Did I break my throttle body (Low idle)

[Tonyv__]

Lets start back at the basics. It's a little confusing for me to read through threads with everyone tossing out ideas and other guys chiming in about issues they're having. Can get a bit cluttered

You cleaned your throttle body. What was going on that necessitated cleaning?

Did you do a relearn once you cleaned it?

Lay it out in bullet points, what have you tried to remedy the issue?

I felt like the idle was lower than it should be. Shifting from reverse to drive (parallel parking) the idle would drop and almost shut off. But then jump back up. Also the Same when slowly turning into a parking spot the truck will almost shut off. So I did some research and led me to believe that I should start simple. Clean the TB

I removed the TB from engine. Cleaned it with tB cleaner

Replaced IAC

Replaced TPS

Replaced MAP (because I assume they were related sensors)

Replaced gasket to the TB and reinstalled everything.


That didn’t seem to fix anything. Actually made it slightly worse. When the idle drops the truck shuts off now. But will start right back up
And I mentioned to another member that the Replacement IAC is 1/16 of an inch shorter than the factory one I removed so I’m not sure if that may be the issue or what

 

[SnowDrifter]

Just because the throttle body is cleaned doesn't necessarily mean its good

New parts can be bad - TPS

Disconnect your battery, go have dinner or lunch or whatever, then reconnect it. Reset everything and go from there

 

[Tonyv__]

I left out. I didn’t do a relearn. But I did have the battery disconnected for like 15 mins while I was reinstalling everything.

Maybe 15 mins wasn’t long enough.

And is there anyway to test these thing without replacing them to find out ?

 

[SnowDrifter]

You can check it with a multi meter and battery to verify actuation. Check google for pinouts or test procedures

Oh and now that I think about it

1. When you disconnect your battery, touch the positive and negative cables together

2. I think you need a scan tool to do a relearn? Not sure

3. Regarding the throttle body, did you pop apart the gear mechanism and clean+relubricate that? Or the resistive strip?

4. You might try calling ahead to the local parts stores. See if they have a throttle body they'd be willing to let you toss in for the sake of diagnosis. Depends on the place. The Napa local to me lets me do stuff like that but I also shop there a ton. YMMV. You can clean it so it looks like new, but at the end of the day, it's got moving parts and is prone to wearing out

 

[Tonyv__]

You can check it with a multi meter and battery to verify actuation. Check google for pinouts or test procedures

Oh and now that I think about it

1. When you disconnect your battery, touch the positive and negative cables together

2. I think you need a scan tool to do a relearn? Not sure

3. Regarding the throttle body, did you pop apart the gear mechanism and clean+relubricate that? Or the resistive strip?

4. You might try calling ahead to the local parts stores. See if they have a throttle body they'd be willing to let you toss in for the sake of diagnosis. Depends on the place. The Napa local to me lets me do stuff like that but I also shop there a ton. YMMV. You can clean it so it looks like new, but at the end of the day, it's got moving parts and is prone to wearing out

I didn’t take anything apart from the TB besides the sensors. I just scrubbed it good with a toothbrush. So maybe I didn’t do a complete job on that


I’m gonna try to do some extra research to test everything and keep trying to fix it. I appreciate the input and steering me in a good direction.

Thanks again. Will keep updated if anything works

 

[89Suburban]

When you take a throttle body with a lot of miles on it and has gunk build up around the back of the throttle plate bore and you clean it, it has a huge effect on the idling afterwards. At least in my experience. That vehicle's computer has adjusted over the many miles to account for the gunk buildup affecting the airflow at idle. It doesn't even have to look that thick of buildup. The "battery disconnect relearn" is worth a first try but not guaranteed to work. Most likely has to be taken to a shop to be plugged into their expensive scanner to force an idle reset.

Usually after you clean a very dirty TB it will actually idle higher than lower. So not sure what exactly is going on with your situation. This is when you have to bite the bullet and pay the $80 bucks to get it scanned to see exactly what is going on. Unless you are lucky and know a mechanic that will do it for you for free.

You have no engine lights or codes coming on?

 

[Tonyv__]

When you take a throttle body with a lot of miles on it and has gunk build up around the back of the throttle plate bore and you clean it, it has a huge effect on the idling afterwards. At least in my experience. That vehicle's computer has adjusted over the many miles to account for the gunk buildup affecting the airflow at idle. It doesn't even have to look that thick of buildup. The "battery disconnect relearn" is worth a first try but not guaranteed to work. Most likely has to be taken to a shop to be plugged into their expensive scanner to force an idle reset.

Usually after you clean a very dirty TB it will actually idle higher than lower. So not sure what exactly is going on with your situation. This is when you have to bite the bullet and pay the $80 bucks to get it scanned to see exactly what is going on. Unless you are lucky and know a mechanic that will do it for you for free.

You have no engine lights or codes coming on?

No codes coming from CEL. I do have ABS codes. I have a scanner to read codes so I can confirm the CEL is not broken



And unfortunately I live in a city where there are more slimy mechanics then there are honest ones.. even the mechanics your friends recommend you too aren’t all that honest.

 

[89Suburban]

No codes coming from CEL. I do have ABS codes. I have a scanner to read codes so I can confirm the CEL is not broken



And unfortunately I live in a city where there are more slimy mechanics then there are honest ones.. even the mechanics your friends recommend you too aren’t all that honest.

I just noticed you are in Philly. I live in King of Prussia. If you ever make it out my way this is the guy to scan it for you, great dude. Little ma and pa shop, caters to the poor working man. He is over the bridge in Norristown. He did mine for free that last time I was having a misfire I could not track down. I only been dealing with him for about 6 months but I have nothing but praise for the guy. Might be worth the trip for you. Call ahead if you can to give him a heads up. He knows his shit pretty good.

http://www.kandkautorepair.com/satisfaction.html

 

[Tonyv__]

I just noticed you are in Philly. I live in King of Prussia. If you ever make it out my way this is the guy to scan it for you, great dude. Little ma and pa shop, caters to the poor working man. He is over the bridge in Norristown. He did mine for free that last time I was having a misfire I could not track down. I only been dealing with him for about 6 months but I have nothing but praise for the guy. Might be worth the trip for you. Call ahead if you can to give him a heads up. He knows his shit pretty good.

http://www.kandkautorepair.com/satisfaction.html

I appreciate it man. Definitely close enough.

 

[89Suburban]

I appreciate it man. Definitely close enough.

Hope it works out, let us know.