Big Red - 2000 Tahoe Build

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ArcticYukon

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Y'all probably don't remember me because I didn't post much here, but this is my former GM suv....

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....which is why my username is ArcticYukon.

It was a 1998 Yukon SLE 4wd with between 4 and 6 inches of lift and 33" tires on 20" Helos... and what a pile of junk it was! First of all, we went and looked at it when it was dark, and the interior lights didn't work so we couldn't see just how bad the interior was. In the low light outside, we couldn't see how bad the exterior was. The truck ran and shifted fine, but it had a miss and if you were at cruising speed and put the pedal down to pass someone or whatever, the rear of the truck would sway sharply from side to side as if it had death wobble of the rear. We really took a bath on it.

Well, we traded it straight up for a Grand Cherokee... and a few vehicles later, we've come somewhat full circle.

This past weekend, we just picked up a 2000 Chevy Tahoe LS

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2wd, LM7, tow package (HD trans cooler, factory hitch, factory 7 pin connector) 3.73 rear w/ posi and electronic traction control, tow hooks, and skid plate.

The truck has 203,000 miles on it and still starts, runs, and drives like new. The motor is all original on the original build, the transmission was rebuilt 3 years ago. This is a classic example of "rough around the edges, but she's got it where it counts." The rough part is, it needs a paint job pretty badly, has a few small dents in the front passenger fender and 1 in the front passenger door, and a dent in the bumper. The interior isn't in terrible shape, just stained carpets, a rip in the driver's seat, and some cracking in the passenger front seat. The tabs that hold most of the switches in are breaking, so they're just kind of resting in place - but they all work. The dash has a crack in it and the dash bezel is a couple cracks and the previous owner cut the radio slot for a double DIN receiver and did a pretty piss poor job at it. The headliner is sagging too and for whatever reason, the speakers have ZERO bass haha.

Either way, we're pretty pleased with the purchase. It has new shocks, new battery, new water pump and it starts, runs, shifts, and drives as if it were new.

We're planning on fixing it up like new and adding a few custom touches to it. Not planning on going crazy with it, just want to make it look as good as it drives.

Anyway.... tips, advice, warnings about quirks, common desirable mods, suggestions on preventative maintenance to curtail common problems... yeah all of that is totally welcome. I'll update the thread with whatever we end up doing to it.

Oh and uh.... I'm known by Basslicks on several other forums. So if ya see that name, it's me!
 

swathdiver

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Welcome back! You've got an eighteen year old truck and those things are normal. Better than a car payment and you can do the work at your leisure. The important thing is this one has good bones and the mileage is nothing.
 
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ArcticYukon

ArcticYukon

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Thanks guys. Yeah, I'm not afraid to do any of the work on my own. I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee that I've converted to 4wd, lifted, and done motor work to on my own (along with some other things). Haven't had a car payment in years.... don't like 'em. Plus, I like working on cars so it works out well for me.

The Yukon was just not worth any of the trouble. Would've ended up costing me 3 times what I paid for it to fix it up.

This Tahoe is just great. I love the way it drives. We did have a hiccup the other day, however. Jessica (my wife) drove it to walmart and when she came out, it wouldn't crank. I figured it was either not all the way in park or the ground cable was loose at the battery. Sure enough, the ground wasn't tight enough - you could wiggle it with your hand. On top of that, when I went to check the positive cable, the stud had been broken previously and rather than replacing the stud, they just screwed it in... there was probably only about 2 threads left on that thing.

So I got her hooked up enough to get home, then removed the cables, cleaned the terminals, coated them with dielectric grease, and reinstalled them with the felt terminal pads.

Still running and driving like a champ!

Currently, I'm shopping around for quotes on headliner replacement 'cause my wife swears I'll never get it done (I do work a lot). I think once my wife sees the cost of doing that, she'll concede to me doing it.

Just like LMC Truck's motto says, "Keep 'em on the road"
 

ScottyBoy

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The headliner replacement should be very easy, especially since you can just drop it down and slide it straight out the back. Headliners in cars and pickups are usually more of a pain because of trying to squeeze the headliner board out of the passenger side front door.
As far as the speakers having ZERO bass, that most probably means that the factory amp is still hooked up. You will actually get far better sound if you bypass the factory amp. The factory radio has an amp or else it has a Bose amp. Either way, the factory amp blocks ALL bass going to the door speakers because of the subwoofer in the rear Driver's side quarter panel. If you bypass the amp, then you will get full Bass to each door speaker. There's two ways to bypass the amp, either make a jumper harness at the amp behind the glove box, or else run new speaker wires from the radio to each door speaker.
 

