Heater Hose "T"

[oldchev]

If you have the in-radiator trans cooler make 100% sure of your radiator’s age since you just replaced that trans. It’s not super common for those to leak inside the radiator which results in coolant getting mixed in with your trans fluid which will destroy your new trans quickly but it is known to happen especially in a high-mileage truck. I replaced my radiator at 150k with a new OEM one just because of this possibility. Just a heads up, you wouldn’t want to replace that again I’m sure.

Good advice, however on 3rd radiator so far. Newest is 4 years. Seems radiators experiance O ring leaks at cooler lines. Various seeping issues elsewhere. For me, whether radiator or water pump or both, everything gets changed. Belts, hoses, T stat, coolant. Maybe overkill, but for the extra dollars = peace of mind. BTW, now needing 4th water pump. 60-80K or 4 years which ever, then leaks. Hence, replace it all. Try to keep all OEM GM.
Trans shop pressure tested trans cooling system, and flushed cooler lines, new converter, etc. 18K warranty.

 

[MassHoe04]

Good advice, however on 3rd radiator so far. Newest is 4 years. Seems radiators experiance O ring leaks at cooler lines. Various seeping issues elsewhere. For me, whether radiator or water pump or both, everything gets changed. Belts, hoses, T stat, coolant. Maybe overkill, but for the extra dollars = peace of mind. BTW, now needing 4th water pump. 60-80K or 4 years which ever, then leaks. Hence, replace it all. Try to keep all OEM GM.
Trans shop pressure tested trans cooling system, and flushed cooler lines, new converter, etc. 18K warranty.

Just FYI for future readers...

I'm all for GM part when possible. But for water pumps, I have high confidence in Gates as an alternative replacement pump. I have never had a Gates replacement fail on any vehicles I used them on after install.
Fit, function, durability. Never an issue from my own experience with them.

GM may price may be a consideration for some on tight budgets. Gates can often be found in local parts stores same or next day delivery. They are usually little less expensive than GM and should perform just fine.

For radiator, if time is not an issue, I would order GM original from Rock Auto. I got one for my 05 Jeep and it was legit GM part. Cheaper than dealer costs. If an emergency and you can't afford or wait to get a GM radiator, then do what ya gotta do. If at all possible, though, GM would be best choice for radiator. Aftermarket choices I might consider: Denso or TYC.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just FYI for future readers...

I'm all for GM part when possible. But for water pumps, I have high confidence in Gates as an alternative replacement pump. I have never had a Gates replacement fail on any vehicles I used them on after install.
Fit, function, durability. Never an issue from my own experience with them.

GM may price may be a consideration for some on tight budgets. Gates can often be found in local parts stores same or next day delivery. They are usually little less expensive than GM and should perform just fine.

For radiator, if time is not an issue, I would order GM original from Rock Auto. I got one for my 05 Jeep and it was legit GM part. Cheaper than dealer costs. If an emergency and you can't afford or wait to get a GM radiator, then do what ya gotta do. If at all possible, though, GM would be best choice for radiator. Aftermarket choices I might consider: Denso or TYC.

Agreed, Gates is great stuff- water pumps, hoses, belts.

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

I have the same coolant leak on the tees. I have the old ones off and picked up aluminum replacements. Starting with the inboard tee first to install and I cannot get it pushed on to the tube through the firewall. Reading through this I see mention of using the GM ones. Do those fit better?

 

[89Suburban]

I have the same coolant leak on the tees. I have the old ones off and picked up aluminum replacements. Starting with the inboard tee first to install and I cannot get it pushed on to the tube through the firewall. Reading through this I see mention of using the GM ones. Do those fit better?

Try some lubricant

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

@89Suburban ok. I had thought a bit of antifreeze would have been enough but I can try some silicone grease on there.

 

[89Suburban]

@89Suburban ok. I had thought a bit of antifreeze would have been enough but I can try some silicone grease on there.

If you have a dial caliper you can check the diameters. I would try some syl glyde or assembly lube or even a little motor oil on the o-ring. It should not take too much force to get them on.

What are you installing, the Dorman metal tees?

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

@89Suburban I don't have a dial caliper here so was just trying to fit a tape measure in there last night. Both measure a bit over 5/8". I have some sly glyde somewhere but not sure where right now, otherwise do have other grease and oils around. The aluminum dorman tees are what I have here.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Are you twisting at the same time that you are pushing? That usually helps with both the insertion and removal processes.

If you have not already found out, when you change out the tees, be sure to wear gloves, as the firewall insulation is quite aggressive, and your hands will itch for days.

 

[89Suburban]

@strutaeng did you have any issues installing your dorman metal tees?

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

@Joseph Garcia I was not twisting while pushing because I had the smaller line to the rear heater core already inserted. As far as that insulation goes, yea I'll have to find gloves to wear. Stuff my have been fiberglass. My hands itched for a while. I got some on my forehead too. Still itching there

 

[Jobi-Wan Kenobi]

Had to fight to fight with them a bit getting the lines for the rear heater core inserted but using a little grease did the trick.

 

[89Suburban]

@Joseph Garcia I was not twisting while pushing because I had the smaller line to the rear heater core already inserted. As far as that insulation goes, yea I'll have to find gloves to wear. Stuff my have been fiberglass. My hands itched for a while. I got some on my forehead too. Still itching there

I cut my insulation away from that area, to hell with it.

 

[strutaeng]

@strutaeng did you have any issues installing your dorman metal tees?

No. Installation was pretty easy and didn't have any leaks.

The only difference is that I eliminated one of the hose quick connects (for a worm gear hose clamp instead): I replaced the hose from that tee that goes between the pump and reservoir. All O'Reillys had for the 5/8" hose was a red colored one, so it looks kinda goofy with one hose red and the other black. And the hose was really hard to push into the fitting. Had to heat it up with a torch momentarily.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I have the same coolant leak on the tees. I have the old ones off and picked up aluminum replacements. Starting with the inboard tee first to install and I cannot get it pushed on to the tube through the firewall. Reading through this I see mention of using the GM ones. Do those fit better?

You did not mention hose replacement in your post. Are you replacing the hoses along with the Tees? If not, expect some future 'fun' like a number of us on this Forum have already experienced. The manufacture date is usually stamped on the hose.

 

[Rocket Man]

Had to fight to fight with them a bit getting the lines for the rear heater core inserted but using a little grease did the trick.

Yeah there’s o-rings in those, if you look inside you’ll see them. It’s what seals them. I always use dish soap on o-rings so they slide on.