Front Axle Seals replaced...still leaking

[Foggy]

22761722 GM. Got them off Amazon though, has me wondering .

This is probably the problem as you've stated how careful you were. I'm ocd too
about stuff...
Been proven time and time again that alot of branded parts are counterfeit on Amazon.
I bet if you bought them local or on rockauto, you'd get ones that are packaged
"similar" but not exact .. and not the exact parts either...
Sorry for the bad luck. Don't trust amazon or ebay on name branded (mfr) named
stuff. Get it local ... even though the prices are vastly different

 

[mikez71]

Don't trust amazon or ebay on name branded (mfr) named
stuff. Get it local ... even though the prices are vastly different

That was not the OP. (But where did you get your parts from @slowride77?)
He did list the GM part numbers he used, as well as claiming they were a dimensional match to his old parts.
(despite an updated part number, which sounds like an improvement according to @West 1)

 

[EddieC]

Nothing to offer except glad to have the information available because I expect to change my cv axles (and perhaps seals) next month.
Driver's seal is not leaking but the passenger's dribbles a little. Video's I've seen on the passenger's side appear to be a bit more technical.

 

[West 1]

The seal upgrade was far back, maybe 2003? I know I installed some in 2007.

 

[solli5pack]

Nothing to offer except glad to have the information available because I expect to change my cv axles (and perhaps seals) next month.
Driver's seal is not leaking but the passenger's dribbles a little. Video's I've seen on the passenger's side appear to be a bit more technical.

I pulled the diff when I did mine. I don't mind doing a little extra work to eliminate working in tight spots on my back in the driveway! Also after rechecking looks like my seals stopped leaking. Maybe they needed time to settle in? Two days after installing mine I did the 1100 mile drive down to Florida from N.J. so maybe that had an effect.

 

[PatDTN]

I had a rear axle seal leaking. Replaced that and the reluctor i messed up doing it. A little while later I realized it was leaking again. My wife convinced me to tak3 my Tahoe to a shop she was trying to sell something to before I went in to see what I messed up.they found the axle shaft was worn fr9m a bad bearing that let the axle wobble aand wipe out the seal. A new axle, bearing, and seal later (they knew about the reluctor) and it was fixed. I paid them an obscene amount of money and they declined what my wif3 was selling.

Years ago I blew a rear axle bearing on my '84 Suburban. My buddy David Coleman taught me about Green bearings and that one was fixed with a bearing and seal in hours.

 

[Beemer1]

My money was on the shaft not being perfectly round. Scotchbrite does not a lathe make. And that is the only way to be sure the surface is true. No VISIBLE groove does not mean wear isn't present. Just like a cylinder block that has no visible ring ridge (meaning one you can catch a fingernail on). If you hone that bore the rockover point will show. Even with no discernable ring ridge and crossover hatch on the cylinder walls still being visible from factory honing. I will never, EVER try to save a buck by buying off Amazon.

There are plenty of official GM parts houses found on Google. How much is your TIME worth? I make 100 an hour when I work on vehicles. I'm currently knee deep into a 2011 Cadillac Escalade Platinum Hybrid's front suspension.

Detroit axle sent me a lower control arm with no bellows seal on the ball joint. Was supposed to be done today. Heat rolling up into the high 90's with 110 heat index till the 4th.

My window of work time is gone. Also I found out AFTER buying the kit that Detroit axle seems to have a rather large return rate on hubs/bearings for both GMT400's and our GMT800's on up. So I asked them if they had any warranty return stats. Nope. Does their factory do mean time between failure analysis? Crickets.

I am replacing EVERYTHING bolted to the frame, it all came off. Fought a stuck upper control arm bolt for 4 days before it finally came loose (customer didn't want to use a torch to cut the bolt, due to the THIN nature of the metal it goes thru). So I wrote a rather scathing email to Detroit Axle about their quality control since everything in the box had been opened (this was the full front end kit, 4 control arms, two hubs, two axles, two steering knuckles, the works. No grease zerks in the box or bags. Ordered Bendix Fleet Metlok pads and new rotors from Rock Auto (all 4 corners, drilled/slotted rotors. New rubber brake lines and new bulkhead lines as well (corroded). Sway bar end links, literally EVERY PART.

To me, my labor being 100 an hour, I pay MYSELF when I do my own work. You should be thinking that way too. This will be your THIRD time into this mess?

Figure you make at least 20 bucks an hour and probably triple that. How much is YOUR time worth to do it over? Remember the old saying, "there's never time to do it right but you always make time to do it over"?

Just to be safe, I ordered new MOOG hubs/bearings since there is now a delay. I'll use those detroit axle hubs/bearings on a roll around gantry crane I'm going to build.

ALWAYS think about your OWN labor costs. You spent twice what the parts cost easily in your own labor. (meaning you could have been off working your job making that much instead of under your vehicle). Or spending time with your kids if you have them.

