Alternator dies, now multpile systems down (BCM?)

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Jberry86

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First time post here guys, i think this is where this belongs..

2007 GMC Yukon

So, i was driving down the road when, suddenly, "charging system failure" or "service charging system" displays on the dic. Voltmeter gauge showed voltage down to about 10-11 volts, battery light illuminated. So I'm thinking, great my alternator just went.

I continue driving to my stop and let it run for fear i wont be able to restart. I get home and shut her down in the driveway and try to restart to see what happens. Of course, there's a weak crank and no start. I've been driving on just battery for about 12-15 miles, battery is pretty dead. Try again, no crank. This was the last time she cranked (2 weeks ago).

Ok, I attempt a jump start with another car and nothing, no crank. The gauges are lit up, but nothing happens when i turn the key. I let it "charge" from the other car for a good 45 min., until voltage was reading 14v (up from 11.86v). Hop inside and try again, nothing, no crank, no click, dash lights don't even go out.

It's at this point i realise that the interior dome lights didn't come on when i opened the door. Also, service stabilitrak, service traction control were displayed on dic. I notice also that the rear power windows aren't working, from either master driver switch or their respective switches. The lock/unlock switch doesn't work, not on the doors or the key fob. The lift gate doesn't work. My blinkers do not work, my hazards don't work, the little shift indicator doesn't work. I can see PRND12 but there is no underline beneath P or any spot on the column.

The radio works, i can manually turn on the headlights. The dash lights up, i hear door chimes. The electric seat works, well driver's at least haven't tried passengers. Front power windows work from both switches. I did notice, however, when i squeezed the driver side loom running from body to door i would hear a click at the switches and the front windows would stop working. I cut open the water proector to find the black wire completely severed. I soldered it back and the front windows again were working. I dont think thats related. Didnt see any other damged wires. And that's about it..

All fuses appear to be good. However, no power is being sent to liftgate, checked at fuse block under hood. In the fuse panel inside, no power is even being sent to LCK1, LCK2, UNLCK1, UNLCK2.

From what I've read, people with similar situations claim it was a bad BCM. I took mine out, took the board out and, visually, nothing appears burned or blown, no bad solder joints. Maybe something internally that can't be seen idk.

Does the power or signal for these systems come from the BCM?

Could a failed alternator take down the BCM?

What do you guys think?

FYI.. Battery tested as good, alternator bad, bad all around they said. In fact, i threw the yukon battery in my trailblazer, which has been sitting for a year, and she started right up. Been driving that in the meantime.
 
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Scottydoggs

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take the alt off take it to a autozone and have them test it. if it fails, buy a new one.
 
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Jberry86

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It was bad, they tested it and i did buy a new one. No change.
 

TahoeLTZ2012

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Just a thought, but likely not the problem.
Could it be the notorious bad battery ground? Try wiggling the cables from the battery to see if you hear anything clicking on.
 
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Jberry86

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Just a thought, but likely not the problem.
Could it be the notorious bad battery ground? Try wiggling the cables from the battery to see if you hear anything clicking on.
I had read that too.. the grounds appear to be tight. I am able to get good ground off block, body and frame. When i connect to battery, i can hear fuel pump or ecm powering up. Getting 12v along the positive cable, 12v at mega fuse, 12v at fuse block, 12v on fuses.. all except those that aren't getting power.

Everything had been 100% fine, i never had any jumping gauges or possessed locks, nothing. Just completely came out of nowhere.

It's some kind of communication issue. My cheap obd2 scanner can communicate. I think that means the ecm is ok??
 

PG01

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New alt could be bad out of the box but in some of these trucks the fuse block underhood gets corrosion in between the 2 halves. Under the cover are 2 gray handles, carefully pull up on them and carefully, carefully carefully pull the 2 halves apart and check it all out. Disconnect battery before doing this though.
 
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Jberry86

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That's true, but would a bad alt alone immobilize the vehicle? No crank, no start.. Not to mention the other issues. I had gone as far as removing the fuse portion from the block, are you saying actually unbolt and remove the block entirely? When I had it apart, like you said, the two handles, it all looked nice and silvery. No green or brown or anything.

Do we know what feeds the lock/unlock fuses in the interior fuse panel? Does it come directly from the BCM?

Thanks for all your help guys, this thing is just so frustrating!
 
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Jberry86

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I did find this..

https://www.justanswer.com/gm/368an-2007-yukon-denali-dome-lights-wont-on.html

GM Mechanic: goodwrench9124
Ok, here is where it gets tough. this system needs to be scanned with a high end scan tool to make some data checks. like I said before, the body control module is in control of the lighting. since the dome lights don't work at all with any of the doors, I suspect a problem with the body control module. here is how the dome lights work in this vehicle.



