another ride qaulity question..

[ghost]

im not trying to go balls out but im trying to improve my ride qaulity. i feel with the shocks and coils that im running it rides horrrible. i have my factory 16s on right now with a heftly tire and i can feel EVERYTHING in the road.

i worked a ton of overtime this week so i have some extra bucks to improve some of this befor i put my rims back on.

for my suspension..

front - eibach keys, nitro drop 2 shocks
rear - djm tb coils, djm calmax shocks
im sitting a 32" dead even all 4 corners
275/35/22 tires.. shoulda went 305 but i got these for dirt cheap

few questions.

will shorter endlinks actually improve the ride sensitivity or just sway action?
for the rear if you had to pick would you buy rear hardware kit or adj panhard and why?

ive also heard that a rear hardware kit will actually lower it more?? i thought all it did was re locate everything back to normal.


any help apreciated! thanks fellas

 

[ghost]

anyone running a panhard and no rear hardware kit?

 

[NORCAL SS]

ghost i thought you had the regular djm tahoe springs not the tb??

The hardware kit will lower the back a little 5/16 to 1/2 inch and ride will be better. Going to the rear hardware kit does improve ride quality ive done many on the belltech 5305 springs and ride is better and truck handles better also.

Also the djm shocks cant remember if you go them from me or not but are they 20 inches extended?

as for panhard bar will stiffen the rear end and also will pull that pass tire in more so doesnt hang out of the well.

 

[ghost]

i got coils and shocks both from you. they are the tb coils, atleast thats what i thought i bought? they are black and the shocks are 20.5 ext i believe.. i might still have the pm id have to check..

doesnt the panhard and trailing arm relocators practically do the same thing?

If i found some endlinks somewhere and did the panhard instead of doing the rear hardware kit would that overall be better solution to the ride?

 

[NORCAL SS]

no panhard moved from left to right

trailing arm relocators move the axle from front to back.

totally different things.

Also tb coils are silver not black.

 

[ghost]

well shit thought i had the tb coils, thats what i asked for in my pm.. i still have it if you would want me to send it to you..

ii sent it to you

 

[NORCAL SS]

i never had black coils that i sold??? shoot me a pm.

 

[ghost]

lol glad we got that sqaured away, and hopefully solved why it rides ******. thanks tony..

 

[WHITEOUT]

I have messed with me lowering components alot lately, and have 3/5 drop, spindles and 5" coils, rear trailing arm brackets and sway end links. Now as far as rear trailing arms go, they just position arms at better angle for suspension, not really to move back and forth( unless you were to get adjustable and do top and bottoms and adjust accordingly)
Now panhard bar, for me, is a must now. As I got left and right issues, especially on bumps. Panhard bar will move axle left and right accordingly. My axle personally is shifted over atleast a 1/4 inch and affecting everything, or so I think
I am personally buying adjustable panhard and rear lower trailing arms. This will bring my axle back to center and should make handling better, but more over for me, stop the popping that is happening.

Ghost, if your looking for some lowering parts hit me up.
I have some Belltech spindles, brand new, 5" drop coils
Belltech, DJM shocks 4 used. Also got a set of DJM front lowered A-arms.

 

[NORCAL SS]

i think he will be fine now we worked out some issues

 

[WHITEOUT]

Cool. ya I haven't been on in awhile, and I guess just putting in my .02 from what's going on with my rig and thought I could help. Glad it's all riding right tho.

 

[Modded]

I have messed with me lowering components alot lately, and have 3/5 drop, spindles and 5" coils, rear trailing arm brackets and sway end links. Now as far as rear trailing arms go, they just position arms at better angle for suspension, not really to move back and forth( unless you were to get adjustable and do top and bottoms and adjust accordingly)
Now panhard bar, for me, is a must now. As I got left and right issues, especially on bumps. Panhard bar will move axle left and right accordingly. My axle personally is shifted over atleast a 1/4 inch and affecting everything, or so I think
I am personally buying adjustable panhard and rear lower trailing arms. This will bring my axle back to center and should make handling better, but more over for me, stop the popping that is happening.

Ghost, if your looking for some lowering parts hit me up.
I have some Belltech spindles, brand new, 5" drop coils
Belltech, DJM shocks 4 used. Also got a set of DJM front lowered A-arms.

Yeah the relocators do move the axle back and center it in the wheel well a bit. Me and another bud with the same drop and same size wheels/tire (26s) noticed his was grinding all over the rear upper control arms mount, while mine weren't because I have the trailing arms.

