6L80 Sonnax ZIP Kit, Pressure Switch rebuild, remote filter install, and fluid flush in 2013 Escalade ESV (Pic heavy)

[skpyle]

Hello Gentlemen,

Over the past few days, I have completed the following work to the 6L80 transmission in my 2013 Escalade ESV:
-rebuilt the TECHM pressure switches using Sonnax parts
-installed most of the Sonnax ZIP kit in the valve body
-replaced the filter
-installed a new pan with a drain plug
-installed a remote spin on filter assembly
-flushed the fluid

I have had this new-to-me Escalade for two weeks tomorrow. I am catching up on maintenance and fluid changes that I feel need to be done. The truck has 124,*** miles on it, 1,000 of those I have put on.

I have a 'thing' for automatic transmissions, I want them to function as best as possible. This means lots of fluid changes for clean fluid, better filtration, and improvements from shift kits and such. This being a Cadillac, the transmission is tuned for softer shifts. I don't want softer shifts. I want positive shifts that will prolong the life of the transmission. (I will be putting in a Black Bear tune to improve the transmission shift characteristics as well.)

4 gallons of Dexron VI, new transmission pan with nut and drain plug welded on, new GM filter, new GM TECHM solenoid filter plate, new GM heated oxygen sensor, new GM exhaust manifold to pipe seals, Sonnax ZIP kit, Sonnax pressure switch rebuild kit and tools, used remote oil filter mount with new filter, new Derale 3/8" ID transmission cooling hose, new WIX filter for the remote mount later.


Researching here on tahoeyukon forum, I have learned that the exhaust crossover pipe must be lowered to gain enough clearance to remove the transmission pan. From what I understand, there is no getting around this. So, I dropped the exhaust from the manifolds.

Exhaust crossover pipe is tight up against the transmission pan.


This is a whole new world for me. I grew up in Ohio, and cut my teeth on 70's and 80's GM cars. They were all RUSTY! My Explorer was rusty. There is no way I would have been able to drop the exhaust without a cutting torch. On this Escalade, the only rust I have found is on untreated cast iron surfaces. I was able to remove the passenger's side upstream oxygen sensor with no fuss. I had to remove the oxygen sensor because 1) it blocked access to one of the exhaust manifold nuts, and 2) it needed to be replaced. I left the newly installed driver's side upstream oxygen sensor installed because it was not blocking any nuts and its cable had plenty of slack in it.

Passenger's side upstream oxygen sensor blocking access to one of the exhaust manifold nuts.

Driver's side upstream oxygen sensor is not blocking anything. Note the drops of AeroKroil on the end of the exhaust manifold studs.


I was able to break loose all of the exhaust manifold nuts with no real problem. NOTE: I had been soaking the nuts with AeroKroil for a week just in case. I had to get creative with a deep well 15mm socket, 15mm flare crow's foot, a universal joint, and lots of extensions. That, and I did have to disconnect the front drive shaft from the front axle and move it aside to get my fat hands up to the manifold nuts. With the nuts off, the exhaust dropped enough that it looked like I would be able to pull the transmission pan.

Front drive shaft makes it tough to get my fat hands up there.

 

[skpyle]

I unbolted the U-joint, pulled the shaft back to compress the rear joint, and then moved the shaft towards the engine to get more clearance. (Ignore the dripping oil filter. The selling dealership screwed up installing the oil filter. I fixed that after this work.)

Clearance at the driver's side exhaust manifold after dropping the exhaust. This matters for installing the new seals later.

Clearance at the passenger's side manifold with the exhaust dropped.

Clearance at the transmission pan with the exhaust crossover pipe lowered.


Having taken my fair share of ATF showers in the past, I try to avoid that nowadays. I sucked as much fluid out of the transmission pan as I could get with my vacuum extractor. Hose down the dipstick and pump up the vacuum. Taking a trick from others here on the forum, I lowered the edge of the pan, then sucked out as much fluid as I could from the edge of the pan. Meaning I didn't spill or wear any ATF removing the pan.

