DIY Mid & Long LCA's / UCA's.....and everything else you'll need to have and know

[5StarCustmSolutns]

[ Mod: feel free to move this to a different place if you think it needs to be somewhere else? ]



WELL....for what seems like FOREVER now (since August '24), I've been collecting parts and trying to digest all that is Off-Road Suspension Geometry and the pro's and con's of all the different setups man has come up with over the years. All my front end time revolved around Mid and Long Travel IFS. Didn't really spend any time on solid axles, with exception of the few parts the two systems share..

For the 1st couple months I was kind of taking in everything re: the rear end. Mostly for the purpose of trying to decide what system might work best for my (overweight) Pre-Runner build. Sometime around Halloween I discovered the Reverse Triangulated 4-link system. I knew almost instantly that That was the route best suited for what I was trying to do back there. Why?? The gas tank! W/o moving the tank there is just no way to run a normal 4 link rear suspension under the back of a GMT900 platform vehicle. A little later on when I get into build specs, I'll show how discovered the Rev Tri 4-link!

So why start this now?? Bc I got my tires yesterday. ....and rarely in my life have I been this excited about tires......simply put, they're the best looking off-road tires I've ever seen, and they were my last big purchase needed to go full tilt at this thing.....and away we go

Kenda Klever M/T2 in 35 x 10.50 x 17LT
34.76" t x 11.06" x 17. Triple threat three layer sidewall. New Blockchain sidewall lugs. Havent found too many people saying anything but great things about them?!?!

I guess we'll see??

Looks like somebody's got their work cut our for them....

 

[Charlie207]

So... what about the front control arms?

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

So... what about the front control arms?

It was this video

back in August (and the co$t of all the LT kits) that motivated me to build my own. More specifically the 80 second monologue about "Why" he built his own that starts at the 14:05 mark. I've been teaching myself how to weld for a couple years now and felt like I was up to the task? To best of my recall, I've never put to words what Phinn describes in his monologue, but looking back on the last 10-12yrs as a Gen Build Contractor, I've gone from one challenge to the next...

One of the first things that got my attn in the video was when he described how much trouble he had trying to extend the rounded square shape of the factory Lower's vs the ease with which he was able to extend the aftermarket tubular Upper's he installed a few months earlier. He just cut the tubes and used sleeves that matched the i.d. to extend the ball joint out 3" and forward 1.5". My immediate thought was I needed to find some aftermarket tubular LCA's!

The only three I could find in the next two weeks were all lowering, "drop" LCA's. After a couple weeks of looking at them, seeing them show up in search after search (a lot of times I'll search then go to images and scroll to find _____(whatever it is), I had the thought "Why can't a guy flip the ball joints over on these and run them upside down, on the opposite side they were designed to be run on, and get 4" lift out of them???

So I asked a dude that I thought might be in the know, someone I assumed might be an outside the box thinker, and he said "nope won't work" before I even sent him the pictures lol! These things are mirror images of each other. I could not see how it wouldn't work?

That just motivated me more. So I called one of the manufacturers and asked for someone that could answer technical product questions? ...annnd I might as well have been speaking mandarin chinese to this guy lol.. He was completely unable to grasp what I was asking, suggested I call skyjacker or a lift company....smh. So I called the next one....and got basically the same result. Then I called the third, Wulf Suspensions, and got a design engineer on the phone. I asked the same queston, he paused, then replied: "Well yeah Dan, that could work just fine" So, I went with Wulf Suspensions 4" drop, lowering Upper and Lower Control Arms. Made a deal with them for two sets of uppers and lowers, for like $600? Gave me like 40-45% off? One set was returned and scuffed up a bit. Plan to powdercoat them white anyways..

Now I needed a jig... So.... bought some OE Mevotech replacements from O'Reilly's, ripped off 2- 2'x2' pieces of 3/4" plywood, fab'd some "L" brackets, bolted the OE LCA's to the boards, made sure the ball joint was in a central / neutral position, marked the tip of the ball joint shaft on the board, and drew a 5" x 10" grid centered off the ball joint location. Then swapped out the OE's for the Wulf's, and that's where they've been waiting for 6-7 weeks now as I've been sourcing the rest of the parts necessary to attempt to pull this off..