 

[WHITEOUT]

Yeah the relocators do move the axle back and center it in the wheel well a bit. Me and another bud with the same drop and same size wheels/tire (26s) noticed his was grinding all over the rear upper control arms mount, while mine weren't because I have the trailing arms.

Well kinda. After talking with people smarter then me, the geometry of it. And I do have lower RCA(rear control arms) relocating brackets. And in theory it is only repositioning the LRCA to a more "optimal" OEM position, ie. back to parallel with ground so not angled up so high. The relocating brackets -lower- cant really move axla back TOO much using only lower because it would tweak axle itself. Understand? Only way to accomplish "fully" repositioning axle back is to get adjustable Upper and Lower rear control arms. IE. Rear lower control arm can only move length wise as much as the upper, otherwise shit will be off.

I myself have learned that MY lower RCA are being "pinched"(hopefully problem) and I have ordered adjustable rear panhard bar and adjustable rear LCA to hopefully fix my "popping" issue in rear. whether or not it fixes it will come to see, but beefing up the rear end can't hurt anything. I will be posting pics and stuff regarding what I will be installing in next week or so.

DISCLAIMER: Now, I am by know means an expert!!! This is only stuff I have learned thru my own dealings and other peoples advice with my lowered Tahoe. Not trying to act like I know all about it, just learning as I go, and trying to help if possible, and recieve help all the same.

 

[ghost]

Hey Austin, long time sence ive seen ya on here. Are those front a arms the 3" drop ones? Dk if they even make anything besides that but i gotta ask cuz i dk lol. A little too late on the shocks deal i just ordered new ones from tony as well with a rear hardware kit, hoping that helps my ride tremendously. But i am interested in those front arms because i feel thats where my truck rides the *********. Im only running drop keys right now with nitro drop shocks, keys decranked quite a bit to stay level with the tb coils, and its terrible (even on my factory 16s with 70 series tire) lol. Truck only has 86k miles so i wouldnt think anything would be too worn out yet to be the cause.

 

[WHITEOUT]

Ya, I haven't been on in awhile.... damn busy life!! DJM drop arms are 3" they don't make another that I am aware of. suspension feels good out back, besides popping noise that "seems" to be coming from trailing arms. My front is ok, but squishing jounce stops and drastically think it's affecting my ride!! No travel up front. IDK what to do about it yet. Spindles or A-arms will be better then keys for sure.

 

[ghost]

PM me a price on those arms if ya wanna part with them! i may be interested..

 

[fire730]

I just recently lowered my XL with keys and 3" DJM coils with NItro 2 all around. I think I need to ditch the keys and get some spindles for the front. The bumpsteer is too much.

The rear was bouncy when I first installed the drop. I have since added the DJM TA relocators and that helped from me having the driveshaft slam into the tranny over hard bumps. I also added the Airlift bags inside the coils. I only have 10psi in them and the ride is not bouncy at all anymore. I just took a 1200 mi trip and with it full of luggage and gas it still rode great in the back. And it rides good unloaded also. HTH

 

[J-dub]

I'm also needing to attend to my drop. Right now I have keys and 5" DJM springs. Honestly the ride isn't that bad, but I think it will be much worse when I get rims put on.

I think the rear hardware kit would be my first step, correct?

 

[NORCAL SS]

I just recently lowered my XL with keys and 3" DJM coils with NItro 2 all around. I think I need to ditch the keys and get some spindles for the front. The bumpsteer is too much.

The rear was bouncy when I first installed the drop. I have since added the DJM TA relocators and that helped from me having the driveshaft slam into the tranny over hard bumps. I also added the Airlift bags inside the coils. I only have 10psi in them and the ride is not bouncy at all anymore. I just took a 1200 mi trip and with it full of luggage and gas it still rode great in the back. And it rides good unloaded also. HTH

did you cut bumpstop brackets?

---------- Post added at 09:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 PM ----------

I'm also needing to attend to my drop. Right now I have keys and 5" DJM springs. Honestly the ride isn't that bad, but I think it will be much worse when I get rims put on.

I think the rear hardware kit would be my first step, correct?

did you cut bumpstop brackets?

are you running the regular tahoe djm springs or my djm tb 5.5 springs?

also what shocks are you running?

 

[thor1125]

What shocks are best to run with the djm 3/5 kit.... I need new shocks asap this week

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