Amp Meter [Amp Clamp] Recommendations?

[Fless]

I'm chasing an intermittent battery drain on my '04, and would like to get a few recommendations for a decent inductive ammeter for DC. Looking to spend under $75 or so.

I can do the online shopping and reviews so I would prefer recommendations, good or bad, for a meter that you've used or know about. Would appreciate first person reviews from the gallery.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: after looking at some meters and reviews I may have to UP my price range.

 

[Fless]

...

 

[drakon543]

ive always stuck with fluke brand meters. some of the cheaper models can also be hooked up to an external amp clamp. not sure on overall price but buying a cheaper meter and just an accessory might be cheaper than buying one built with an amp clamp.

 

[Danny3737]

Fluke meters can be pricey, but they are worth it

ive always stuck with fluke brand meters. some of the cheaper models can also be hooked up to an external amp clamp. not sure on overall price but buying a cheaper meter and just an accessory might be cheaper than buying one built with an amp clamp.

 

[Fless]

I'll probably start with my cheapie DVOM (10A limit, which should be okay) and connect it inline for now, although I'd have to remove it to start and drive. Also going to borrow my son's amp clamp since he's not using it right now.

 

[exp500]

I picked up a hall effect meter on Amazon for cheap, around $15.Put it in a small cigar box. Have to put Batt cable thru 1 inch ring, but ring and lead unplug from guage. It is reasonaby accurate(10-20 Ma resolution) and good for 100 amps, perfect for parasitic drains that are interrmittant. I use 200Ma as a baseline number, If started twice a week 200Ma is ok. Once a week, 100Ma is pushing upper limit of draw.
Most of my amp clamps aren't accurate enough on DC connections- not repeatable after reclamped.I think it is thickness of insulation/ shape of field. Way cheaper than overamping my Fluke on inline connection and replacing fuse again and again.

 

[Fless]

Son's amp clamp was the same way, not sensitive enough. So I got one of these and wired the shunt into the negative battery connection.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...2TZZBEHYNES5VB7Z&pd_rd_w=1UnYQ&pd_rd_wg=Jjr8g

Before that I had a DVOM connected inline while doing some testing but of course I can't start the truck with that in there. I caught it drawing 1.5a (asleep) and killed the radio circuit to get it back down. This way I can monitor it while I'm able to run it, and will be extending the wires this weekend to get it into the cab. I don't think it will be permanent, it's kind of frankenstein-ish at the battery but should be okay for a couple of months or until I figure out what part of the radio system is causing it. Could be the Kenwood or the PAC SWC box, I guess. Or a wiring issue, but I was pretty cautious when I installed it. I did manage to update the firmware on the Kenwood.

Currently (pun intended) it's drawing between 21 and 24ma at rest. Everything goes to sleep pretty fast, easily within a minute.

 

[Doubeleive]

I picked up a Ideal 61-734 used off ebay for about $50 it's a nice little meter for the price I use it all the time

 

[Doubeleive]

none on ebay at the moment but I see new ones on line for about $85

 

[Fless]

none on ebay at the moment but I see new ones on line for about $85

Specs say they're for AC current, not DC. The AC clamps are relatively cheap, and the DC ones are $$$ if you want to see below 0.1A.

 

[Doubeleive]

Specs say they're for AC current, not DC. The AC clamps are relatively cheap, and the DC ones are $$$ if you want to see below 0.1A.

ya I forgot it only does ac clamping, I use it for testing a variety of things dc clamping is not one I ever have a need for though

 

[Fless]

I ended up with one of these and have been using it for the past several months, and I'd recommend it for reading relatively low DC current. It works good, but since it can read in the mA scale the wire being tested must be 1/2" dia. or less. I've been using it periodically on my negative battery cable to check the current draw. I can tell you that it's important to zero it with the end of the jaws right by where you plan to measure the current, as in the instructions.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352176994690

 

[iamdub]

I ended up with one of these and have been using it for the past several months, and I'd recommend it for reading relatively low DC current. It works good, but since it can read in the mA scale the wire being tested must be 1/2" dia. or less. I've been using it periodically on my negative battery cable to check the current draw. I can tell you that it's important to zero it with the end of the jaws right by where you plan to measure the current, as in the instructions.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352176994690

View attachment 277639

Now I see the reasoning for your inquiry earlier.

 

[Mickey_7106]

Fluke if you have money to blow. i have a klein tools clamp that i bought at HD for under $100

 

[Fless]

Fluke if you have money to blow. i have a klein tools clamp that i bought at HD for under $100

Which one? Bet it doesn't do DC mA. Prove me wrong.

 

[exp500]

Resolution is a number you should look at for your meter when working that low, say 20-30 Ma. When I get that low the multimeter goes inline. 100 Ma is a "normal" number to see in newer vehicles. I wish they would shut off everything so you could park truck for a month without a disconnect and reset everything. The 1980's plow trucks sat 6 months and played musical batteries to fire them up every month. Batteries sat in shop by the charger.

Fless- I do like the looks of your new meter- that split ring clamp looks easy!

 

[Mickey_7106]

Which one? Bet it doesn't do DC mA. Prove me wrong.

The clamp probably wont read DC mA but the leads will lol

 

[Larryjb]

The clamp probably wont read DC mA but the leads will lol



I've got the Klein Tools meter like the one above as well. I got it to measure current going to my trailer brakes, but was also using it to chase leaking current. It was sensitive enough for me to observe that my Tahoe continues to use curren

The clamp probably wont read DC mA but the leads will lol

I have one of these Klein Tools as well. it was sensitive enough for me to see that my Tahoe continued to draw current for about 15-20 minutes after shutting it off and locking the doors, after which the current draw dropped. I cant remember the exact current values though, but it should be sensitive enough to see something major.

When testing circuits for current draw, as soon as you open a door it will activate the computer again and you will have to wait another 20 minutes. If you pull the courtesy lights fuse, that should disable the triggering by the door and you should be able to attach your clamp meter, open the door and one by one, remove each fuse in turn to see what is drawing current. The hood may also draw current when open too when checking engine bay circuits.

How old is your battery? I found that my circuits were just fine when I did my current draw test. It turned out that, although my battery showed good charging voltage when running and a good 12.7 V immediately after shutting the engine off, the battery charge would deplete after a few days of sitting. All the battery plates were getting partially sulfated so that it would still read full voltage, but it had a reduced reserve charge because of the sulfation.

 

[Fless]

The clamp probably wont read DC mA but the leads will lol

View attachment 360797

View attachment 360798

Yeah, that's where mine shines. The clamp will read mA; no need to open a circuit and I can get a very quick read. Of course, the clamp opening is only 1/2 inch, so that limits what cable it can be used on.