Dashboard Replacement 2013 GMT900 Yukon/Tahoe

[t_bergman]

A Pillar on the driver's side.

And at this point you should have everything back together, go connect the battery back up and crank her up!

Everything came back to life as expected and I did a quick drive around to ensure nothing was rattling, so far so good and looks much better than the stupid cap.

Overall extremely happy with the result, I'm glad I did this myself as I was able to clean under the dash and I was certainly much more gentle on the trim pieces than a service tech would be.

I hope this will be of use to others as they take on this project, it's a long process but it's time intensive rather than complex.

I want to thank the forum as well for all of the advice and other technical writeups which are here for other members to enjoy.

 

[t_bergman]

Change Log:

8/31/2022 - P/N of 23224747 is now 19331336 per @CrashTestDummy

 

[Geotrash]

What a fabulous service to this community to do this writeup! Thank you!! I will be doing this job in my 2007 over the winter.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

FYI, the main dash panel P/N 23224747 noted in this thread has apparently been replaced with P/N 19331336. Pretty much same price, IIRC. I have on on order, since I knee-jerked and ordered the Dorman front panel for our 2010 PPV.

 

[Big Mama]

As stated by @Geotrash this is outstanding and hopefully can be saved as a sticky by the mods. Lots of us with 900’s with a bad dash. Thanks for documenting this including pictures.

 

[iamdub]

I wanted to share with the community my process of how I replaced the dashboard in my 2013 Yukon XL 2500; there seems to be a lot of good info already shared but I was never able to find a complete guide to the process. This is simply how I was able to accomplish the replacement and is not necessarily the right or wrong way, if you are unsure, please consult your local GM service center.

Before you get started, ensure that you have the following:

• The entire day free, I started at 9am and it took all the way until 6pm with an hour for lunch. I took my time and labeled every set of screws which came out and cleaned/vacuumed the parts as they went back in.
• A 2nd person to help lift out the old dash, lift in the new dash, and provide moral support.
• 10mm, 7mm, T6 torx, Phillips head, and ratchets with extensions. I have the following from Home Deport which includes everything needed except the T6. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Mechanics-Tool-Set-290-Piece-H290MTS/312945780
• Some sort of foam to shove into the front defroster while working, on a completely unrelated subject I now have a video borescope and flexible magnetic tool grabber.
• Be prepared to break something, the plastic pieces are older at this point, and I was mentally prepared to break something accidentally which I’d needed to order for replacement later.
• A large working space, I wanted to be able to spread everything out as I took things apart and pulled the two other cars out of the garage to do the work.
• Large lights and battery-operated lights to see everything. I have this two piece set from Amazon that worked great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9X19G1
• A good trim removal kit, I bought a second to ensure I could pry with even force on the larger pieces. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRNKY8P
• A couple large beach towels, I covered my seats and center console to ensure I didn’t scratch the leather.

YouTube Videos watched and reviewed during the process:

• specifically at 6:30 to watch how they got the dashboard back into the vehicle.

The GM part number for the dash is 23224747, this is a non-center speaker ebony interior and 23224733 for the extension. I went with a Dorman product for the extension which is 926-336.

Before I began, I separated the key from the remote and shifted into M while also setting the parking brake. I then disconnected the battery and held the horn for 30+ seconds to ensure there was no more electricity in the system prior to removing the air bags.

Getting started you can see that I have the cap on, I initially thought I would need to cut horizontally the cap in two, but I started to pry it apart using a larger trim tool and the glue used was easy to get apart.

View attachment 378683

Before fully pulling the cap, I removed both A pillar trim pieces.

View attachment 378684

View attachment 378685

There are two bolts located in the assist handle on the passenger side which needs to be removed, take care on both sides as the speaker wire does not have a lot of maneuvering space.

View attachment 378686

View attachment 378687

Dooood. Bless you for this write-up. I had to go through and "love" each and every post.

