Heater Hose - Aluminum Parts Upgrade

[Yukon_driver]

So just to be clear, I need to order one each of the tee's and 2 of the connectors?

Yes one of each tee and two of the same connectors

 

[Yukon_driver]

If your factory quick connectors are in working condition, you don't NEED the 2 connectors. I had one of the quick connectors that seemingly had broken in the past(before I got it) as it wasn't there and had a spring clamp on the hose. On that side I used the 800-403hp connector, and had to switch to a worm gear clamp as the spring clamp would leak after the vehicle was off for about an hour. The other quick connector was still intact so I didn't use the 800-403hp connector on that one, just clipped it onto the T-fitting.

Yes this is a very good point, I ran mine like that for a while too.

 

[Yukon_driver]

Also guys, it is easier to get the T connectors on if you slide both of the metal lines in at the same time. It's harder to get them together if you try to put one of the metal lines in at a time. (not the rubber hose with or without the adapter, that one is easy).

See what I'm talking about below:
(this pic was taken after 1000 miles, so you can see it is not leaking)

 

[BlackSUV]

Iamdub/Chris installed them and texted me the photos and info. I don't think he did that adaptor though. I have not seen that piece before in metal.

Links to the metal tee pics:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/the-what-you-up-to-thread.54016/page-7975#post-1947494

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/the-what-you-up-to-thread.54016/page-7976

Hi Tonyrodz. I tried to open those links to the metal heater core line pieces. But the site says I don't have permission. Will you help me with that?

 

[Fless]

Hi Tonyrodz. I tried to open those links to the metal heater core line pieces. But the site says I don't have permission. Will you help me with that?

That was not @Tonyrodz, it was @89Suburban. But you're right, those links were not correct.

See the post below and the Dorman part numbers are in there. Use your internet search to find vendors.

Heater Hose - Aluminum Parts Upgrade

Has anyone replaced the plastic hose connections on the firewall with metal aftermarket parts? Specifically the Dorman T connector and the Dorman 800-409 adapter? I attached pictures of these parts below for your reference. I have ordered these parts because I want to minimize the risk of...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[89Suburban]

That was not @Tonyrodz, it was @89Suburban. But you're right, those links were not correct.

See the post below and the Dorman part numbers are in there. Use your internet search to find vendors.

Heater Hose - Aluminum Parts Upgrade

Has anyone replaced the plastic hose connections on the firewall with metal aftermarket parts? Specifically the Dorman T connector and the Dorman 800-409 adapter? I attached pictures of these parts below for your reference. I have ordered these parts because I want to minimize the risk of...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

And it was giveth to me by Sir @iamdub

 

[Fless]

And it was giveth to me by Sir @iamdub

Shame on you for trusting but not verifying.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

If you had one of those split, it's probably time to tackle the rear heater hoses behind the right rear wheel. Nobody really looks at them because they're pretty much out of sight. Just like the oil cooler lines, they're available from GM as a complete line set with the rubber section crimped on.... Alternatively, you can cut the crimps off and use the hose clamp of your choice and just replace the flexible hose. If you drop the spare tire, you have access to cut the original crimp off, or simply cut the metal pipe and use a compression fitting to convert to a hose barb in a more convenient spot. The 90° elbow off the bottom of the heater core..... It's a 3/4 quick disconnect x 5/8 hose barb.... I've only found them available by Dorman.

Above the spare tire
View attachment 459266
And behind the rear passenger tire
View attachment 459267

Those 90° fittings can be found here:

Dorman Heater Hose Connector https://a.co/d/a0fmrD0

And The originals removed at 170,000 miles
View attachment 459268

The hoses themselves and the original 90° fittings are exposed to whatever gets thrown up by the rear tire, as well as heat from the exhaust. So yeah, if you have a t connector on the firewall which is protected from road spray finally get brittle and break, you might want to pay attention to these ones as well.

If you go the route I did with a compression fitting on the original pipe, that pipe is 1/2 inch outside diameter.

After dropping the spare tire, here's what you're looking at. The two crimped hoses closest to the camera that look like they've been sleeping are the heater hoses. You can carefully cut the crimps off, and there's a hose barb under there. Or simply cut it off a little shorter and have more room to work with for future replacement.

View attachment 459269

View attachment 459270

View attachment 459271

View attachment 459272

This is all you need, in addition to 5/8 heater hose.... I used silicone heater hose for this.... And hose clamps of your choice. I prefer the oetiker clamps.

View attachment 459273

Rdezs - Awesome modification! Where did you get these aluminum fittings at? (what they are called?) Correct to assume they are 5/8"? Would love to order them and do this too. Thanks!

 

[rdezs]

Rdezs - Awesome modification! Where did you get these aluminum fittings at? (what they are called?) Correct to assume they are 5/8"? Would love to order them and do this too. Thanks!