Tonyrodz

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The headliner replacement should be very easy, especially since you can just drop it down and slide it straight out the back. Headliners in cars and pickups are usually more of a pain because of trying to squeeze the headliner board out of the passenger side front door.
As far as the speakers having ZERO bass, that most probably means that the factory amp is still hooked up. You will actually get far better sound if you bypass the factory amp. The factory radio has an amp or else it has a Bose amp. Either way, the factory amp blocks ALL bass going to the door speakers because of the subwoofer in the rear Driver's side quarter panel. If you bypass the amp, then you will get full Bass to each door speaker. There's two ways to bypass the amp, either make a jumper harness at the amp behind the glove box, or else run new speaker wires from the radio to each door speaker.
Just curious, my 03 doesn't have Bose, just had the standard cd/cass hu. Did mine have a factory amp? I now have a dd with amp and box, but I'm just curious. Is there an rpo for it?
 

ScottyBoy

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Just curious, my 03 doesn't have Bose, just had the standard cd/cass hu. Did mine have a factory amp? I now have a dd with amp and box, but I'm just curious. Is there an rpo for it?

Now that, I'm not 100% sure on. I know that pretty much every 00-02 has an amp though.
All documentation says that there were three different audio systems from 99-02. The Base system (just a radio), the "Premium" system (has a radio, amp, and 8" sub in rear), and then the Bose system which is basically the same as the Premium system but different and and speakers. I believe the Bose had a separate sub amp as well. I have never encountered a 00-02 Tahoe/Burb or Yukon with the "Base" audio system. Perhaps only the pickups had the Base radio.
As far as 03, I don't recall if there were three different audio systems or just two. I have never seen any documents about it back when I used to install car stereos, so I believe it's just base or Bose on the 03+ trucks and SUVS.
 
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Tonyrodz

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Now that, I'm not 100% sure on. I know that pretty much every 00-02 has an amp though.
All documentation says that there were three different audio systems from 99-02. The Base system (just a radio), the "Premium" system (has a radio, amp, and 8" sub in rear), and then the Bose system which is basically the same as the Premium system but different and and speakers. I believe the Bose had a separate sub amp as well. I have never encountered a 00-02 Tahoe/Burb or Yukon with the "Base" audio system. Perhaps only the pickups had the Base radio.
As far as 03, I don't recall if there were three different audio systems or just two. I have never seen any documents about it back when I used to install car stereos, so I believe it's just base or Bose on the 03+ trucks and SUVS.
Thx for the info ScottyBoy. I fkund the Bose amps along with the sub from that 02 Denali my buddy parted out. Sounded really good too.
 
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ArcticYukon

ArcticYukon

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The headliner replacement should be very easy, especially since you can just drop it down and slide it straight out the back. Headliners in cars and pickups are usually more of a pain because of trying to squeeze the headliner board out of the passenger side front door.
As far as the speakers having ZERO bass, that most probably means that the factory amp is still hooked up. You will actually get far better sound if you bypass the factory amp. The factory radio has an amp or else it has a Bose amp. Either way, the factory amp blocks ALL bass going to the door speakers because of the subwoofer in the rear Driver's side quarter panel. If you bypass the amp, then you will get full Bass to each door speaker. There's two ways to bypass the amp, either make a jumper harness at the amp behind the glove box, or else run new speaker wires from the radio to each door speaker.

Now that, I'm not 100% sure on. I know that pretty much every 00-02 has an amp though.
All documentation says that there were three different audio systems from 99-02. The Base system (just a radio), the "Premium" system (has a radio, amp, and 8" sub in rear), and then the Bose system which is basically the same as the Premium system but different and and speakers. I believe the Bose had a separate sub amp as well. I have never encountered a 00-02 Tahoe/Burb or Yukon with the "Base" audio system. Perhaps only the pickups had the Base radio.
As far as 03, I don't recall if there were three different audio systems or just two. I have never seen any documents about it back when I used to install car stereos, so I believe it's just base or Bose on the 03+ trucks and SUVS.

Now I'm really curious. My factory radio is a CD player unit with the automatic volume whatever it's called, a separate tape deck mounted in the center console below the dash, a mosfet on the side of the head unit, and no subwoofer in the rear - although, I haven't closely examined the enclosure in the rear to see if it was removed or what. Where would the factory amplifier be located if I had one?

Also, when I looked up my RPO codes, it indicates that I have the "upgraded" sound system supposedly, but there's only the 4 speakers that I can tell.... one in each door and it looks like the PO installed some tweeters in the driver's door speaker enclosures (which makes the lack of bass just THAT MUCH more.... "enjoyable").