The courtesy/illuminated entry lamps, may be manually turned ON or OFF by placing the interior lamp switch in the ON or OFF position. If an outside door handle is lifted and a door is opened, the courtesy/illuminated entry lamps illuminate. After all the doors have been closed the courtesy/illuminated entry lamps will remain illuminated approximately 15 seconds. The body control module (BCM) will then turn them OFF through the theater dimming feature. The courtesy/illuminated entry lamps will also turn ON prior to any door being opened, and remain illuminated approximately 40 seconds when the driver removes the ignition key. When the driver places the dome lamp defeat switch in the OFF position, the courtesy/illuminated entry lamps will be disabled.

The BCM, the door switches, and the liftgate module (LGM) (if equipped with power liftgate) communicate through the GMLAN serial data circuit for the lamp illumination commands of the doors, liftgate, and liftglass open/ajar switch signals. The LGM receives a ground signal from the pawl switch, ratchet switch, and liftglass ajar switch that are located within the liftgate latch and liftglass latch. For all vehicles, the left and right rear door latch switches are both on one circuit that is also an input to the BCM.

This is what worries me. My courtesy fuse is good and receiving power, you'd think the courtesy lights would be on. I can't manually turn them on at all. Such a headache.
 

PG01

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No on the alt immobilizing vehicle. did youcheck all the fuses by the side of the dash where you found the severed wire, bunch of bcm fuses in there for everything you are having probs with...ideas
 

swathdiver

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There's bound to be either CEL or internal BCM codes that need to be seen to know what's going on inside. Where do you live Joey? Maybe someone here lives nearby and has the proper scan tool like a Tech2.
 
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Jberry86

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They're all good and receiving power with the exception of the unlock/lock fuses and swc_bklt which are good fuses, but not receiving power. I can remove the fuse and check the socket with test light or meter and there's no power.
 

Doubeleive

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you checked all your fuse at the battery?, the ground cables are also known to go bad just because it looks ok doesn't mean it is
 
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Jberry86

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There's bound to be either CEL or internal BCM codes that need to be seen to know what's going on inside. Where do you live Joey? Maybe someone here lives nearby and has the proper scan tool like a Tech2.
Yeah, definitely needs to be scanned. I'm in oklahoma city. I could tow it to the shop, i just wish i could do this myself.
 
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Jberry86

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you checked all your fuse at the battery?, the ground cables are also known to go bad just because it looks ok doesn't mean it is
Yeah, there's just the one mega fuse and power is passing through it.
 

swathdiver

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You can buy your own Tech2, they've come way down in price and are an essential tool for working on these trucks.

It would be helpful if the forum owner created a map of where everyone lives (should they choose to participate) that way we can help each other out in person. Sorry, too far away to come on over!
 

kbuskill

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You can buy your own Tech2, they've come way down in price and are an essential tool for working on these trucks.

It would be helpful if the forum owner created a map of where everyone lives (should they choose to participate) that way we can help each other out in person. Sorry, too far away to come on over!

We have a map showing members locations on another forum (motorcycle) I am a member of. It is simply a Google map with overlays that is maintained by a couple of the members.

They only enter your location by zip code that way no one feels uncomfortable by listing specific home addresses and by doing it that way it also doesn't become a tool for any would be thieves or vandals. To get added to the list you simply get a hold of one of them and give them your zip code. They add you to the map with your location denoted by your avatar on the forum and your forum name. The guys that maintain it usually pop into any new members introduction thread and welcome them and ask if they want to be added to the map.
 
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Jberry86

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Wow, that's pretty awesome.. Worth a look definitely.

I had been looking on ebay for one. I guess they're mostly knockoffs, but should get the job done, right?
 

Scottydoggs

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china clone tech 2's seem to work just fine, still like 300 bucks, but better then a couple grand.

theres a site dgate.com iirc. the more you buy the cheaper they get, was trying for a group buy on another forum but it fell flat.
 

swathdiver

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Don't know about ebay Tech2s, bought mine from the factory in China that makes/made them for Vetronix. Some of the menu options are different, as they are compared with older versions of the Tech2 made by Bosch and OTC but it does what I need it to do and use it almost daily.
 

KATfishing

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With all due respect, this would be one of those times that I would pay to have a professional diagnostic done... too many possibilities. I know for a DIY-er it's a painful thought, but you could still choose to do the repairs yourself (or not) once you have a proper diagnostic.
 
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