Cranks, turns over, runs, then dies (lots of codes from the Tech 2)

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kronus

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Odd no start issue. Batteries (2) are good with verified 12.7 volts when the motor is off. The starter engages and the motor turns over attempting to run, but dies almost instantly. I'll cycle through starting the vehicle with the key fob or the actual key and eventually it'll start and run. As soon as I turn it off, it starts the whole cycle again.

For a while I thought it was my theft deterrent module, and when I initially connected the Tech 2 (first time using it) it did pull this code:
B3060 Unprogrammed transponder identification code received (Theft deterrent module)
However, I cleared the code and it has not returned.

Using my Tech 2, these are all of the codes currently being thrown:

P0562 System voltage low (TCM)
P0332 Knock sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 (ECM)
P0060 HO2S heater resistance bank 2 sensor 2 (ECM)
P0059 HO2S heater resistance bank 2 sensor 1 (ECM)
P0054 HO2S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 2 (ECM)
P0053 HO2S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 1 (ECM)
B3779 Air flow control 9 feedback circuit signal invalid
U0199 Lost communication with door control module A (Passenger door switch)
U0155 Lost communication with instrument panel cluster (Passenger door switch)
U0155 Lost communication with instrument panel cluster (Drive door switch)
B2555 Passenger compartment lamp control circuit short to battery (Passenger door switch)

With all of the lost communication and low voltage codes, I'm wondering if I need to pull the main fuse panel and start checking for corrosion...
 

BG1988

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Sounds like a broken wire somehwere

see P0562 check the battery or alternator might be bad?

check the grounds
 
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OR VietVet

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What @BG1988 said, especially the grounds.


If this happened all at once, was it after any work you did recently?
 
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kronus

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Sounds like a broken wire somehwere

see P0562 check the battery or alternator might be bad?

check the grounds
Definitely not the batteries. I recently replaced them (less than a year ago) and I have confirmed on multiple occasions that the batteries hold a steady ~12.7 volts even after sitting for a week or more without running. The alternator is possible, but that shouldn't affect the cars ability to start since the batteries are still good.
 
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kronus

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What @BG1988 said, especially the grounds.


If this happened all at once, was it after any work you did recently?

Yes and no. The car has had some communication issues with the transmission as seen in this thread Leaking fluid from 16 pin connector, but I replaced the connector and the communication issues and fluid leak stopped. It was another 2-3 months before the truck started doing this thing.

And for reference, the previous issue would prevent the truck from attempting to start at all. No starter engagement, no clicks, no nothing, all while having full power to the dash and other electronics in the car. That issue has completely disappeared and been replaced with the current one.

I just read the link you posted and I'm going to pursue replacing both the positive and negative cables for good measure.
 

swathdiver

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Odd no start issue. Batteries (2) are good with verified 12.7 volts when the motor is off. The starter engages and the motor turns over attempting to run, but dies almost instantly. I'll cycle through starting the vehicle with the key fob or the actual key and eventually it'll start and run. As soon as I turn it off, it starts the whole cycle again.

For a while I thought it was my theft deterrent module, and when I initially connected the Tech 2 (first time using it) it did pull this code:
B3060 Unprogrammed transponder identification code received (Theft deterrent module)
However, I cleared the code and it has not returned.

Using my Tech 2, these are all of the codes currently being thrown:

P0562 System voltage low (TCM)
P0332 Knock sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 (ECM)
P0060 HO2S heater resistance bank 2 sensor 2 (ECM)
P0059 HO2S heater resistance bank 2 sensor 1 (ECM)
P0054 HO2S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 2 (ECM)
P0053 HO2S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 1 (ECM)
B3779 Air flow control 9 feedback circuit signal invalid
U0199 Lost communication with door control module A (Passenger door switch)
U0155 Lost communication with instrument panel cluster (Passenger door switch)
U0155 Lost communication with instrument panel cluster (Drive door switch)
B2555 Passenger compartment lamp control circuit short to battery (Passenger door switch)

With all of the lost communication and low voltage codes, I'm wondering if I need to pull the main fuse panel and start checking for corrosion...
Battery would be the first place I'd look. Check the grounds and connections but use the Tech-2 to look at the health of the battery. On the BCM side, look into the start up state of charge and state of charge and its temperature while in use. In the south, we're lucky if our batteries last three or four years these days.

I nursed mine along for almost an additional year with the aid of the Tech-2 but when the truck sat and the charge dropped into the 60 percent range it was time to put the battery out to pasture.
 
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kronus

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Battery would be the first place I'd look. Check the grounds and connections but use the Tech-2 to look at the health of the battery. On the BCM side, look into the start up state of charge and state of charge and its temperature while in use. In the south, we're lucky if our batteries last three or four years these days.

I nursed mine along for almost an additional year with the aid of the Tech-2 but when the truck sat and the charge dropped into the 60 percent range it was time to put the battery out to pasture.
Maybe a stupid question, but how do you do that? I played with the Tech-2 for an hour or so, but there just didn't seem like there was that much stuff I could access with it. I should probably look for an online tutorial on how to use the Tech 2.
 

swathdiver

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Maybe a stupid question, but how do you do that? I played with the Tech-2 for an hour or so, but there just didn't seem like there was that much stuff I could access with it. I should probably look for an online tutorial on how to use the Tech 2.
The menus are often different between years. However, you go into the Body Control Module menu and then into the BCM menu within that to Charging Info.

It takes time to find your way around in these things. I would drop my kids off at volleyball and sit in the truck for an hour playing with the Tech-2 for months and months and 4 years later I'm still learning things.

This pathing, while it may not be exact, it should help you become more familiar with where things are.
 

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  • Pathing - GM Tech-2 - 2014.pdf
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kronus

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The menus are often different between years. However, you go into the Body Control Module menu and then into the BCM menu within that to Charging Info.

It takes time to find your way around in these things. I would drop my kids off at volleyball and sit in the truck for an hour playing with the Tech-2 for months and months and 4 years later I'm still learning things.

This pathing, while it may not be exact, it should help you become more familiar with where things are.
Wow, that's incredible! Thank you for that. there is WAY more in the pathing than I saw while messing around. Question on entering vehicle info: the Tech 2 does not auto detect the vehicle (year, make, model), correct? Because I obviously knew to go into the truck menu, but then it wasn't super clear about how to get to a Tahoe. (I wish I had the thing in front of me so I wasn't so vague with my description.) And would a PPV model have a bunch of the pathing locked/blocked?
 

swathdiver

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Wow, that's incredible! Thank you for that. there is WAY more in the pathing than I saw while messing around. Question on entering vehicle info: the Tech 2 does not auto detect the vehicle (year, make, model), correct? Because I obviously knew to go into the truck menu, but then it wasn't super clear about how to get to a Tahoe. (I wish I had the thing in front of me so I wasn't so vague with my description.) And would a PPV model have a bunch of the pathing locked/blocked?
No, it does not auto detect. You have to build the truck every time you turn it on. When you get to the menu with the numbers, select 1 as your vehicle is RWD. It would be a 2 if you have a 4x4. There are also modules listed that are not installed on your truck so when you select them you'll get a no communication error message.

The menus between our 2004, 2009 and 2012 trucks is very different even though the latter two are essentially the same drivetrain and computer wise.
 

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