Fosscore's 2013 Suburban LTZ Build Thread

[Sam Harris]

Put the Suburban back up on jack stands this morning. Removed the driver side sway bar bushing and gave it a good glob of grease. Went to remove the passengers side and one of the bolts will not budge. Rather it wants to round off. Tried a 6 point and 12 point deep socket and had a look at some vice grips. NOPE!! The sockets want to round off the head and the vice grip is not really going to work due to limited spacing.

Any further thoughts on getting that bolt to move without making the head into a marble??

As I was messing around on the passenger side, I think I found my clunking issue.

The passenger side stabilizer bar link bushing is gone! I guess I overlooked it in my hurry or maybe it finally just popped off.

Missing bushing under the sway bar.
View attachment 233664

Sway bar bushing bolt wanting to round off the head. 10mm.
View attachment 233665


Also removed and greased the rear sway bar bushings as well.

Here are the stabilizer bar link kits I am looking at. Moog Problem Solver which is what I put on the Tahoe.

Moog K700538 Stabilizer Bar Link Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K700538...2?keywords=K700538+moog&qid=1572793274&sr=8-2

Here is the Moog site link.
https://www.moogparts.com/find-my-part/find-my-part-results.html?parttype=SUSPENSION&apptype=AUTOMOTIVE&options=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500&values=2013~Chevrolet~Suburban 1500

Those are the ones I put on the Yukon. Happy with them.

 

[iamdub]

You're fighting a bolt on the sway bar frame bushing? Soak it with PB B'laster for a couple days until your replacement bushings arrive. Then, heat the frame around the bolt and beat directly on the bolt head with a hammer. Grab a cheap socket that you'd be fine with sacrificing (pawn shops are great for this since many sell them from a bin of mixed singles) that's one size smaller even if it's SAE instead of metric. Try to use a 6-point socket if you have enough of the flats left on the head. After heating the frame around it and beating on the bolt, beat that socket onto it and try to back it out. If you have a small impact gun, like a cordless 1/4" or pneumatic 3/8", you might try hitting it with that in forward and reverse a few times to help shock the threads apart. Just don't run the impact like you're on a lug nut.

 

[Fosscore]

You're fighting a bolt on the sway bar frame bushing? Soak it with PB B'laster for a couple days until your replacement bushing arrive. Then, heat the frame around the bolt and beat directly on the bolt head with a hammer. Grab a cheap socket that you'd be fine with sacrificing (pawn shops are great for this since many sell them from a bin of mixed singles) that's one size smaller even if it's SAE instead of metric. Try to use a 6-point socket if you have enough of the flats left on the head. After heating the frame around it and beating on the bolt, beat that socket onto it and try to back it out. If you have a small impact gun, like a cordless 1/4" or pneumatic 3/8", you might try hitting it with that in forward and reverse a few times to help shock the threads apart. Just don't run the impact like you're on a lug nut.

Thx man. Good advice to go with the others.

 

[The_Burban]

You're fighting a bolt on the sway bar frame bushing? Soak it with PB B'laster for a couple days until your replacement bushings arrive. Then, heat the frame around the bolt and beat directly on the bolt head with a hammer. Grab a cheap socket that you'd be fine with sacrificing (pawn shops are great for this since many sell them from a bin of mixed singles) that's one size smaller even if it's SAE instead of metric. Try to use a 6-point socket if you have enough of the flats left on the head. After heating the frame around it and beating on the bolt, beat that socket onto it and try to back it out. If you have a small impact gun, like a cordless 1/4" or pneumatic 3/8", you might try hitting it with that in forward and reverse a few times to help shock the threads apart. Just don't run the impact like you're on a lug nut.

I did the PB for a few days.

Then I smashed it with the M18 Fuel 1/2" high torque.

I bought a new set of bits after this to drill it all out.

Imma try your way next time.

 

[iamdub]

I did the PB for a few days.

Then I smashed it with the M18 Fuel 1/2" high torque.

I bought a new set of bits after this to drill it all out.

Imma try your way next time.

Them Milwaukees are manbearpigs. That's why I suggested a small impact to gradually shock it loose. lol

Guessing by your avatar that you're either a Milwaukee sales rep or a huge fan. PM me if you're a sales rep, please!

 

[The_Burban]

No, not a sales rep. I try to get friendly with my local ones but they seem to have a lot of turnover.

Keep an eye on slickdeals.net and know your local Home Depots. If you got time, they will go on sale.

 

[randeez]

Mind were a pita first time out, used large impact with 6pt socket. Put them back in drowned in antiseize. Havent had a problem since

 

[Fosscore]

Sway Bar End Links.


Mission accomplished on the sway bar end links install.