Everything was available on Amazon. For the metal heater hose pipe, you want the 1/2"compression fitting to AN 8 male..... Then a AN8 female to 5/8 hose barb.

In my previous post I put the link for the 90° quick disconnect. It's a 3/4"quick disconnect x 5/8 hose barb.

And you can use regular hose clamps, or spring clamps. I just prefer the crimp on Oetiker clamps.

I do something similar with the oil cooler lines from the engine, as well as the transmission cooler lines where they are flexible. If you carefully remove the OEM crimp at each end, you'll be looking at a hose barb. I convert them over to AN fittings. Very convenient on the transmission lines to change your fluid. Just disconnect the return line at the fitting..... I have a piece of 6 ft clear hose with a AN fitting where I put the other end in a bucket. Then you can briefly start the engine, when you get about a gallon out turn it off. Add a gallon of transmission fluid. Repeat two or three times till everything you get out is new fluid.

 

[KC 2013 Tahoe]

Everything was available on Amazon. For the metal heater hose pipe, you want the 1/2"compression fitting to AN 8 male..... Then a AN8 female to 5/8 hose barb.

In my previous post I put the link for the 90° quick disconnect. It's a 3/4"quick disconnect x 5/8 hose barb.

And you can use regular hose clamps, or spring clamps. I just prefer the crimp on Oetiker clamps.

I do something similar with the oil cooler lines from the engine, as well as the transmission cooler lines where they are flexible. If you carefully remove the OEM crimp at each end, you'll be looking at a hose barb. I convert them over to AN fittings. Very convenient on the transmission lines to change your fluid. Just disconnect the return line at the fitting..... I have a piece of 6 ft clear hose with a AN fitting where I put the other end in a bucket. Then you can briefly start the engine, when you get about a gallon out turn it off. Add a gallon of transmission fluid. Repeat two or three times till everything you get out is new fluid.

Thanks so much! Have never used AN fittings before, so the sizes and such are all Greek to me, but really like your setup. Already have ordered the two 90° Dorman elbows and 5' of Continental blue (high temp) 5/8" heater hose. Also ordered the two Dorman metal front heater tees -414HP and -413HP, plus the straight fitting too.

 

[rdezs]

Oops, my error. AN10 instead of AN8

 

[rdezs]

 

[alvocado]

The automotive fittings are a great retrofit, especially for ease of serviceability.

For the rear heat connection, instead of using the Dorman connectors, I assume there is a barb on that end after carefully cutting off the metal crimp to allow connecting a 90 degree heater house with step clamps? That would allow eliminating plastic quick connects with a potentially longer lasting option.

 

[rdezs]

Yes, but it's a 3/4 inch fitting that comes down from the heater core. The quick connects downsize it to 5/8. Also, you'd want to go with a preformed 90° in a hose so it's not hanging down too low to catch even more road debris thrown up from the rear tire. I'm not a big fan of Dorman products, but theirs was the only 90° quick disconnect I could find that went from 3/4 inch quick disconnect to 5/8 hose barb.

 

[alvocado]

Ah yes, the size transition is definitely the challenge with going direct to hose.

 

[rdezs]

I was originally looking for a three or four foot long piece of 5/8 heater hose, with a pre-molded 90° at one end that was expanded to 3/4 in. Never could find it. And I definitely didn't want to have to put an inline reducer with a couple more clamps.

 

[alvocado]

I stumbled on this which looked great until I called PPE and confirmed it's 5/8" on both ends. If it was a reducer elbow, it would have been the ideal fitting.

2007.5-2024 Dodge/RAM 6.7L Cummins / 2017-2019 GM 6.6L Duramax - Heater Hose Connector

Dodge Duramax Heater Hose Connector Dodge/Ram 7.5-24, 17-19 GM 6.6L, replacement for OEM HVAC heater hose connectors, Stainless Steel Heater Hose Connector, provides durability, corrosion resistance

ppepower.com

 

[rdezs]

I even had the Napa guy search his catalog.... You wouldn't think of 5/8 hose with a 90° elbow at 3/4 inch ID would be that difficult to find....

 

[rdezs]

LOL, you're going through all the leg work I did before I finally settled on using the Dorman brand quick disconnects.

I know with the tee fitting at the firewall the aftermarket ones don't hold up as well as genuine GM.... Which I'm 99% sure is due to the heat from the exhaust manifold. Not really a problem there behind the back tire. I don't anticipate having issues with a getting brittle from heat. Like you, I would rather not have the quick disconnects... And if the correct hose ever showed up, I would likely swap to it anyway. Good old fashioned heater hoses with hose clamps have been around for decades without issue.... There's a lot to be said for keeping it simple.

 

[alvocado]

Trying to tackle the rear after finding one line leaking. I had to break the upper fitting off because it wouldn’t budge. I’m not sure which of the remaining pieces on the 3/4” pipe are supposed to remain. The white plastic on top looks like remnant retaining clip but is the black ring part of the pipe that holds the new fitting?