Growing up doesn't have to suck

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KidWgn

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Hi, you must be new here! :p


So, GM deleted the cabin air filter for the GMT900. It might have been optional in the GMT800. Anyway, the slot for the filter is still there and, instead of an access door, the slot is just sealed off. You can cut out the rectangular portion sealing it off and install the filter. A retrofit kit will have a closure piece (the "access door") that is essentially identical to the factory piece. The boss for the screw to secure the closure is even still there in the HVAC housing.

Take a couple Advils and/or Ativans and slide up under the passenger floorboard. The HVAC cover is secured by three screws (7mm, IIRC). The rightmost and center are easy to remove. There's a third tucked up under the dash, in front of the center console- "good luck", you'll figure it out. Remove that cover and you'll see everything I pictured. I bought the cheapest filter retrofit kit Amazon had. No complaints at all with what I received. I don't see any functional difference in this $13 kit versus the $40 Dorman kit. Cutting out the door is a hassle. But the real chore is cleaning the crud out of the fins of the evaporator without shoving it deeper into the fins. You can only access on side of it and you're working through a ~1" x 8" slot, in the footwell up near the firewall. Ideally, you can find something the same height as the floorboard (bucket, ice chest, etc.) to place next to the door sill, sit on it and lean backwards into the floorboard to work. I've been tempted to remove the passenger seat. But I gotta suffer the hard way first.
I guess I just added that to my weekend projects list.
 

KidWgn

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Hey, now! That ain't bad at all. Like the hoof marks, the camera made the carbon look heavier than it was. I'd like to look in there in a year or so to see if the E85 I've been running the majority of the time is keeping it cleaner.
It wont.

Also, be sure that you're not making a bunch of short trips on E85. I just lost a $15k engine due to fuel dilution in the oil. Amsoil Dominator series 10-30 with 1200 miles on it.
 

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It wont.

Also, be sure that you're not making a bunch of short trips on E85. I just lost a $15k engine due to fuel dilution in the oil. Amsoil Dominator series 10-30 with 1200 miles on it.

I'm not sure I'd blame that on the E85; more likely the short trips without the O2 sensors getting the fuel under control.
 
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iamdub

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I guess I just added that to my weekend projects list.

I hope you have a really sucky vacuum cleaner. My filter install is on hold until I acquire some attachments and materials to make an attachment. The spare crevice tool I was gonna modify is too short. You gotta be able to reach about 10" up in there. I haven't been even half that deep in anything since before I was born.
 
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iamdub

iamdub

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Oh well. Even still, when I opened it at 200K, ~54K of that being mine, the carbon wasn't all that bad, IMO. You could still see the "+" on the pistons.


Also, be sure that you're not making a bunch of short trips on E85. I just lost a $15k engine due to fuel dilution in the oil. Amsoil Dominator series 10-30 with 1200 miles on it.

No short trips here! I live where people dump bodies to the wildlife. It's a 20-mile drive to any decent township, 12+ of which consists of 70+ MPH. I get it plenty heated. Also, I have my oil analyzed at every oil change and they've never badmouthed me.

Is that what happened to your Subie? I saw a YT video recently about E85 and short trips and the damage it causes. IIRC, the engine being torn down was from a Subaru.
 
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iamdub

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I'm not sure I'd blame that on the E85; more likely the short trips without the O2 sensors getting the fuel under control.

I'd lean this way. A friend was all excited telling me she starts her new job on Thursday and how it's only two minutes away from her new home. I'll let her get settled in before I break the news to her.
 

KidWgn

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I'm not sure I'd blame that on the E85; more likely the short trips without the O2 sensors getting the fuel under control.
This is not the case, the trips weren't THAT short. Gasoline starts to boil around 90-degrees F, but it doesn't fully boil until 390F. Ethanol doesn't begin to boil until 140F, but it's FULLY boiling by 175F. Because gasoline starts boiling much sooner, the oil doesn't have to reach as high of temps to boil off the excess fuel by way of vapor. Ethanol boils off completely once the oil temps have risen, but it doesn't start boiling until much later.
I hope you have a really sucky vacuum cleaner. Mine filter install is on hold until I acquire some attachments and materials to make an attachment. The spare crevice tool I was gonna modify is too short. You gotta be able to reach about 10" up in there. I haven't been even half that deep in anything since before I was born.
I got plenty of suck. If not, i've been looking for an excuse to buy the Milwaukee attachment kit for my M18 shop vac.
No short trips here! I live where people dump bodies to the wildlife. It's a 20-mile drive to any decent township, 12+ of which consists of 70+ MPH. I get it plenty heated. Also, I have my oil analyzed at every oil change and they've never badmouthed me.

Is that what happened to your Subie? I saw a YT video recently about E85 and short trips and the damage it causes. IIRC, the engine being torn down was from a Subaru.
That is indeed what happened to ole Fiona. Only got to put ~3500 miles on the built engine. What I learned in the process is that low temp thermostats aren't always a good thing. That engine never ran over 187F water temps, even after WOT blasts down the highway through 3 gears. I've discussed the oil findings in depth with several people whose lives revolve around oil knowledge; the conclusion is that it was indeed from short trips.
I'd lean this way. A friend was all excited telling me she starts her new job on Thursday and how it's only two minutes away from her new home. I'll let her get settled in before I break the news to her.
Yikes, that poor engine. It's NEVER going to boil off the fuel or condensation build-up. I'd tell her to invest in an electric scooter.
 