Go buy the parts from the GM parts counter. ROCK has been caught putting junk ball joints in MOOG boxes too, so ALWAYS check to find MOOG on the item somewhere (they ALL have the brand either laser etched or embossed somewhere, usually on the zerk fitting plate). The new seal mentioned in the comments works VERY well. Also, if you can, try to NOT place that seal lip in the same place it was riding on before. That seal can ride sticking further in, or out for that matter by a tiny bit. A new seal riding in an old seal's groove will leak. Worst comes to worst, measure that sealing surface with a dial indicator as you slowly pull it out of the housing. (the shaft). I bet you get a bounce where the old seal was riding. Might not be much. But that will tell you true.

As for me, I'll be biting the bullet and working in 110 heat index temps to finish this up by the 4th when the customer wants it. I forgot a valuable lesson about cheap parts bought sight unseen. Though I have had decent luck with Detroit axle and they do have a 10 year warranty, the warranty is meaningless if, like you with these cheap seals, I have to go in and replace that hub/bearing in a year, because I HAVE TO EAT THE LABOR, just like you're doing. My customer specifically asked me to get the detroit axle full kit. I argued MOOG or GM factory parts. Oddly, the one part we could NOT find was the brake dust shield/backing plates. His are nearly rotted away and NOBODY makes them. Tons for the 3 bolt GMT 400's and Tons for the 2015 up trucks, but NONE for 08-14. WHO KNEW?

 

[donjetman]

2 1/2 yrs and 20k miles ago I rebuilt the frt end of my 07 Denali w/Detroit Axle/amazon parts, etc. No isssues. Saved a bunch of $.

AC Delco or Moog front end rebuild kit for 2013 Yukon

Exact same thing that's happening to the ball joint on one of my Moog lower control arms. Annoying. I'm letting it ride for now, but I know that's a short term strategy and I'll be in there again soon enough. If I can't find OEM, I will replace it with Mevotech this time and see if that's any...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[pwtr02ss]

'09 Tahoe. Front Diff pumpkin gasket was leaking and the pinion seal as well.

Pulled the front diff, replaced all gaskets and pinion seal and while there, replaced both axle seals (were not leaking before).

I was very careful, took my time, cleaned everything and reinstall per the book.

I had the passenger side axle seal leaking after about 500 miles (bad leak..puddle), so I pulled the half shaft carrier housing and axle, replaced again.

That side stopped for now, but now the drivers side is ever-so-slightly leaking. I runs down to the drain plug and one single drip on the floor.

I used all GM parts for the repairs, both times, but the seals were a newer part number replacement from GM that looked slightly different but were a dimensional match.

So....questions, Has anyone experienced this before? If i want the drip on the drivers side to stop, do i have to pull the whole diff again? Can you replace under the vehicle?

Also, these seals seem to grip the axle shaft and the rubber spins inside the metal clad shell vs the shaft spinning in the rubber...is that correct?

Was I an idiot for replacing something that wasnt leaking? I thought I was doing the right thing, but this is turning into an exercise in futility.

Any prior experiences would help! Thanks!

GM Part numbers:
22761722 axle seal
12471590 pinion seal
15270969 case seal
15270970 half shaft housing seal

I just replaced my axle seals with the same part number as you. Parts came from rockauto. Like you, my seal spins and I did question it. Hopefully i don't have the same problem

 

[mikez71]

Oddly, the one part we could NOT find was the brake dust shield/backing plates. His are nearly rotted away and NOBODY makes them. Tons for the 3 bolt GMT 400's and Tons for the 2015 up trucks, but NONE for 08-14. WHO KNEW?

That IS weird.. Only see them for the rear, none for the front...
But available for '15+

 

[West 1]

Check wrecking yards on the west coast where these parts never rust out. The yards have bunches of them in stock. Referring to the brake backing plate.

One follow up to the modern axle seals. All wear is internal on the seal. These seals GRIP the axle, they don’t SPIN on the axle so Zero axle wear for the life of the truck. The older design like the seals that came on the 1995 era trucks do wear the axle shaft and will leave a groove at high miles.

These front diffs get hot on long trips. The hot oil needs to vent. If the vent is plugged or even partially plugged you will leak out the seals. Make sure the diff vent is clean and open.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Check wrecking yards on the west coast where these parts never rust out. The yards have bunches of them in stock. Referring to the brake backing plate.

One follow up to the modern axle seals. All wear is internal on the seal. These seals GRIP the axle, they don’t SPIN on the axle so Zero axle wear for the life of the truck. The older design like the seals that came on the 1995 era trucks do wear the axle shaft and will leave a groove at high miles.

These front diffs get hot on long trips. The hot oil needs to vent. If the vent is plugged or even partially plugged you will leak out the seals. Make sure the diff vent is clean and open.

Thank you for the explanation. My truck is higher mileage, but the shaft looked in excellent condition. I've serviced it regularly, so there wasn't a ton out build up inside.