Help! Brakes squeak exactly the same after being replaced.

[nick0789]

I haven’t been under a GMT900 in a while, but in my GMT800 I chased down a creak/squeak at low speeds for the longest time (only really noticed when I was in the drive thru at the pharmacy and could hear the noise bounce off the wall, now that’s all I hear).
Ultimately found that the parking brake cable is rubbing in one of those metal loops / hangers that routes it under the rear axle when I pushed on the brake pedal. I put some lithium grease on the parking brake cable and loop and it quieted down. It lasted all of a week so I need a more permanent solution.

If yours makes noise when you push harder on pedal, while stopped, it may be worth just taking a quick look at the parking brake cables.


Either way, I feel your pain. Hopefully you can get it sorted out soon.

 

[YanaCakes]

I would say the same. Are you sure they are GMC pads?? Sounds like too much metal in the pads. They will chew the rotor to death.

I will have to check. I know they are aftermarket, not genuine but good quality.

 

[YanaCakes]

I haven’t been under a GMT900 in a while, but in my GMT800 I chased down a creak/squeak at low speeds for the longest time (only really noticed when I was in the drive thru at the pharmacy and could hear the noise bounce off the wall, now that’s all I hear).
Ultimately found that the parking brake cable is rubbing in one of those metal loops / hangers that routes it under the rear axle when I pushed on the brake pedal. I put some lithium grease on the parking brake cable and loop and it quieted down. It lasted all of a week so I need a more permanent solution.

If yours makes noise when you push harder on pedal, while stopped, it may be worth just taking a quick look at the parking brake cables.


Either way, I feel your pain. Hopefully you can get it sorted out soon.

Agh, I’m definitely going to look at it tomorrow. Its ear piercing, no?

 

[NELLY1947]

I will have to check. I know they are aftermarket, not genuine but good quality.

The problem is long lasting doesn't mean good quality. IMO. pads with a lot of metal will supposedly last longer unless you do some heavy braking and they start chewing the rotors. Then they will start vibrating/ shuttering when u touch the brakes. It's ok to use aftermarket rotors but not pads unless ceramic. But they are $$$$.

 

[YanaCakes]

The problem is long lasting doesn't mean good quality. IMO. pads with a lot of metal will supposedly last longer unless you do some heavy braking and they start chewing the rotors. Then they will start vibrating/ shuttering when u touch the brakes. It's ok to use aftermarket rotors but not pads unless ceramic. But they are $$$$.

Thank you for your advise!

 

[Foggy]

Check your rotor/disc dust shields... Sometimes they get a little wonky
when doing brakes and will just barely rub on the rotor on the inside...
Usually it will self clearance after some miles.. but it is a horrible noise
I've had to go back and straighten them out more than once after doing a
brake job

 

[YanaCakes]

Check your rotor/disc dust shields... Sometimes they get a little wonky
when doing brakes and will just barely rub on the rotor on the inside...
Usually it will self clearance after some miles.. but it is a horrible noise
I've had to go back and straighten them out more than once after doing a
brake job

Thank you! I plan on checking the brakes this week and I'll pay attention to the dust shield, cleaning everything, resurface the rotors and make sure the pads are good. The brakes have so much life to them, I don't want to replace them just yet. But I got new hardware, anti seize for contact points, etc.

 

[Fless]

Do everyone who works on that a favor and skip the anti-seize. There are better lubricants than that for contact points.

 

[wjburken]

Do everyone who works on that a favor and skip the anti-seize. There are better lubricants than that for contact points.

You mean things like brake caliper grease?

 

[Foggy]

You mean things like brake caliper grease?

YES YES YES ... Brush top bottle ... green, purple, blue... all good choices..
AntiSieze sucks on brake caliper pins/sliders and on the edges of the mounting ears.
it's so messy and really bad to get on the pads / rotors/ your fing hands !!!

 

[wjburken]

YES YES YES ... Brush top bottle ... green, purple, blue... all good choices..
AntiSieze sucks on brake caliper pins/sliders and on the edges of the mounting ears.
it's so messy and really bad to get on the pads / rotors/ your fing hands !!!

 

[YanaCakes]

Do everyone who works on that a favor and skip the anti-seize. There are better lubricants than that for contact points.

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

As mentioned, a little strategically/judiciously -- not overdone -- placed caliper grease (or Sil-glyde) on the piston faces, and the backs of the pads where they may contact the bracket ears might just relieve the vibration. Don't be tempted to lube the sides of the abutment clips that contact the pad ears; the pads should slide easily enough on the stainless clips. But you can lube underneath the clips (on the caliper bracket) to keep the rust jacking at bay if you're in the rust belt.

Also, if the slide pins have (or had) rubber sleeves on one, they may have been removed and not replaced. But I don't think these particular caliper pins call for those rubber parts. YMMV

Learn something new every single day of my life! Ive always applied grease to the grove the pads slide in....so I just naturally applied it to the stainless surface of these clips. Prob not a big deal unless you spend a lot of time Off-Road and/or don't regularly clean and replace said grease. What the odds said grease is the reason my 16 month old R rear is not fully releasing??

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I had cheap ceramic brakes squeal on me pretty bad. Make sure the calipers are actuating correctly