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iamdub

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Yikes, that poor engine. It's NEVER going to boil off the fuel or condensation build-up. I'd tell her to invest in an electric scooter.

Funny you say that. When she told me her good news, I typed out "You should get a scooter" and was prepared to explain. Then, I realized the lesser-assholish thing to do would be to at least congratulate her first. So I backspaced it and did the right thing. I'll do the other right thing at a more appropriate time. Her car will be fine for the time she's getting settled in at her new job over the next week. She's a TikTok influencer with a cooking channel (channel- is that what they're called?) and we're supposed to have a cooking date as part of her housewarming. It'll be an opportune time to educate her.
 

KidWgn

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Also, I have my oil analyzed at every oil change and they've never badmouthed me.
Almost forgot! Blackstone doesn't analyze fuel dilution.

Try this place, they DO test for fuel dilution. www.https://www.oaitesting.com/

Editing for clarity: they DO show fuel dilution values, but it's based on flash point, not gas spectrometry. Flash point can be wildly inaccurate.
 
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iamdub

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TikTok ya say....

Do share the the OF link of the after party:naughty:

I don't mess with the Tiks or Toks. It's a pain to even watch. A friend sends me links to stuff and I can only watch it once unless I close out of my browser altogether and then click on the link again. But this other chick has made it a thing and small source of income and sponsorships.
 
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iamdub

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/confusedboner


9dcc63dc-068f-4a44-ad8b-4ff9351dff08_text.gif



Allow me- I speak Pennsylvania Hillbilly:

I believe what PawPaw was saying is that he acknowledged an opportunity for one to capitalize on my post with hómoerotic/phallíc humor, but conceded that he was not fully up to the task and, essentially, was tapping you in.
 
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iamdub

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Almost forgot! Blackstone doesn't analyze fuel dilution.

Try this place, they DO test for fuel dilution. www.https://www.oaitesting.com/

Editing for clarity: they DO show fuel dilution values, but it's based on flash point, not gas spectrometry. Flash point can be wildly inaccurate.

I just saw fuel content in my reports and it's always 0%. I never questioned it further. I really don't think I have anything to worry about. My trips are too long and always include moderate to high loads, high RPM, plenty of heat, etc.

Which kit do I need from them? Their site is a little confusing with the various shipping things. I'm not worried about that- I can pay for shipping. I wanna know what service I'm getting.
 

KidWgn

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Which kit do I need from them? Their site is a little confusing with the various shipping things. I'm not worried about that- I can pay for shipping. I wanna know what service I'm getting.
Then I’d just get the non-postage paid.

As far as individual tests that are performed, you’d have to reach out to them to discuss that. Fuel dilution is not a standard part of the test, it’s a requested add on.
 
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iamdub

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Finally had a chance to swap in that starter. To recap: My original starter still worked fine. But, being 15 years old, I knew its days were numbered. I also needed an extra starter to spin the LC9 I have on an engine stand to test compression. I've had a new starter on my low-priority shopping list for a long time. A month ago, I saw an AC Delco 337-1119, BNIB, on Marketplace. It's an AC Delco "Professional" (now known as "Gold"), not an "OE" or "GM Genuine". So, it's supposedly a "good" aftermarket brand. It's new, not remanufactured, made in Mexico. They looked to be $150+ online and this one was priced at $100. After some research, most sources I read said it was for a Gen 3 engine. Rock Auto and O'Reilly said it would fit Gen 3 and 4. Or, at least my '08 LMG. I decided to go for it. Best case, I get a new starter for $100. Worst case, it doesn't fit and I resell it on Marketplace.

I held it up to the LC9, which is an identical engine to my LMG but with an aluminum block. It looked like it'd bolt right up and the gear teeth meshed with the flex plate. So I proceeded with removing my original starter and took some comparison pics-

Note the scratched-out GM part number 12xxxxxx. It's 12610300 on the old starter. The Delco Remy number of 8000288 is legible on both starters:

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Tighter bolt holes, but knurled portion of original bolts twisted through by hand:

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Still looking OEM-ish with the "MADE IN MEXICO" sticker:

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Old one was definitely the original as indicated by the embossed date:

IMG_8229.JPG



Both are 9 tooth gears. The old one had radial and axial play:

IMG_8231.JPG




I've only started it once, but it sounded way different. It sounded like it was spinning the engine faster. Maybe the starter motor has a higher frequency sound that makes me think it's spinning faster. But it was higher-pitched, like a foreign car's starter. Whatever it is, I like it and it didn't make any bad sounds and definitely wasn't struggling. The old starter definitely had wear and maybe it was spinning slower than new despite the 1/0 gauge power and ground cables and new battery feeding it. With the GM part number scratched out, how it appears nearly identical to the original starter, wears Delco Remy embossments and has the same Delco Remy part number, it looks like it's a reboxed OE starter, sold as an "aftermarket". I'm satisfied with it.
 
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