Moog Problem Solver K70053
https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/pa...pNum=K700538&partType=Stabilizer Bar Link Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K700538-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B00CE3PA6A

These are the brand/style Moog links that I put on the Tahoe as well. Just a different model number.

They were a tight fit going in, even when dum dum loosened up both sides of the sway bar once the front wheels were off the ground on jack stands.

I did have to invert the links and install them from the top down due to the tight fit. Took a little persuasion to squeeze that bushing in near the lower control arm. And maybe I missed something or didn't unload the sway bar enough, but in the end, the part is installed, the bushings are in the correct order (and there are 2 bushings on the passenger side that was missing 2!) and torqued maybe even a bit more than the recommended 17lbs.

Next will be to deal with the sway bar bushing bolt that is stuck with a rounded head. Will look into some Energy Suspension greasable bushings with zerk fittings. Just need to find a replacement 10mm bolt as the OEM one is going to be toast. Not an immediate need, but on the never ending maintenance list.

No wonder there was clunking/popping with 2 missing bushings, thus making the link hand loose.

Moog Problem Solver and OEM links.

New Moog link installed.

 

[swathdiver]

Put the Suburban back up on jack stands this morning. Removed the driver side sway bar bushing and gave it a good glob of grease. Went to remove the passengers side and one of the bolts will not budge. Rather it wants to round off. Tried a 6 point and 12 point deep socket and had a look at some vice grips. NOPE!! The sockets want to round off the head and the vice grip is not really going to work due to limited spacing.

Careful! I snapped the head right off, it's too small and the threads are also 10mm!. You can put oil on the other side of the threads as the bolt goes through the bracket. I had to order the bolts off Amazon and ebay, not too many around anymore it seems. Let me see... 11609701.

That incident with your oil filter is why I always change the oil myself. I also run the long K&N (HP2011) with the one inch nut to make removal and installation much easier.

 

[Fosscore]

Careful! I snapped the head right off, it's too small and the threads are also 10mm!. You can put oil on the other side of the threads as the bolt goes through the bracket. I had to order the bolts off Amazon and ebay, not too many around anymore it seems. Let me see... 11609701.

That incident with your oil filter is why I always change the oil myself. I also run the long K&N (HP2011) with the one inch nut to make removal and installation much easier.

Thx James. I worried about it snapping off, hence why I stopped pushing and it wasn't going to effect anything immediately.

I found the bolt on Amazon/eBay. Amazon price better by a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QIO4NU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3D9I70CHHIHSF&psc=1

Will have to order that on standby for when I get to that project.

Thx for that part number.

 

[Fosscore]

Took the Suburban for a spin early this morning to see if I could hear any more clunking and to make sure the links were good to go.

Filled up the thirsty tank with 89, gave it the quickest wash and dry before school. Then it rained... HARD immediately after as we were having breakfast. But at least it is clean!

And then this happened.....the wife mentioned the driver's door was getting sloppy and sure enough it is toast as of this morning. A new one will be on order shortly. Grrr...only 1 door has not broken yet...

 

[BADRIDES]

And then this happened.....the wife mentioned the driver's door was getting sloppy and sure enough it is toast as of this morning. A new one will be on order shortly. Grrr...only 1 door has not broken yet...

View attachment 233787

Those are a poor design by Chevrolet. We are constantly replacing those at the dealership I work at.

 

[Fosscore]

Those are a poor design by Chevrolet. We are constantly replacing those at the dealership I work at.

Curious how much that invoice comes out for the handle and labor to replace a handle, which we all do on here for the $20 it costs for the handle?

And I know the Gruven inserts are an option too....but for every handle? That gets pricey too, but then replacing handles does too!

 

[Tonyrodz]

Curious how much that invoice comes out for the handle and labor to replace a handle, which we all do on here for the $20 it costs for the handle?

And I know the Gruven inserts are an option too....but for every handle? That gets pricey too, but then replacing handles does too!

Damned if you do, damned if you don't.

 

[Fosscore]

Damned if you do, damned if you don't.

Found a replacement drivers front handle on Amazon for the usual
sub-$20 price and it will be here tomorrow.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RG2ZPZM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2LR08Q3PF8KCD&psc=1

 

[swathdiver]

Thx James. I worried about it snapping off, hence why I stopped pushing and it wasn't going to effect anything immediately.

I found the bolt on Amazon/eBay. Amazon price better by a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QIO4NU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3D9I70CHHIHSF&psc=1

Will have to order that on standby for when I get to that project.

Thx for that part number.

Anytime my friend!

 

[Fosscore]

38,330 miles

So the driver's door interior pull handle was added to the list of failures on my Suburban. This just adds to the other repeated failures that are echoed throughout the forum, online and numerous YouTube videos. Some with colorful commentary.