I removed maybe 5 qts. The fluid was red, but not really clear. Which I expected.

My vacuum fluid extractor.

 

[skpyle]

Sucking fluid out of the transmission pan via the dipstick tube.

Fluid was dark red. But not brown. Or black. Or chunky.


I was very relieved to find the pan clean. There was only a film of material on the bottom, and not alot of sludge on the magnet. The reusable gasket was fine, as well.

I removed the fluid filter to expose the valve body. The ATF shower I avoided earlier was waiting on me. The service manual via AllData.com said to pull straight down, and not to twist the filter body. Which is what I did. Which is why it suddenly popped free and rotated, slinging fluid at me until I could toss it in the drain pan. Grrrr...
This is why I bought several rolls of shop towels for this job. I always make a mess doing fluid work.

Fluid filter of doom...

Valve body, with the TECHM in the upper foreground.

 

[skpyle]

There is a gotcha waiting for the unprepared. Both the service manual, and the Sonnax ZIP kit instructions state the six bolts that secure the valve body to the transmission case have an EP10 Torx Plus head. The service manual calls for this: DT-48285 - Valve Body Torx Plus Socket. I cross referenced it and bought this from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RKOAM0?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

EP10 Torx Plus socket from Amazon.


Even with the correct socket, the heads of the bolts are shallow. You really have to keep the socket on there straight and tight. Once I had the bolts out, I couldn't get the valve body out. It swung down at the front, but felt like it was hung up at the back. I had pulled the white plastic latch down to release the electrical connection. I put a couple of bolts back in and hit the internet. After a couple of youtube vidoes, I found you have to pull the valve body forward as you drop it to pull it out of the electrical connection. This would have been a good thing for the service manual to mention...

This is the white latch that must be pulled down to release the electrical connection.

Transmission case with the valve body removed.


I very carefully set the valve body on a baking sheet. A new one, I know better than to steal one from the kitchen. (She still hasn't seen the photos of me using the oven to heat the transmission torque converter cover from my Porsche 928S to install new bearings...)
Both the service manual and the Sonnax instructions warn you to take care not to drop or roughly handle the valve body. In English, the TECHM is kinda fragile.

Once at the workbench inside my shop, I placed the valve body in a drain pan, as I figured it would be drooling ATF through this entire process.

Transmission case side of the valve body. Service manual calls this the 'control valve upper body', meaning the top half of the valve body. Noteworthy items are the seals at the front, seals in the middle, and the two black square speed sensors. To my understanding, those are used to measure input and output shaft speeds of the transmission.

I disassembled the valve body in accordance with the instructions in the Sonnax 6L45-6L90-ZIP kit.

This is the lower halve of the valve body.

 

[skpyle]

Upper valve body half with the separator plate still attached.

Upper valve body half showing the 7 check balls.

 

[skpyle]

Let me pause the photos for some information:

I bought all the Sonnax parts off ebay. I thought I would not have time to wait for Rock Auto, and couldn't find the pressure switch rebuild kit on Amazon. Turns out, Sonnax, no longer lists the pressure switch rebuild kit 124740-30K. They do still list the tool kit required to rebuild the pressure switches 124740-TL30.

Here are the ebay listings I used to get the ZIP kit, pressure switch rebuild it, and an additional set of pressure switch rebuild seals and discs. The original Sonnax rebuild kit 124740-30K included 40 seals and discs. The ebay kit only includes 5 seals and discs. Which isn't really a bad thing. I later ordered an additional kit of 5 seals and discs to have for the future. I purchased these items through ebay seller 'maxxindustries' based upon their feedback and availability. I was not disappointed, they shipped quickly and were exactly what was stated.