The Wulf's are 1.5 dom tube with .120 wall. That leaves a hollow center of 1.26" Ordered some 1.25" dom tube for the inner sleeves and some 1.50" to go around them. The plan is to sleeve them inside with three inch extra on both ends, and make three linear plug welds at 12, 4, & 8 o'clock(every 120 degrees) around the circumference, then clam shell over the section of exposed sleeve... I made that plan up in about 30 seconds a couple monts ago and, so far, nobody (that knows how to weld) has hinted that it was a bad plan so I'm rollin w/it

Before I returned the OE replacements I bought a couple magnetic digital angle finders and went over them at all the important locations. They've got about a 6 degree kick up after the shock perch. Sometime in the next 10-12 days I'll bring the truck in and start figuring out the geometry for my LT LCA's...



So that was kind of a long answer, but I was gonna have to explain all that sooner or later anyway, now it's done.. I probably could've waited a few more weeks to start the thread? Got excited because of the tires lol..


If anyone has any suggestions on the LCA's or the weld plan, I would love to hear?

Next post should be parts list and what I'm doing with CV axles... ttys

 

[Geotrash]

Love it! Ingenuity and skills all on hand to get something interesting done. Thanks for sharing your journey on it with us. Looking forward to future installments.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

I second that, I would love to see the progress and the outcome of your project.
Alignment specs after you're done would be great, too.
You may have found something needed in the general market for suspension pieces.

 

[Scrappycrow]

AWESOME! This is outside of what my usage for my Tahoe would be, but I'm always interested in seeing stuff like this. FWIW, here's an example of suspension geometry mods I've done.

What ball joints did you go with? If stock, why did you not use something aftermarket, such as components from Howe Racing, as I did in the link above?

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

Love it! Ingenuity and skills all on hand to get something interesting done. Thanks for sharing your journey on it with us. Looking forward to future installments.

Ingenuity, skills, mid-life crisis....all in the same family, right?

Im jus kid....although that did cross my mind when I put truck in Reverse in the in-laws driveway during white-out snow conditions yesterday. No wonder Amanda was suggesting we get going every 30 sec I thought. I cant even see the driveway I thought. I was too caught up in the classifieds for the Akron, Canton, and areas south, looking for off road bumpers and 2.5" coilovers and spare tire carriers... Have to take advantage of my time in more densely populated areas lol...

Thanks Dave.. Next 3-4 days going be taken up with a tree removal job, two huge trees to be exact.. After that I'll need to be on it pretty hard to get the geometry worked out, and at least the mid-travel arms done and trail ready by 3/7 for our next 24hrs of Appalachia event...

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

You may have found something needed in the general market for suspension pieces.

Crossed my mind more than a few times.. Had that talk with the manufacturer also.. imho, it will all come down to how well they function.. Be cool to be able to offer a more affordable bolt-on package with CA's and Coilovers....just so more people can get out there and enjoy the experience

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

AWESOME! This is outside of what my usage for my Tahoe would be, but I'm always interested in seeing stuff like this. FWIW, here's an example of suspension geometry mods I've done.

What ball joints did you go with? If stock, why did you not use something aftermarket, such as components from Howe Racing, as I did in the link above?

AWESOME link! ...and nice work on a sweet ride! My dad used to lament about an AMX (Animal) that had his, and everybody's, number in WV-KY-OH Tri-State area's number on the local bracket racing scene...

What you did was genius.. Looks to me like that +1.1 increase in caster put you right in the sweet spot for those CA's. You could've addressed that a couple different ways, curious why you went with moving the ball joint? Did you account for KingPin angle, scrub radius, Ackerman, Jacking, etc.. or just kinda wing it based on the known positive caster = better straight line tracking? Did you know how much caster/camber moving the ball joint xx.xx" would create beforehand or just wing it?

Part of me wants to do all the calculations and project exactly what the numbers will be up front, in the hope of getting the best possible setup, but Im really short on time now, and based on the feedback Ive received from others and what Ive gathered over the last months, I feel like my plan is pretty solid? 1.5" forward on the LCA's and 1.125" forward on the UCA's should give me +5-7* of caster which is even more important for the outside tire trying to turn uphill on an off-camber slippery sloped trail...

