Accelerator Pedal Sensor Wiring Damage - SOLVED

[PopoPackage2011]

Hey everyone,

It seems the wires got pulled out of the connector on my pedal sensor. (see images)
I see you can buy replacement pigtails, I am just wondering what color wire goes to which port? I will need to know what to resplice?

Or does it not matter?

Any help greatly appreciated...

 

[Fless]

From this page:

System Diagram — 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li

Use the links at the top of the page to verify your year and model.

Based on your username (why not put your vehicle info in your signature?), below is a diagram of the TPS wiring.

 

[PopoPackage2011]

From this page:

System Diagram — 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li

Use the links at the top of the page to verify your year and model.

Based on your username (why not put your vehicle info in your signature?), below is a diagram of the TPS wiring.


View attachment 457780

T

From this page:

System Diagram — 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li

Use the links at the top of the page to verify your year and model.

Based on your username (why not put your vehicle info in your signature?), below is a diagram of the TPS wiring.


View attachment 457780

I picked up a replacement pigtail, clips into sensor but wires are a different gauge. Crimping different gauge wires i'd assume is a no-no?

I tried fooling with existing wires and clip, it seems I got all the wires stuck back into the right holes but still giving me the same CEL/ Reduced Engine Power. Id also assume its a pain even with the right tool or impossible to repair the ripped out wires?

 

[mikez71]

You could strip the wires and recrimp the proper terminals on, if there's enough length in the wire.
The proper crimp tool makes a nice precise crimp. I got mine in kit from ebay. It came with a selection of plugs/terminals.

But splicing a replacement pigtail is just as good, plus faster and cheaper.
Are the new wires on your pigtail thinner?

 

[PopoPackage2011]

You could strip the wires and recrimp the proper terminals on, if there's enough length in the wire.
The proper crimp tool makes a nice precise crimp. I got mine in kit from ebay. It came with a selection of plugs/terminals.

But splicing a replacement pigtail is just as good, plus faster and cheaper.
Are the new wires on your pigtail thinner?

Pigtail wires thicker. I just tried crimping, same problem. Probably a bad crimp.

Are you referring to splicing with wire nuts?

 

[mikez71]

Thicker pigtail will be fine.
I usually butt splice and heatshrink it..
(barrel style crimp connectors, dont get the cheap ones)

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

T

I picked up a replacement pigtail, clips into sensor but wires are a different gauge. Crimping different gauge wires i'd assume is a no-no?

I tried fooling with existing wires and clip, it seems I got all the wires stuck back into the right holes but still giving me the same CEL/ Reduced Engine Power. Id also assume its a pain even with the right tool or impossible to repair the ripped out wires?

This must absolutely be done correctly. As in, correct wires to correct spots on the connector.
I had a busted wire near my Throttle body position sensor connector and crossed a wire replacing the connector with pigtail.
I even triple checked!!

Later on the dealership told me that fried my brand new pedal sensor. They switched it back, and installed a new pedal. I still have yet to pull it apart and verify that they did in fact correct the wiring.

 

[PopoPackage2011]

This must absolutely be done correctly. As in, correct wires to correct spots on the connector.
I had a busted wire near my Throttle body position sensor connector and crossed a wire replacing the connector with pigtail.
I even triple checked!!

Later on the dealership told me that fried my brand new pedal sensor. They switched it back, and installed a new pedal. I still have yet to pull it apart and verify that they did in fact correct the wiring.

Did you crimp it, solder it, or what was your method of getting those wires together? Also, did your new pigtail clip have larger wires coming out of it than the truck's harness?

 

[89Suburban]

Did you crimp it, solder it, or what was your method of getting those wires together? Also, did your new pigtail clip have larger wires coming out of it than the truck's harness?

Don’t worry about the wire sizes. Use the heat shrink solder butt connectors they sell now. I avoid crimp connectors whenever possible. Especially on these types of circuits/ harnesses.