Thanks for the reply about the headliner, btw. I was pretty sure it would be an easy job too. Not all that different from replacing one in and XJ and I have removed one from a parts Jeep that I had. The removal went so well on it that I was able to sell it in perfect condition.
 
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ArcticYukon

ArcticYukon

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Ok guys, sure enough it has the factory amplifier behind the glove box door. I bought the Metra 70-2002 harness, repinned it, threw it in and voila! Finally have bass!

Still going to end up having to get new speakers because these are just cheapy boss or dual brand speakers and don't have much range to them, but at least we have something that makes them give out fuller sound now .
 
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ArcticYukon

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Haven't been posting it in this thread, but I've been dealing with the dreaded REP mode issue. Numerous codes, most of which have been dealt with. Waiting on money for the rest. Of course, the way it's been working, once the weather warms up, it will be a non-point as it's only doing it when it sits overnight and the ambient temp is below 70*.

SO.... I replaced the APP sensor, cleaned the TB, cleared the codes, then it drove fine for 2 evenings without any CEL or other troubles until the next cold morning. Started up fine, no CEL, wife made it 5 minutes down the road and it popped the CEL and went into REP mode. Sat on the side of the road for 10 minutes until it warmed up past 185, then shut if off, turned it back on and it drove fine. Took it to autozone for them to read the stored code ('cause the CEL shut off when I cranked it that afternoon), and it showed a p1515. Guess I'll have to replace that TB sensor after all...

Before and after shots of the throttle body....

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Drove it all last week and at the end of the week, I came back from the store with my daughter hearing hissing.... pinhole on the driver's side plastic side tank on the radiator. Well great! :banghead:
 
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ArcticYukon

ArcticYukon

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Well, it's been a month and a half since I've driven Big Red, other than just moving it around the front yard to mow and whatnot.

Waiting on the Jeep to sell before I can get the money to replace the radiator and TPS. Got a couple buyers interested so, fingers crossed for this weekend.
 

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If you are selling it, try getting some of that JB weld for radiators and gas tanks. I actually had a radiator start leaking where the fill neck meets the tank, and I used the JB weld on it and it surprisingly worked GREAT. I initially planned on it being a temporary repair, but it held up for at least another year, until I sold the car.
 
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ArcticYukon

ArcticYukon

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If you are selling it, try getting some of that JB weld for radiators and gas tanks. I actually had a radiator start leaking where the fill neck meets the tank, and I used the JB weld on it and it surprisingly worked GREAT. I initially planned on it being a temporary repair, but it held up for at least another year, until I sold the car.

The Jeep was for sale. Sold it Friday night, thankfully.

The radiator cracked in the Tahoe. Bought a new radiator saturday and installed it in a couple of hours. Back to running like a champ!!!

Bought some Beamtech LED bulbs for it off of Amazon on Saturday night. They came in this afternoon about a half hour before I left for work. Threw 'em in real quick and drove to work with it.... suckers are BRIGHT!!!

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Pretty impressed so far. I'll be able to tell more once darkness falls.
 
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ArcticYukon

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Hey, can anyone tell me how to remove this gap? I looked at the grille connections with the upper shroud off, but it's not making sense to me how to move it up.

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Shouldn't be that much gap, right? Maybe it's my OCD, but that just seems a bit excessive.
 
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ArcticYukon

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Thank you, Mods, for moving my thread!

Figured this was more appropriate as a build thread since that's what the goal is. It'll be a slow build, but it's not staying stock, that's for sure.

Plans (not necessarily in order):

-Re-upholster the headliner
-Clean up the interior to see how badly stained it is. Re-finish, paint, dye, or whatever from there
-Flowmaster single in / dual out muffler (already have)
-Replace front bumper
-Replace headlight & turn signal housings
-Replace tail light housings
-Esky vent caps
-Denali center console swap
-HD hood/grille swap
-Dent repair
-Paint (oh god does it need the paint)
-2" lift/leveling kit
-18" wheels
-33" tires (Just so we're clear - the wife wants the lift and tires. I'd rather do a 2" drop and 20s or 22s, but this is her DD, so well... happy wife, happy life.)


Maybes:
-Denali cluster swap
-FIPK - hoping to find a good deal on a used Volant, AirRaid, or AEM
-Power programmer
-I'd like to do a cam, but I don't know if I want that much power under my wife's foot - especially with the kids in tow.

Overall goal is just a decent-looking family vehicle. Not a show-stopper, but not run down and neglected looking like it is now. I love custom rides and I really love this Chevy. Definitely my favorite that I've owned so far.

Any tips or advice is welcome. Not the first vehicle I've owned and modified, but it's my first LS-based.
 

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