Edit- I guess maybe I've already run the numbers a little.....lol......smh

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

Tire fitting and Approach Angle:

So the Kenda's went on some MB 352 17x9 +18 off-road wheels that used to live on an H2 Hummer. Bought them back in August and they've been collecting dust so long now that I've misplaced the center caps.....smh
I'm sure I'll find them as soon as I finish the garage reorganization project, which will be as soon as this tree job is finished.....weather permitting, Wednesday? I'll be full time build from then until the 5th or 6th of March

Just like every other manufacturer Kenda's 35 x 10.5 x 17 means something else in the real world. In this case it means 34.76 x 11.06 x 17. And thank God I did not get the 35 x 12.50 x 17! I had enough trouble with the 10.50(aka 11.06)! The 12.50 is actually a 13.10 ....I honestly don't know if they and the inner fender liner can physically co-exist under there? I really want to keep as much of the liner as possible in the front. So far I've managed to keep it all. But it's still rubbing in a couple scenarios...

Thought I had it right until I got on the Interstate to go to Cleveland Friday night. And by had it right, I mean: with the washer fluid reservoir laying in the back of my truck lol. After the 2nd 80mph hard rub of the left rear during shock compression from a bridge seam, I was in the Love's Truck Stop parking lot w/my grinder and spud bar prying and cutting. In two hits it had rubbed a 10mm bolt head from black to silver. There was good news though.....no visible sign of the impact on the tire lugs! Plus watching the massive 2"+ x 2"+ lug flex all around while being used as a fulcrum to bend the pinch weld on the front side of the wheel well forward was rather confidence inspiring...

In preparation for some type of front Crash Bar / Stinger, (hopefully like this beauty from this forum!)

(only, maybe with a second bar below it that extends around to protect the fender corners?), I went to work on the atrocious 21.6 degree approach angle our vehicles have.. Made this cut with an angle grinder in less than 60 seconds....

I was honestly concerned about screwing it up for weeks. Just rolled with the body line. Also attached the 3" wide 10' long 1/8" rolled rubber behind the bumper skin to hide the actual bumper(pics below)


The fog lights got a quick zip tie onto the back side of the grill until I find some suitable lighting for what I'm going to be doing, and they actually still function as intended...

Just being excited and caught up in the moment I asked a couple of my buddies what to call this. No disrespect to NorCal, but this was much more than a NorCal lol.. I think we settled on: West Virginia Whittle Job... (yeah, I know we probably need therapy of some kind)

In retro, that's not the best angle to show it, but this opened up 4.5-5" more clearance at the firewall...and I didn't take a pic of the cuts in the top and front section of the well....oops


On the front I scored the backside of the front of the inner fender liners and folded them forward vs cutting them off. Thought it wiser to add another layer of protection under the headlights / intake /coolers. This looked like a great idea in the moment, but there's still contact being made with shoulder lugs in reverse at lock....both ways, so it's going to have to be addressed somehow? Hoping the slight lift I get from the +3" longer Fox 2.5 Coilover's will do it?? We'll see? I'll get it right though! As soon as I'm out of Contractor mode and into fabricator mode. When I'm able to get the full truck inside the garage and slow down and go to work (aka: slow down and think)...

When finished (for that session) I was able to increase the approach angle from 21.6* to 44.9*! And it will get even better when the Control Arms move the wheels 1.375"(ish) forward.

to be cont... gotta go to work

 

[Scrappycrow]

AWESOME link! ...and nice work on a sweet ride! My dad used to lament about an AMX (Animal) that had his, and everybody's, number in WV-KY-OH Tri-State area's number on the local bracket racing scene...

What you did was genius.. Looks to me like that +1.1 increase in caster put you right in the sweet spot for those CA's. You could've addressed that a couple different ways, curious why you went with moving the ball joint? Did you account for KingPin angle, scrub radius, Ackerman, Jacking, etc.. or just kinda wing it based on the known positive caster = better straight line tracking? Did you know how much caster/camber moving the ball joint xx.xx" would create beforehand or just wing it?

Thanks for the compliments! To address some in your response:

1) "You could've addressed that a couple different ways, curious why you went with moving the ball joint?"