Sonnax ZIP kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254602621595

Sonnax pressure switch rebuild kit and tools:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254545338132

Additional Sonnax pressure switch seals and discs:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254602539663

 

[skpyle]

Another note: The Sonnax ZIP kit instructions were good overall, but I felt they were lacking in the individual items done. Thinking about it, the ZIP kit is a collection of shift improvement and fluid correction items all grouped into one kit. So, I searched Sonnax's website and found all the instructions for each individual item. That really clarified things for me.
As well, the video on rebuilding the pressure switches really helped.


Sonnax website, 6L80 page:
https://www.sonnax.com/units/301-6l80

Sonnax 6L80 valve body layout:
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/1052-gm-6l45-6l50-6l80-6l90-valve-body-layout

Sonnax 6L45-6L90-ZIP kit:
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/3505/6L45-6L90-ZIP-IN.pdf?v=1634147559277

Sonnax TCC regulator kit:
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/5074/104740-46K-IN.pdf?v=1587561441236

Sonnax pressure switch rebuild kit:
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/instructions/3767/124740-30K-IN.pdf#in_results

Sonnax pressure switch rebuild kit video: (very much worth watching!)
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resourc...-gm-6l45-50-80-90-gen-1-6t70-75-transmissions

Sonnax compensator feed regulator valve kit:
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/1705/104740-09K-IN.pdf?v=1613065921470

Sonnax clutch select valve spring kit:
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/1703/104740-02K-IN.pdf?v=1605553741846

Sonnax actuator feed limit valve kit:
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/5073/104740-47K-IN.pdf?v=1587051847015

Sonnax O-ringed end plug kit:
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/1707/104740-23K-IN.pdf?v=1617297241349

Sonnax Center Support Seal Kit:

https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/3525/104740-14K-IN.pdf?v=1617301216824

 

[skpyle]

I am going to bed now. This thread will take me a few days to complete, as there are many more photos and details I need to post.

 

[Geotrash]

Thank you SO MUCH for sharing your experiencing and making such a thorough writeup. This will be a huge help to many people here, including me. Nice job and I'm looking forward to more info as you're able to share!

 

[skpyle]

Thank you SO MUCH for sharing your experiencing and making such a thorough writeup. This will be a huge help to many people here, including me. Nice job and I'm looking forward to more info as you're able to share!

You are quite welcome!!! When I mentioned I was putting in the Sonnax parts, you requested I document it. So, I am doing so. Stay tuned...

 

[skpyle]

I have worked on the valve bodies on a number of GM, Ford, and Mercedes automatic transmissions, but I would not say I am comfortable with it. So, I put parts removed from each step in a ziplock bag, then marked the bag with the step number, matching figure number, and the sizes of the heads of the bolts.
This way, I could put the right parts and bolts back in the right places and not have to rely on my memory.

Ziplock bag marked with: Valve body halves, 7mm 10mm, (step) 1-g Fig 9.

7mm and 10mm headed bolts that hold the valve body together, removed in step 1-g.

Sonnax ZIP kit instructions showing step 1-g, and referencing figure 9.

Sonnax ZIP kit instructions showing figure 9.



Also, I used my beam type and click type inch/pound torque wrenches and followed the torquing sequence when assembling things. The Sonnax instructions stressed this. Especially with the TECHM.

Using beam type inch/pound torque wrench to tighten bolts, following torquing sequence in figure above in the instructions.

 

[Walchit]

I want to get a spare tranny to rebuild, your pics are kinda scary for me though lol.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

OUTSTANDING write-up!! Thank you for sharing your project, with the excellent details at each step. Especially enlightening were your references to where documentation was light, and the gotcha's that you added to help on future projects by others.

This is yet another reason why this Forum ROCKS!! Knowledge is power!

 

[skpyle]

OUTSTANDING write-up!! Thank you for sharing your project, with the excellent details at each step. Especially enlightening were your references to where documentation was light, and the gotcha's that you added to help on future projects by others.

This is yet another reason why this Forum ROCKS!! Knowledge is power!

Yessir! You are quite welcome! This is my first GM SUV, but not my first gearhead forum experience. I am going to be a useful, contributing member.
My documentation will be useful to others, because that is how it has been for me over the years. You take when you can and you give back when you can.