1. Driver's interior door pull - repaired
2. Exterior handles - replaced 3 doors including one handle twice
3. Cracked dash - 4 places - center speaker x 1 and Airbag x 3
4. Climate control buttons ink wearing off - I have there overlay stickers

The door pull went to jelly before the summer and I finally got around to making an attempt to repair it after seeing another post about it again here on the TYF.

I watched some videos and some guys took the entire handle apart, added some L brackets and spent a lot of time disassembling the door panel. Seeing that there is no direct replacement and you have to buy an entire door panel, you are really left up to your own ingenuity.

I followed along with the expanding foam option by pulling back the handle skin at the seam on the inside of the grab handle. Not a whole lot of room to work with and the skin itself doesn't really snap back together. The 2 seams just kind of overlap and slip together. And I wanted to be careful not to tear the skin or stretch it out too far.

I used very little out of the Great Stuff can. I tried some sealant first that I already had on hand, but it never really cured properly. A good effort but zero for solution. I did cut up a plastic spreader in thin strips, drilled a hole on both ends and zip tied the pieces together to fit in the skinny, shallow void where the ultra thin white plastic pieces and foam used to live. Pretty flimsy design really, considering how much use that handle gets.

I tried numerous other options, e.g. some PVC pipe (too tall and wide and too much effort to cut it in half and shave it down), a carriage bolt, and some skinny flat metal brackets that would have taken time on the wheel to modify and fit that small gap. So I went with the spreader. Once it was trimmed down, it fit the width and height of that void quite nice and was hopeful it would give the handle some rigidity and strength once the foam expanded and dried.

I peeled the handle apart again and squeezed the trigger. The foam came out of the nozzle rapidly and started to flash off pretty quick in the heat and humidity. I didn't have much time to work with it and tried to shoot as much as I could into the void and get the top and bottom lips of the handle to match up. I quickly wiped up the extra gobs and used some denatured alcohol to get off the sticky residue before it dried in the texture of the handle.

Then I grabbed about 14 zip ties (random number but yes I did count them after installation) and secured the handle tightly while evenly spacing the ties across the entire handle, but not too snug so as to try and prevent grooves in the handle once I removed them. I left the zip ties in place for 48 hours.

Voila!! The grab handle is fixed much better than it was. Not floppy. Not stretch Armstrong. Could you do pull ups with it? No, but you can now close it without fear of it ripping in half. The foam formed up nicely underneath and it appears that there are only very slight indents in the handle. Hopefully they will round out a bit more after some usage. Either way, it is better than it was before.

There was some foam seepage at the gap, which I expected. I took a brand new square razor blade and carefully trimmed the 2 edges flush and smooth and picked away any runs down the inside and underneath of the handle.

It feels pretty solid and much cheaper than a new door panel.


Broken plastic piece that runs the length of the grab handle and the foam that "fills" out the void with the plastic.

The carnage that went in the bin.

The void after the plastic was taken out and I also ripped out that bit of foam so that I could put the cut up plastic spreader in that gap. The plastic bits looked like steak fries if you will. Long and skinny and stuck together as mentioned above.

The trashed bits from the OEM build and 2 other ideas I tried to make work quickly, but in the interest of time and effort, moved on to the plastic spreader and foam to stiffen the grab handle and fill the void of the handle.

The Great Stuff and plastic spreader I cut up in small strips.

 

[Fosscore]

14 zip ties. I know someone is going to count them to double check anyways!!

A little bit of foam seepage that was shaved pretty damn clean and smooth after cutting the zip ties off.

Some light indents in the handle from the zip ties while holding the two parts of the handle together while the foam cured. Hopefully it holds up under heavy use.

 

[Tonyrodz]

14 zip ties. I know someone is going to count them to double check anyways!!
View attachment 233846

A little bit of foam seepage that was shaved pretty damn clean and smooth after cutting the zip ties off.
View attachment 233850


Some light indents in the handle from the zip ties while holding the two parts of the handle together while the foam cured. Hopefully it holds up under heavy use.
View attachment 233848

A customer wants me to try the same thing for an Explorer. They have similar issues, but with the door panel armrest. How exactly did you utilize the spreader? Also--maybe try some heat from a hair dryer on the area where the zip ties were holding. That might smooth the indents out a little bit more. Came out excellent. Good job .

 

[BADRIDES]

Curious how much that invoice comes out for the handle and labor to replace a handle, which we all do on here for the $20 it costs for the handle?

And I know the Gruven inserts are an option too....but for every handle? That gets pricey too, but then replacing handles does too!

We get half an hour installation $49.50 plus the price of the handle.