Heater Hose "T"

[Fless]

@5strmtrp Look at the links in this post that @89Suburban wrote. Same thread as this one.

Heater Hose "T"

Wasn't sure where to post this. Our '05 Tahoe has sprung a leak. Its coming from the white "T". I did get a new GM "T". Any advice on getting these off. I realize they have clips you squeeze, but me and GM don't have a good history with these clips. I know many people fail with these because...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[5strmtrp]

Yup did after I sent the post. Ordered them last night.

 

[ScottyBoy]

I've never had good luck getting those clips to release, even with the proper release tool. The problem is that it's SO close to the firewall, that you don't have any room to get the tool situated behind it to get it up under the fitting. I've actually had better results just cutting the bad of off piece by piece with some wire cutters or flush cutters. Just be careful not to damage or heavily scratch/gouge the heater core pipe.

 

[Blk00ss]

The tool you're referring to I assume is the same as the fule line tool? MMost people haven't been able to use that tool with these coolant lines. Mine were not hard to remove at all. Push in, squeeze tabs, I even twisted a bit, and they came right off. Both of them, and that was at over 170K

 

[BatsTDK]

The tool you're referring to I assume is the same as the fule line tool? MMost people haven't been able to use that tool with these coolant lines. Mine were not hard to remove at all. Push in, squeeze tabs, I even twisted a bit, and they came right off. Both of them, and that was at over 170K

Probably because they were about 5 minutes away from crumbling to bits

 

[Blk00ss]

Probably because they were about 5 minutes away from crumbling to bits

Actually they came out whole and not brittle at all. In fact I still have them. It was the crummy o rings inside that failed.

 

[BatsTDK]

Actually they came out whole and not brittle. In fact I still have them. It was the crummy o rings inside that failed.

Lucky you. Either way with that mileage you were on borrowed time.

 

[Rolexus]

Thank you Blk00ss for posting this, and thanks to all who have sent in replies to this issue. I’ve suspected this leak ‘problem’ for a while now, it just isn’t consistent - flares up with very minimal fluid lose but can smell A-Freeze, and then goes away for a month or two, then reappears.

I’ll have a coolant pressure test done on my ‘05 - see if it will pinpoint exact location. There are no obvious leaks or visible wetness in the engine bay ‘anywhere’ only a slight smell. Have had it in for thermostat replacement, fluid flush, hoses check - NADA.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The tool you're referring to I assume is the same as the fule line tool? MMost people haven't been able to use that tool with these coolant lines. Mine were not hard to remove at all. Push in, squeeze tabs, I even twisted a bit, and they came right off. Both of them, and that was at over 170K

That's the key, pushing in before squeezing the tabs.

 

[Rocket Man]

I found if you squeeze the tabs and then twist the t, it will hold the tabs in and you can pull it off. You might have to twist back and forth a few times.

 

[Blk00ss]

You're both correct. I squeezed, pushed in towards firewall, twist a little and they literally came right off. We did this repair around the 170K mark. I was actually dreading this job, but was amazed and relieved how easy they came off.

 

[Rocket Man]

You're both correct. I squeezed, pushed in towards firewall, twist a little and they literally came right off. We did this repair around the 170K mark. I was actually dreading this job, but was amazed and relieved how easy they came off.

I actually figured this out using a new t connector and an old male end, messing around with them on my workbench. I noticed if I squeezed the tabs and then turned the t, those tabs magically stayed indented. Then all I had to do was pull.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I actually figured this out using a new t connector and an old male end, messing around with them on my workbench. I noticed if I squeezed the tabs and then turned the t, those tabs magically stayed indented. Then all I had to do was pull.

That would have been really nice to know last year, when one on my heater hoses tore itself off from the fitting. Hopefully, I'll never get an opportunity to try this method.

 

[oldchev]

I need to do this. I have the rear heat so need the T fittings and have those GM numbers. I am trying to get the proper heater hoses from pump and reservoir tank also (besides radiator hoses). May as well get them all at once. After new trans last week noticed a larger coolank leak towards front of engine. Maybe coincidence, thinking water pump (again). don't realy see anything yet. Regardless 2004 Yukon Denali. Part numbers for heaters hoses anyone?

