does it show it charging when in park.. on the screen? does it go into auto stop after a few min of running? having you tried driving in auto stop(EV)
I had a scare tonight but I think it was because I shifted out park too fast(stalled out) I forgot about that.. (yes the car has to start before then it will fully start, you cant take it out of gear before the start sequence other wise it stalls out or drives crappy or noises.
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Dropped HYbro
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so an update..took truck to dealership Saturday...had to use a wheel loader so they wouldn't drag it up the flatbed...back wheels all locked up...they called me yesterday ..Monday...theyre telling me that the rear end differential is completely done...shot out...and in need of total replacement...new ring and pinion....bushings...everything inside the pumpkin....they are quoting me $700-$900 for parts and $1400-$1600 for labor...according to the service writer...it is 12 hour flag time for total tear down and rebuild....I think this is overpriced to say the least.So I asked a few questions before I authorize any work:
1.I want to replace the original 3.08 ring and pinion with a 3.73 ring and pinion- Can this be done with our Hybrids...keeping in mind the degenerative braking system where our batteries charge(reason- my wheel and tire combo is 33.81" tall...a little over 2" taller than stock wheel/tires)???
2.All the research and websites that Ive found say 5-8 hours flag time- from start to finish...total tear down and rebuild
why are they stating that it takes 12 hours labor for total tear down/rebuild???
3.will they calibrate the speedometer and transmission to the new gear ratio using theyre software or "tech2"'s??
4. they offered a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty for the rebuild services....what do you guys think??
5.Is there anything else I should have them do if I move forward with this rebuild while they have my truck service wise??
I know I could get this job done for less $$$....I am going to the dealership to try and negotiate with them today in regards to pricing....the facts are the truck is there and it needs repair....I just don't want to get soaked by the dealership...I am not confident enough in doing this repair myself...though I do know a little about rear end differential its lack of expeience actually putting them in....plus I get the guarantee and peace of mind if anything happens the work is warrantied and guaranteed!
all responses and comments are welcome and really appreciated
That would be the most expensive differential I’ve heard of. Call around for some quotes. The cost of towing will be easily saved in the repair bill.
