Bleeding Brakes

[the blur]

I had my entire system including ABS power flushed at the scummy dealer. $150, it was worth it. There is a notable difference in the pedal.
The dealer tries to sell it every 2 years, the owners manual recommends every 10 years.

 

[Fless]

Especially when flushing brakes, consider upgrading to DOT4 fluid. The primary benefit is that it has a higher boiling point than DOT3.

https://blog.amsoil.com/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluid-whats-the-difference/

 

[Larryjb]

Especially when flushing brakes, consider upgrading to DOT4 fluid. The primary benefit is that it has a higher boiling point than DOT3.

https://blog.amsoil.com/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluid-whats-the-difference/

I, personally, have never had a need for DOT4, even pulling a trailer down the Grapevine or the Coquihalla. The Coquihalla was done with 3 adults, 2 kids, and a fully loaded trailer. We measured our weight and it was near 10000 lbs. The GVWR is somewhere around 12000 lbs. As long as you drive sensibly, you should never have an issue with braking. This includes using properly set up trailer brakes, gearing down, keeping your speed reasonable, and not riding the brake. We kept our speed at or below 50 mph. Once it got up to 50 mph, I'd gently use the brakes to slow down to 40 mph, keeping the truck in 2nd gear. Never once did I even come close to brake fade.

 

[OR VietVet]

Coming down a pass is when so many people do not use their brakes correctly. They don't even gear down. I loved towing with my Duramax when I had it.

 

[Fless]

I'm in total agreement about gearing down when towing downhill.

There's not a significant price difference for the improved performance of DOT4, so it's worth it to me. If I'm bleeding 'em, I'm using the better stuff. Never know when you'll need it.

 

[OR VietVet]

I'm in total agreement about gearing down when towing downhill.

There's not a significant price difference for the improved performance of DOT4, so it's worth it to me. If I'm bleeding 'em, I'm using the better stuff. Never know when you'll need it.

Yea, better to have it and not need it than to not have it and need it.

 

[Bob2C]

Coming down a pass is when so many people do not use their brakes correctly. They don't even gear down. I loved towing with my Duramax when I had it.

I was coming down some mountains in pa and on the DIC I noticed it said grade braking. Never knew I had this option. It did a fairly nice job. Should come in handy if I ever tow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thompsoj22]

That does nothing unless you move brake fluid through the system. And the only way to do that is bleed..

It replaces the fluid that you have extracted, it is better than nothing?

 

[kbuskill]

I exchanged all the Brake fluid in my Burb with DOT4 by using a homemade bleeder that I made from a vacuum pump and a glass pickle jar.

Started at passenger rear and vacuumed out fluid until new, clean, fluid started coming out through the clear hose... making sure to keep the reservoir topped off of course.

Then lather, rinse, repeat with the drivers rear, followed by the passenger front and then the drivers front.

Worked beautifully and all new DOT4 fluid.

I still want to get all 6 stainless braided lines at some point in the future, but for now the new fluid combined with the cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads work great.

 

[PG01]

I exchanged all the Brake fluid in my Burb with DOT4 by using a homemade bleeder that I made from a vacuum pump and a glass pickle jar.

Started at passenger rear and vacuumed out fluid until new, clean, fluid started coming out through the clear hose... making sure to keep the reservoir topped off of course.

Then lather, rinse, repeat with the drivers rear, followed by the passenger front and then the drivers front.

Worked beautifully and all new DOT4 fluid.

I still want to get all 6 stainless braided lines at some point in the future, but for now the new fluid combined with the cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads work great.

Good job Ken...... lol...

 

[kbuskill]

Good job Ken...... lol...

Dang Pete... it's been so long I almost forgot what you looked like.

 

[Rocket Man]

Eh,I used the vacuum method and it’s backward to me. I grew frustrated trying to keep the hose from sucking air every time I did it. Plus you always have to keep trying to keep the vacuum up because it inevitably leaks and you need more and more vacuum. I did all 4 corners on my truck today after installing the new Wilwoods. Some of those lines had a helluva lot of air because I fought with installing the new braided hoses and calipers so they were left draining for awhile before I got something on to stop the flow. It took me about a half hour and I only needed to add a few pumps to the Motive tank, and never had to top off the master because it did it for me. I put four pints through the system; it’s all nice clean new fluid now.

