4 Piston Big Brake Upgrade from 2019-20

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Dantheman1540

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My swap is halfway through but I needed lunch so I'll post my current progress and testing.

I started with 3 brake tests from 55mph to dead stop on flat ground with one solid push and hold of the brake, no pumping or anything weird. I measure the distances by walking heal to toe in a size 12 Salomon X Crest hiking shoe which measures just under 13".

First attempt was 87 steps, 2nd was 80 and third was 77. Of course its impossible to know if I hit the brake at exactly the same point everytime but i did my best. I think the main variance was the difference in tire heat. The first attempt was after a normal drive around the block to heat everything up and the 2 attempts after were directly after one another so the tires and brakes were likely considerably hotter and more effective. I will do the same tests after a week of driving and breaking the new pads and rotors in.

My point of reference to apply the brakes was dead center of the 4 board gates entryway in the picture. I did also have a white line painted across the road but it was impossible to see from the drivers seat.
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Dantheman1540

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Brakes are fully installed and done, did a short break in lap and tried the test again. On just one try because I don't think they are fully bedded it stopped 6 steps short of the quickest stop with the old brakes, so that puts it at 71 steps which is almost 10% shorter distance. Give them a week and I'll do a round of three and see if it improves.

Along with this brake swap I did also do a massive 6 bottle flush of brake fluid because there was and still is some nasty stuff in the master. Plus I replaced the last of my rubber lines on the front passenger side with a SS line.

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Sam Harris

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Brakes are fully installed and done, did a short break in lap and tried the test again. On just one try because I don't think they are fully bedded it stopped 6 steps short of the quickest stop with the old brakes, so that puts it at 71 steps which is almost 10% shorter distance. Give them a week and I'll do a round of three and see if it improves.

Along with this brake swap I did also do a massive 6 bottle flush of brake fluid because there was and still is some nasty stuff in the master. Plus I replaced the last of my rubber lines on the front passenger side with a SS line.

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Very nice! Looks like you had the NNBS swap in previously as well..?
 

Dantheman1540

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Very nice! Looks like you had the NNBS swap in previously as well..?

I didn't think so but I've never touched the brakes on this truck. Knowing Axekick was a member here and PT.net I wouldn't be surprised, looks like a powerstop kit for sure, and they have a ton of life left! Easily 20-40k left on the pads IMO.

I'll measure a rotor when I go back to the shop. If its 13" it should be the NNBS.
 

Sam Harris

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I didn't think so but I've never touched the brakes on this truck. Knowing Axekick was a member here and PT.net I wouldn't be surprised, looks like a powerstop kit for sure, and they have a ton of life left! Easily 20-40k left on the pads IMO.

I'll measure a rotor when I go back to the shop. If its 13" it should be the NNBS.
I’ll bet they are. Those calipers look correct.
 

corvette744

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I agree, they looked super familiar to me plus the new ones dont look 1.5" bigger than the old ones

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Hmm now im getting interested look's like 13 inch rotors let us know for sure.I like the macGyver testing real world. question could you acivate your abs mashing the brake pedal with the old brakes and the new brakes-i realize you have not bedded in the new ones but im interested.:popcorn: P.S i have those same rims on my tahoe do they fit without spacers.I assume you shaved them down i didnt read all this thread but will if they fit.
 
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Dantheman1540

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Hmm now im getting interested look like 13 inch rotors let us know for sure.I like the macGyver testing real world. question could you acivate your abs mashing the brake pedal with the old brakes and the new brakes-i realize you have not bedded in the new ones but im interested.:popcorn: P.S i have those same rims on my tahoe do they fit without spacers.I assume you shaved them down i didnt read all this thread but will if they fit.

ABS activates with both setups. I did notice that it has to work considerably harder with the new brakes where before it seemed the brakes were underpowered for the 285 Nittos. I will do a good dirt road brake mash with my final testing to show the ABS activating.

So before the hump was ground down these wheels would not clear without a 1/4" spacer which is really nothing. With the hump gone and the caliper powder coated it clears but it's very very close so I added the spacers anyway. After a week I'll pull everything back apart to check how it's doing and recheck how close it is to get a measurement for you.