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

Did you crimp it, solder it, or what was your method of getting those wires together? Also, did your new pigtail clip have larger wires coming out of it than the truck's harness?

Mine was soldered. This is one of the places you want the best connection possible. Agree with @89Suburban, the solder-melt shrink style are a great option. I probably would use those instead of soldering in the interior.

Agree again with 89suburban, wire size difference is ok. I'm pretty sure the GM genuine connector did have 16, while the harness had 18. So yes, it was bigger.
I would not use smaller wires on the connector than the harness, obviously, but stepping up is fine.

 

[PopoPackage2011]

This actually doesnt seem right compared to what my pigtail looked like before I removed everything. The purple was

From this page:

System Diagram — 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li

Use the links at the top of the page to verify your year and model.

Based on your username (why not put your vehicle info in your signature?), below is a diagram of the TPS wiring.


View attachment 457780

Mine was soldered. This is one of the places you want the best connection possible. Agree with @89Suburban, the solder-melt shrink style are a great option. I probably would use those instead of soldering in the interior.

Agree again with 89suburban, wire size difference is ok. I'm pretty sure the GM genuine connector did have 16, while the harness had 18. So yes, it was bigger.
I would not use smaller wires on the connector than the harness, obviously, but stepping up is fine.

Did you have a shop solder it? Or you did it yourself? Just wondering what a job like that would cost in a shop. I have solder and a gun but am no master, its a rough position to work in too, under the dash....
The way it sits now, I either have a bad crimp or am not following the color pattern right. Throttle pedal wiring is nothing to play around with. Safety first... heh

Thanks for info

From this page:

System Diagram — 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li

Use the links at the top of the page to verify your year and model.

Based on your username (why not put your vehicle info in your signature?), below is a diagram of the TPS wiring.


View attachment 457780

Do I follow this diagram in alphabetical order when matching wire to pin? I must have to, purple is first in line, it was the only wire not ripped out of the connector. This threw me off... Thanks buddy

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

This actually doesnt seem right compared to what my pigtail looked like before I removed everything. The purple was



Did you have a shop solder it? Or you did it yourself? Just wondering what a job like that would cost in a shop. I have solder and a gun but am no master, its a rough position to work in too, under the dash....
The way it sits now, I either have a bad crimp or am not following the color pattern right. Throttle pedal wiring is nothing to play around with. Safety first... heh

Thanks for info

Do I follow this diagram in alphabetical order when matching wire to pin? I must have to, purple is first in line, it was the only wire not ripped out of the connector. This threw me off... Thanks buddy

My old man did it, he is much better than I am.
No idea on the shop cost.

If you can get connectors like these, you should be able to do it no problem. Requires a heat gun.
Go to Amazon, type in "solder butt connectors heat shrink USA"
You can leave out USA if you want for a 90% discount in price but also quality LOL.
Probably available locally too, IE auto parts or hardware store.
Also type into YouTube for tips...

Would you like a photo of my pedal connector or are you good on order?

 

[PopoPackage2011]

My old man did it, he is much better than I am.
No idea on the shop cost.

If you can get connectors like these, you should be able to do it no problem. Requires a heat gun.
Go to Amazon, type in "solder butt connectors heat shrink USA"
You can leave out USA if you want for a 90% discount in price but also quality LOL.
Probably available locally too, IE auto parts or hardware store.
Also type into YouTube for tips...

Would you like a photo of my pedal connector or are you good on order?

A clear photo with wire order would be killer
Much appreciated

 

[Fless]

Everything I've posted relates to what I assume to be your model and year; I don't recall you confirming that, so take this for what it's worth. Otherwise look up your actual vehicle on the charm.li site -- or on your choice of service data -- and find the similar diagrams.

On an inline connector like that the pin numbers or alpha characters will be in numerical or alphabetic order (1-2-3-4-5-6, or A-B-C-D-E-F). The electrical schematic doesn't show them in their physical order, but does note which color wire mates with which pin location/position. You may need a magnifying glass to see the pin numbers or alphas on your connector, but they should be molded in.

