Cutting rotors for new brakes

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Illnasty

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So this was weird. I brought my truck into the dealership (yea I know, I just moved and don’t know a good mechanic here yet) for an oil change and brakes. The service agent told me that for new brakes they need to cut the rotors. I have never ever heard that before! I get it if there’s grinding or the current pads are completely worn you need to cut the rotors or get new ones but cut them just because you are getting new pads. Is that a thing? I haven’t looked at myself in the mirror today but stupid might be written on my forehead. WTH!
 

OR VietVet

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When applying brakes, what slows you down is friction and friction builds heat and that heat transfers in to the rotor and the vent fins in the rotor helps dissipate that heat while they are spinning. Over time the rotor will warp and also get grit imbedded in the surface of the rotor. To make sure the new pads have a clean smooth surface to "seat" in to, the shops will machine the surfaces of the rotor. The thing is, federal mpg mandates have caused the vehicle manufacturers to cut weight anywhere they can. Rotors are one of those places. Thinner means less weight. The new rotor starts out thinner and then to machine them can cause the thickness to get too close to minimum thickness spec or under that spec. That means the rotor will not dissipate heat as well and will warp quicker and cause brake pedal pulsation that you feel in your foot and in extreme cases, causes a front end or even rear end shake. Over the years I have machined rotors on all types of rigs and even drums. I have also machined rotors with them still mounted on the hub and that is a whole other experience to set up and deal with.

IMO, replace with new rotors at every brake job. Use the cost of what the machining would be to go to help pay for new rotors. A Stealership may say, "we don't credit back machining fees if you buy new rotors". Hence the name Stealership.
 
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OR VietVet

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Its a thing, I dont agree with it.. But it is a thing. Went 200k on my Envoy on stock rotors, never had them turned, still stopped without pulse or vibration.
Sometimes you get lucky like that. I have seen it before. If I was doing the brake work, I would set up your rotors on the brake lathe and spin them and measure the run out. If is an acceptable amount, I would then use my finish tool and but a nice clean swirl finish on the rotor surface and that helps clean the grit out as well, and then clean clean clean with brake clean and wipe off with a clean rag. I like new quality rotors but what you say can work.
 

Bill 1960

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IMO it depends on the circumstances. As @PNW VietVet said, newer rotors don’t have much meat on them. If they’re flat, and not having runout issues, I don’t mind just cleaning them up and installing new pads.

OTOH if there’s grooves or warpage it’s time to measure and decide between the lathe or just buy new.

If I was running a shop, I’d probably cut them all. After all it’s someone else’s money and nobody wants a comeback.
 

badtothe bone

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I don't know where you are from, but in Western Pennsylvania, we don't cut rotors, we throw them away! A new rotor tends to last about 2 years, then the road salt eats the rotors and once a rust ridge builds up around the outside edge - they are junk.
The reason why cutting rotors is a bad idea is because when rotors gets hot they tend to crack. You can't really see the cracks, but if you magnaflux them or penetrant die check them - they are there.
The problem is - the new rotor / new pads will last about 50,000 miles if you have a lot of highway miles it can be more or less - depending upon how much you use the brakes.
Here in the mountains, you use the brakes all the time.
Putting new pads on old rotors is bad business, because the cracks in the rotors opens up as the rotor gets hot. This acts like a small lathe and removes material each time the brakes are applied. So the original pads might get you 35,000 to 50,000 and the replacement pads might last 18,000 miles.
So you might say - oh those were just junk pads, im going to buy better pads but no rotors.
Again, you get another 18,000 miles and they are worn out.
The rotors are a throw away item, a cheap piece of insurance, that tells you - if you have an emergency - my vehicle will stop! Will yours? If the rotors rattles when you apply the brakes or the rust ridge migrates into the pad surface and only part of the pad touches the rotor then the dam thing won't stop. Its cause and effect.. maybe you Cali Boys don't have that problem, but it is a real problem here in the rust belt!
 
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Illnasty

Illnasty

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I don't know where you are from, but in Western Pennsylvania, we don't cut rotors, we throw them away! A new rotor tends to last about 2 years, then the road salt eats the rotors and once a rust ridge builds up around the outside edge - they are junk.
The reason why cutting rotors is a bad idea is because when rotors gets hot they tend to crack. You can't really see the cracks, but if you magnaflux them or penetrant die check them - they are there.
The problem is - the new rotor / new pads will last about 50,000 miles if you have a lot of highway miles it can be more or less - depending upon how much you use the brakes.
Here in the mountains, you use the brakes all the time.
Putting new pads on old rotors is bad business, because the cracks in the rotors opens up as the rotor gets hot. This acts like a small lathe and removes material each time the brakes are applied. So the original pads might get you 35,000 to 50,000 and the replacement pads might last 18,000 miles.
So you might say - oh those were just junk pads, im going to buy better pads but no rotors.
Again, you get another 18,000 miles and they are worn out.
The rotors are a throw away item, a cheap piece of insurance, that tells you - if you have an emergency - my vehicle will stop! Will yours? If the rotors rattles when you apply the brakes or the rust ridge migrates into the pad surface and only part of the pad touches the rotor then the dam thing won't stop. Its cause and effect.. maybe you Cali Boys don't have that problem, but it is a real problem here in the rust belt!
Solid reply. Thanks dude. I’m in NJ and 80% of my driving is on cruise control and I’m at 50k on the original rotors and brakes, spot on there. I’m going to replace the rotors and brakes and be done with it but I’m thinking about going to the Power Stops and ceramic pads.
 

OR VietVet

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You can get ceramic pads that are GM. If you like how long your brakes have lasted and had no problems, why switch unless you just want to?
 

swathdiver

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So this was weird. I brought my truck into the dealership (yea I know, I just moved and don’t know a good mechanic here yet) for an oil change and brakes. The service agent told me that for new brakes they need to cut the rotors. I have never ever heard that before! I get it if there’s grinding or the current pads are completely worn you need to cut the rotors or get new ones but cut them just because you are getting new pads. Is that a thing? I haven’t looked at myself in the mirror today but stupid might be written on my forehead. WTH!
It's SOP for professionals. They first check them to make sure they are within spec to cut. Sometimes broke, we did pad slaps in the driveway and got away with it because the rotors were not warped but a good shop is not going to do that.

In the heavy equipment shop I worked at, we even cut brand new rotors or put a cross patch on them to assist with bite, if memory serves.
 

badtothe bone

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Solid reply. Thanks dude. I’m in NJ and 80% of my driving is on cruise control and I’m at 50k on the original rotors and brakes, spot on there. I’m going to replace the rotors and brakes and be done with it but I’m thinking about going to the Power Stops and ceramic pads.
I once bought Performance Friction Carbon Metallic for a 2009 Avalanche and believe it or not the GM pads lasted longer..
I bought a set of rotors off the internet - came with matching pads - and those $15 generic pads out stopped and outlasted any GM pad I ever owned.
One set I bought for my 06 Avalanche, wasn't machined right, and they sent me a replacement set, and they are still in the package out in the garage and I no longer own the vehicle.
Every person that drove the 06 asked where I got the brake pads from because it stopped so good..
 

badtothe bone

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The best rotors I ever bought were the ones sold on EBAY - they come in a GREEN BOX and were anodized - except that they did not coat them between the fins. Slotted and Cross Drilled and I don't think they were more then $150 for the pair. the Hart rotors looks nice, but are a little too pricy for me..
 

Tonyrodz

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Bought these a few weeks ago. So far I'm loving them. I also have the 07-14 brake upgrade. 20210810_163120.jpg
 

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