 

[Geotrash]

Yessir! You are quite welcome! This is my first GM SUV, but not my first gearhead forum experience. I am going to be a useful, contributing member.
My documentation will be useful to others, because that is how it has been for me over the years. You take when you can and you give back when you can.

Honored to have to among us, and grateful for your mindset.

 

[skpyle]

Honored to have to among us, and grateful for your mindset.

Thank you!!!

 

[skpyle]

I did not do a full tear down disassembly of this valve body. I did not really see any sludge or crud, so I did not see the need to pull out all the valves. I only pulled out what was instructed in the Sonnax ZIP kit. As well, I did not use any brake cleaner. Which kills me, as I love brake cleaner. I have my own hole in the ozone layer above my work shop... Transmission experts I have dealt with warn that brake cleaner can damage seals and softer parts of a transmission and valve body. Anyway, everything was wiped down with lint free rags and reassembled accordingly. Only exception is the TECHM. Sonnax pressure switch rebuild instructions and video recommend using 30PSI air to blow out the pressure switches and solenoids. I did the pressure switches, but forgot the solenoids. Grrr.

Also, I only installed parts from the Sonnax ZIP kit in the valve body. There are some parts that go in the transmission front pump. I will deal with those in the future when I replace the torque converter.


First ZIP kit upgrade was installing the Sonnax O-ringed end plug kit. This is where I determined the instructions were lacking, and then searched for better. The ZIP kit instructions just said Installation Step 4: Replace Upper Valve Body OE End Plugs. It didn't say how. I found the instructions for the actual kit and learned you have to remove the retainer, remove the OE end plug, install the O-ringed plug, then reinstall the retainer. Easy once you know. I will say this, those little O-rings were a b*tch to get on. The plugs are tiny and light, and the O-rings are tight. Add in nitrile gloved hands, and it took awhile. A couple of plugs and O-rings went flying and had to be found. Also, the instructions say to use Sonnax secret sauce Slippery Stick O-LUBE. I didn't have any. I have always used petroleum jelly for transmission seals, and did so here as well.

End plugs and O-rings, some assembly required.

OE end plug and retainer.

Push in on the end plug and lever the retainer up. Grab the part that sticks up with pliers and pull it out. Beware that the end plug is spring loaded by the valve and spring behind it. Be ready to stop it from flying across the room.

End of the valve with the retainer and end plug removed.

O-ringed plug on the left and OE plug on the right. Instructions say to push the plug in just far enough to allow installation of the retainer. Gotcha to know: the O-ring keeps the plug in place. So the spring will not be able to push the plug out against the retainer. Meaning the retainer will fall out when you turn the valve body half over. Ask me how I know...

 

[skpyle]

I want to get a spare tranny to rebuild, your pics are kinda scary for me though lol.

That is not a bad idea. Take your time, take lots of notes and photos as you go. Do plenty of reasearch before you tear into the transmission. Learn as much as you can about disassembly and reassembly.
Factory and aftermarket rebuild manuals are a must!
It is scary, but doable.

 

[Geotrash]

That is not a bad idea. Take your time, take lots of notes and photos as you go. Do plenty of reasearch before you tear into the transmission. Learn as much as you can about disassembly and reassembly.
Factory and aftermarket rebuild manuals are a must!
It is scary, but doable.

I also recommend the proper tools for compressing the clutch packs to get their snap rings installed on reassembly. Much harder without them. When I rebuilt a ZF 5HP24 on my bench, I spent the better part of a day trying to poor boy a tool to do it with, but gave up and bought the rights tool for the job.

 

[skpyle]

I also recommend the proper tools for compressing the clutch packs to get their snap rings installed on reassembly. Much harder without them. When I rebuilt a ZF 5HP24 on my bench, I spent the better part of a day trying to poor boy a tool to do it with, but gave up and bought the rights tool for the job.

Very good point!