I'm confused by the connector that you showed in post #11; is your purple wire on the left end like that one, or on the other end?

See this diagram for what I assume to be your connector:

Throttle Position Sensor — 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li

Maybe the diagrams I've been posting aren't for your vehicle.

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

@Fless your opinion is highly regarded.

Do you think it's likely the pedal wiring is different for a 2011 2wd vs a 2012 4wd?
I was thinking it's highly likely they are the same, but what do I know?

 

[Fless]

@Fless your opinion is highly regarded.

Do you think it's likely the pedal wiring is different for a 2011 2wd vs a 2012 4wd?
I was thinking it's highly likely they are the same, but what do I know?

According to charm.li they are identical between those two years. I would expect GM to be consistent with those types of wiring colors throughout the similar body style.

I don't have access to anything other than charm.li, so it's hard to tell what's right. Based on the OP's first set of pics, the purple wire is in the totally opposite position from what's shown in the online diagrams and pinouts.

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

According to charm.li they are identical between those two years. I would expect GM to be consistent with those types of wiring colors throughout the similar body style.

I don't have access to anything other than charm.li, so it's hard to tell what's right. Based on the OP's first set of pics, the purple wire is in the totally opposite position from what's shown in the online diagrams and pinouts.

I checked the pedal part number on RA. Both possibilities reference mating connector 13584094 (GM genuine not available).

Idk what's up w/diagram, but mine matches @PopoPackage2011 's photo. Gotta be the same...

 

[OBSandaNNBS]

A clear photo with wire order would be killer
Much appreciated

See photo in above post. That is taken in real position. IE bottom of photo is closer to ground.

Top to bottom mine are:
Brown
Dark blue
White with black stripe. (Black with white stripe?)
Orange/red
Light blue
Purple


Ignore rust on crosscar beam

 

[Fless]

The connector view that I posted from charm.li, from what I can tell, is the harness connector view.

 

[PopoPackage2011]

Everything I've posted relates to what I assume to be your model and year; I don't recall you confirming that, so take this for what it's worth. Otherwise look up your actual vehicle on the charm.li site -- or on your choice of service data -- and find the similar diagrams.

On an inline connector like that the pin numbers or alpha characters will be in numerical or alphabetic order (1-2-3-4-5-6, or A-B-C-D-E-F). The electrical schematic doesn't show them in their physical order, but does note which color wire mates with which pin location/position. You may need a magnifying glass to see the pin numbers or alphas on your connector, but they should be molded in.

I'm confused by the connector that you showed in post #11; is your purple wire on the left end like that one, or on the other end?

See this diagram for what I assume to be your connector:

Throttle Position Sensor — 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD V8-5.3L.

charm.li

Maybe the diagrams I've been posting aren't for your vehicle.

Photo in post 11 is off an autoparts website. I used that as a reference as my purple wire was the only one not pulled out, and it was in the port shown in post 11.

After I figured the schematic you pulled was not for my 2011 2WD PPV Hoe I searched google to try and find a pigtail with colored wires.

After seeing OBSandaNNBS's photo, and comparing it to my googlesearch photo, I just realized I switched the brown and black/white wires when splicing. Going to swap those correctly, and see if my crimps even work at all with the wires landed correctly.

Is there a sensor reset procedure after replacing sensor or playing with harness???


At the rate my relationship with this police Hoe has been going- I may have fried the pedal position sensor.....
Before noticing this sensor connector issue I had the front clip off and cleaned up a bunch of grounds, removed all the *BUTCHERED OFF* Police siren/flasher/aux wiring and cleaned up some other stuff up front, then under dash.

This truck may have came from Gwinett County, GA Sheriff's department, but I guarantee it was decommissioned by Jason from Friday the 13th.