AFM DFM Conundrum

[DrDra]

Wondering if it’s smart for me to plug in an AFM/DFM disable device into my 2019 Tahoe w/ 35k miles?

 

[Marky Dissod]

Wondering if it’s smart for me to plug in an AFM/DFM disable device into my 2019 Tahoe w/ 35k miles?

Best time to disable Cylinder Deactivation was 35,000 miles ago. Second best time is now.
Since you're asking, you likely haven't found your plugin yet,
so use the shifter to manually avoid final gear and drastically reduce Cylinder Deactivation.

 

[DrDra]

Best time to disable Cylinder Deactivation was 35,000 miles ago. Second best time is now.
Since you're asking, you likely haven't found your plugin yet,
so use the shifter to manually avoid final gear and drastically reduce Cylinder Deactivation.

How do I use the shifter to manually avoid the final gear?
Thanks for your help!

 

[DrDra]

How do I use the shifter to manually avoid the final gear?
Thanks for your help!

I googled it. Got it! Question: Will this device be adequate?

 

[PPK_]

better than doing nothing. however.. it does allow the 5.3 to use DFM during coasting. bummer. i use carbyte. it works on deceleration too. and you can use 10th gear.

while you are working this... do implement a wash of the intakes with solvent... as the intake cokes up with what comes in from the intake.. this is what contributes to loosing a lifter. also install a catch can to eliminate a lot of oil on the intake valves... and think about using a 5w30 oil. the heavier oil does reduce how much comes oil off the intake...

 

[DrDra]

better than doing nothing. however.. it does allow the 5.3 to use DFM during coasting. bummer. i use carbyte. it works on deceleration too. and you can use 10th gear.

while you are working this... do implement a wash of the intakes with solvent... as the intake cokes up with what comes in from the intake.. this is what contributes to loosing a lifter. also install a catch can to eliminate a lot of oil on the intake valves... and think about using a 5w30 oil. the heavier oil does reduce how much comes oil off the intake...

Thank you!!

 

[DrDra]

better than doing nothing. however.. it does allow the 5.3 to use DFM during coasting. bummer. i use carbyte. it works on deceleration too. and you can use 10th gear.

while you are working this... do implement a wash of the intakes with solvent... as the intake cokes up with what comes in from the intake.. this is what contributes to loosing a lifter. also install a catch can to eliminate a lot of oil on the intake valves... and think about using a 5w30 oil. the heavier oil does reduce how much comes oil off the intake...

I’m going to buy the carbyte.
I also have a 2014 Tahoe with 100k miles. Should i put one of these in their too?

 

[Rygrego]

Wondering if it’s smart for me to plug in an AFM/DFM disable device into my 2019 Tahoe w/ 35k miles?

I installed a Range disabler in my 2016 Yukon with 50,000 miles when I purchased it in 2019. I figure if the lifters don't get to collapse they won't be able to get stuck collapsed. A little over 105,000 and zero issues. And fuel economy is not compromised at all. There is no good argument not use one. I do change my oil religiously at 5000 miles max with 5W-30 in the Arizona winter and 15W-40 in the Arizona summer, no 0W-20 for me ever.

 

[Marky Dissod]

I’m going to buy the carbyte.
I also have a 2014 Tahoe with 100k miles. Should i put one of these in their too?

You should get that vehicle's ecm & tcm tuned. It'll disable cylinder deactivation, among many other things.
Shop around for a person who will update your tuning stereotypes by answering your questions.
The goal is to tune your vehicle to suit your tastes and use cases (which is why I never recommend 'canned' tunes),
the major side benefits are that the engine and transmission will last longer in addition to behaving more like you'd prefer, whatever that is.

 

[pronstar]

I figure if the lifters don't get to collapse they won't be able to get stuck collapsed.

I used to think that, too…until a lifter failed at 115k miles

 

[C1E2]

I bought and installed the AFM disabler almost a year ago. Found this one on Amazon (https://a.co/d/05DPjgno). It has a very small "footprint" so it doesn't stick out and get caught on things like I think other might. I got this because I was starting to have lifter issues and since then I've had no trouble. I do expect that this is a temporary fix and I'm going to need to install a delete kit sometime soon (178k on my 2016 LTZ).

So that being said, can anyone recommend a delete kit? I'm not looking to put a new cam in, I don't think it's necessary.

 

[intergalactron]

I bought and installed the AFM disabler almost a year ago. Found this one on Amazon (https://a.co/d/05DPjgno). It has a very small "footprint" so it doesn't stick out and get caught on things like I think other might. I got this because I was starting to have lifter issues and since then I've had no trouble. I do expect that this is a temporary fix and I'm going to need to install a delete kit sometime soon (178k on my 2016 LTZ).