You don't mention what "different ways" you think I could have used, but: A) I was not going to fabricate a new upper arm, B) Taller spindles are not available for small-body AMCs, and C) The only available aftermarket suspension is expensive and involves cascading effects. The taller ball joint acts as a taller spindle for camber curve, moving the mount aft was relatively easy for caster, and it was relatively inexpensive.

2) "Did you account for KingPin angle, scrub radius, Ackerman, Jacking, etc.. or just kinda wing it based on the known positive caster = better straight line tracking? Did you know how much caster/camber moving the ball joint xx.xx" would create beforehand or just wing it?"

There was no need to worry about kingpin effects, the change was minor. Scrub radius isn't changed. Ackerman isn't changed. Jacking increased a minor amount. Yes, it was fairly easy to calculate using basic trigonometry, and I was within 20% of my estimate.

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;Thanks for the compliments! To address some in your response:

1) "You could've addressed that a couple different ways, curious why you went with moving the ball joint?"

You don't mention what "different ways" you think I could have used, but: A) I was not going to fabricate a new upper arm, B) Taller spindles are not available for small-body AMCs, and C) The only available aftermarket suspension is expensive and involves cascading effects. The taller ball joint acts as a taller spindle for camber curve, moving the mount aft was relatively easy for caster, and it was relatively inexpensive.

2) "Did you account for KingPin angle, scrub radius, Ackerman, Jacking, etc.. or just kinda wing it based on the known positive caster = better straight line tracking? Did you know how much caster/camber moving the ball joint xx.xx" would create beforehand or just wing it?"

There was no need to worry about kingpin effects, the change was minor. Scrub radius isn't changed. Ackerman isn't changed. Jacking increased a minor amount. Yes, it was fairly easy to calculate using basic trigonometry, and I was within 20% of my estimate.

You were on my mind multiple times yesterday lol.. As we slowly hacked away at these two giant half dead trees in 33 degree weather, I kept thinking to myself "why did you not answer the man's question about which ball joint you went with"... SMH...


Also shouldve worded the others more thoroughly. I was starting to feel the pressure/anxiety of the clock, and wanting to be able to still make the post about the tire fitment/approach angle before I went to work.....and why? IDK lol..

Cool.. I was thinking the ball joint move would have a big impact on the Ackerman?


I think I was also trying to confirm to myself that I dont HAVE to make all this math come out perfectly before building these control arms... Mainly because I don't know what perfect is?

I need to stop over complicating it and just make the lowers x.xx" wider and 1.5" forward, then make the uppers the same additional width but only (somewhere between) 0.75" and 1.25" forward, and that will add a couple degrees of caster and increase Ackerman which is exactly what I want to accomplish...



To answer your question 110% honestly:
I was pretty locked into the Kryptonite... Wanted them because, somehow, I was under the impression they were extra heavy duty tough American made parts! Because I have such a heavy vehicle, because I drive so hard, and because of the type of terrain my truck is going to see more frequently now. I don't remember where it came from?? I just remember thinking their stuff was was tougher....
Was it because of the name? because it cost more? because of the warranty? or was it just clever marketing??

Then I saw a post somewhere that said something very similar to this: Kryptonite Hub / Bearings are just Timken's with a Kryp laser etched logo, a MUCH larger pricetag and a lifetime warranty that still requires you to send in the old one to get the new one.....and my first thought was: Don't be a hater (because that's how we're conditioned to respond)

BUT..... having recently, and completely unintentionally stumbled across the fact that there are companies out there that make ALL of the _____ (auto part) for 2-3-5 or 12 different automotive manufacturers; I had to at least look at them split screen....side-by-side....see what I thought?
Honestly, I think that post is 100% correct. They look identical...

It was a little stunning to learn that something I always thought of as just organic corporate competition, the kind that makes the end product better for the consumer....is a total farce! Things I thought were part of "The American Way" were actually a crock of horse manure..

Things like:
Company X makes ALL the truck axles for the (not so) big 3

Company Y made ALL of the springs for the (suddenly not so innovative) big 3......along with several other well known spring "manufacturers"

for years and years now this has been happening.


Disheartening, to say the least, to learn that ALL those commercials where Truck Brand Z brags throughout the whole commercial about how they can tow circles around Truck A Brand.....and blah blah blahhhh....when ALL ALONG NONE OF THE THEM WERE MAKING THEIR OWN AXLES ANYWAYS?? instead, ALL OF THEM were buying "their" axles from the same axle maker

It's not just axles and springs...