 

[kbuskill]

Eh,I used the vacuum method and it’s backward to me. I grew frustrated trying to keep the hose from sucking air every time I did it. Plus you always have to keep trying to keep the vacuum up because it inevitably leaks and you need more and more vacuum. I did all 4 corners on my truck today after installing the new Wilwoods. Some of those lines had a helluva lot of air because I fought with installing the new braided hoses and calipers so they were left draining for awhile before I got something on to stop the flow. It took me about a half hour and I only needed to add a few pumps to the Motive tank, and never had to top off the master because it did it for me. I put four pints through the system; it’s all nice clean new fluid now.

I have no issues with my homemade setup... I use the same vacuum pump that I use for A/C system work. Just flip a switch and it goes to work.

Here it is hooked up to my old motorcycle...

 

[Rocket Man]

I have no issues with my homemade setup... I use the same vacuum pump that I use for A/C system work. Just flip a switch and it goes to work.

What supplies the vacuum? The ones I had used my compressor and it was always running. Just works better to pressure bleed than vacuum bleed, you should try it. You would never go back. You could probably use your same equipment just turn it into one that provides pressure to the master. I’m not sure how the Motive keeps the fluid level perfectly topped up though. I started with mine a bit low and it filled it to the full line and kept it there.

 

[kbuskill]

What supplies the vacuum? The ones I had used my compressor and it was always running. Just works better to pressure bleed than vacuum bleed, you should try it. You would never go back. You could probably use your same equipment just turn it into one that provides pressure to the master. I’m not sure how the Motive keeps the fluid level perfectly topped up though. I started with mine a bit low and it filled it to the full line and kept it there.

The electric vacuum pump on the right side of the picture I posted is what supplies the vacuum on the pickle jar and through the pickle jar to the caliper.

I am certain that the Motive is a great unit, I just don't bleed brakes that often and I already owned the vacuum pump... and the pickle jar... lol

 

[Larryjb]

I exchanged all the Brake fluid in my Burb with DOT4 by using a homemade bleeder that I made from a vacuum pump and a glass pickle jar.

Started at passenger rear and vacuumed out fluid until new, clean, fluid started coming out through the clear hose... making sure to keep the reservoir topped off of course.

Then lather, rinse, repeat with the drivers rear, followed by the passenger front and then the drivers front.

Worked beautifully and all new DOT4 fluid.

I still want to get all 6 stainless braided lines at some point in the future, but for now the new fluid combined with the cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads work great.

What some people will do to get out of a pickle...

 

[Larryjb]

Years ago when I heard of the pressure bleeding, I realized that would be ideal. With the vacuum method, it tends to suck air back through the threads of the bleed screw. It becomes guesswork when trying to figure out when the air is bled out. I'd usually just bleed and bleed and bleed.

With the pressure method, I'd be sure the air is out. The only annoyance would be to have to keep filling the master cylinder reservoir all the time. That's a small price to pay.

 

[Rocket Man]

Years ago when I heard of the pressure bleeding, I realized that would be ideal. With the vacuum method, it tends to suck air back through the threads of the bleed screw. It becomes guesswork when trying to figure out when the air is bled out. I'd usually just bleed and bleed and bleed.

With the pressure method, I'd be sure the air is out. The only annoyance would be to have to keep filling the master cylinder reservoir all the time. That's a small price to pay.

The Motive refills it for you, problem solved. It actually keeps it at the upper (max) line somehow. You put the brake fluid in the Motive tank and pump it up and it does the rest.

 

[Larryjb]

Hey, that's even better!

 

[tom3]

I used to pressure bleed back when master cylinders were iron. Made a cap with an air fitting on it. For sure the best and easiest way but with today's plastic reservoirs it doesn't seem like a good idea. Old vacuum pump and a Mason jar with a couple tubes soldered in. (pretty much as shown above). The old brake pedal deal never did work for me. Sometimes just leave the bleeder open and let gravity do it would work, usually not. Used to really hate any brake work that opened the system.

Now I hate antifreeze, seems like there is always a seep somewhere undetectable.