A/C Compressor Clutch?

[Billydunwoody]

You all have been helpful in the past.
I am trying to figure out if my A/C compressor clutch needs to be replaced. The A/C and heater works fine, there are no leaks, no check engine codes and the freon charge is perfect however whenever I turn the A/C on, the compressor makes a bit of noise, almost like the clutch is engaging on and off every 10 seconds. It is a little annoying if the music isn't on.
I am wondering if changing out the compressor clutch will help that or if it is normal for the compressor to do that?
Thanks

 

[Geotrash]

You all have been helpful in the past.
I am trying to figure out if my A/C compressor clutch needs to be replaced. The A/C and heater works fine, there are no leaks, no check engine codes and the freon charge is perfect however whenever I turn the A/C on, the compressor makes a bit of noise, almost like the clutch is engaging on and off every 10 seconds. It is a little annoying if the music isn't on.
I am wondering if changing out the compressor clutch will help that or if it is normal for the compressor to do that?
Thanks

There is a product called the Deslugger that is designed to do that to prevent the low-mounted compressor from getting damaged due to too much oil or refrigerant at cold startup. If you are the 2nd owner of this truck, it's possible the previous owner installed one to solve a slugging problem. It's installed in line with the compressor wiring and usually mounted to the frame near the compressor. Have a look and if you find one you may be able to safely delete it.

 

[Billydunwoody]

There is a product called the Deslugger that is designed to do that to prevent the low-mounted compressor from getting damaged due to too much oil or refrigerant at cold startup. If you are the 2nd owner of this truck, it's possible the previous owner installed one to solve a slugging problem. It's installed in line with the compressor wiring and usually mounted to the frame near the compressor. Have a look and if you find one you may be able to safely delete it.

I will look and let you know, thank you for that info! I am the second owner, the first and original owner was Border Patrol and it was used on the Border in Arizona.

 

[OR VietVet]

How long have you owned the vehicle and has it always done that or did it just start recently? If you owned over a year and it did not do this last season, it could be something else. It could actually be low on charge and cycling more than normal. It could have a failing low pressure cycling switch at the accumulator. Is the noise a clicking of the clutch cycling on and off? Is it a bearing noise when it engages and does it every 10 seconds? If you could record and then post at you tube and then post a link here, that would help.

 

[Billydunwoody]

How long have you owned the vehicle and has it always done that or did it just start recently? If you owned over a year and it did not do this last season, it could be something else. It could actually be low on charge and cycling more than normal. It could have a failing low pressure cycling switch at the accumulator. Is the noise a clicking of the clutch cycling on and off? Is it a bearing noise when it engages and does it every 10 seconds? If you could record and then post at you tube and then post a link here, that would help.

I think it’s done this since owning it since Nov 2021 but can’t remember. It’s def more noticeable. Yes its a clicking of the clutch cycling on and off. Ill try and post a video in an hour

 

[swathdiver]

I think it’s done this since owning it since Nov 2021 but can’t remember. It’s def more noticeable. Yes its a clicking of the clutch cycling on and off. Ill try and post a video in an hour

Cycling on and off is a sign of low refrigerant.

 

[Billydunwoody]

Ok, after filming it it seems like its going on and off. Went to O’Reilly and they tested the refrigerant level and it was perfect (green). I did not see any Deslugger either. Here is the video. Could it be a bad pressure switch?

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, after filming it it seems like its going on and off. Went to O’Reilly and they tested the refrigerant level and it was perfect (green). I did not see any Deslugger either. Here is the video. Could it be a bad pressure switch?

O'Reilly gauge is just a "close enough" gauge. Plus the ambient temp makes a difference when testing and checking pressures. That sure sounds like a low charge cycling noise but it was not that often. I think it is just "slightly" low and a top off would cure it, BUT, you can let go and I would bet that what interior temp feels ok now will not be ok when it is hotter outside. Hell, I don't even know where you are from and what the ambient temp is there.

 

[Billydunwoody]

O'Reilly gauge is just a "close enough" gauge. Plus the ambient temp makes a difference when testing and checking pressures. That sure sounds like a low charge cycling noise but it was not that often. I think it is just "slightly" low and a top off would cure it, BUT, you can let go and I would bet that what interior temp feels ok now will not be ok when it is hotter outside. Hell, I don't even know where you are from and what the ambient temp is there.