Look at tires.. There are two other Models that have the exact same base tread as Kenda's BRAND NEW design on the M/T2's that I just got- Mastertracker Badlands M/T & Cooper Discoverer STT Pro.....annnd one more that has Kendas's allegedly patented side wall design- Maxxis _____(whatever their called)
And there are NUMEROUS other tire models that share treadpatterns. Are they all from the same factory? Why is one 5x more $$

Moreover, this practice is not just in autoparts!! It's in every single product category there is!

I've said this for a decade + now.... "The factory makes NorthFace from start of morning shift til lunch, then changes software, changes thread colors and makes Freelander from lunch to close... Same factory, same day, quintuple the retail price....
We're just all supposed to be too busy, too caught up in meaninglessness to notice


Oh yeah, and I went with the Mevotech TTX (tough terrain xtreme) and they work like a ball joint should. They allegedly have sintered steel ball that is one piece with the threaded shaft. I went with all their products. Inner and outter tie rod ends, lower balls, hub/bearings, and may use their upper bearings? OR Icon Delta Points? or maybe even Uniballs??

 

[SpareParts]

I installed TTX lower and upper control arms and inner outer tie rods on a 1998 suburban. Mivotec seems like good quality HD stuff to me.
Like everything else though. Some people like em, some don't.

 

[Scrappycrow]

You were on my mind multiple times yesterday lol.. As we slowly hacked away at these two giant half dead trees in 33 degree weather, I kept thinking to myself "why did you not answer the man's question about which ball joint you went with"... SMH...

Cool.. I was thinking the ball joint move would have a big impact on the Ackerman?

Oh yeah, and I went with the Mevotech TTX (tough terrain xtreme) and they work like a ball joint should. They allegedly have sintered steel ball that is one piece with the threaded shaft. I went with all their products. Inner and outter tie rod ends, lower balls, hub/bearings, and may use their upper bearings? OR Icon Delta Points? or maybe even Uniballs??

Thanks for the info on the components!

There's no reason the Ackerman would change with what I did. The steering arms still have the same positional and angular relationship with all other components, as they aren't moving in any direction or by any angle. With what you are doing, however, the Ackerman will indeed change, as the steering arms are moving forward and the steering arms are moving forward along with them, so this is changing the angle between the arms & tie rods and tie rods & rack.

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

Thanks for the info on the components!

There's no reason the Ackerman would change with what I did. The steering arms still have the same positional and angular relationship with all other components, as they aren't moving in any direction or by any angle. With what you are doing, however, the Ackerman will indeed change, as the steering arms are moving forward and the steering arms are moving forward along with them, so this is changing the angle between the arms & tie rods and tie rods & rack.

So I finally checked out Howe Racing... Great looking stuff and a bunch of cool, relatively reasonably priced products.. Definitely in the mix for my upper BJ's.. Visually they look like they provide some extreme angles of operation.. Look a little like the Delta Joints?
I'm definitely in the camp of aftermarket part believer! That philosophy has been burned into me by a half lifetime of trying to get machines and products to do things they weren't necessarily designed to (regularly) do..
The Mevotech TTX Lower BJ's, though not exactly a major deviation from OE, do have some subtle differences... One of the reasons I went with them was the availability of info on their build/components. That stuff is important to me....I guess it gives me peace of mind....until I break it and cuss it and myself for believing all that technical data BS and buying them to start with ! Didn't hurt that they press right in.. One less thing to think about....though im not crazy about the fact that the LCA's don't have a machined groove and a retainer clip to ensure my overweight heavy Chevy doesn't find a way to press them back out...
Sooner than later I'll get to the CV axles (another over-researched part decision); that, in the end, I went the route I went because of the flexibility to switch back and forth between Mid and Long travel, and (again) the availability of in-depth info on their construction and attributes.....and cost(cant forget that)

I was thinking the Ackerman would be affected due to the slight tilt or rotation of your spindle caused by the lateral change in spindle - Upper ball joint attachment position... And it may have changed the actual math? But w/only 5/16" BJ movement, if it did change? it was miniscule

Either way Im glad you shared that link! It's already caused me to think about things from a different angle....that type of motivation truly is priceless!

