Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I see you had the tow/haul ass button on.
Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I did. I was seeing if the shifting would be even more pronounced. All this was when I first took it out after Jenn got home with it. She took it to get tuned while running her errands that day so it was my first time playing with it.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Any noticeable difference with the button on?
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I didn't notice anything at that time, but I just so happened to be pulling my little trailer (5x8 expanded metal) last night and I put it in Tow/Haul mode just cuz. The trailer weighs about 300lbs and I had a 4L60E on it, which I believe is under 200lbs. When slowly accelerating, I noticed that it holds the gears for WAY longer than it used to. I checked twice to make sure I didn't inadvertently put it in "1". They may have tweaked it to be more of a performance mode, which is still pertinent to the Tow/Haul function. I think I like it. I may do some back-to-back light-, mid-, and full-throttle runs for comparison.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Tow/Haul needs 75% of towing capacity before it really provides any benefit. It's designed/programmed to hold the shifts longer.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Yeah, I definitely didn't need it on for that almost non-existent load. I just wanted to see if it was any different since the tune (outside of WOT pulls) and I never thought to try it until yesterday. I know Tow/Haul holds the shifts longer in it's stock form and I think it shortens the shift time as well. But, it was holding them yesterday like it was stuck in gear. I was pulling away from my house, accelerating as if I was trying to keep an egg from rolling off the hood, and it the RPMs kept climbing as if it was in "1". Of course, it upshifted right before I was letting off to come to the stop sign.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
Let us know how it goes.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Fo sho! I have to update this thread with... something. lol
swathdiver
Full Access Member
An engagement announcement!
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Yes- an announcement of my engagement to commence the swapping of the 5.3 with a 6.0.
..or 6.2? I've been eyeballing LH9s but I meant to ask you- are there any 6.2s that didn't come with AFM?
randeez
Full Access Member
i dont think the L9H has AFM but still has VVT. L9H is down on compression from the L92/L94. *best* non AFM/VVT 6.2 would be an LS3 but still commanding big $$.
doing the delete while on a stand is pretty simple, any of those engines are probably getting up there with mileage now a days anyway, couldnt hurt for a little freshening up
doing the delete while on a stand is pretty simple, any of those engines are probably getting up there with mileage now a days anyway, couldnt hurt for a little freshening up
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Randy is correct, the L9H did not have AFM at all. My information shows 10.5:1 compression for it and it had VVT. Easily deleted and a too much hassle to retrofit a truck that didn't have it versus the gains you'd get.
What are you waiting for?
What are you waiting for?
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I'm fine with VVT cuz it's easier and cheaper to delete than AFM. Out of the 6.0s, it looks like I need to look for an LY6 or L96 (unless I wanna ditch Flexfuel). As for the 6.2s, L92 and L99 have AFM and the LS3 is outta the question! So it looks like my target 6.2 is the L92 and L9H. I've found plenty of low-mileage take-outs on car-part, but I'm at least gonna replace the external seals as cheap insurance against leaks. Like you said- it's all so easy when it's on a stand.
Right- we discussed retrofitting (well, NOT retrofitting!) mine to have the VVT in that other person's thread. I like higher compression and I plan to add a small performance cam to whatever I get. I'm just trying to avoid pulling the heads. Popping off the rockers to swap the push rods and cam is a cinch.
What am I waiting for? I'm waiting for the bigger priorities to be handled. As much as I wanna use the cash I got from selling that built trans to order a motor right now, I have to pay off some stuff first.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
No, I meant that more important announcement! hehehe
The L92 had AFM hardware but was not active in the tune. Stick with the L9H or L96, bigger is better. The L9H in a 2WD truck like yours is going to run! 403 horses stock! The L96 is 352hp if it came out of a 2500.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
About $1,000 price difference between almost any 6.2 and 6.0. I may have to go with the L96. But, if I get the L96, I'd be getting a performance cam so I'd be $500+ back towards that $1,000 difference. I think it'd pay off to save up a few hundred more and have the 400 horsies bone stock.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Well, something happened so I'm adding it to the thread.