Thanks. I will have my mechanic put it on real a/c gauges on my next oil change. We live in Los Angeles, ambient temp right now is 60’s but it will be getting hot soon lol. Luckily, it still blows cold for a/c and hot for the heater

 

[OR VietVet]

One thing to remember, the system is not supposed to leak. If is low, then you have a leak, even if it is a real small leak. Something that slow is typically at the shrader valves, service ports. When you have the tech check the pressures, remove the threaded caps and have him check there for leaks first. The threaded caps have o-ring seals and really slow a small leak down. If is leaking, he can recover the existing refrigerant, install new shrader valves, evacuate the system and recharge. I am of the opinion that when a system is opened up, you did not give the year of your vehicle till I saw it in the video, that if old enough-yours is, replace the accumulator and the orifice while it is open and if original switch, do the low pressure switch on the accumulator.

 

[Billydunwoody]

I got a guage myself and realized why the O’Reilly guy said it was good. He was measuring it when the compressor was not engaging. I got a gauge myself and when the compressor engaged, it went to the LOW side. I got an small r134a recharge bottle and the problem is almost fixed(barely hit the green, compressor doesnt do that noise on Max AC). Once that otber blttle goes in tomorrow, it should be perfect in the green and no more cycling noise on normal AC.
Yall were right!

 

[Geotrash]

I got a guage myself and realized why the O’Reilly guy said it was good. He was measuring it when the compressor was not engaging. I got a gauge myself and when the compressor engaged, it went to the LOW side. I got an small r134a recharge bottle and the problem is almost fixed(barely hit the green, compressor doesnt do that noise on Max AC). Once that otber blttle goes in tomorrow, it should be perfect in the green and no more cycling noise on normal AC.
Yall were right!

It's real easy to overcharge these things, so I'd stop at one can if it's running normally again.

The only way to do it accurately is to have the system evacuated professionally, then draw a vacuum on to for 45 minutes to get all traces of moisture and air out of it, and then add r134a by weight to the amount shown on the placard in the engine compartment using a proper gauge set. My XL Denali takes 2.1 lbs of refrigerant. And as already suggested, replace those Schrader valves before you charge it as they're the most likely culprit for the leak.

 

[j91z28d1]

yeah, if you have a mechanic you usually use and does ac. have them evacuate the system, replace the high and low valve core as said, the high side gm always leak. it's annoying and refill the system with the correct amount by weight. trying to fill a system by a gauge and get it right is kinda hard to do and kinda close at best.

 

[Billydunwoody]

Thanks. Ill leave it as is for now and mext month’s oil change I will have him do a full evacuate and recharge of the a/c

 

[OR VietVet]

Any good shop and good tech with good equipment can measure the amount that comes out and then can adjust as needed to recharge to the correct full amount.

I will say again, replace the accumulator, the orifice and the low pressure switch at same time. The accumulator is the moisture filter for the system and is of unknown age. The rest is cheap and important.

 

[Billydunwoody]

Any good shop and good tech with good equipment can measure the amount that comes out and then can adjust as needed to recharge to the correct full amount.

I will say again, replace the accumulator, the orifice and the low pressure switch at same time. The accumulator is the moisture filter for the system and is of unknown age. The rest is cheap and important.

Absolutely, parts ordered on RockAuto.
Thanks!

 

[UmmScott]

One thing to remember, the system is not supposed to leak. If is low, then you have a leak, even if it is a real small leak. Something that slow is typically at the shrader valves, service ports. When you have the tech check the pressures, remove the threaded caps and have him check there for leaks first. The threaded caps have o-ring seals and really slow a small leak down. If is leaking, he can recover the existing refrigerant, install new shrader valves, evacuate the system and recharge. I am of the opinion that when a system is opened up, you did not give the year of your vehicle till I saw it in the video, that if old enough-yours is, replace the accumulator and the orifice while it is open and if original switch, do the low pressure switch on the accumulator.

Nailed it.