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Passenger side was straight just about driver side was fuked up lol toed way outthats not the only hard wood in this thread
"atleast this side isnt as fugged up as the other side..."
Passenger side was straight just about driver side was fuked up lol toed way out
I haven’t thought about that I do have 2” spacers up front also thoughI would think with the lift you have and the large wheel diameters you could run 2 tape measures directly across the rim spokes and use that as a measurement.
I haven’t thought about that I do have 2” spacers up front also though
I got the driver side pretty straight before I drove it to the shop but I never messed with the camber again those dirt king cam plates are a ***** to adjust but once their dialed in good their awesome but my normal alignment guy hates them lol
I’m picking her up after lunchHow were your other angles? Did he give you a print out?
If you can buy or make a set of those tire plates that really makes a HUGE difference with the toe adjustment. Puts you right on the money if you do it right.I should of been done this after I installing my Detriot axle rack and pinion installing the tie rods by counting the threads was a nightmare and had my truck dog walking the tires. Didnt think the alignment shop would alignment my truck with a damaged control arm so I Replaced my driver side upper control arm and set the camber by eye.
I ordered the camber gauge after 2 weeks I finally used it to set the camber to +0.5 . After setting my camber on the driver side. I used two cement blocks and some string and adjust the tie rods on both sides... to be truthful I had been trying to eyeball the toe in and out and the wheels would start to wear and look a little funny after a week. After getting some patients I finally used the string method while making sure the wheel stayed straight and measured both sides using a ruler. Im pretty satisifed with the way the truck drives. Big ups to this thread.
That's good to know! The design was SUPER simple when I saw them for sale. That said I tried the string method using axle stands years ago and was a royal PITA. I thought I had a thrust issue that time though so I did that. I don't know I'd try the string method again unless I had some premade fixtures but don't want to buy that stuff.If you can buy or make a set of those tire plates that really makes a HUGE difference with the toe adjustment. Puts you right on the money if you do it right.
That's good to know! The design was SUPER simple when I saw them for sale. That said I tried the string method using axle stands years ago and was a royal PITA. I thought I had a thrust issue that time though so I did that. I don't know I'd try the string method again unless I had some premade fixtures but don't want to buy that stuff.
Great to know the toe plates work well. I'll make a set!
That's a good process! I was trying to put two strings up.I use a tool to hold the steering wheel centered. Then I string line the d/s front to the rear for a rough base adjustment. Then I use the toe plates to square things up in the front.
And notch out a spot at the bottom for the tire bulge.If you aint got the dough like me wrapping the seatbelt around the steering wheel will work.
I found some plywood wood laying around im constructing some toe in plates at this moment. Just need to cut a little notch for the tape measures. Hopefully they will work lol
I should note, for caster, I spun the wheel one turn each way. The caster spec should be a 20 Degrees one way versus other way (delta of 40 Degrees). I found at one turn of the wheel right then left it was very close to the shop's measurement. I then used one turn as approximately equivalent to 20 degrees. I believe / is my opinion you just need a repeatable practice. If you turn the wheel further you'll get slightly more caster in your measurement. Either way, worked like a champ for me. For turn plates, I just put used motor oil under the wheels. Pretty ghetto but seemed to do the trick.
Any tips are greatly appreciated!