Bleeding Brakes

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the blur

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I had to change a caliper. No matter how many times I bleed it, (manually), I couldn't get a good pedal. Still soft & mushy.

Finally had to give in and take it to the dealer. They'll flush the ABS unit, and all 4 wheels.

How much does the tech II cost to activate the ABS unit ??
 

OR VietVet

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Tech II's on ebay for anywhere between $325 to $350. Make sure you get the latest software update version of 33.004
 

Larryjb

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It seems like a silly question, but it happened to me last year after 30 years of doing my own brakes....

Did you install the correct side caliper? A right caliper on the left side may physically fit, but the bleed screw will be on the bottom and you will never get the air out.
 

OR VietVet

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It seems like a silly question, but it happened to me last year after 30 years of doing my own brakes....

Did you install the correct side caliper? A right caliper on the left side may physically fit, but the bleed screw will be on the bottom and you will never get the air out.


Yea, I saw rookie techs and shadetree mechanics do that. Part of my job as service manager was hiring a new tech, qualified or a rookie, and helping bring along the rookie and also assigning him to a qualified tech as his helper to learn the proper way for repairs. I saw lots of ASE certified techs that could not tighten a hose clamp correctly.
 
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the blur

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Bleeder screw definitely up top. Feel bad to give the dealer $220 for a brake fluid flush after doing my own caliper, but I don't have a lift. 80,000 miles on the fluid, I can't complain. It's long over due.

I have never seen a caliper seize up so badly. 1 piston came out, the other piston is frozen solid into the caliper. No amount of air pressure could blow it free.
 

OR VietVet

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That typically happens because of not flushing the brake fluid after moisture has built up in the fluid over time. The brake fluid does absorb moisture and gets darker and if not flushed it will wreck havoc with the inside of the brake system. You may not be done replacing parts.
 

donjetman

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the blur/Denali, what yr etc is your vehicle?

Last summer I replaced the rear calipers, hoses, rotors, and pads. Easy peasy, I did it the same old school way that I've been doing it for the last 45 yrs.

I have all the parts to do the fronts, but they still have a little life left in them.

Whenever I do an oil/filter change, I use a large syringe and suck as much old brake fluid and PS fluid out, and replenish with new.
 
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the blur

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Whenever I do an oil/filter change, I use a large syringe and suck as much old brake fluid and PS fluid out, and replenish with new.

That does nothing unless you move brake fluid through the system. And the only way to do that is bleed..
 

donjetman

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That does nothing unless you move brake fluid through the system. And the only way to do that is bleed..
Bleeding provides instant results.
But everytime the brake pedal is moved(normal braking) brake fluid comes and goes from the reservoir, mixing old and new when done the way I described. So eventually some of that new makes its way thru out the whole system.
 
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the blur

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everytime the brake pedal is moved(normal braking) brake fluid comes and goes from the reservoir, mixing old and new when done the way I described. So eventually some of that new makes its way thru out the whole system.

Incorrect. The amount of brake fluid movement is nil. Have someone step on your brakes, and watch the reservoir. You will never see a change. There is no recirculation of brake fluid. The fluid in the caliper stays in the caliper. The fluid in the hoses, stay in the hoses. The only thing you will notice.. as the pads wear, the amount of fluid in the reservoir will decrease slightly. Ever so slightly...
 

Rocket Man

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Incorrect. The amount of brake fluid movement is nil. Have someone step on your brakes, and watch the reservoir. You will never see a change. There is no recirculation of brake fluid. The fluid in the caliper stays in the caliper. The fluid in the hoses, stay in the hoses. The only thing you will notice.. as the pads wear, the amount of fluid in the reservoir will decrease slightly. Ever so slightly...
Exactly. It’s a closed system with no loop. No fluid changes place unless you bleed them so you open up the other end of the line and it can flow from one end of the system to the other.
 

donjetman

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OK, I' not admitting I'm wrong, but certainly bleeding the brakes IS better. I'll start bleeding my brakes at every other tire rotation. I ordered a brake bleeding kit.
 

OR VietVet

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OK, I' not admitting I'm wrong, but certainly bleeding the brakes IS better. I'll start bleeding my brakes at every other tire rotation. I ordered a brake bleeding kit.

What brake bleed kit did you get and is it universal for all vehicles?
 

Rocket Man

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I highly recommend the Motive if you want something that is simple and easy. It’s not the cheapest for sure but I’ll never use anything else. You fill it with up to 2 quarts of fluid, replace the lid on your master cylinder with the one connected to the Motive tank, pump it up with the hand pump to the recommended pressure and that’s it. It pressurizes your brake system and refills the master as you bleed the brakes which is as easy as opening each bleeder and let the fluid or air flow out, going in the correct order of course. You can buy different master cylinder cap adapters for other vehicles. One works for all GM vehicles.
 

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