Bose radio issues. No sound when cold. Randomly powers off for a few seconds.

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asand

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OEM look is overrated. Newer trucks have OEM touchscreens anyway. I replaced a Pioneer touchscreen with an ATOTO Android unit. I bypassed the BLOSE amp and tapped power right off the fuse box. No courtesy timer, no chime, no nothing. Now I have a HU that just works, AND has navigation.
 
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Burban22

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update

Found another oem GM radio. Same Delphi part number as my current radio. Installed it and of course got the theft lock message. Tried a VCX nano tech2win from eBay and it would not clear the Vin no matter what I tried even rolled back the tech2 software from to version 30 which is supposed to be able to write or clear vin info, still no go. Returned that.

Watched Dr. shock video on YouTube and you can simply unsolder your EEPROM chip and move to other radio if you have another radio that is the same part number. I did this and replacement radio boots up no theft lock even has my stations preprogrammed since they reside in the EEPROM chip.

Radio now works tested it down to 25° F and I get sound.

Only existing issue so far is radio will randomly reboot like the old one did and get codes:
U1000 class 2 data link malfunction U1016 lost communications with PCM.

Guessing I have another module causing GMLAN issues.
 

LtFire340

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I have a 2004 Z71 Tahoe and replaced the radio with aftermarket. I'm also having the same intermittent issues. I've been thinking it may be linked to the timer or relay of some sort. Where is the timer located? I have no other issues with chimes, etc...just radio will come on when it gets ready. It works more often than not.
 
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Burban22

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I have a 2004 Z71 Tahoe and replaced the radio with aftermarket. I'm also having the same intermittent issues. I've been thinking it may be linked to the timer or relay of some sort. Where is the timer located? I have no other issues with chimes, etc...just radio will come on when it gets ready. It works more often than not.
Is your system Bose? If so, are you still using the BOSE amp or did you bypass it when you went with the aftermarket radio?

If you’re still using the BOSE amp (installed under center console) that’s another common failure point.
 
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Gerardo2024

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I have a 2004 Suburban and am having the same issues as mentioned above. I pulled the BOSE amp and am going to the junkyard tomorrow to look for a replacement. Is there a way to test the amp to see if it is good or bad?
 
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Burban22

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I have a 2004 Suburban and am having the same issues as mentioned above. I pulled the BOSE amp and am going to the junkyard tomorrow to look for a replacement. Is there a way to test the amp to see if it is good or bad?
I thought my no sound when cold issue was the bose amp but turns out it was the radio head unit in the dash. I tested this by bringing the radio in the house overnight while everything else was outside in the cold. Installed warm radio and everything worked fine.

You can just swap bose amps with a junkyard relacement but they need to look the same on the outside. The repacement I found was a different part number than my original but it worked fine when I swapped it in.
 
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Burban22

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I am still getting U1000 and U1016 codes even though my sound is now working when cold. Also getting Rear Seat Entertainment comm issues. I get some static squealing noise from the rear speakers when truck is first started so I am going to swap out the RSE control panel with a junkyard spare and see if that changes anything. RSE is the sound and heat controls on the back of the center console.
 

Gerardo2024

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I swapped out the amp for one from the junkyard. It looked identical and bolted right in. Did not work. So I guess I am on to the radio.
 

uae4ever2001

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Having similar issues and I live in the middle east.

Nothing works as there is no audio from the radio, even though i replaced amp and radio. Worked for a while then sub stopped working, then completely stopped working (after i left the battery off for a bit). all i hear is low static like a thud noise once instead of chimes when i open the door.

Also recently the driver door controls stopped working for a while then worked when I turned off and on again. Now recently started getting service airbag light. I just bought it recently and already spent too much in repairs (brake booster, used transfer-case, 1 ball joint plus a lower arm, rod ends and the joints and some bushes). service 4WD showing up now and then when hot i think as it goes away after ive switched off the vehicle for a bit. Think i got scammed.
your problem most likely ground or chassis wire problem check the wires and cables before changing parts
 

uae4ever2001

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my Tahoe 4 speakers stopped working after paint job done checked all fuses (good) i am going buy 4 set of speakers from saja used parts hopefully will fix my problem.i will update you if problem solved
 

TollKeeper

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4 Speakers? That would be very odd for all of them to fail at the same time.

If you have a Bose system, I would check to make sure the amp is getting power, and signal.

Worst case, I would take out a speaker, and try to power it thru a home stereo. If it works, you know its not the speakers.
 
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Burban22

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Even with a completely different radio, which I soldered the security chip from my old radio on too the replacement so it wouldn’t be locked. I’m back to no sound until the cab warms up lol. So apparently common problem in this generation of GM radios. If I keep the radio indoors overnight and install it, everything works fine.
 

4Eyedturd

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It was 50* this morning and I had no sound. I cranked the heater all the way up and halfway to work I had enough heat the radio gave a kind of crackle/pop and I had sound. I may go over every solder joint this weekend for grins
 
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Burban22

Burban22

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It was 50* this morning and I had no sound. I cranked the heater all the way up and halfway to work I had enough heat the radio gave a kind of crackle/pop and I had sound. I may go over every solder joint this weekend for grins
Yep, that’s the same thing mine does. Driving in silence, you get a loud crackle pop and then you get sound once the cab has warmed up.

Earlier in this thread, I had heated the entire board of my original radio up to 360° with a heat gun. This solve the cold issue only for a week or so and that’s when I decided to go to another radio, which worked for several months but now that winter is back or back to the same, it’s cold no sound.
 
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mountie

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Yep, that’s the same thing mine doe. Driving in silence, you get a loud crackle pop and then you get sound once the cab has warmed up.

Earlier in this thread, I had heated the entire board of my original radio up to 360° with a heat gun. This solve the cold issue only for a week or so and that’s when I decided to go to another radio, which worked for several months but now that winter is back or back to the same, it’s cold no sound.
A tiny crack in a solder joint ? Then heat swells the crack ?
 

Fless

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Yep, that’s the same thing mine doe. Driving in silence, you get a loud crackle pop and then you get sound once the cab has warmed up.

Earlier in this thread, I had heated the entire board of my original radio up to 360° with a heat gun. This solve the cold issue only for a week or so and that’s when I decided to go to another radio, which worked for several months but now that winter is back or back to the same, it’s cold no sound.

In this case I'd be looking at the amplifier for issues.
 

4Eyedturd

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I pulled the radio out after the motor work and hit all the big solder joints with my iron. Blew out the cd player also. After reinstalling, I found the cd player will read cds now and I’ll have to wait for a cold day to see if it helped.
 

4Eyedturd

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In this case I'd be looking at the amplifier for issues.
I’m no audio guy but what makes you go that direction? Can you bypass the amp to rule it out?

I’m back to no sound till it warms up but sometimes I’ll get a little static out of a speaker till then. There’s many things I’ll tolerate but no radio isn’t one of them.
 

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