The battery died on Jenn last night in the garage and I couldn't do anything cuz I'm working out of town again. She had her friend's dad jump it off this morning so she could bring the sqirls to school and get a battery on the way to work. The timing and logistics worked out great cuz O'Reilly was along her route and they were open and able to replace the battery for her to still make it to work 15 minutes early. So, it now has a Super Start Premium juicing it up.
The previous battery was an Interstate of unknown age. It's always started just fine but I've never sat and ran accessories with the engine off. I've always gotten good service from the Super Start batteries and they didn't charge her to replace it, so I'm content. She said they even cleaned the cable ends before reconnecting them. Y'all know I'm gonna double-check the security of the hold-down hardware and terminals when I get back, though.
Next update: Tires and maybe 2/1 lift?
The battery died on Jenn last night in the garage and I couldn't do anything cuz I'm working out of town again. She had her friend's dad jump it off this morning so she could bring the sqirls to school and get a battery on the way to work. The timing and logistics worked out great cuz O'Reilly was along her route and they were open and able to replace the battery for her to still make it to work 15 minutes early. So, it now has a Super Start Premium juicing it up.
The previous battery was an Interstate of unknown age. It's always started just fine but I've never sat and ran accessories with the engine off. I've always gotten good service from the Super Start batteries and they didn't charge her to replace it, so I'm content. She said they even cleaned the cable ends before reconnecting them. Y'all know I'm gonna double-check the security of the hold-down hardware and terminals when I get back, though.
Next update: Tires and maybe 2/1 lift?
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Well, something happened so I'm adding it to the thread.
The battery died on Jenn last night in the garage and I couldn't do anything cuz I'm working out of town again. She had her friend's dad jump it off this morning so she could bring the sqirls to school and get a battery on the way to work. The timing and logistics worked out great cuz O'Reilly was along her route and they were open and able to replace the battery for her to still make it to work 15 minutes early. So, it now has a Super Start Premium juicing it up.
The previous battery was an Interstate of unknown age. It's always started just fine but I've never sat and ran accessories with the engine off. I've always gotten good service from the Super Start batteries and they didn't charge her to replace it, so I'm content. She said they even cleaned the cable ends before reconnecting them. Y'all know I'm gonna double-check the security of the hold-down hardware and terminals when I get back, though.
Next update: Tires and maybe 2/1 lift?
Sqirls. Lol.
Edit after a little thought.... Needs a U and a Z. Just to keep it hip. My .02
Squirlz.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Got Jenn a car last weekend so the Tahoe's mine again. It was due for it's 5,000-mile service so I had it on jack stands in the shop with the wheels off. Since I no longer have to rush to get it back together for kid transit service, I took my time and decided to see how difficult it would be to install those 2" front lift spacers I've had for a few months. Completing one side prompted me to finish it out with the other side, which prompted me to install the 1.5" wheel spacers (studs needed to be trimmed about 5/16"-3/8"), which prompted me to install the 1" rear spacers. It rolled in the shop for an oil change and tire rotation and rolled out with a 2/1 lift and 3" wider stance. Time to get those all-terrains on now.
No before and after pics cuz it was a spur-of-the-moment idea
Quick and easy 2" front lift. I don't care much for the Grade5 hardware, but I'll be headed to a hardware store soon and Grade8 stuff is on that shopping list:
Tahoe's been in my possession again for less than 24 hours at this point and I've already taken my scalpel to it. I'll round off/dress up and cold-galvanize the stud tips later:
Hubcentric wheel spacer installed:
Quick-and-dirty, half-assed cell pic:
No before and after pics cuz it was a spur-of-the-moment idea
Quick and easy 2" front lift. I don't care much for the Grade5 hardware, but I'll be headed to a hardware store soon and Grade8 stuff is on that shopping list:
Tahoe's been in my possession again for less than 24 hours at this point and I've already taken my scalpel to it. I'll round off/dress up and cold-galvanize the stud tips later:
Hubcentric wheel spacer installed:
Quick-and-dirty, half-assed cell pic:
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Looks great! Yours, in my eyes because of its color, also looks great slightly lowered. Our RC 2 inch level came in Saturday, just need time now. Don't forget the alignment.