 

[992dr]

t_bergman, you sir are an angel put in the TYF forum for a reason.
Thank You for doing what you did, it is most certainly appreciated.
I for sure will be looking over this thread quite a bit for when I do my dash. I'm going to have to hot staple mine together before my pieces start falling in haha.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Very nice write-up and thank you! I changed my dash a couple years ago but I failed to be nice and document it.

On another note, those of you with gps, I had zero signal when I fired it up. I thought I missed a plug and took it BACK apart. Nothing was missed. After reassembly, I drove it up the road and it all started working after a few miles.

 

[petethepug]

2013 2500 is definitely worth all the love you gave it. Getting into the frame of mind to document the process as well as take on the project is a double doozy.

Thanks for the write up, it’s a gift!

 

[BG1988]

As stated by @Geotrash this is outstanding and hopefully can be saved as a sticky by the mods. Lots of us with 900’s with a bad dash. Thanks for documenting this including pictures.

but at what point this was a manufacturing defect out of the factory?

 

[Geotrash]

but at what point this was a manufacturing defect out of the factory?

It doesn't matter. The factory warranty has long since lapsed.

 

[bfields3]

@t_bergman Thanks for the great write up! I’m planning to tackle the dashskin removal and oem dash replacement as well. Can you please provide your thoughts/advice on how to remove the dashskin from the old cracked dash?

 

[t_bergman]

Thanks for the great write up! I’m planning to tackle the dashskin removal and oem dash replacement as well. Can you please provide your thoughts/advice on how to remove the dashskin from the old cracked dash?

Resurfacing this thread to provide an update, everything is holding well with the new part number and it has about 3k miles on it.

From a removal standpoint, get a cheap trim tool set to pry with. It's going to scratch the tools but it should be the best way to remove the dash skin cover.

 

[SpyShops212]

I changed my 2008 Escalade with the 2012 platinum ebony top.

 

[jared999]

That's a great write up and I second the use of plastic trim tools. they go a long way.

For those interested, the process puts you about 1/3 - 1/2 of the way to pulling out your dash to remove the hvac box and replace your bad actuators / heater core etc. I also used +20 zip lock bags and labeled them so I would not lose screws.

 

[mikez71]

For those interested, the process puts you about 1/3 - 1/2 of the way to pulling out your dash to remove the hvac box and replace your bad actuators / heater core etc.

Something to look forward to!

Definitely an AWESOME writeup! Saved me much frustration, broken plastic pieces, and time I'm sure! Thank you @t_bergman!

Jared999, if there are any tricky parts about HVAC removal, please let us know!

 

[BabushkinMechanic]

Which 3rd part company did you order dash from, gmparts.com ect ? I’m having to replace mine I busted the whole thing out lol. A lot of sites that sell oem parts been deemed as scammers for delivering wrong parts/broken no refund ect.

 

[t_bergman]

Which 3rd part company did you order dash from, gmparts.com ect ? I’m having to replace mine I busted the whole thing out lol. A lot of sites that sell oem parts been deemed as scammers for delivering wrong parts/broken no refund ect.

The dashboard I ordered directly from a GM dealer; I didn't want anything to happen to it in shipping and would rather be able to reject it at the dealer if it came in damaged.

I paid $632.50 with tax for part 23224747; most of the online stores are around $450 but then it's $200-$350 to ship it to you which ends up being more expensive.

I doubt your local dealer will match the online prices, but they may be able to work out some kind of deal.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

on a completely unrelated subject I now have a video borescope and flexible magnetic tool grabber.

 

[alpha_omega]

For anyone with a bad memory or who will spend more than one day doing this job, it may help to grab a carboard box and draw a mock-up of the dash. Then put the screws into the general area where they came out of, since not all of them are the same. Just a trick I learned from my old man many moons ago. You can also use a magnetic mat, I have one that doubles as a whiteboard, so you can draw on it and set the screws head down in the General location they came from on your drawing.
I’ve done this with everything from TV’s, iPhone screen/battery replacements and the dash on my Yukon.