So that being said, can anyone recommend a delete kit? I'm not looking to put a new cam in, I don't think it's necessary.

If memory serves, to do a proper mechanical delete, you have to replace the cam. The AFM lobes are different than the non-AFM lobes.

That said, Brian Tooley Racing, Texas Speed, and AMS Racing all have kits. Very comparable components and cost.

 

[C1E2]

Hmm, well it I have to, I have to. Thanks for the references on that.

I would love to hear from someone that did the delete themselves. How long did it take and where there any parts not included in the kits that you found you needed? Or are there any parts that would be good to replace proactively while everything is apart?

 

[intergalactron]

Hmm, well it I have to, I have to. Thanks for the references on that.

I would love to hear from someone that did the delete themselves. How long did it take and where there any parts not included in the kits that you found you needed? Or are there any parts that would be good to replace proactively while everything is apart?

I've done a Gen 4 and am currently in the middle of doing my second Gen 5. The Gen 5's have been overhauls with the AFM deletes, so that's hard to compare. The Gen 4 took me and a friend about 20-25 hours to get thru. There's a lot of stuff to remove before you can get down to the heads and timing cover. None of it is particularly hard to do, just takes time. The most underrated thing you can get for the job is a fuel line release tool.

The Gen 4 kit I got from AMS (I think) was very complete. The only thing I recall it missing was the cam phaser bolt. Any other odds and ends you might need are generally available at your local parts store.

Some people proactively replace the water pump, vacuum pump, plugs, wires, etc, just depends on how far you want to go. If the kit you buy doesn't have a timing set, I'd seriously consider replacing that. At 176K you've likely got some stretch on that timing chain. And also get a new tensioner for the timing chain.

And finally, you'll need some way to turn off the AFM in the computer. It'll probably cost you a couple hundred bucks to have a tuner turn it off. Or you can buy a tuner from Superchips or etc. for $500 or so.

 

[C1E2]

I've done a Gen 4 and am currently in the middle of doing my second Gen 5. The Gen 5's have been overhauls with the AFM deletes, so that's hard to compare. The Gen 4 took me and a friend about 20-25 hours to get thru. There's a lot of stuff to remove before you can get down to the heads and timing cover. None of it is particularly hard to do, just takes time. The most underrated thing you can get for the job is a fuel line release tool.

The Gen 4 kit I got from AMS (I think) was very complete. The only thing I recall it missing was the cam phaser bolt. Any other odds and ends you might need are generally available at your local parts store.

Some people proactively replace the water pump, vacuum pump, plugs, wires, etc, just depends on how far you want to go. If the kit you buy doesn't have a timing set, I'd seriously consider replacing that. At 176K you've likely got some stretch on that timing chain. And also get a new tensioner for the timing chain.

And finally, you'll need some way to turn off the AFM in the computer. It'll probably cost you a couple hundred bucks to have a tuner turn it off. Or you can buy a tuner from Superchips or etc. for $500 or so.

Great info! I didn't think that deep about the other maintenance parts but those are great ideas. I'll have to dig deep and see if I can shell out for some headers and exhaust at that time too...LOL. I think I can convince my buddy's a work to split a tuner, we have plenty of cars that could benefit from having one. Thanks for the info, I'll try to make a post about the project with picture for others whenever the time comes.

 

[intergalactron]

Great info! I didn't think that deep about the other maintenance parts but those are great ideas. I'll have to dig deep and see if I can shell out for some headers and exhaust at that time too...LOL. I think I can convince my buddy's a work to split a tuner, we have plenty of cars that could benefit from having one. Thanks for the info, I'll try to make a post about the project with picture for others whenever the time comes.

If you're going to split a canned tuner with a buddy, make sure that it supports multiple vehicles.

 

[pronstar]

There are also two paths to consider: pull the motor, or work on it with the motor in place.

If you pull the motor, it’s a lot easier to do the job, plus easier to get to quite a lot of other parts that you should consider changing.

But it also takes work/time to pull the motor.

 

[intergalactron]

There are also two paths to consider: pull the motor, or work on it with the motor in place.

If you pull the motor, it’s a lot easier to do the job, plus easier to get to quite a lot of other parts that you should consider changing.

But it also takes work/time to pull the motor.

You could also consider lifting the body off the chassis. But that requires a lift that you can occupy for a while while you work on the motor.