engine knock no oil pressure need help asap please

[rayninglead]

Thanks but just a bit to pricey for me lol anything cheaper?

 

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

2000 bucks doesnt seem like much to work with to get a new engine and have it put in

 

[SunlitComet]

And it is new new.

 

[undy]

Thanks but just a bit to pricey for me lol anything cheaper?

Not really... You need vortec heads for your intake manifold. That alone eliminates the cheap stuff. Your other alternative is to rebuild what you have. It could very easy approach $2K anyway.

 

[rayninglead]

I'll be putting it in myself done a couple swaps before that's not a problem. Called a local yard and I can get one complete for 686$ with 160k and just rebuild mine when I can get to it (Have never done it but always wanted to) what should I look for when looking at the one at the yard I can hear run before purchase. Thanks for the replies and sunlit you were right about the bearings lol #3 cylinder on riverside is bye bye. What oil pressure should it have with 160k

 

[SunlitComet]

If you found he sound location when you pulled the plug you might get lucky and just replace that rod bearing. You want to rebuild one dive into this first. Costs you just time, oil pan gaskets, oil, filter, torque wrench, plasti-gage and bearing if all goes well.

---------- Post added at 09:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 PM ----------

Best to have at least 20 psi at idle and revving should get you past 40psi on a bearing/pump healthy engine. Everyone will vary but those numbers with no knocking hot or cold and clean throughout should last a while.

 

[rayninglead]

Thanks I was thinking of changing the one bearing but someone told me if one went the others are right behind I don't know how true that is? And ok now that I know the oil pressure I'm looking for I'll pop my pan off and see how everything looks. What's a good way besides just draining the oil to get those shavings out of my engine? Add a magnet?

 

[undy]

Wow, 700 bucks for a high mileage engine at or near the rebuild stage. I'd walk first and not waste my hard earned $$. Your money...

The people you're talking to are right. If one rod bearing is gone then the rest are not far behind. Don't waste your time on an attempted/failed short term fix. If the rod is knocking, at a minimum it would require resizing.

BTW... Bearing babbit is not magnetic.

 

[rayninglead]

So your saying don't buy the engine at the yard? I planned on buying that to get me by until I rebuild mine. I just don't have the time right now I'm full time in college. So can't rebuild at this time and it's my only transportation so I need it back the quickest and cheapest and need it to last 9 months until I can rebuild my original engine

 

[undy]

You're going to be out +/-$3K in the long run with your current plan and stuck with a rebuilt engine from an unknown (to me) rebuilder.

For a bit over $2K you have a completely new engine with a GM 24 mo, 36K mile engine warranty.

I've got over 50 years of seeing scenarios play out like this and a degree in Automotive Technologies.

Your choice...

 

[OR VietVet]

Plus who says the used engine will last 9 months. Also, if you think the cost of the engine is all it will be then think again. As you take the engine out and reinstall another you will come across something else to be handled while in there. If you need something quick then find a small used car to buy and drive it for 9-12 months while you do the other engine because your engine swap with the used one will likely get a hang up or two while doing it. Again, like undy said, your money......

 

[rayninglead]

thanks for the input Guys I really appreciate it but I'm going to get the motor from the yard and rebuild mine next year myself I know it might not be what some of you would do but I just bought the truck and am capable of doing all the work I just want it back so I have transportation back and forth from school I'll post pics in this thread when I start doing the engine swap and let everyone know how it goes

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok. Good luck.

 

[SunlitComet]

Plus who says the used engine will last 9 months. Also, if you think the cost of the engine is all it will be then think again. As you take the engine out and reinstall another you will come across something else to be handled while in there. If you need something quick then find a small used car to buy and drive it for 9-12 months while you do the other engine because your engine swap with the used one will likely get a hang up or two while doing it. Again, like undy said, your money......

Whats to say that the small car won't have issues shortly there after? At any rate chance on fixing what could be one really bad bearing at very low cost is worth a shot. where if you can't end up making a difference you can learn from the process. The rod bearing costs about $5 and the rest of parts should still cost less then $100. It is time that will eat up things. If worried about other bearing first take off another and inspect inside. Just assembly lube when you put it back on. As for clearing out debris I usually recommend priming the engine pump with a drill motor for sometime with a very low micron passing filter. Between that and a new oil you should be able to wash most of it out of the engine.

 

[rayninglead]

What about the crank? It was chirping when it lost oil pressure my friend said it was because the crank was hitting the bearing? Or something similar.

 

[undy]

The crank will have to be turned or replaced.

 

[SunlitComet]

How about inspecting it first before condemning it to needing to be removed and worked on.

 

[2door2wheel]

Whats to say that the small car won't have issues shortly there after? At any rate chance on fixing what could be one really bad bearing at very low cost is worth a shot. where if you can't end up making a difference you can learn from the process. The rod bearing costs about $5 and the rest of parts should still cost less then $100. It is time that will eat up things. If worried about other bearing first take off another and inspect inside. Just assembly lube when you put it back on. As for clearing out debris I usually recommend priming the engine pump with a drill motor for sometime with a very low micron passing filter. Between that and a new oil you should be able to wash most of it out of the engine.

i second this motion. its very low risk (financially) and high reward if it works

 

[dcr749]

Just my 2 cents.. I'd go with the used motor and rebuild plan as well... but for a little added insurance I'd pull the pan on the new motor and throw in a new rear seal and new oil pump while it's easy to get to. And check any of the gaskets for signs of leaking.. fix the easy stuff before you shove it in. Can save you a lot of headache down the road. Couldn't hurt to look at the front seal on the trans while it's easily accessible too.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[SunlitComet]

+1 on the gasket check. FYI when my tranny came out in 2011 I had the seal replaced too. But at 230k there was hardly any signs of old one leaking. Nice to see technological advances in seals has paid off over the years.