If anyone has any ideas on the easiest way to cut a retaining clip groove into the vertical wall of the hole n the plate my lower ball joint goes into? I would love to hear...

 

[petethepug]

I am totally geeked out on this thread. So much good info being put into the mainstream discussion and advancing the possibilities of these trucks even further.

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

I am totally geeked out on this thread. So much good info being put into the mainstream discussion and advancing the possibilities of these trucks even further.

Me too PtP! I'm kind of learning on the fly here re: the fine tuning of each aspect of the suspension.

A couple things I feel confident enough saying at this point:
- Everything is a trade off when it comes to custom designing an off-road suspension... Much more so than on-road, but more forgiving (if that makes any sense?). The goal is to find the balance point, the sweet spot or sweeet range that allows the car or truck to be the best it can be at the task you're setting it up to be good at.....and if that task is "Best all around....on a modest budget" you'll need to polish up your part sourcing skills. It's much less complicated to set up for only rock crawling or only higher speeds over rough terrain than it is for both....setting up for both shrinks the sweet range you're tryin to get in....add climbing, descending, traversing, and turning on steep slopes and the window gets even smaller...BUT
- Dont be intimidated...(and always crawl before you go full send!) All the tools needed to learn this stuff are out there. And it beats the heck out of watching TV to unwind. Once I feel like Im in that sweet spot/sweet range I'll post a list of links to useful sites, calculators, etc... Someone could probably ask an A.I. site to design an optimal suspension, and it may very well be able to do it? Almost took that route back in the fall. But after some careful thought, I decided I would rather comprehend the how's and why's of anti-squat, roll center, etc.. vs being given the answers and having no idea what they mean, how one affects another and most importantly how to fine tune the setup? (and good luck tryin convince a couple of my teachers / professors that I just typed that!)

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

A few more parts ordered on Fri 2/21:

Energy Suspension Rack and Pinion bushings - Summit price match $95.xx
Pro-Forged inner tie rods - Summit - $65.xx ea
NTK O2 sensors Up and Downstream - Summit - $170ish for all 4
TEAMWILL silicon Rack and Pinion Bellows, White - jeffazon - $16
TRQ Front Diff Mount Bushings, 4pcs - jeffazon - $45
Fine tip paint marker set for marking bolts once torqued - jeffazon - $7
7-141 Body Mount Bushings, 8pc, x 2 - jeffazon - $44 ea.

Summit could only get the Energy Suspension Body Mount set and it was $230 or so. To best of my knowledge there's 12 mounts under the 2011 Avalanche, Suburban, Yukon XL, Escalade ESV & EXT but I couldn't make myself go out there and roll around on the frozen ground Fri night and confirm. The kit I ordered says it's for a Silverado and says it's an 8 piece kit. From what I could gather the bushings are the same for all GMT-900's and are the same at all locations under the trucks except for the front two under the radiator? I found a video of a guy changing them out on an '05 Tahoe and he was able to use these same bushings at all locations incl under the radiator. I'll report back on this asap lol..

The one thing I could not find a definitive answer about was the bolts. It was late and my eyes were crossing from all the superseded cross-referenced part numbers. (I now know this pain @Scrappycrow https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/minor-rant-superseded-part-numbers.145982/ ). Rock Auto doesn't list them, neither does Summit. They're all over jeffazon for 99-2005 Silverado in an 8 pc set, but I gave up before I could find 07-13...

Best I could tell the two bolts under the Radiator are 14mm and the others 12mm? Also, quit thinking the bolts are 14-2 x 136 and 12-2 x 136?

If anyone (@swathdiver, @Geotrash, @915_Tahoe) has anything that may help out, it would be greatly appreciated..

And it would not surprise me to learn that there are 12 "mount" locations, 8 of them called body Mounts, 2 Rad core supports and 2 something else lol... Im actually leaning towards this theory now... At least it helps me feel better for not figuring it out Fri night...

Gotta go finish the 2nd of the huge trees....snowstorm caused 5 day delay...smh

 

[swathdiver]

I put this together a few years ago but have not looked at it since or purchased any of the parts:

 

[5StarCustmSolutns]

I put this together a few years ago but have not looked at it since or purchased any of the parts:


Starting to think you may be more clutch than the late Jerry West??