Budget rebuild items?

[Charlie207]

Out of curiosity, I bled the hoist bottle jack of the air trapped inside, and redid the level test. It's been holding rock-steady for almost 20 hours now.

Also, ordered a new torque converter: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ccv-tqbu60fhd

 

[Charlie207]

No Summit, thank you.

VEGE BU60FHD (fixed typo)

 

[Scrappycrow]

VEGE BUFHD60

It's BU60FHD.

 

[Charlie207]

It's BU60FHD.

Yeah, that.

It's also $41 to ship the core back, to get the $150 core charge reimbursed. Lame.

 

[Scrappycrow]

It's also $41 to ship the core back, to get the $150 core charge reimbursed. Lame.

Is that shipping back to Summit or to the manufacturer?

 

[Charlie207]

Is that shipping back to Summit or to the manufacturer?

Summit Core Collection c/o CVC (per the return shipping info).

 

[Charlie207]

Bit of an update for posterity.

Old engine out:

New VEGE BU60FHD torque converter installed, along with new TC cooler lines.

New engine staged:

 

[Charlie207]

Long-block installed:

All accessories installed.

Installed updated BBP tune, but am running into persistent P0010 (cam sensor) code. Assume it has to do with the VVT-delete, and am hoping a revised tune helps deal with that. Perhaps they have to disable the CEL for a missing cam phaser error, to prevent the issue.

Also seeing ABC/TSC lights on dash. I've checked both front wheel speed sensor connectors, and they look good. Some googling has shown a common P0010 & ABS issue after a cam swap/VVT delete, so I'm not sure.

I've been able to sporadically fire the engine with the 6.0 basemap, and it's a pretty lumpy idle. However, after the engine warms up it won't restart.

 

[Charlie207]

Hey now... they sent the revised tune. It addressed the cam idle quality and P0010 error message deletion.

After flashing the tune the engine fired right up, and restarted every time I turned the ignition on/off, after letting it idle for a while to come up to temp, and cycle the fans.

After the only work call I have to actually attend each week at 4-5pm I'm going to button up the body panels, and go for a rip. (fingers crossed)

https://imgur.com/1WHUlRW

 

[strutaeng]

That's awesome! Great job!

 

[Charlie207]

Buttoned most of the stuff back up (minus the splash guard/skid plates) and went for a short drive to get everything up to temperature. Nothing blew up, and everything seemed to work. When I got home the ATF was up to temp so I could check that level, and it was low enough to use up the quart of Dexron-VI I had laying around, so I'll have to limp down to the local parts store to get some more.

 

[Charlie207]

Current issue is that the ABS, TCS, and Brake lights are blaring in my face. I've checked the two front wheel speed sensor connectors, and they're tight.

I don't see anything obvious, and am worried that I may have inadvertently cut, crushed, or yanked on a wire or harness while removing/replacing the engines.

At least my oil pressure is higher in this engine.

 

[89Suburban]

Do you have a scan tool to look for the codes?

 

[Charlie207]

Do you have a scan tool to look for the codes?

I don't, but my friend (a full-time mechanic w/huge garage bay & lift at his house) has a SnapOn (FapOff?) scan tool.

 

[89Suburban]

I don't, but my friend (a full-time mechanic w/huge garage bay & lift at his house) has a SnapOn (FapOff?) scan tool.

Is it driving funny? Any noise or vibration from the ABS kicking in?

 

[Charlie207]

Is it driving funny? Any noise or vibration from the ABS kicking in?

No. When I close my eyes while driving down the road it feels the same as before the engine swap.

The brakes feel the same, aka normal, when I press them easy or hard. I had to re-bed the pads/rotors because they got that this surface rust from sitting exposed through some rainstorms while doing the engine swap.

 

[Charlie207]

I've watched this video about 10 times, because it's testing almost exactly what I did to my Yukon (stockish 5.3 to 6.0 w/LBT cam).

 

[Charlie207]

So, you have no experience? Unless you have a friend with experience, you may be spending extra “trial and error” resources on this project, i.e. special tools, incorrect parts, labor time. This is not your grandpas chainsaw. Not to mention a shop for all this fun to take place.

The engine is at almost 8000 miles, and running great with no leaks or incorrect parts blowing up.

 

[Charlie207]

Ordered some new parts:

 

[Charlie207]

https://imgur.com/UMaBjUb

https://imgur.com/BBX1P93