Dragging front brake even after replaced the caliper

[TomH91]

I’m at my wits end with the brakes on my 2009 Yukon XL. A few weeks back I put on new Hawk pads and Stop Tech slotted rotors. The truck stops great and I love the improvement in stopping power and feel. It also stops true, no pulling to one side at all. But…the driver’s side front brake drags. The left wheel gets a good coat of brake dust after a week or so.

When I did the brakes I greased the slide pins, brake pad ears, and the pad clips. When I noticed the drag, I took everything apart and re-greased it all. But it still dragged so I put on a reman caliper. It still dragged. So I took the passenger side apart again to make sure I hadn’t over-greased the slide pin or greased the tip of the pin, keeping the right side brake form applying as hard as the left. The left caliper still drags.

The truck stops and tracks straight. But I confirmed it’s still dragging with an infrared thermometer in addition to observing the amount of brake dust.

Should I try replacing the brake hose? I hate to throw in the towel and pay a shop for something that should be DIY-able. What have I missed?

 

[kbit]

Replace the rubber brake lines.

 

[justchecking]

I’m at my wits end with the brakes on my 2009 Yukon XL. A few weeks back I put on new Hawk pads and Stop Tech slotted rotors. The truck stops great and I love the improvement in stopping power and feel. It also stops true, no pulling to one side at all. But…the driver’s side front brake drags. The left wheel gets a good coat of brake dust after a week or so.

When I did the brakes I greased the slide pins, brake pad ears, and the pad clips. When I noticed the drag, I took everything apart and re-greased it all. But it still dragged so I put on a reman caliper. It still dragged. So I took the passenger side apart again to make sure I hadn’t over-greased the slide pin or greased the tip of the pin, keeping the right side brake form applying as hard as the left. The left caliper still drags.

The truck stops and tracks straight. But I confirmed it’s still dragging with an infrared thermometer in addition to observing the amount of brake dust.

Should I try replacing the brake hose? I hate to throw in the towel and pay a shop for something that should be DIY-able. What have I missed?

Sounds crazy but I have had two cars where the brake hose deteriorated on the inside, swelled, and caused brake dragging. If you replace, replace both sides.

 

[tom3]

See this a lot on older Chevys with a bracket at the mid point of the hose, could be this for sure.

 

[iamdub]

+1 for brake hose and for replacing both.

 

[OR VietVet]

As has been said, do the brake hoses at the front but I would also do the rear brake hoses. Same age, right?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I agree with replacing the brake hose, also make sure that the new caliper has the bleeder above where the brake hose attaches. Sometimes the parts store will give you the wrong side caliper and it will fit to install but you'll never get it to bleed right.

Prepare for more brake bleeding posts lol

 

[TomH91]

Thanks for the replies. I picked up the hoses today.

 

[OR VietVet]

Just the front hoses?

 

[Just Fishing]

Adding the ++replace the hose.

Last vehicle that this happened with (07 Jeep Wrangler), I also went for a caliper seal kit (rebuild kit) due to unknown history stuff.
+ when doing the pads I saw signs of some brake fluid coming from the caliper dust boot when bleeding the air out of it...

 

[TomH91]

I put front hoses on it and bled the front brakes again. Stops great but the left rotor still gets hotter than the right. Remember, the LF caliper is a new reman. The last thing I can think of is maybe the piston on the RF caliper is sticky. It’s the only thing up front that isn’t new.

 

[Geotrash]

I put front hoses on it and bled the front brakes again. Stops great but the left rotor still gets hotter than the right. Remember, the LF caliper is a new reman. The last thing I can think of is maybe the piston on the RF caliper is sticky. It’s the only thing up front that isn’t new.

Could also be a bad reman. Wouldn’t be the first time.

 

[Doubeleive]

get a set of these, they have worked great for me

 

[OR VietVet]

I put front hoses on it and bled the front brakes again. Stops great but the left rotor still gets hotter than the right. Remember, the LF caliper is a new reman. The last thing I can think of is maybe the piston on the RF caliper is sticky. It’s the only thing up front that isn’t new.

So, you replaced just one caliper and not both? Should always be done in pairs.

 

[Trey Hardy]

I agree with replacing the brake hose, also make sure that the new caliper has the bleeder above where the brake hose attaches. Sometimes the parts store will give you the wrong side caliper and it will fit to install but you'll never get it to bleed right.

Prepare for more brake bleeding posts lol

Haha I’ve done this I bled one side my buddy done the other we couldn’t ever get the air out well I went over to it to bleed it myself couldn’t ever get the air out took a closer look and realized I put a drive caliper on the passenger side! Oooff lmao ******* moment
When I did new hoses I did some stainless braided ones I believe they were rough country’s

 

[Sombat]

I’m at my wits end with the brakes on my 2009 Yukon XL. A few weeks back I put on new Hawk pads and Stop Tech slotted rotors. The truck stops great and I love the improvement in stopping power and feel. It also stops true, no pulling to one side at all. But…the driver’s side front brake drags. The left wheel gets a good coat of brake dust after a week or so.

When I did the brakes I greased the slide pins, brake pad ears, and the pad clips. When I noticed the drag, I took everything apart and re-greased it all. But it still dragged so I put on a reman caliper. It still dragged. So I took the passenger side apart again to make sure I hadn’t over-greased the slide pin or greased the tip of the pin, keeping the right side brake form applying as hard as the left. The left caliper still drags.

The truck stops and tracks straight. But I confirmed it’s still dragging with an infrared thermometer in addition to observing the amount of brake dust.

Should I try replacing the brake hose? I hate to throw in the towel and pay a shop for something that should be DIY-able. What have I missed?

On those reman calipers, make sure the bolt on the brake line hose line up so the brake fluid goes into the calipers properly. It occurs when you tighten the bolt to the brake line into the caliper itself. You’ll see what I’m talking about when you look at the bolt for the brake line.

If not that, I replace both of my front speed sensor and no more locking up or dragging for me. I was out of commission for a few months thinking it was my abs booster. Hope this helps.