A bit about the spacer, I've run these in and off since I got the truck and haven't had any issues with them. Even the tire guys don't pitch a fit. So I wouldn't worry about running them but, I too prefer not to run them if I don't have to.
 

randeez

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My swap is halfway through but I needed lunch so I'll post my current progress and testing.

I started with 3 brake tests from 55mph to dead stop on flat ground with one solid push and hold of the brake, no pumping or anything weird. I measure the distances by walking heal to toe in a size 12 Salomon X Crest hiking shoe which measures just under 13".

First attempt was 87 steps, 2nd was 80 and third was 77. Of course its impossible to know if I hit the brake at exactly the same point everytime but i did my best. I think the main variance was the difference in tire heat. The first attempt was after a normal drive around the block to heat everything up and the 2 attempts after were directly after one another so the tires and brakes were likely considerably hotter and more effective. I will do the same tests after a week of driving and breaking the new pads and rotors in.

My point of reference to apply the brakes was dead center of the 4 board gates entryway in the picture. I did also have a white line painted across the road but it was impossible to see from the drivers seat.
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finally, some real science
 

Rocket Man

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Got the new brakes installed today. Took a few miles to break in the AC Delco pads on the coated Duralast rotors. But once they set, they worked great. I did several mixed speed stops and threw in three or four panic stops to break the pads in and the feel got better and better.

Added the Stoptech braided lines, too. Much firmer pedal and everything feels sturdy and smooth so far.
I used regular flat washers to space the calipers evenly over the rotors. The washers didn't have the exact thickness I wanted to make it 100% even, but I will correct that asap. I'll let everyone know the size.

Overall, this was super simple for me on my 2010 Z71 and I highly recommend the upgrade. Just get the right parts, don't use anything beyond a single washer per bolt for spacing the calipers, and bleed the brakes very very thoroughly. I can't emphasize the last one enough.

All I did for this to work on my specific Tahoe was replace the calipers, pads, brake hoses, four washers total for the calipers, and I went with replica Trail Boss wheels. Research the factory offset of those wheels and spoke clearance to determine what wheels you can use, but I wouldn't get into the business of using wheel spacers. Pet peeve of mine and I think those things are dangerous, but thats just me. Buy the right wheels or don't do this uograde until you can afford to buy the right wheels. Anyhow, good luck and give a shot. It's worth it.



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That’s great advice about the wheels but having to buy new ones to fit the brakes kinda defeats the savings over just buying Wildwoods to start with. They fit normal NBS wheels 20” and up. Plus they’re way bigger and prettier. So I guess my point is to try the caliper that’s being sent around and if your wheels fit then you’re good otherwise it’s not worth it IMO unless you’re already in the market for new wheels.
 

Dantheman1540

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That’s great advice about the wheels but having to buy new ones to fit the brakes kinda defeats the savings over just buying Wildwoods to start with. They fit normal NBS wheels 20” and up. Plus they’re way bigger and prettier. So I guess my point is to try the caliper that’s being sent around and if your wheels fit then you’re good otherwise it’s not worth it IMO unless you’re already in the market for new wheels.

I totally agree it's not worth buying different wheels for. Any chance we can bother you into doing some super science brake stomping with the brakes you have? Obviously wouldn't be apples to apples but if it stopped as quick as mine I'd be pretty impressed. Since you have 24s, denali interior and awd which I'm sure added 500-1,000 lbs plus you are running more of a general purpose highway tire if I remember correctly.

Just curious.
 

Dantheman1540

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So I feel we have the front upgrade nailed down, what about rears? What rear calipers do the 2020+ trucks have? Really not looking for crazy braking improvement as I know the rears do much less than the fronts. I'd like a similar looking caliper, where you don't see the ugly pad because of the lack of front face pistons.

I see to be having trouble finding much info on the rear brakes of the new trucks.
 

lucas287

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So before the hump was ground down these wheels would not clear without a 1/4" spacer which is really nothing.

Would you happen to know the width and offset of those wheels? Trying to determine if my high country 20s will clear. They're 9" wide with +27 mm offset.
 

Dantheman1540

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I have a 19 sub with OEM 6P in the front and a 1P in the rear.
At least my Tahoe had OEM 2P in the rear.
 

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