 

[Rocket Man]

I need to do this. I have the rear heat so need the T fittings and have those GM numbers. I am trying to get the proper heater hoses from pump and reservoir tank also (besides radiator hoses). May as well get them all at once. After new trans last week noticed a larger coolank leak towards front of engine. Maybe coincidence, thinking water pump (again). don't realy see anything yet. Regardless 2004 Yukon Denali. Part numbers for heaters hoses anyone?

If you have the in-radiator trans cooler make 100% sure of your radiator’s age since you just replaced that trans. It’s not super common for those to leak inside the radiator which results in coolant getting mixed in with your trans fluid which will destroy your new trans quickly but it is known to happen especially in a high-mileage truck. I replaced my radiator at 150k with a new OEM one just because of this possibility. Just a heads up, you wouldn’t want to replace that again I’m sure.

 

[Rolexus]

Hi All! After reading all threads (some a few times…) I replaced the dreaded T’s this aft. Pretty much as described - the white (in-going to heater core) was easiest to remove. Started at the firewall connection by first pushing in, then depress ‘tabs’ while pulling. Then started with outgoing to rear, and finally feed tube. Decided to cut hose and use new in-feed adapter (AC Delco) with hose clamp.

Other T (black, outgoing from firewall) was a hug PITAss! One tab by firewall was non-existent, so had to gently cut and pry the housing loose with sidecutters and screwdriver... no room to work! Eventually able to remove T housing fromp firewall exit (alum tube). Then disconnected inflow from rear and tube that outflows back to block. Also, cut hose and inserted new out-feed adapter with hose clamp.

Cleaned at existing alum hoses, then reassembled - used a very slight amount of lube (drop of brake fluid - old trick from a mechanic friend) on all alum feed tubes, got a “click” from all hose reconnections.

topped up the antifreeze/coolant in reservoir, Test drive for ~10 kms - and ALL IS GOOD!
no more tinge of antifreeze smell when parking in garage, no slight leak on white T, and nothing dribbling onto garage floor.

again, thanks to all for helping to describe in detail so well! All worked well, and all is good! Cheers, D

 

[89Suburban]

Hi All! After reading all threads (some a few times…) I replaced the dreaded T’s this aft. Pretty much as described - the white (in-going to heater core) was easiest to remove. Started at the firewall connection by first pushing in, then depress ‘tabs’ while pulling. Then started with outgoing to rear, and finally feed tube. Decided to cut hose and use new in-feed adapter (AC Delco) with hose clamp.

Other T (black, outgoing from firewall) was a hug PITAss! One tab by firewall was non-existent, so had to gently cut and pry the housing loose with sidecutters and screwdriver... no room to work! Eventually able to remove T housing fromp firewall exit (alum tube). Then disconnected inflow from rear and tube that outflows back to block. Also, cut hose and inserted new out-feed adapter with hose clamp.

Cleaned at existing alum hoses, then reassembled - used a very slight amount of lube (drop of brake fluid - old trick from a mechanic friend) on all alum feed tubes, got a “click” from all hose reconnections.

topped up the antifreeze/coolant in reservoir, Test drive for ~10 kms - and ALL IS GOOD!
no more tinge of antifreeze smell when parking in garage, no slight leak on white T, and nothing dribbling onto garage floor.

again, thanks to all for helping to describe in detail so well! All worked well, and all is good! Cheers, D

Great job!

 

[Rolexus]

Great job!

Thanks! I tend to over-explain the process. Seems obvious and simple, but some of us members like to see it spelled out in detail (Minimize any surprises)

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

I did both of mine at 170k - used from dealer oem parts along with new hoses/etc.
It was a bear to get the fittings off - fingers will not be the same.
Later I though of using a hose clamp to push down the clips.

 

[Rolexus]

I did both of mine at 170k - used from dealer oem parts along with new hoses/etc.
It was a bear to get the fittings off - fingers will not be the same.
Later I though of using a hose clamp to push down the clips.

Yea, I tried to use mini vice grips (set quite loosely on the clips), Worked to depress clips, but had best results was using fingers only. Mine went at 178k miles (seems about par for the course, mileage wise).